The Woodshop Shed

Rocking tractor update

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)



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  IMG_0853.jpeg (Size: 59.76 KB / Downloads: 44)a while ago I posted some questions about building a rocking tractor- it is done!

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Dust Bin Level Sensor?

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(from WoodNet.net)


Anyone here have installed a dust bin level sensor/alarm? What do you use?

I have a lexan window on mine to visually see when the dust is getting high in the bin, but soon enough my cyclone will be in a mechanical room separate from the workshop and I won't have ready visibility of the dust bin to know when it's getting full. So I've been thinking of installing a sensor of sorts to turn on an alarm light in the shop to warn me that the bin is getting full.

I was just checking out the system that Oneida sells and at $149 it's a price point at which I'm inclined to justbuy another tool with that money and just visually check my dust bin at the beginning and end of each work day in the shop. But still I guess $149 isn't too bad for what it is.

I recall reading somewhere that some people set up a pressure switch to sense the increase in pressure in the dust bin. If that's simple enough, maybe that's a more affordable option.

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Hinge type?

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(from WoodNet.net)


I built a storage box which doubles as a step or a small platform.
It's 22-1/2 X 18 X 10.
The lid, the top of this object, is split into two sections such that a portion of it is fixed in place.
The fixed portion is 6-1/2 X 18.
The remainder of the lid butts up against and will hinge to this fixed section along the 18 dimension.
It will lift up from the opposite end.

The location where this box goes is several hours away and I can't recall if it's possible to have the 16 X 18 section of the lid hinge from the opposite end and open from the center. But, we thought it would work best opening from the outside edge.

Because it's also a step (small platform), I don't want anything sticking up above the surface of this top.
When the lid is closed, it sits flat on top of the box's 5/8 thick frame as does the fixed portion.
Thus, I anticipate the hinges will mortise into the top face of each side of the lid with the knuckle down into one edge.

Am I correct?
Am I missing anything?
Your suggestions as to the proper himge?

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Need to reduce a cabinet door

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(from WoodNet.net)


We bought these cabinets from Ikea about 15 years ago. The doors are made of real wood on the rails and styles. This cabinet lives above the fridge and the space it left has always been a bit tight. The fridge is now having problems to the point we will need to replace it soon-ish. However, most fridges are a bit taller and they will block the doors. My plan is to try to cut them down a bit and reduce the cabinet box size. I'm a bit apprehensive because we can't get replacements for these anymore so if I mess it up, it stays that way. From what I have found so far, there is no good way to take the joint apart. You have to cut it. I'm hoping someone here has done this and might have some magic that let's me bypass all that. The end result would be the top and bottom retaining the same width and the sides and panel will be about an inch shorter.


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