The Woodshop Shed

Love layered wall decor

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Love wall decor it's a great valentine's day gift for your gf or wife .
Size 21*28 cm and can be resized to any size .
Pattern available here
https://www.etsy.com/Egyptiandecor/listing/1174514941#egwoodmade

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Mini Treasure Chests for Mini Treasures

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A project that only got worked at odd times. Tiny treasure chests. 5 1/2” X 4” x 4”. Oak for one Poplar for the others. Wall thickness 3/16”. Cherry for the hinges and clasp with a 1/16” brass rod for the hinge pin. Bit of old stain to make them look appropriate as “treasure chests” and 2 coasts of poly. Have some small 1 padlocks to add.
These will be given to the kids in the neighborhood. Finger joints cut on router table using an Incra jig fence.

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Maple coffee table

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This is a coffee table made from a maple tree that had to be removed from my parents property. The wood was air dried in my shop for four years. I did have to work with a few splits but the table is sturdy and makes a nice addition to the family room.

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Cork board

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


From over 250 wine corks, 2 pieces per cork, cut w/ mini sled on bandsaw, hot glued to backing.
Frame is poplar moulding from the lumberyard dumpster (have several hundred feet). Cork panel rabbeted to fit the rabbeted moulding. Installed on door of shop.

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Fine Sanding Myths

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Why are you working harder than you need to? Sanding is boring. It's boring to watch, it's boring to do, and I find it boring to write about. But myths are fun to write about, and there are some …Source

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Ambrosia Maple Box

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I was going tackle another barn wood box, but my creativity center said, “Nope, two in a row is enough.”So, instead, I decided to make a box from the Ambrosia Maple that I picked up a few days ago. The board had a nice pattern, so I cut the sides consecutively, so when I glued them together, the pattern continued all the way around the box.I knew what piece I was going to use for the lid, but I didn't know I would get inspired to make an “artsy fartsy” handle. I went to the local business where I'd found the twisted wood (used as handles on my barn wood boxes) and asked them if I could look at the remaining tree for something I might use for a box handle. It got me a puzzled look, but they said, “Sure.”I'm pretty pleased with how the handle turned out.The entire box is finished in spray-on, water-based poly (a product that is really growing on me!)Instead of putting in a dowel frame to hold the lid, I decided instead to cut and then stain little square dowel columns in each corner that the lid rests on. They kinda blend in, but if you look in the interior corners, you can see them.Boxes are kinda growing on me, though mine will probably always have a rustic feel.

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Custom Walnut grip for 45 colt SA

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This is an Uberti-made single action in 45 (long) colt. It's imported by Taylors & Company. They are very nice pistols for the price, although as you can see from the last photo, the original checkered grip that it comes with has the Taylors logo carved into it. It's a nice grip, but I thought that it was a bit tacky of the importer to do that, to me it really takes away from the authentic old west look. Also, it bears a striking resemblance to Tesla's logo! I had a small scrap piece of walnut that was just big enough and had some nice figure. I used some aftermarket grips as a template and then shaped away little by little. There are two types of grips for these guns the “one piece” and “two piece” The two-piece grips use a screw and special brass grommets to keep the two sides together. I went with the one-piece type, which is actually two pieces that have a small wedge-shaped piece glued in between them that is just thick enough to press against the back strap. I actually made that linking piece too thin and had to glue pieces of walnut veneer to it in order to get the right fit. It's not perfect (a bit too bulky), but it turned out well enough for me to be satisfied. I put two coats of GF Arm-r-Seal then a few coats of spar urethane. I might actually sand it down again to thin it out and put a more natural finish on it. I also eventually like to make my own walnut (or perhaps cherry) gun stock for my 1873 Winchester (clone) lever-action rifle. Anyone else dabble in woodworking with gun stocks/pistol grips?

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Barn Wood/Ambrosia Maple Box #2

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After being quite pleased with my first box, I scoured the rafters of the garage and found several bigger boards of barn wood.I cut a piece of it about 3.25” inches wide. From that, I miter cut the 5.5” by 8.5” frame of the box. When I glued it together, I really liked the way the barn wood looked on the top edge. So… I decided instead of a lid that would sit on top, I would insert the bottom and lid flush with the edges of the box.I picked up some square poplar dowels and cut the interior frame that the lid would sit atop. I was going to stain the poplar dowels, but then decided I liked the look of the contrast of the light wood against the dark.While I was at Lowes, I found another Ambrosia Maple board that was pretty robust in interesting grain. I used it to cut out the bottom and lid for this box.I used my twisted wood to cut a handle.The box itself is finished in a couple of coats of spray-on, water-based poly. The lid is finished in a gloss wipe-on poly.I have several large pieces of the barn wood left, so I anticipate a few more boxes from it.

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Line and Berry Inlay

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Make this traditional design with a router and plug cutters. Line and berry inlay is an old American tradition. There are many variations of the design, but all consist of a series of circular arcs made with thin wood, called …Source

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Wooden Coaxial Dual Propeller Helicopter Toy

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I decided to develop the helicopter I made for my son to play, and add some engineering and make it with a coaxial propeller. After all, this turned out.

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Disposable Drill Press Table

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Instead of making disposable inserts for my drill press table, I found that it's faster and cheaper to make disposable fence/table assemblies. I can use the entire surface of my disposable tables, so I get more life from them. First, …Source

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GARDEN HANDRAIL

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July 28, 2022To resolve a safety concern a handrail for 3 steps in our backyard garden was finally finished and installed.It started with two 6 X 6 and a 2 X 6 treated wood that were recovered from a neighbor who just replaced his deck.The tops of each 6 X 6 post was cut 20 degrees on four sides. To join each post the 2 X 6 was set in a dado in the top of the each post. Since the top post sat on the patio slab it was anchored on the concrete with four angle brackets. The bottom of the post sat on the heads of the Tapcon screws that attached the angle brackets to the concrete. This will keep the bottom of the post dry.Since this post sat on the ground a piece of 3/4 inch plastic (the blue in bottom photo) was attached to the bottom of the post as a rot deterrent before it was installed.Placing the bottom post was interesting since it would be placed on the end of a cinderblock wall that was on both sides of the steps. I'm hoping that the method that I used here is going to work. I decided to use a liberal amount of liquid nails between the post and the cinderblock. I also use mechanical fasteners to attach the post to the cinterblock. On one side of the post I used modified straps and Tapcon screws.The other side of the post was anchored with angle brackets and Tapcon screws into the cinderblock.The handrail was made with a length of 1-1/2 inch EMT.To attach the handrail brackets to the handrail lengths of hardwood were turned to fit inside the EMT into which 2 screws were driven to attach the handrail bracket to the EMT. To finish the ends of the EMT end caps (green) were turned out of 3/4 inch plastic and installed with clear silicone caulk to keep water out.Plastic contoured pads (yellow) were also made to fit between the EMT and the handrail supports to stabilize the connection.The project was considered finished with the installation of the handmade copper caps secured with 2 bronze screws.View of handrail from top . and view from the bottom.All wood parts were primed and finished with 2 coats of high gloss latex. The copper post caps were sprayed with lacquer.Now SWMBO is happy and likes the handrail.Thanks for looking. Comments and questions appreciated and welcomed.

