The Woodshop Shed

Need to reduce a cabinet door

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


We bought these cabinets from Ikea about 15 years ago. The doors are made of real wood on the rails and styles. This cabinet lives above the fridge and the space it left has always been a bit tight. The fridge is now having problems to the point we will need to replace it soon-ish. However, most fridges are a bit taller and they will block the doors. My plan is to try to cut them down a bit and reduce the cabinet box size. I'm a bit apprehensive because we can't get replacements for these anymore so if I mess it up, it stays that way. From what I have found so far, there is no good way to take the joint apart. You have to cut it. I'm hoping someone here has done this and might have some magic that let's me bypass all that. The end result would be the top and bottom retaining the same width and the sides and panel will be about an inch shorter.


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Hinge type?

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(from WoodNet.net)


I built a storage box which doubles as a step or a small platform.
It's 22-1/2 X 18 X 10.
The lid, the top of this object, is split into two sections such that a portion of it is fixed in place.
The fixed portion is 6-1/2 X 18.
The remainder of the lid butts up against and will hinge to this fixed section along the 18 dimension.
It will lift up from the opposite end.

The location where this box goes is several hours away and I can't recall if it's possible to have the 16 X 18 section of the lid hinge from the opposite end and open from the center. But, we thought it would work best opening from the outside edge.

Because it's also a step (small platform), I don't want anything sticking up above the surface of this top.
When the lid is closed, it sits flat on top of the box's 5/8 thick frame as does the fixed portion.
Thus, I anticipate the hinges will mortise into the top face of each side of the lid with the knuckle down into one edge.

Am I correct?
Am I missing anything?
Your suggestions as to the proper himge?

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Shapton Sharpening Stones

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(from WoodNet.net)


Been helping agood friend andFellow W'dworker is closinghis hobby shop. Age and medical issues are taking a toll. He showedsome Shapton stones and told me to pick what I need. Some are in unopened plasticcases.

Stones are: No-Kuromaku ceramic:

320 grit
1000 grit
1200 grit
2000 grit
5000 grit
8000 grit

Have no information about these stones except thatShapton is high quality. What would be good grit choices for chisel and plane sharpening? Or, would it be better to pass and let him sell all the stones as a six stone set?

Appreciate any advice.

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free(ish) sanding discs

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(from WoodNet.net)


benchmark abrasives is offering 50 assorted sanding discs for a $10 shipping charge. packs are either 80-220 grit or 320-1000 grit. hook and loop backing. I got a pack of 80-220 delivered the other day. haven't used them on power sander but am using them for sanding pieces for intarsia project. so far, for sanding intarsia pieces, I like it better than the purple 3M sandpaper so far.



https://benchmarkabrasives.com/pages/pur...6915810060

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