The Woodshop Shed

retail workbench

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Hey folks,

I have a friend who is shopping for a workbench for her husband who just turned 70 and moving into retirement/hobby mode.

Besides Woodcraft, what other retail entities sell decent (while maybe over-priced) workbenches that won't take ton of assembly to get up and running?
I'm in central KY so please keep recommendations in mind please!

Thx, Eric

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Anyone ever build a pulpit for their church?

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Now that I'm retired (lil' gloat there....) I've been asked to build a new pulpit. Here's what I'd like to do.

The issue I'm dealing with in my melon is how to get it out of my basement shop once completed. I figure I can build (as one unit) the front and the first tapered sides. (they look to go back about 10-ish degrees). I don't think I can add the "full returns" until I get it in the church hall. (the door out of my shop goes through the garage so I'd guess it's 30"-32"wide, with he hinges off). Boy, I wish I had a Bilco door in my shop!!!

Assuming I go that route, how would you make the returns so that they can be attached once it's in the church.

I also thought about building the entire thing without the floor and doing the "turn, turn, turn" method to get it out of the door. and then attaching the floor once I get it in the church.

I'll be re-using the book holder from the existing pulpit which should make the build go more quickly.

How would you build this so it can be transported out of my basement shop?

front_view.JPG (Size: 21.96 KB / Downloads: 36)

side_view_2.JPG (Size: 10.21 KB / Downloads: 36)

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Branding Iron

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Looking to purchase a branding iron. Feedback appreciated.

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Maloof-inspired rocker (From the Way-Back machine)

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In the other thread about stabilizing defects in walnut, I posted a pic of the arm of my ricking chair in which I had used epoxy to fill a large void. A couple of members have requested pics of the rocker. I didn't want to hijack the thread, so here it is.

I thought I had posted this rocker on the forum shortly after I made it, but a search turned up no pics. I'm pretty certain I posted it over on Lumberjocks.

This rocker was built from a set of Hal Taylor plans back in 2013. It was my second rocker using these plans.In the other thread, I said it was done in 2012, but I was mistaken.

  Rocker 1.jpg (Size: 44.06 KB / Downloads: 34)

The void in question is on the right arm rest. That void went all the way through the wood and was large enough to almost stick one's finger through it. I first filled the void halfway with clear epoxy and used ground coffee as a colorant/fill material. Then I mixed up more epoxy and used turquoise colored acrylic craft paint as the colorant. I wouldn't use acrylic craft paint today as there's a large risk of overdoing and ruining the epoxy mix, but I didn't know that at the time. I got lucky.

  Rocker 2.jpg (Size: 36.86 KB / Downloads: 34)

There's another epoxy fill on the facing surface of the chair and it's in the headrest. The black area near the left side the pic is filled with epoxy, also colored with coffee.

  Rocker 3.jpg (Size: 46.37 KB / Downloads: 34)

I guess this build took me about 120 hours or so to complete. I learned much about proportionsand how to make something look light when you're actually using a LOT of wood.

Thanks for looking.

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Stabilizing defects in walnut slab

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Hey all,

I'm about to start on a live edge walnut coffee table and am looking for recommendations on dealing with cracks/voids. The slab has three defect types:

1. Two bark (or walnut?) inclusions, about 1-1.5" diameter. They appear contained/stable. I'm not terribly worried about these.
2. A decent sized knot with a crack through the middle. The knot and crack go all the way through to the other side. This is the defect I'm most worried about, as I think it'll continue to move through the seasons.
3. Some hairline cracks along one edge of the slab, roughly 2-6" from the edge. I assume this was due to drying.

At least for #1 and #3, I planned to fill them with epoxy (thin for the hairline cracks to get deep penetration), both to stabilize and flatten with the surface. Perhaps with mica powder mixed in (not sure if I'll use black to hide it or turquoise to make it a feature).

For #2, I worry that epoxy would not be sufficient, and the cracks would either open back up or the knot would create a new crack since the existing one would be locked down. How would you approach this? Would butterflies plus epoxy fill be better? Just butterflies and leave a hole? Something else?

Thanks,
Tyler

(Pictures in next post)

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Fixing Orange Peel?

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I sprayed some drawer faces when I think it was too hit, and ended up with orange peel. Can this be fixed? Sand it down and put in another coat? Or just live with it?

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Simple question

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Going to be gluing some shop cut veneer on MDF.

Tightbond ok?
Or would you use another glue?
Should I rough up the MDF for more tooth?

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Wrapped this one up

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My last pic of this. I've completed my attempt at a serpentine drawer sideboard.I've made a few other posts about this, so I'll keep this short. There are more things about this I don't like (a very long list, including the way it was built) than those I do like (I likethe drawers). But here's the final product. This was a copy of an existing piece hence the list of dislikes, but pending approval to put it in the house at least I'm done with this one.I do wish the doors matched the veneer on the drawers a little more closely, but that will change over time anyway. I do like the way the drawer pulls off the original piece look on this on, but the design with those doors on the bottom is not that good looking. Maybe what i hate the most is those casters on the legs (copied from the original), they just look like crap. The mirror frame is a little different from the original, but otherwise it's a pretty close copy.

finshed 2edit copy.jpeg (Size: 944.66 KB / Downloads: 131)

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Outdoor Wood Tone epoxy

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Is anyone aware of outdoor rated wood tone epoxies? Our outdoor furniture has composite armrests that a squirrel has discovered. We have a terrible existence with the squirrels. They chew on everything.

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Making Mocha Door

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I've been using these doors in my house in mocha color and now need to add a door for the new pantry.

https://www.menards.com/main/doors-windo...-12245.htm

My wife wants a frosted glass panel door, but not with the word "pantry" on it. We haven't been able to find anything that isn't insanely expensive, so I'm debating making one. These are made from poplar, and obviously very dark. But they are not painted.

I'm wondering if anyone has any tips on stain that can get poplar this dark, or if I'm going to have to tint it first. I use tint for other projects, so it's not an issue. Any particular brands for stain?

I haven't made a real door before, but I've made cabinet doors, so I think I can handle that part.

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