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Detail Rabbet Plane

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Tool: Detail Rabbet Plane Shop Now   Manufacturer: Veritas MSRP: $72.50 Years ago, I bought my first rabbet plane, a Clifton 410, to get me out of a jam. My bread and butter work was repairing antiques, and I needed …Source

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Lake Mohawk

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30 plus years ago we built a home (had it built) in the gated community named Lake Mohawk. It's a 550 acre lake with at the time about 1600 homes, some year round and some just summer homes for the rich and famous. Since we were neither of the aforementioned we decided to sell and move back to town after a 5 or 6 year stay. We bought a vacant lot so we could have access to the lake for fishing and did so for many years.
Back to now – Over a year ago I had our local graphics shop enlarge a map of Lake Mohawk for the express purpose of doing just what you see. I took the map and traced it on a piece of hard board and then traced that on rough cut Beetle Kill Pine 1×6's after I planed it to a 'somewhat' smooth finish. The definition of smooth in this case is pick it up without fear of splinters and still a bit rustic. Unless you have worked with bkp it's hard to describe the rough cut texture, it's really rough and splintery because it's so dry (I'm guessing) Several years ago I bought a skid load of it from a saw mill in Colorado and had it freighted to me.
So, the walnut creek I just finished inspired me to jump into the Lake Mohawk table and the BKP was my lumber choice – a good choice (I think).
The table is about 34” long x 13” wide – a couple 1×6's with a piece in the center to make the 13”. The finished thickness is nearly 7/8”
I cut the outline with my DeWalt 20v hand held cordless and 1/4” bit to 1/4” deep. Then I used my DeWalt corded smooth start with a 1/2” upcut spiral Whiteside bit to take out the rest of the 'lake'
I made to pours of 8oz. each using Total Boat 2 part tinted with powder mica deep ocean blue with some help of silver metalic for a little glitter. The 16 oz pour left the lake almost a 1/16” below the top of the table leaving a ridge all the way around the lake, just like most all of the lakes you might see because the water isn't always dead level with the banks. Almost forgot, I made the mistake of showing my work in progress to a Mohawk resident and he said how soon and how much ? He wanted hairpin legs and that's probably what all of them will get. I've already started a second table and probably will make a couple more.So anyway, look at the table if you want but gheeezow look at those flowersThanks for looking and Have a GREAT day !

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Protecting Tools from Kids

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Sometimes a little talking-to (and video surveillance) is all it takes. I have noticed three things about tools and kids. Kids can find tools even if it requires tunneling under the garage wall. Kids can claim complete innocence when asked …Source

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Thank you Gift

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A friend from church did us a very generous favor and I wanted to do something to show our appreciation. I made this at the same time as the memorial box in my project feed, so many of the setups were the same. For this one I made a solid top that hinged. Pretty basic construction in walnut with maple splines.One thing I did learn from these two projects – if your box looks a little too “square” and boring, a slight treatment on the bottom edges with a cove bit to suggest feet really works. It is subtle, but adds a little lift and interest to the piece.For the inside bottom, a piece of black craft felt from Walmart (39) is easy to cut and with a little 3M adhesive spray makes a perfect liner.

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Rosewood box

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Box in rosewood burl veneer, crotch mahogany, and maple.
The diamond inlay on front is stainless steel on maple.

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Use Glass to Set Jointer Knives

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


A piece of thick plate glass is dead flat and it's easy to use to align standard jointer knives that have gib screws. A couple of rare-earth magnets secured to the glass with double-sided tape keep it flat on the …Source

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Barn Wood/Ambrosia Maple Box

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I've had some barn wood sitting in the garage for a long time now. I always intended to do something with it, and today ended up being the day. I had purchased some particularly worm-damaged Ambrosia Maple from Lowes, and this box ended up being perfect for it.I took the miter saw to the barn wood and then spent some additional time with a hand-held floor sander getting the wall frame of the box as level as I could.I cut the top and bottom for the box from the Ambrosia Maple. The edges are stained in a “weathered-grey” stain.Once the glue holding the barn wood together was dry, I sprayed on two light coats of water-based, satin poly. I was pretty pleased with how that turned out.The Ambrosia Maple is finished with a few coats of wipe-on gloss poly.Earlier this spring, as I was walking through town, I noticed an insurance company had cut a bunch of growth from around its building. Not sure what kind of wood it was that corkscrews around itself, but I grabbed a branch of it for later use. As it turns out, a five-inch section of it was perfect to use as a handle for this box. I'm really happy with how that looks!Overall, I'm pretty pleased with this 5.5” by 8.5” box.

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Turn a Classic Wooden Bat

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Learn how to turn a classic wooden baseball bat. This timeless project is a great opportunity to practice your turning skills.Source

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A couple of intarsia ornaments

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Just because in didn't have enough frustration in my life, i decided to try intarsia. I did a couple of Kathy Wise patterns. The bell has maple, sepele and walnut. The stocking has maple, sepele,and poplar.

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Wine serving table for a friend

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I made this for a friend as a Christmas present

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Choosing the Correct Pocket Screws for Your Project

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Pocket screws are a wonderful thing. They've been used to build furniture by everyone from Shakers to Makers. However, using the proper pocket screws in your project is the difference between having a project that's locked together tightly or one …Source

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Granddaughters and Geometry

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I did a bunch of re-sawing for future projects from 8/4 and 12/4 cutoffs. My little Craftsman bandsaw really struggles to get through. If it was not for having an excellent blade and a ton of patience, it never would finish.Walnut, Redheart, Maple, Red Oak, Mahogany, Sycamore, Eucalyptus, Purpleheart, Orange Osage, Ash, Cherry, Walnut Crotch, White Oak, Monkeywood, Figured Cherry, Zebrawood and Curly Ash.All gloss lacquered.Learned something though – when it's 98 degrees outside, glue, lacquer and me dry out really quickly.

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One for the DOG!

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I've been trying to get back in the shop more. So I made a ball dispenser for my dogs collection of balls. It works pretty good but he was upset that I got the last “S” glued on a little crooked… My daughter sen me six LeCrosse balls from the collection they have. Her dog finds them in the field she takes him to to play ball..

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Turned bottle stoppers

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Various turned bottle stoppers. I haven't turned any about 5 years but I'm working through my shelves in the shop looking for projects that were never completed to finish. I need to get some space cleared and build an inventory for the fall craft fairs. I had the blanks drilled and a metal insert glued in with epoxy. It makes it alot easier to attach on my threaded chuck and I don't need to worry about stripping the threads.The mushroom looking one is cut off scraps of what I think is marblewood, walnut, and spalted tamarind that needed some large worm tracks filled with black CA glue.The designs are random and what I feel like practicing and feels good in my hand.

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Two Chippendale Style Side Chairs

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These two Chippendale style side chairs go on both ends of a Hallway Table that I made. I will post that table next.
Both chairs are made out of American Black Walnut and stain and clear coated. The chippendale style was perfect fit to go with my table. The cabriole legs are hand carved with grapes and leafs, and side scrolls. The backs of the chairs I designed eight scrolls in each chair and a shell to match the table. Thank you for looking, and happy woodworking!

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Hallway Table

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Here is the finished pictures of a hallway table. They're are two side chairs, one chair sets on both sides fo the table. The penthouse that they go to is in New York City on the 72 floor. Thats why the table comes apart in the center its a loose joint, to fit on the elevator. It's been a long journey, one and half years part time from designing to completion. Thank you for looking. And Happy Woodworking

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Line and Berry Artwork

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Typically, I do not see my woodworking projects as art. I follow plans and end up with a completed project (furniture, tea box, etc.). I don't know what else to call this project other than art or a wall hanging. In the magazine (Wood #264, Nov 2019) it was to be a tea tray. I had no use for one but I loved the line and berry design so I opted to execute it as a piece of art. The line and berry design is inlaid into walnut. The lines or stringing is holly, perhaps the whitest wood species. The berries are from cherry, maple and bubinga. To complement these colors, I made the frame from cherry with an inlaid strip of sapele. I routed a bead along the outside edge. The artwork itself is finished with four coats of Deft aerosol lacquer. Most lacquers preserve the whiteness of holly. For the frame, I did two coats of spray shellac followed by two coats of the aerosol lacquer. Frame and all it measures 18 inches tall by 13 inches wide.

