The Woodshop Shed

Walnut

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Not often you come across nice clear walnut of this size. 20+" wide x 7' long x 2" thick. Saw it posted on Facebook by a lumber supplier a little over an hour away and did not diddle around. The dark areas are where it got wet from rain on the way home.

I have some leads on a CNC machine to mill these down to thickness. They are already skip planed to 1-7/8" Going to be a dining table at about 1-5/8" thick.


  Walnut 1.jpg (Size: 161.92 KB / Downloads: 129)


  Walnut 2.jpg (Size: 96.71 KB / Downloads: 128)

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then...diasaster struck

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(from WoodNet.net)


or maybe it a senior moment, or just plain ineptness on my part.Back around the first of the year I started working on building a serpentine drawer sideboard. This is to replace one we already have (POS) and I was trying to copy it in detail. This will sound like I'm making excuses (I probably am), butmy wife is handicapped so I also do caregiver and all household choresand of course the outdoor stuff. So my time in the shop might be 15 minutes a day, with an occasional sprinkling of 1 hour stints.So when I made this mistake I have all kinds of excuses for doing it, but the truth is it shouldn't have happened.Couple that with me making this project much harder than it should be (building drawers first, then the carcase) and the result is this screw up. The piece has a full width drawer in the center, and2 smaller drawers at the top.I vacuum pressed the 2 drawer fronts and cut one in half for the upper 2 drawers. Then I went ahead and finished the drawer boxes, intending to build the carcase to fit them. The story goes on for several paragraphs that I'll skip, but here's what happened:the 2 half fronts needed t be fit in the same way they were pressed but instead I made the right side drawer with the front upside down.This results int eh curves not matching the trim pieces as well as the second drawer. I'm now faced with disassembling the original and make a new box keeping the front oriented correctly. There was a dozen way for me to avoid this, and none of them worked; I screwed up. here's some pics, the close up is the misaligned front, and how it looks when I sit the drawer in there upside down. BTW another genius move I made was to use brass dowels to hold the fronts to the boxes, that complicates my disassembly process quite a bit, I won't be able to just resaw the rabbit for the sides.

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  crapsm2.JPG (Size: 754.99 KB / Downloads: 87)

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The Pedestal made from those Beveled Edge Panels

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After I made the panels with the supplemental fencethat I showed on another thread, I glued them up and then fit the top to it. The overall dimensions are 22W x 16D x 31H. I put corner blocks inside at the bottom to help reinforce it there.






After filling and sanding the low spots flush, I ran a 1/8" round over bit along all the edges. I painted it with BIN 123 WB primer. At $28/gallon it is a bargain and with a little thinning sprays as well as the BIN shellac pigmented primer I used to use until the price got ridiculous. The topcoat is Duralaq WB white acrylic lacquer. Great stuff, but I'm not sure it's still available. I had a gallon left over from my kitchen remodel a few years and it was a perfect use for a little of it.

I brought it upstairs this morning and willlet it cure for a few days before delivering it to our local library where some sculpture will be mounted on top.





Simple forms like this show every defect when painted. The time I spent filling and sanding the low spots, more than once, paid off. Thepedestallooks about as perfect as I'm capable of.

John

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Metal ceiling in workshop?

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A friend of mine has a metal ceiling in his detached garage/barn. It looks good.
It had me considering installing metal instead of drywall for the ceiling in my barn workshop. But what might be potential concerns with having a metal ceiling in a workshop?
Mine will be 12' from the floor.

If I were to do drywall I would trim it out instead of mudding 1000sf of ceiling and only mud over the screws.
I found scratch n dent sources of metal sheets that significantly close the gap between the cost of metal and drywall at the box stores. I will still have to paint it because the source I found currently doesn't have white. Plus I will want a flat ceiling white and not the typical glossy look of factory painted metal. I'll also have to paint over scratches that are either already there or that I cause during installation.
I figure that if I install metal that I'll only have to trim the perimeter or use J channel. Another advantage over drywall ceiling is that I don't need as many ceiling joists. DW will require 16of but My friend has his metal ceiling screw runs 48 apart. I might do 24 though because I just want the extra support for me when I climb up there to put down insulation. Plus I might want to use the space for some light storage.
Anywho - back to sharing thoughts, considerations, and potential concerns regarding a metal ceiling.
Thanks

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