The Woodshop Shed

Just to say hi.

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


Not much to say, Just want to let my friends know I am still alive. This is my newest work. It has taken some time to get it done, but done is what it is. After June I will be putting in some time in the shop and will have more to share. As some of you know I have been fighting to keep my sight. I pretty much have lost the battle with my right eye but we have great hopes for the left one. I go under the knife on June 2nd I am asking you all to keep me in your prayers Doc says it can go eighter way, let's hope for the best. Thank you all in advance.

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Cedar post caps: how I made my own

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


I built a lattice fence to put around a hot tub, and wanted to put post caps on the 5 posts. I went shopping and the ones I saw did not look like they would look nice for very long. The corners were mitered, which I thought would eventually split apart. The pieces were stapled, and again just didn't look very well put together. And they were expensive…over $20 each. So I decided to build my own using solid wood…no mitered corners. And here's how I did it….I bought a rough sawn 2×8x8' (1.75×7.75×96 actual) cedar board at a big box store. I was lucky to find one with no knots. I cut it in half and planed one board to 1 and 5/8 and the other to 1 and 3/8. I then cut the thicker board into 6 pieces that were 6.75×6.75…these will be the bottoms. I cut the thinner boards into 6 pieces that were 7.25×7.25….these will be the tops. I only needed 5 pieces of each, but the extras ones were for practice. My fence posts are 4×4 treated posts with 3/4 thick cedar board cladding, which made the posts 5×5 (actual). If your posts are 6×6 (actual 5.5×5.5), you'll need to make your squares wider.
Next I took the tops and routered at 3/16th depth to create a square on the top. You could also use a table saw to cut all the way around, just leaving the square. The square is 4”x4”.
To create the slope I used my table saw set at an angle. I can't remember the angle, but I wanted to leave the edge at 9/16” high. I then used my router to create the hole that will sit over the post. I made it 7/8” deep and 5.25” x 5.25” square so it wouldn't be too tight on the 5×5 post.
Next I routered the top using a 3/8” round over, and I routered the bottom using a yonico #16135 molding bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Yonico-16135-Architectural-Molding-Router/dp/B00KZM2J6Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=10WZ6L033ZI24&keywords=yonico%2B16135&qid=1650853683&sprefix=yonico%2B16135%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-2&th=1I didn't use the whole profile of this molding bit, so you'll have to use care to set it up correctly.
I then screwed the bottom to the top (from underneath) using stainless steel screws.
I used Gorilla silicone sealant to attach the post caps to the post. I didn't use any mechanical fasteners, as I didn't think it was necessary.

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Regency Period box

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


The design of this box is based on the Egyptian sarcophagus form combined with the influence of Chinese curves, which came to increasing prominence during the 1820's Regency period.
The exaggerated concaved shaped sides and the use of heavy paneled dome top, which gives a weighty,
solid structure to the box, and the use of more exotic figured veneer reflects the style as it developed going into the 1820's. This design was often found on Regency style tea caddies and work boxes.
This box Is veneered in bird's eye maple with african blackwood trim and sits on turned wooden bun feet. The key escutcheon is mother of pearl and it has a hand polished lacquer finish.

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