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Yet another night stand X 2

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We recently moved so I have plenty of new opportunities for woodworking. We bought an old headboard for the bedroom and I decided to build a pair of night stands that would hopefully maintain it's rosewood and dark wood feel. I spent a couple of months noodling with my graphics software trying to come up with something that I felt like building and that my wife would OK and this is the result.I still like working with a mix of materials so this design has a glass top, a steel cantilevered support backbone, stainless pipe, nickle trim, and solid and plywood walnut. Fusion 360 was used to model the design and the mind map software Freeplane was used to think through all of the design, purchasing, build and assembly details. I have not seen Freeplane mentioned much but I use it all the time (it's free and no affiliation). These two programs allowed me to go through 12 revisions to my design before I picked up my first tool and 4 in the middle of the build. I was able to pre-think and plan what I was doing and this ensured that none of the screws interfered and I did not “paint myself into any corners”.I ordered the glass tops first since their size could not be tweaked during the build and so everything else needed to fit around them. I was lucky to have in my stockpile of stuff “that I would use someday”, some rosewood veneered MDF boards that I had salvaged from a roadside discard. They had been waiting for 12 or so years for a worthy project. Preserving this veneer while sawing things to size, sanding, edge banding and glueing boards was a significant challenge during both the design and build phase. I used full extension soft close drawer slides. The pipes were ordered precut, but the tolerances were loose and I had to grind them a little to keep everything level. Polishing the pipes was a pain but jigging them up on my lathe helped. There is a channel in the back two pipes for cord management. There are steel plates at both ends of the pipes with 3/8 threaded rods providing cantilever support. I was able to cut the plates to shape using a “thick metal” blade on a jig saw. As usual I over engineered the design/materials, the total weight for each stand is around 80 lbs. I used slippery levelers so they are moveable for making the bed. It took about 10 retired hobby weeks to complete both once I started building.Nor everything is perfect. The nickle accent strip is a little ripply because .2mm was too thin, and as usual I hurried the finishing, so some spots are not up to snuff. You have to look close to observe these flaws so overall I am happy with the final results.

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Large Wild Cherry Gall Bowl

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Well, the old personal life has been throwing some wild curve balls as of late and, in my case, that kinda saps the desire to create much of anything.But, we must persist…Back in May I harvested a wild cherry gall just shy of being the size of a basketball. My intention all along had been to turn it into a large bowl, which is what you see in the pics.Went my normal route… roughed out the bowl with paddle bits on the drill and then ground it out with my grinder. I didn't go super deep because as one gets closer to the pith, you start to lose the interesting grain.I stopped grinding right about when I saw that this bowl would have a unique interior.I ground the outside until interesting grain started to emerge. I worked the outside with my palm sander with three pieces of 40 grit sand paper. Then I continued, using 80, 120, 180, and finally 240.It's finished with five coats of wipe-on poly (I may add a coat or two more tomorrow).Sorry for the necessary hiatus. I'm sure I missed some spectacular pieces from you all.

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Head start for Christmas Boxes

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5 boxes for the girls Christmas. Wife, Daughter, DIL, Granddaughter, Grandson's girl friend.3 are Walnut, one is Mahogany and one Purpleheart. The drawers have 3 layers of steam bent cherry for the backs and a poplar front. Cork lining. Drawers are painted with 2 coats of yellow milk paint, then 2 coats of green. Sanded and burnished to give the used and abused look. 3 Coats of Osmo poly-x oil on top of all that to seal the milk paint. Osmo on the 18 staves and 3 support columns, top and bottom. Splines are dyed basswood.Plans were from the Woodcraft Magazine article. Some changes in the drawer construction and splines.Top ornament was turned on my lathe. Poplar.Used a mini table saw for a lot of the small pieces, really worked great.Time consuming. Next year the girls get a simpler box. Much simpler. These have 90 pieces.

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Fighting Rust with Brass and Bronze

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The summer is here in earnest, and with it came the rising humidity. Humidity and ferrous-based metals such as carbon steel and cast iron don't get along that well, and the result of the turbulent relationship between the two is …Source

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Podlets continue to sprout

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Standing around 5 inches tall these podlets were turned by Natural Selection Studio's Greg Gallegos and
a couple of orphans left at my Retreat
Burned and painted by me.C and C welcome

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Maple and Wenge Hollow Vase

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This base of this hollow vase is an oval 5 x 2. The top of the vase is an oval 3.5 x 2. The wall thickness is 3/16. Constructed of maple and Wenge.
Designed using Rhino7 and Aspire software and cut on a CNC machine. It took about four hours to design the vase, a few hours to prepare the wood blanks and 5 hours to cut the vase on the CNC. I divided the model into front and back sections and cut the parts separately, then glued the parts together and then sanded.
Roger

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Medicine Cabinet

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A slick technique makes the divided-light door a snap. In 2008, I built a contemporary maple chimney cupboard to hold towels in my bathroom. Eight years on, I decided it was time for a matching medicine cabinet - in …Source

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Clock from scraps

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Built this clock with some scraps. Most of us wood workers can build a ton of projects with pieces we have laying around, this was a fun little build. I got the clock face from Rockler. I clear coated it with minwax spray semi gloss poly.

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Walnut "creek" Table

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Not a River Table but more of a creek and a lake table. The reason for this is my neighbor wanted a house warming gift for her son and didn't know what she wanted. I have a storage building that I rent to house my excess or stash as some would call it and I invited her to look thru it and find something.
Picture #1 shows what she decided on. It's a walnut plank 55” long x 11 + ” wide and almost 2” thick with a serious void in half of it. The only thing she insisted on was that it did not have square flat ends so I had to fix that. I put a curve on one end and a bevel curve on the other end.
I then got cordless drill with a HSS burr and made a river from one end into the 'lake'. As it approached the lake I split it and made what to some would resemble the goat island at Niagra Falls. In doing that I decided to attempt a falls into the lake below with some foamy water and an elevated island. The 3D effect if most visual in real time, I couldn't get the camera to pick it up ( pic #4) but she sees it and is happy.
I made the falls first with polyester resin because it's more of a solid than the 2 part TB and I made a dam at the other end to stop the 2 pt resin. Then I poured 2 part Total Boat resin tinted blue into the lake and just a trickle in the creek. The next day I poured clear resin in all of the cavities being careful to not over flow knowing I was going to plane the plank to meet the resin.
The next day I planed the top and bottom, gave both a 180grit sanding and one coat of sanding sealer on the walnut staying away from the resin. I gave the edges sanding sealer after a “light” burshing with a stiff bristle brush and then 3 heavy coats of poly.
The bottom got 2 coats of poly and the top was lucky and got 4 coats. After a day of drying I started sanding with the the top and bottom getting a light 400 grit. Then I started wet sanding with 3000, 4000, 5000, 7000, 8000 and finally 10000 grit. ( kudos to Dawn liquid dish washing soap)This was a fun project and got me in the mood to do one I've been putting off for nearly a year so stay tuned my treal lake project starts tomorrow.Thanks for looking and comments & questions are welcome.
Have a GREAT DAY !

