The Woodshop Shed

'Garden' chairs

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Woodsmith #45 (June '86) had a garden bench project that caused me to keep it for all these years. Don't need a bench, but I figured we could use a couple more chairs for the deck. I kinda thought the back should have had some curveage, and maybe a bit more angle... but I also figured the original designer had decided 'straight' was good enough. So I did it his way. Shouldn't have. Scaled down the legs from 2-1/2 " material to 1-7/8". Poplar, to be painted. Cute enough, I suppose, and LOML thinks they're fine. I'll sit in the Adirondack.



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Where I left off last fall

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I ran out of time last fall but this is where I am with the build. I will get it finished this year. I have the chop to finish, as well as the dead man. Not to forget completing the wagon vise. I have not decided whether or not to make it a split top or put on a tool tray. I know a tool tray is historic. And I am leaning that way. Please forgive to mess on the top. When dropping things off in the cold any flat surface works. The legs and chop as well as the dead man are walnut and the top is 4 inch thick Ash. The 4 inch Ash defeats the purpose of having a portable work bench. The wood screw is hard maple and has a couple of coats of BLO on it so it really isn't that color of yellow


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If you are 25 it is probably portable at 78 it is not.

Tom

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Round Tapered Legs made a different way

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The tapering jig I showed the other day was to prep some legs that I needed to "turn" with a round taper. I'm a lousy turner, and I knew I would never be able to make perfectly straight tapers, and any deviation would stick out like a sore thumb. So I decided to use my CNC to do it. The limited Z axis capacity of my CNC called for machining in a way that didn't give the smoothest finish, but after sanding they look perfect.

I drilled 3/8" holes in the center of both ends of the legs. I glued a 3/8" dowel in the foot and threaded a piece of 3/8" all thread in the top. Those "arbors" are held in a simple jig I made that's mounted parallel with the X-axis of the CNC. The CNC and me running a hand drill did the rest.


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The Simplest Tapering Jig

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I'm sure I've shown this before, but I had to cut tapers on some legs today, so I decided to take some photos and show you the simple jig I use. I make these jigs for the task at hand. I don't store them. They take 5 minutes to make from whatever scrap I have. The jig I made today was to cut tapers on 28" long legs, prior to turning. The jig is nothing more than a piece of plywood with a rear stop and a shim that's as wide as the taper you need to cut. These legs taper from 2.4" wide to 1.1", so the shim is 0.65" wide.



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Design question/opinion re entertainment center

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Joe 1086's thread about making a wall/shelves/TV space for his daughter prompted a thought I've had for some time. I was recently in a Best Buy and 85" TVs seem pretty common and reasonably affordable these days. I build an entertainment center in the late '90s for a 32" CRT tv. Yeah, sucker weighed close to 200 lbs. or more as I recall. Currently it houses a 46" Sony which is quite modest by today's standards. The TV sits on top of a 50 inch base with drawers and shelves with towers in either side. The towers are about 6" deeper than the base. Problem with this design is if I wanted to go with a TV larger than about 50", I couldn't. I could move the base out so it's in front of the towers that contain books and audio video devices. A larger TV would obstruct both towers. Anybody have a thought beyond redesigning/rebuilding at least the center portion?

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Soft Close Drawer Slides

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Any recommendation on lower cost alternative to Blum? I have only used Blum in the past and have been happy with them, but looking for same/similar functionality at a lower price point and similar quality. Any recommendation would be appreciated. Thank you!

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Reintroduction

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I was active here for a long time but life happens and I just haven't had time to post for a few years. Old timers here probably remember me but I see a lot of unfamiliar names. I have been at this awhile so hopefully I will be able to share and help out some of you guys starting out. I'll post some pictures of some of my work and see if I have some of my old step by step builds saved somewhere I can post. I build traditional Early American furniture but have unique ways to do a lot of the traditional joinery. Some things have to be done by hand but I have found that with some things there are faster more efficient ways to get the job done. At any rate, hopefully you guys will see me around more in the future.

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Make up table

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Gonna make my daughter a make up table. It will have two drawers on each side of the table and one in the middle (total 5 drawers). I do drawers using my Leigh D4R Pro jig - - and I dread when I have to use the thing. It does do repeatable drawers, but setting it up is almost beyond my patience level. I have ruled out hand-cut dovetails just because it takes me so long to do one drawer. My question is: does/has anyone used the various matching router bits to do drawer joints? Do they have the same strength and longevity of dovetail joints? Good idea? Bad idea?Any comments would be appreciated so thank you in advance.

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This is one big heavy duty bandsaw mill

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The wheels look to weight 150lbs or more



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Cutting tenons quickly and safely

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I recently have been making a dressing bench for use at the foot of a bed There are 12 mortise and tenon joints needed. I don't use much machinery in my woodworking, but I do have a table saw and a mortising machine, and a bandsaw. Those tools present several options for making good-fitting M&T joints, but I'll have to admit that I have not established an easily repeatable cutting technique. Could any of you share how you cut M&T joints in table construction?

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In making cutting boards what would you use

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for glue

Epoxy or titebond 3 or other???

Also do you like to make a pattern or cut thin strips or how do you make them and post what you made

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Project for my daughter

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I just finished a project for my daughter's house in Charlottesville, about a three-hour drive. They have an alcove in their family room, 12' wide and 8' tall and 27 deep. Originally, the alcove had a gas fireplace insert in the center, a TV/bookcase on the left, and a storage area on the right.

I started the project in the fall. One of the challenges was that everything needed to be transported in my SUV, which has a maximum 6' long interior capacity. So everthing had to break down to fit in the car.On one trip, I took the lower cabinet components and countertop; on a second trip, I took the bookcases and moldings. In November, I installed the base and cabinets; on New Year's weekend, we installed the shiplap; and this past weekend, we finished up with the bookcases. We were able to get the shiplap delivered locally.

All of the face frames and door rails and stilesare maple. They have a couple of kids and a dog, and we wanted material that was more resistant to dings and abuse. The countertop is maple ply. Surprisingly, both the maple hardwood and ply came from Home Depot. I probably paid a bit more by getting it there, but the hardwood was flat and clear, and so was the plywood. They wanted the shelves to be natural and beefy, so I doubled up plywood and edge-glued some maple. A couple of the HD boards had a bit of figure, so we used that on the shelving edges. The four lower cabinet sections are 3' wide and have a shelf, and I was a bit concerned about sagging over that length. I found some U-channels on Amazon designed for longer shelf spans and applied them to the front and back of each shelf.

Thanks to the forum with finishing suggestions. The cabinets are painted with BM Advance - I brushed it on, after failure trying to spray it. I borrowed an Earlex HVLP but it didn't have enough grunt to spray the paint without overthinning it. But the Advance paint leveled out beautifully. I used GF High-Performance poly on the shelves.

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Trestle table and benches in red oak build

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I'll be starting this table in the coming week. Unlike the attached images it will be modeled after, it will have a straight plank top and glued up legs instead of the reclaimed look.

Size will be 30x72.

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Is there any woodworking you can make money at?

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I'm a woodworker of average talent who is about to sell my business and "retire". I have a good line of woodworking equipment, shop space, average woodworking skills, and land with a lot of ash and walnut trees. (I have already cut and had trees milled so I know how that goes).
I know that every fool with a tablesaw and a hammer dreams aboutmaking a living woodworking, but is there anything that actually pays?
I'm not looking to make a living doing it, I'll have social security and other investment money, but I would like to have something to spend some time doing and at least break even on.

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TB ll ?

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Would you use 4 year old TB ll?
Think I'm gonna trash can it.

Ed

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