The Woodshop Shed

Hand Tool Liquidation

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Hello, everyone. My time in the workshop has dwindled in recent years. I've given a lot of thought to the time when I will no longer be able to enjoy woodworking at all, and I've discussed my options with my daughter and son-in-law. Neither one will carry my interest in fine furniture making forward. My son-in-law is a creative, get-it-done kind of guy, but he's not interested in the fine art of furniture building. He'll never appreciate or enjoy using my hand tools; he's a machine guy. Consequently, I'm going to begin liquidating many (most) of my hand tools, beginning with the ones I don't use. I have quite a few I've bought over the years and never used, or used so seldom that I won't miss them. All of them are high quality items. Some are antiques, others are modern tools from well known manufacturers. I don't have a lot of junk and I'm not going to list any of the junk I have. I've given a lot of thought to pricing. I'm not going to give this stuff away, but I don't think I've over priced these items either. I will start listing items a few at a time in the S&S forum beginning tonight or tomorrow. I will take A certified cashier's check, a money order, or your personal check in payment. For money orders and personal checks, I will wait until they have cleared and I have cash in hand before I ship the item. Prices for items do not include shipping. You tell me where you want the item shipped and how (USPS, UPS or FedEX) and I will let you know the actual shipping price to add to the price of the item.
Check Swap and Sell later this evening.
Hank

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A Headboard to Complete the Suite

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(from WoodNet.net)


In 2014 I built two dressers for a couple. They are made from rift sawn white oak with a very dark but not blackstain.



The next year I built two matching bedside cabinets for them.



In the interim, they moved house. One or both of the dressers were damaged by the movers. They asked if I could repair the damage (to the finish on two or three of the drawer fronts). As much as I wanted to help, I told them I didn't think I could do it w/o building new drawer fronts, and I wasn't confident I could get the finish exactly correct. I suggested they find a "furniture Dr", but didn't know of one myself. They did, and the guy did such a great job that I can't tell where the repairs were made.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago and they asked if I would make a headboard to match the cabinets. Thankfully, I had kept my finish sample and all of the directions on how to do it, so I said yes.

We decided to hang the headboard on the wall instead of attaching it to the bed. I designed it so that it hangs from two sets of French cleats and with a 1/4" gap to the wall because no wall is flat. The design is shown below:



I needed a good rift sawn white oak board to slice the veneerneeded to make the main panel, but when I called the shop where I buy lumber, they said they didn't have any and wouldn't order just a small amount for me. I found one or two boards in my stash that had 6" wide sections of rift sawn grain and I was able to get just enough veneer from them to do the project. I had to veneer some of the solid stock as well to cover defects in those pieces. My white oak inventory is essentially zero at this point.

The main panel is made from 1/2" plywood veneered with 1/10" white oak on the face and maple on the back. It was 80" long, too long for my vacuum bag. Luckily, I was able to borrow an 8 ft long bag from a friend. I used 1/10" thick veneer instead of the normal 1/16" so that I could cut 1/16" deep grooves in the face to simulate the gaps between the drawers in the cabinets. Turns out, you hardly see them unless you're pretty close. This is the headboard after glue up, minus the top cap.



The joinery is typically frame and panel with a stub tenon on the ends of the rails. The panel is glued into the frame so it's very strong.



The end of the stile is a pretty good graphic of how the grain runs in rift sawn lumber. To create the finish, the wood is first sanded, then you go over it with a brass brush to open up the pores along the rift sawn grain. The stain highlights the grain when viewing it from an angle. You have to be careful not to apply the finish too thick or the grain will get filled, diminishing the effect. After the stain was applied, I sprayed it with a coat of SealCoat shellac, and then two light coats of Enduro Clear Poly in satin to which I added additional flatters to cut the sheen to almost flat.



The cleats are glued and screwed to the back at the top and bottom of the main panel. The cleats on the panel are 3/4" thick, while the ones on the wall are 1" thick, which gives the desired 1/4" gap to the wall. I used a 30 degree angle for the cleats.



Here's a closeup. The top cap was attached to the panel with biscuits and glue and a few pocket screws.



I forgot to take pictures during installation, but it went as expected. The wall was not flat, also as expected, so the planned 1/4" gap turned out to be a wise move. I had to shim both cleats on one side to get them all in plane, but that was straight forward by holding a straight edge across the cleats and shimming with standard cedar shim, then screwing the cleats tight. Careful measurement paid off and the headboard fit nearly perfectly with the first try. The cleats on one side, however, didn't engage simultaneously. The top was a little loose, but adding a few thin shims cut from the top of a yogurt container resolved that and it fits tight with no rattle. So here's what it looks like.







We were all happy with how it turned out.

John

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Countertop Miter Done

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(from WoodNet.net)


I posted this as a reply to my other thread, but it's at the bottom of a long threadso I thought I'd just make a new post about it here.
I chose to go with a 90 instead of a long 45-ish miter on my countertop.

Here is a picture of the countertopwith the finished butt joint. I failed at getting the seam less noticeable than I had hoped, but it's more than acceptable to loml so I'll take the win.
I'm happy with it and that I chose to do the 90 instead of a 45 as this is visible from the dining room on the other side of the peninsula.


Here is a picture before I finished routing the corner. I purposefully did not chamfer the edge all the way to the corner, so that I could do that after final installation. I could have done that at the time of dry assembly in theworkshop, but then I would have had to fuss more about getting the router corner to match up.

The hardwood edge is hickory, which is not yet finished. That also was deliberate. I figured it might get scuffed during installation, so I'm opting to apply the finish after install. So next on the list of things to do is to scrape and sand the wood edge and get the finish on it asap.

thank you too all for your thoughts and insight on this project to date.

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laminate corners not gluing properly

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(from WoodNet.net)


Sometimes the corners of a laminated top don't adhere very well for me.I've had this issue at times in the past on small and larger projectsand on this kitchen project i'm in the middle of (which is by far the largest laminate project I've done to date). I don't know what I could be doing wrong. There's adequatecontact cement and I'm press-rolling it with plenty of pressure, but sometimes a corner or edge just doesn't stick well. Not on all corners, but maybe a third of the ones I had to do. It was no biggy to correctwith 2-part epoxy and clamps, but frustrating fussiness nonetheless.

This time I also had two ends about 24 inches across that I noticed were wanting to open up slightly. Fortunately I noticed those soon afterthe lamination process and I clamped them down with a caul. Left them overnight and there's no more issue.
The entire countertop adhered well, but just nota few corners and those two edges.

The contact cement isn't that old. A few months since I first opened itand it waskept inside the house between use. I mixed it well. The 5x12 laminate roll was taken out of the shipping box a good week ahead of installation and left rolled out to relax for several days. Eventually I did roll them back up into large rolls to stand up out of the way. The diameter was like a good 36-40". So it's not like I popped the tightly rolledlaminate out of the shipping box and slapped it onto the substrate.

It's going to be a long minute before I have another plastic laminate project, but what could I maybe do differently to avoid this adhesion issueandhaving to fuss with it?
thanks!

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