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Grandson's Birthday present

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I friend and I got together and made five of these for our grandson's. I found the design for the truck in a Wood Magazine 1990 (it pays to keep old magazine's) designed by Ed Dohm. My friend with the laser came to the rescue once again. Grandson's loved them, however I don't think they will see any dirt!

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Hand Crank

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This is a hand crank for my next project. It is made from walnut and a strip of maple in the handle. It has a 1” hex socket cut in it for the nut it will drive. The handle has a 7 1/2” throw from center of the handle to center of the socket.I added a few shots of making the hex socket. I faced off all the radius on the nut in the lathe so it had a sharp edge all around. Then I bored a 1” hole 1 1/2' deep and a 3/4” hole for the rest 1/2”. I used a 3/4-10 bolt to align the nut to the hole and broached in the hex in the vise. A little work with a chisel to give it some clearance and it works real good. I used a piece of pipe a little longer than the inside of the handle and 3/8” cap screw to hold it together. There is a 44 mag cartridge ( compliments of LJ Hillbillyshooter) in a piece of black nylon to cover the 3/4” holeIt is finished with Danish oil and buffed and waxed.Cheers, Jim

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Offset Biscuit Joints

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


I use biscuit joints in lots of small projects, particularly for joining rails to legs. I usually reference from the bottom of the plate joiner rather than use its fence. When I want to make an offset joint, I cut …Source

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It Wasn't Always Like This

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


When a family friend recently visited my new cabinet shop, he commented, Your dad and grandpa would've loved this place. It wasn't always like this! He meant that although both men were pro woodworkers at various times in their lives, …Source

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My finished Marble Run Chest

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


A few pictures of my completed Marble Chest with a few modifications. All moving contraptions work as planned, and build time took months of very complicated problem-solving. A very rewarding project to take on. My table saw, belt sander, band saw were built by me 50 years ago with metal alum parts from a kit using plywood, tempered Masonite and oak. These tools still work OK, but require much more adjusting, because they don't adjust like the expensive metal ones. I did buy a small scroll saw for the detailed work. I plan to add clear plexiglass from a photo frame to each side of the springboard to make it more consistent having the marble hit the bell each time. Furthermore, I am trying to make the escarpment feed the marbles slower, so you can see all the contraptions better one at a time.

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Efficient Shop Wiring

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


A single cable provides 120-volt and 240V service. Every article I've seen describing the wiring of a shop for both 120 volts and 240V uses separate cables for each voltage, which is a significant waste of time, effort and …Source

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End Table of Quartet Sawn White Oak

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I just finished my end table project and I'm ready for peer review.
This is the 2nd time I've made this table. Things get better with practice and then some things get worse. I think it depends more on the day and your mood than your skill.
It was, however, the first time I've sprayed polyurethane. I loved it! I won't dread that step as much as I used to anymore.

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Twin small drawer stacks cherry

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Solid cherry twin drawer stacks
Ball bearing runners
Gold antique finish with black flecking
Lacquer top coat

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Stacking Business Card Holders

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This was a little experiment that turned out really nice. I wanted two business card holders stacked together for travel and sturdy enough to get tossed around in our product bag. Made of Cedar with Walnut sides. A couple of special features, I made the angle less than 90 (as you can see in the side view with cards) so the front card would be slightly raised making it easier to pick up just one card. (Works great!!!) Also, the top pieces above the sides had to be slightly tapered so they would fit together (last picture). Finished with wipe-on Poly.

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Upgrade Your Finishing

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Some of the most common questions we get are about finishing. How do I get a better finish on my project? What's the easiest finish to apply? What's the most durable finish? Unfortunately, finishing almost always ends up being an …Source

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A Dovetail Reference Joint

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Like many woodworkers, I own a basic half-blind dovetail jig, which I use only occasionally for making utility drawers. During the interim, I tend to forget the setup procedures and spacing required to create those elusive perfect dovetails. To help …Source

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Walnut Hutch

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


My first time doing a large project in walnut. It turned out beautiful and walnut is so easy to work. I used Danish Oil as the finish and, as expected, it shows off the grain so well. The back was a maple 1/4” plywood from a big box store. To mimic the walnut finish, I used Verathane's Dark Walnut oil stain as directed. Then I put on a quick coat of Verathane's Kona oil stain by pouring it on, spreading it out with a paint spreader, and quickly wiping it off. I made my own wood drawer slides and put slick tape on them. The shelves are adjustable.

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chess/checker Table

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This chess/checker table was custom designed in a style based on a Shaker twin drawer sewing table affording each participant access to each drawer on either side of the table. Each drawer is made with classic through dovetail joints that incorporates a divider to keep both chess pieces and checker pieces separated. There are four legs at the bottom of the table for stability. Each leg is affixed to the table column with classic dovetail joints with an added copper spider for additional strength. The dominant structure of the table is made of cherry wood. The chess/checker board is of Black Walnut and Maple squares that are joined with hardwood splines and made to float within the cherry border to prevent warpage. Most wood pieces came from trees that grew in the Aiken S.C. Area.Measures used in the building of this table are based on established techniques that have withstood the tests of time and should serve the owners for many years.

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Glider Loveseat set

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Here is the completed redwood patio set. Made with 2 X 12's and finished with Penofin oil. A Glider 2 Adirondack chair, 2 end tables, 2 footstools, and a coffee table.

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stop blocks for router table

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Another project from this weekend. A couple of stop blocks for my router table. One is a flip stop. The flip stop is made of cherry with turned lacewood knobs, the other is white oak, maybe a piece of red oak, and turned walnut knobs.

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mahogany boxes

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Here's a couple more boxes from last weekend. Both are mahogany, one has a white oak lid, the other is walnut. Both have dovetail joints.

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TWO SCROLL SAW BOWLS

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


These Bowls were made from an Old Pine Shelf that I had removed.
I don't know the previous history of the wood, there were some blotches that became visible only after the wood was cut. I tried to sand them out. But no success. It remains a Mystery.The Bowls were made with a Scroll Saw cut on a 35 Deg Angel.The Oval Bowl is 7 1/2 inches Long. 5 3/4 inches Wide. 2 inches Deep.The Heart Shaped Bowl is 5 3/4 Long. 6 1/2 inches Wide. 3 1/4 inches Deep.The Finish is Three Coats of Oil Based Poly lightly rubbed between the first 2 coats with 0000 Steel Wool.No matter what I did the Blotches remained.Kind regards…...Cliff

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Kevin

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


A friend from FL. asked if I could make a Kevin for her husband Kevin. Here is the result. The body is made of yellowheart, the hair is paintbrush briistles., the glasses are purpleheart. It is about 9” tall.

