The Woodshop Shed

joinery advice

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I posted this design quite a while ago (probably more than a year ago) and got a lot of good advice that I implemented. I am now finally in the process of building it. I am wondering what would bethe best mechanism for joining the head board and foot boardpanel assemblies tothe legs/posts.

I built John Teneyck's horizontal router mortiser and am thinking that loose tenons is my best option, but wondering if I am overlooking something that might be better.

The wood is cherry. The legs/posts are 3/4" boards glued into a 3 1/2" square usinga lock miter bit. I have machined the leg/post boards but have not glued them up yet so I can still add something to the inside of the postif needed(like maybeathreaded insert or something).

I do not own a Domino.

If I did loose tenons would 1/4" (easiest) be enough or should I go 3/8" (requires an additional set up step and extra pass or buya new 3/8" bit). Also would you only put loose tenons in the top and bottom rail, or would you put a couple in the outside stiles of the panel assembly?

How would you attach the panel assembly to the posts? Thanks in advance for the advice.


  Micaelas bed.png (Size: 68.61 KB / Downloads: 106)


  Micaelas bed2.png (Size: 102.33 KB / Downloads: 54)

edited with new picture for clarification

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Ridgid Bandsaw - new motor?

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I have the Ridgid[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]BS14002. It has only 6 inches of resaw capacity. I was thinking of a mod or two the increase it.[/font]
[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]First, add a riser.[/font]
[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Second, upgrade to a carbide resaw blade[/font]
[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Three (here is the real question), upgrade the motor. The existing motor is 3/4 horse. Can I get a bigger, stronger, more powerful one?[/font]
[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Will it make a difference? If so, where would I look to find a new motor.[/font]

[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Any input is appreciated.[/font]

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A Slice of Humble Pie Today

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I built four doors for a lady's kitchen "pantry" cabinet. I went there and measured, came home, drew it up on SketchUp and then made the doors. White oak with Osmo Polyox finish. The kerfs in thefloating panels were done on my CNC.



I did the install this afternoon. I had made a story pole for all the vertical elements, so I used it to mark and drill for the faceframe hinges. The doors clipped on perfectly. I got the two doors on one side installed, then began on the other side. I got the top door mounted and swung it closed to admire my work - to find a 3" gap between them! What the ...... OK, no fix for this except to make new ones. Not a good day.

After I got home, I looked at my SketchUp drawing and see that I somehow used the actual inside dimension between the face frames as the outside dimension for my drawing. That'll do it. Next time, I will make a horizontal story pole, as I normally do.

Anyone need some 15-1/2" wide doors?

John

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Using a Plane

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I have had a Dunlop plane for many years. Used it a few times along the edge of a door so it wouldclose properly. I would never use it on the surface of a good piece of wood, as it would tear a chunk out. After watching this guy on YouTube, I just planed the entire surface of a walnut farm table I'm making ! WOW !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrXQzjANuCA

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