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Poppy Season is still here

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Yes Poppy season is still here. Again orphans left in the shop after my Retreat. Pyro work, along with the cup cutters to make the round seeds in the base. Stand about 5 inches tall using craft paint.Hope you are enjoying Poppy season as I have more to comeC and C always welcome

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Another cLock

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Oak with a taste of scrap Rosewood.
Inside dimensions are 9.25×3.5×5.75” with a bottom lining of 1/2” Kaizen foam
Lacquer finish. I usually spray 10 coats with a 320 grit sanding in between and a final sanding of 500 grit..
I hope to have 4 or 5 more completed for the upcoming show

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Make Your Own Blast Gates

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


They're cheap! All you need is some PVC and plastic laminate. A central dust collection system is a big improvement to any shop, but the cost can really add up. With commercial gates going from $4 to over $50 each, …Source

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1:6 scale model of the Wegner Dolphin chair

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I've had my eye on the Wegner JH510 'Dolphin' chair for a while. I worked out some vectors for the pieces a while back, but paused after that. I've been getting the itch to build another chair, but unfortunately, I can't allocate time to work on one right now. But a couple days to knock out a scale model of the chair? That I can do. This will help me to verify proportions and get a jump-start on how to go about building the full-sized version.The original is a folding chair, but to simplify the model build, there are no moving parts – everything is tacked together with CA glue. The frame is made from ayous – wood I frequently use for table tennis paddles. It's fairly lightweight and easy to sand. Here are a few photos of the build process.Blanks for the parts that will be cut out on the cnc.
I cut out some extras where I could squeeze them in, just in case.
The arm pieces were a bit too thick, so I kept sanding them down until they were closer to target. I'll be sure to adjust the design to account for this. Score 1 for scale modeling.Today, I moved the project outside. Sanding isn't so bad if you're not cooped-up indoors.
I made this little triangle to exactly set the legs in correct position.
A dot of CA glue where the parts meet holds everything together. After both sides assemblies were done, I glued-in the various stretchers. This was a bit stressful trying to hold things together while fiddling with CA glue and accelerant, and I forgot to take an more photos until it was all together.
I still need to work out if I'll add some kind of seat and back covering. I might just leave it as a skeleton for now. It was a fun little project, and I can another chair to my portfolio (scale model, whispered sotto voce).

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End grain cutting board with maple inlays

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This is my first attempt of making an end grain cutting board made of walnut with maple inlays. It is mostly made on my homebuilt CNC. The inlays are made from solid maple blocks, because I did not want any visible seams in the inlays. Therefore I had to split the pattern into smaller segments and glue them in two runs. The slope on the side of the inlays made the walnut/maple seams practically invisible.There are a few more pictures at my blogspot if you are interested:
https://maskinkonst.blogspot.com/

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Bottle stopper from found wood

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Bottle stopper from found wood. Finished with CA glue.

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Flattening a Plane Sole, Part 5 - The Tools I Use to Measure Flatness

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


To conclude this series of entries about lapping/flattening the soles of metal planes (read them here #1, #2, #3, #4), I wish to share some information about the precision tools I use. The difference between Straight …Source

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Rare Earth Hinges

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Rare earth magnets make really slick hinges for small boxes. The lid on this ring box pivots on two hinges made from 10mm magnetsnothing more. Each hinge is composed of two magnets: one is glued to the box's side; the …Source

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9 Useful Finishing Tips

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Here are some finishing tips I hope you find of value. They are arranged in roughly the order of the typical finishing steps. Sand Oil Finishes Wet It's not at all necessary to sand wood to very fine grits …Source

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Scaffold pattern end grain board with African Blackwood

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I had an opportunity to work with the rarest and most expensive hardwood in this scaffold pattern end grain cutting board commission build. Woods used are African blackwood, bloodwood and maple. Blackwood sells for about $160 a BF. Talk about being nervous cutting the triangles needed for this build. The board measures 14 1/2 X 19 X 1 1/2.

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Carpenter's bench

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


In the style of Japanese carpenter's bench. Mahogany, 52”, 18 1/2” high. Top is 8”, 1 1/2”. Pic from Japanese woodworking tool museum for reference. Didn't get pictures in the making, it's still getting the umpteenth coat of linseed oil.

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I just found it along the road

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


A few weeks ago I headed into town. On the way there I seen some sort of shelf setting along the road at the end of a house driveway along with a few other items that looked like they were trash. I went to town and came back and everything was still there but I could see the shelf had crown molding on it. I actually passed it up again and ended up turning around to go back and get it a mile later. Even when putting it in my truck I was having my doubts and thinking I may have a problem thinking I always needed to salvage stuff all the time, but I really liked the crown molding. I took it home and set it in the garage while figuring out what I should do with it. I considered cutting the top off to make a hanging shelf. Then I decided maybe cut the bottoms off and make doors and have a hanging shelf but I didn't really have any place for one. One evening I was setting in my living room and looked over at my little bookshelf (one of those little cubicle type things we'd got years ago) and had the light bulb turning on over my head moment…. I'd make a bookshelf. Over the course of a few days I built it several different ways in my head but in the end this is what I imagined. All the lumber used was salvaged from a garage I tore down this spring. I thought the rough cut was cedar but I had to plane down a couple of the center boards for the top because they were cupped and found out it was poplar. And the cleaned up stuff absolutely did not match the other rough cut so I took a little propane torch and burnt it to darken it up. The shelves were also salvaged 1×12s, all of which had been used as exterior siding. I did have to buy paint and poly, I used the screws and a few nails that I had on hand. I'm very happy with it. I probably drove my wife crazy the last couple days commenting on how good I think it looks. It's definitely got some warts to it. The person previously used a heavily textured paint that I just painted over. All the wood has nail holes and dents in it, one of the top boards even has a piece of screw that was broken off just under the surface that I couldn't get out. All in all I couldn't be happier with it. I get a odd satisfaction from saving something from the scrap pile as well.

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Wedding gift set

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This is one little set that my wife and I made for one wedding as gift.
Box is from MDF (decorated with acrylic paints) , goblets and candle holder are made from walnut.

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Wooden Carousel Toy - Automata Funfair Carousel Toy

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I wanted to make a funfair wooden carousel toy. This carousel toy also had to fit my engineering concept. Because I want to add some engineering to all the projects I do.
This wooden carousel consists of two wooden gears, moving by up and down four wooden carousel horses and their holdings.

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Saw horses

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Fir, no finish, but will probably get some linseed oil. Various salvaged framing lumber, but two of the feet were stickers that I filled in the band grooves. Mortises cut on recently acquired machine. 20” high, beams are 30” long.

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Woodworking Prime Day Deals 2022

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


[Updated 2:30 CST) Amazon Prime Day is here, and we're rounding up the best deals for woodworkers! Keep checking in throughout the next two days as we update the list! Lightning Deals: Jorgensen 2-pack Medium Duty Steel Bar Clamp Set…Source

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Launder Your Sanding Belts

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


When I'm sanding pitchy wood or removing old finish, my sandpaper gets really gummed up and I can't get it clean with the rubber eraser-type cleaner. I used to throw it away and buy more. Now, I pour some resin …Source

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Segmented French Rolling Pin and Pen/Blanks

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


So I am participating in a couple of swaps and one is for anything turned and the other was for a pen with a segmented blank you made. I was going to make the rolling pin with a Celtic Knot but it seems you see that often so figured I'd make a big segmented blank like the pen blanks for the rolling pin.

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Funky cutting boards in cherry

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


These are somewhat nontraditional but perfectly good cutting boards. They should work fine.

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Moving Truck

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


After completing the trucks for my four granddaughters, my son wondered where his truck was. So, I decided to construct a moving truck with three rear axles. The cab and engine sections are modelled after the T&J Tow Truck which I made for my daughter. The remainder is my own design.The truck is constructed with poplar and pine and finished with Watco Tung Oil. I formed the rear doors by building a frame with 3/4” x 3/4” pine to accommodate the 3/8” thick doors. After adding the 3/8” door stops, I drilled 5.64” holes through the top and bottom of frame at the hinge locations. I cut the head off 1.5” finish nails which became the door hinges.The mirror frames were formed by removing heads and bending 2.5” finish nails with my lineman pliers. I drilled 7/64” holes through roof and top of each mirror and glued in place with epoxy. Door handles were formed in the same way.Additional details include: coloured rear, front, roof and step lights; blue/yellow caps for DEF and diesel tanks; bucket seats in cab; mud flaps; and lug nuts on all wheels.

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Bench Lathe Cabinet/Stand

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This 21 drawer cabinet had already been designed to hold my tools for building R/C airplanes. Those tools are mostly small and better suited for shallow drawers. Just a couple of days before I started construction a friend asked me if I wanted to buy his lathe. I did so a little redesign was needed. The significant changes to the original design were a stronger base instead of 3/4” plywood and a 3/8” ply back instead of the original .20” floor underlayment back.The carcass is 3/4” Purebond maple veneered ply. The base is made from 1-3/4” thick engineered beam ripped to 3-1/2” width. It sits on eight adjustable levelers because the concrete guys did me no favors in getting the floor flat. The drawers are made from 1/2” Purebond which is not nearly as nice as the unobtainable Baltic birch for drawer sides. The drawer bottoms are floor underlayment. The top is a 23” solid core door cut down to 63” long.The drawer false fronts are copied from a project I saw on YouTube. They're 3/4” MDF. The corners were rounded with a 1/8” radius bit and finished with thinned oil based Varathane, rolled on with a 4” soft woven roller. Early coats were thinned 2:1 and the last coats were thinned 10:1. Sanded before the first coat and before the last coat only. The full extension ball bearing slides were a marketplace find that helped offset the cost of the plywood.It's definitely been my most complex project to date. It does everything I had hoped.The finished project.The engineered beam foundation. The levelers couldn't be locked after the cabinet was complete so the base was leveled and the floor marked so it could be returned to the same place fairly precisely.The cabinet was built on sawhorses to make it easier on my body. With so many drawer slides they were all removed before taking the carcass off of the sawhorses. The slides alone weighed 60 pounds.
Top and retractable casters installed. Due to the weight of the finished build, the lathe was installed and the cabinet moved to its final position before replacing the slides and drawers.
A quick check to make sure things still fit after adding the 500 pound lathe to the cabinet. The drawers still worked smoothly.

Detail view of the false fronts.

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Beach Triptych- Spalted Maple

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Recently vacationed at the beach with our daughter, son and law and grands. Had a few favorite pics from that trip printed and built this as a birthday present for our daughter.Took a chunk of Spalted maple log Planed one surface flat before sawing it into 1 + boards.
Mitered corners with black walnut splines.
Adorned with seashells collected during our trip.
Spraycan poly finish.

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Hickory and Walnut Bed

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Wife spent hours trying to find a new headboard for our son's room. She showed me a few pictures of what she was looking for. She left town for the week without ordering. When she came home, I had this one done and moved into his room. Its MUCH better made than the ones she was looking at.The bed is calico hickory, mostly the sapwood culled from another project, finished with Watco Dark Walnut Danish Oil and rubbed out with dark paste wax. The top trim of the headboard and footboard is walnut, also finished with Watco Dark Walnut Danish Oil and rubbed out with dark paste wax.
The slats are maple made per Charles Neil's video instruction. 8 slats are more than needed, but if my grown son decides to jump on his new bed, I'm not worried. That bed is solid!As always, I appreciate your comments as well as suggestions on how my next one can be even better.

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Side yard gate

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Follow up to a house that I remodeled. Fence boards and gate panels from redwood board & batten siding from an old garage that I took down. There were (still are) lead pellets embedded in the wood, guessing from kid's target practice. Gate frame is from redwood rafters salvaged from carport on this property. Custom latch from Ipe- can be operated with one hand, no springs. The stop has a strip of neoprene foam cushion. Closer weight is some brass door knobs from the scrap bucket. gate is hung slightly out of plumb, so it stays when fully open, but closes and latches by itself from partly open position. There were pipes in the ground below the hinge post, so the extra stuff there. Domino tenons made from mahogany, as standard beech ones rot outdoors. Both rails and gate panels are rabbeted and fastened with brass screws after applying finish (siding stain) so all parts are sealed, including screw holes, and there are no dados to trap water. I've used this technique multiple times- good for painted as it resists tannin bleed. It also adds some strength as well as repair-ability. Now in service 4 or 5 months.

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Bathroom Vanity and Shelf

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


We recently remodeled our master bathroom. The original vanity had only one sink so we wanted to add a second sink. These photos are of the vanity and shelf that I made. The vanity top and shelf are maple. The vanity is made of poplar and maple plywood. The bathroom is not a large bathroom so it is hard to get good photos of the vanity installed so I have also included a couple pictures of the vanity in my shop before it was installed.

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It's Clamplicated - Mistakes Were Made...

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I needed some long reach clamps for my current project, so I made 3 sets of long reach C clamps of different lengths. The first ones I made from 3/4” Baltic Birch. This turned out to be a mistake. The material is far too flexible at that length, and because of that, it does not exert as much pressure as I'd like, only about 20 lbs. It might be okay for a shorter clamp, but for these long ones it was somewhat of a disappointment.UPDATE: The Fix is In! – Zip Tie to the Rescue
This simple modification overcame the excessive flex and gave me 40 PSI at the clamp face.The fabrication of the second set was also somewhat of a disappointment, but I got better clamping pressure, 40 lbs. I didn't make the shoulder wide enough, and I cut the groove too far up from the underside of the top piece. Because of this, the wood had a tendency to split at the shoulder of the clamp, so I had to reinforce that with zip ties. The material I used is Ash that I recycled from an old futon frame.The last and most successful set were also made from recycled Ash, and also achieved 40 lbs. of pressure, but with a much shorter throw. I made all the right moves with these, shoulders wide enough, groove cut not too far up.IMPORTANT: If you decide to make these clamps, the wood where the threaded insert goes needs to be supported front to back with a Bessey style clamp and on both sides with an F clamp. The hole that the insert gets threaded into needs to be lubricated with paste wax as well. If you don't take these precautions, the wood will split.

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Arbor Morris Chair

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This is the newest Morris Chair I released at the 30th Arts and Crafts Conference at the Grove Park Inn. It is made out of Quartersawn White oak and Ebony with a dye stain and a hand rubbed lacquer finish. Steam bent solid arms with through tenons with my signature Arbor Tree on the sides. Reclines in three positions. Cushions are down and feather blend. A heirloom piece. Elegant yet modern twist in the Greene and Greene style on a classic Morris Chair.Follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/brianbracefinefurniture

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Hackberry Three Footed Vessel

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This is a simple once turned closed top bowl and is another addition to my recent “Footed Vessel” series.This piece was a bit spontaneous and was somewhat quick and simple. I collected a few pieces of Hackberry in late June but set aside the blanks I cut and prepped from it. This was one of the larger blanks cut from a crotch and even though I prepped it with Anchorseal the pith was prone to cracking. I almost decided to not use it but the cracks where superficial enough that I was able to stabilize the blank with some epoxy.This vessel was very quick to turn after I stabilized it but it was green enough to move while on the lathe. I used gouges and skews to shape the exterior and gouges and a few hand made and reground hollowing tools.Top tool is a reground HSS round nose scraper that is excellent for hogging out interiors of bowls. It was an inexpensive set and I reground the second larger one into that negative rake scraper I've recently shared.The middle tool is an inexpensive hollowing tool I bought from Aliexpress. I put an 85 edge on it and it really cuts very well.The bottom tool is another inexpensive Aliexpress tool. I bought it without the handle and made my own. The carbide cutter and the curve of the tool make this one especially great at interior undercuts.The feet were cut into a ring by hand saws, rasps and a Grobet Swiss pattern file. There was a lot of hand sanding on this piece around the feet. I was also able to leave a bit of a bark inclusion.Dimensions are as follows…
Outside dimensions of the Hackberry Three Footed Vessel are 9 at the widest, 2 1/2 deep with a fairly consistant wall thickness of 1/8.Finish is a Danish oil blended from oil based poly, tung oil and mineral spirits. I used the Beall buffing process with tripoli, white diamond and finally carnuaba wax.Because the blank was cut from an crotch there are some very nice areas with interesting grain. The Danish Oil finish really allows the grain to “pop” and the Beall buffing system really enhances the chatoyance in the wood.
Its a simple piece and the warping will continue for sometime.
Thanks for looking.

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Ryobi 5 Random Orbit Sander Review

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Tool: 18V ONE+ 5″ Random Orbit Sander PCL406B Shop Now   Manufacturer: Ryobi MSRP: $59 (bare tool with 3 sheets of sandpaper) Usually, the first steps of reviewing a tool are taking it out of the box, charging the batteries, …Source

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Low-profile Serving Tray

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Off-the-rack moulding and packing tape make this project easy. A shopping trip to the pre-cut moulding section at Lowe's was the beginning of my tray design. I had a general idea of what I wanted to make - a shallow …Source

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SERVING / CUTTING BOARD

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Primary made as serving board, but,....who knows, it can be used as cutting board as well…
Made of ash, 50×22 x 2.5 cm, finish food friendly wood oil.
Cut on bandsaw, edges sanded on disc and belt sander, both surfaces on hand orbit sander.
Bike(rider) and QR code were made on laser engraver.

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Floating Backlit Bookshelves

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


These bookshelves were a sub-project of a basement improvement project that I started early this year, and they're the first to be completely finished. I'll post the cabinet build project once they are completed (I'm oh-so-close).The bookshelves are 3/4” maple plywood with iron-on birch edge banding. (I bought birch banding prior to deciding on the less-expensive maple plywood. The color is close enough.) The finish is shellac followed by GF Exterior 450 Flat poly. They're mounted with a french cleat, which floats them away from the wall 3/4”. The back panel of each box is dadoed to accepts aluminum channel for LED strip lights.
The four boxes hang on four matching cleats with some low voltage wiring running between them, with the 12V wire from the transformer exiting the wall behind one of the boxes.
I added a spacer between each box to visually lighten the look and make the assembly look less monolithic. The spacers are made from the same 3/4” ply with a teak veneer applied, also finished with shellac and poly. They simply hang on a plywood cleat that's attached to the side of a box with double-stick tape. I made a quick jig to place the cleat in the same location on each box.
I built the boxes with removable backs because I'm still on the fence about painting the back to match the wall (painting over contact paper) to give the illusion that the wall's visible through the shelves. Here's an earlier experiment with one box back painted that way. Comments on which looks better?

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Live edge end tables

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


The person I made the live edge dining table want end tables to match. They had old barn beams cut to make the legs. The beams matched the mantle. When I trying to figure out how to attach the legs I was going to lay them flat on the cut outs. Then the rough wood I was going through to use fit in the mortise that had been cut. So I decided to make tenons and peg them just like they were originally. I think they turned out great for not knowing how it was going to be put together at the beginning. I guess the old saying a blind squirrel finds a nut is true.

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scriber

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Continuing the tool theme, I made this recently after thinking about the design for a long time. I've done several previously that were modified cheap-o steel compasses, all with my innovation of a chopstick that can be sharpened with a pencil sharpener, or shaped. Mahogany, brass tubing cut & shaped, brass pins, shellac. You can clearly see the over-drilled hole of shame- a permanent reproach.

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Unjamming a Hole Saw

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Hole saws provide an inexpensive way to bore large holes, but they have a maddening tendency to clutch the drilled disk afterward. I've found that the best approach for removing a stuck disk from the saw is to clamp it …Source

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12v Drill Showdown

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


We take a look at six drills to see what sort of progress these tools have made in the past decade. There was a point in time when drill comparisons were ubiquitous in the pages of this magazine. There was …Source

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Gnome Bottle Stoppers

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Some Gnome bottle stoppers I made in the last few days. The woods include Maple, Ash and Cedar.Bobby
Louisiana

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Weeping Willow Vessel

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


This is another experiment for me, not so much in form but techniques and in species of wood.
I had never turned willow before and found an opportunity to collect some green wood and process it into blanks.
It was incredibly wet.As a trial I turned a very thin bowl from it but the tearout was unbelievable.
I decided to rough turn a second piece and leave the walls closer to an inch. I put it into a container of silica beads and left it for two weeks.I enjoyed this piece because I had an oportunity to try some additional techniques that were new to me. This included using a reground negative rake scraper (40/40) and reground skew with both a flat and a curve (35/35).Here are some pics of the reground tools I used on the vessel.
The top tool is a reground bowl gouge (3/4”) with a 55 bevel and swept back wings.The second tool is a skew I made with HSS that has a 35 bevel on both faces. I suppose that makes it a negative rake scraper.The third is a reground scraper that has 40 bevels on both faces. I ground it round on both sides as well.They all worked really well but mostly I used the bowl gouge to shear scrape the surface for the final cut.This vessel is 4 3/4” wide by 4 1/2” tall. The wall varies from 3/32ths” to a little under 1/8ths” towards the bottom.It is sanded to 320 grit, sealed with Mylands Sanding Sealer. Finally it is finished with Maloof wipe on poly/oil/ms blend and buffed with Beall Buffing system.Thanks for looking.

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Flattening a Plane Sole, Part 4 - Lapping a Leviathan

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Read Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3. The #8 Record plane I bought a few years ago was the most prominent, heaviest, and the longest plane I have ever lapped; it was also a plane for which …Source

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Planer Cart

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I made this planer cart for my Dewalt 725 planer based on Lockwatcher's groundbreaking blog tutorial. I tried to copy the dimensions exactly and it worked out very well. It is a good design and a solid cart. The design lends itself to so many different applications. I'm working on a lawn equipment cart to store my gas weed eater and leaf blower.I ran into a problem when installing the casters on my planer cart. I bought mine at Lowes. They seem like good quality but the mounting plate was 3” by 3 and 3/4” for 5-inch casters. This resulted in one of the holes having no wood to attach to since the bottom of the legs had an area for attachment that was only 3 inches square. Even downsizing from 5 to 3-inch casters would have resulted in the same size plate. My workaround for this was to add small cleats on the inside corners and glue and clamp them in place as shown in the two photos above. As you can see clamping was a bit problematic but I was able to git-er-done.I think another solution would be to extend the cleats for the bottom shelf into the corners and make them thicker so they are flush with the bottom rail. This would provide the necessary attachment structure for the attachment of the mounting plate. Next time should be easier.

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Stickley No 220 Sofa

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


My take on the classic Stickley Sofa. I went by the drawings in “The Great Book of Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture” by Robert W. Lang. I only made minor changes to accommodate differences in material. Typically this sofa would have been made entirely out of quarter sawn white oak. I had a pile of reclaimed red oak that came from a church stage that was being demoed. The general contractor knew I built furniture and asked if I wanted it otherwise it was going into the dumpster. Solid Oak boards 1” thick! After pulling out all the nails and running it through the planer it looked great. So the majority of the sofa is built from this Red oak. I didn't have anything thick enough so I used 3/4” red oak veneered plywood mitered to make the four posts. I wanted the quarter sawn look so I used quarter sawn white oak veneered plywood for the center panels. I also picked up some quarter sawn red oak for the rails. For the finish I used Jeff Jewitt's Mission Oak Finish technique. Probably unnecessary on the plain sawn red oak but I wanted to keep everything consistent color wise. I really wanted the quarter sawn parts to pop. For the most part they do pop. I will probably use this method again. My mother sews so she helped me with the cushions. If you ever find yourself wanting/needing to make cushions I would encourage you to look at sailrite.com. They have a youtube channel with a video entitled “30 minute box cushions” very helpful. They also have a calculator on their website that lays out all the cuts and dimensions you need to make your cushions. I am grateful for Robert's book. It was very helpful and has also inspired some future projects. Thanks for looking.

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Ruler gauge

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


On the tool making theme, this is my version of the most excellent JSK-koubou's (Youtube) design.
IPE wood, dado cut with small router table, wood tapped for thumbscrew, and a nice Shinwa 12” ruler with precise, easy to read markings. Surprisingly useful- one of the primary shop tools.If you check out JSK-koubou's precision projects , don't miss his work on winged flight.

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Attempt at a 14th Century Japanese Toolchest

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Most of the Japanese toolchests I make follow the pattern established by Toshio Odate, which makes them very traditional, but very modern.So what were Japanese toolchests like in the medieval period? Similar in some ways, but a lot less sophisticated.In the fourteenth century illustrated scroll, two apprentices take a break from working on the construction site of a new temple. One leans against a tool chest that is open, showing some tools inside. We can estimate that this chest is about 3 feet long, about 1 foot wide, and six or seven inches deep. The end handles and clever locking mechanism are missing, but the cross battens keep the lid from falling in. The wood seems very thin, represented by a single line whereas the battens are shown with rectangular ends. No joinery or fasteners are visible, which makes them something of a mystery. Butt joinery is used on the modern chest, so we can assume it was used here, too. No edge to the bottom of the box is visible, so the bottom piece is most likely fully captive. Nails are used on the modern chest, so it's likely they are used here, though they may be wooden nails or pegs.Here is my interpretation of the fourteenth century toolchest.I ran a 6-foot 18 and a 6-foot 112 through the planer to shave it down to a half-inch thick. I cut the bottom, lid, and two ends from the wide wood. I cut the sides and battens from the narrow wood, ripping the 7.25 width into 2 battens. Then, I nailed it all together.I deadened the nails for the lid, so it should hold together pretty well. The whole thing is 29 inches long, which was about the biggest chest I could make from the two boards with which I started.What did I learn? My chest isn't long enough, and it's possibly too deep. The proportions just don't look right. My battens should be made from thicker wood, and should be both narrower and closer to the ends of the lid. Because I used thinner wood, this chest is a lot lighter than a previous attempt. Very little wood is wasted, unless you count the one third of the lumber that got turned into shavings.

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Workshop step stool

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I needed a little step stool to reach upper shelves in my workshop. Made from red oak 13” tall, 14” wide, 12” deep. Legs splayed 10 degrees in all directions. Minwax wipe on poly finish

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Stickley Taboret #603

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


A traditional end table would have crowded the area for a neeeded table. Being a fan of Stickley, I decided this would be a fun build. pintodeluxe has a blog on this table where as he and I observed there is a lot of skill building opportunites in this relatively small project.

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House-shaped street-side letter box.

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Our local Postie says ” I have the best Letterbox in the whole town !! ”
It is also the easiest to see, from the street, and for anyone looking for me, I am easy to find as I simply tell them to, ” Look for the house-shaped letterbox !! ”
It is built from assorted scrap timber/lumber & heavy ply, while the roof is cut from a corrugated product called, ” Mini-orb ” which is a smaller version of the standard corrugated roofing iron which is a popular roofing product here in Australia.
I also cut the inlet slot at the front so it is wide enough for a standard magazine to be pushed through without getting stuck,- a must have for me as I subscribe to our Australian Woodworker Magazine, and I made the back opening wide enough for exactly the same reason.
Yes,- the back trap door can be locked,- but in this quiet street I don't bother
Enjoy the pics,- & who knows,- they might give the viewers ideas

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Bird Feeder or a Garden Coffee Table !

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


First two pics show my church-shaped Coffee table which is in the middle of my back yard lawn, – Yet ” I go to church for a Coffee ! ” on nice sunny mornings, while the other pics show the Bird-feeder version, which is basically the same design, just with a smaller tray, & a higher base. Both were built from whatever timber/lumber I had available at the time.

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Wari Kebiki /Japanese Cutting Gauge

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


My past several projects were all making tools I wanted by hand tools and this time was to make a Wari Kebiki, a Japanese cutting gauge.I wasn't confident enough to finish one that's usable quality and there are actually minor messes here and there but I finally made what I wanted! Also I have no tools/skills to fabricate a blade so I bought it from Japan.It's almost a year since I started woodworking as a hobby and it seems like I really get into woodworking…Footage:https://youtu.be/8nXT8AFkoK8

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Oneida Dust Deputy 2.5 Deluxe Review

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Tool: Dust Deputy 2.5 Plus Cyclone Separator Shop Now   Manufacturer: Oneida MSRP: $79.95- $199.95 In the shop, most of us use a variety of dust collection methods. For larger, stationary power tools, a dedicated dust collector is the best …Source

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Custom built wooden 1/20 scale Collector's Models

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


These are built from a mix of top grade Plywood, & real timber, then hand-painted to match as close as practical the Custom Printed Graphics on the Van or Refrigeration Van.
Each van is designed so the roof lifts off to reveal interior storage.
The rear doors open to show the, ” Load. “

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1/20 Scale wooden model based on, " Bandit's Truck. "

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Model based on the truck from the well known movie, ” Smokey & the Bandit, ” ( remember the movie )
I also have drawn up the 1:20 scale wood working plans for anyone interested,- and the plans include the Custom Graphics for the Refrigeration van & the Gold striping for the truck.

• Yes,- I do sell the hand built model to anyone interested,- simply ask.

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Milwaukee M12 Fuel Drill Review

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Tool: M12 Fuel Brushless Drill/Driver 2503-22 Shop Now   Manufacturer: Milwaukee MSRP: $169.99 (Includes charger, hard case, 2ah battery, and 4ah battery) We don't tend to perform drop tests on our tools. Well not intentionally at least. But if …Source

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Frame & Panel Chest, in Spalted Maple

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Standing about 17” tall, box is 36 by 17”, more or less. Frame and Raised panel construction…Panels sit in grooves.Corner posts are a 2 piece glue up….with a Tongue & Groove joint…made to look the same 3” width in either direction. Lid is a single glued up, raised panel, sitting in a frame's grooves….Corners of the lid have half blind dovetails3 “cup” handles…one on each end, and one for the lidStain is Witch's Brew..followed by 2 coats of Amber Shellac, then one coat of Clear Gloss Poly. There are plastic, nail on pads for the feet. Bottom is a 1/4” Luann plywood panel…sitting on 1×1 Maple cleats..About 5 weeks to complete…there is a Blog on the build….”A Project for June”?Thanks for looking in!

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Kalimba #3

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


I think I hit on a good combination of wood and thicknesses for this one. The main wood is maple (paduk marquetry). The back is 1/4” thick and the top is about 2mm. Sorry for the mixed measurements, but that's just how I do things.

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Mjllnir

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Mjllnir, Thor's Hammer.Woods: Maple, Spanish Cedar and Ash.Finish: Danish Oil.

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Double Duty Peg-Blocks

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


I needed a way to lift pieces off the surface of my bench for finishing, so I made some 3/4″ x 2″ x 3″ blocks and inserted 1/4″ x 1-1/4″ dowels into them. Here's the bonus: I discovered that if …Source

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