The Woodshop Shed

adventures in woodworking and home maintenance, from my shop in an oversized backyard shed

October 2020
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Red Cedar stump table

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


Red Cedar stump table This section of Red Cedar has been drying for quite a while in the shop (.over a uear) so finally decided to keep it as a small table once finished.Much sanding and little chisel work to get the final smooth edges. The stump top was leveled out with my belt sanders was used to get as level as possible.Entire top and on the sides with Total Boat epoxy.
Hoping it will last for few years to come.Last picture is before finish



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posted at: 12:00am on 13-Oct-2020
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Hanging Wall Cabinet with Kumiko panel

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


Hanging Wall Cabinet with Kumiko panelThis is my second “Pekovich” wall cabinet. For this build I used quartersawn white oak for the carcass and bubinga and aspen for the drawer. The kumiko panel was made with basswood.Kumiko is for the patient woodworker but I think the rewards are great. It is really simple to do after learning a few basic techniques. Mike Pekovich and Matt Kenney both sell kits on their websites. There are many videos on youtube.For the finish I used Zinseer sealcoat everywhere but the bubinga. Shellac just made the bubinga too dark which resulted in too much of a contrast with the white oak. For the bubinga I use Minwax's polycrlic varnish. 99% of the time I use an oil and shellac or lacquer finish but this time this looked best. It surprised me, but It reaffirms the benefits of test pieces before applying finish to the final product.I learned a lot from Mike Pekovich's book “The Why and How of Woodworking” and highly recommend it.Thanks for looking, comments and questions are always welcomed.



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Planes finished

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


Planes finishedThese are the planes I got from the neighbor, with the other tools owned by her father (see the saws). Finally finished the restoration. They were in very good condition, with only the slightest coating of rust.There is a #5, a #606 bedrock and a #7. They will compliment my #3, #4, a couple of 5's, and my grandpa's #6. The bedrock is especially nice. the #5 and 606 are from the 1910 patent, and the #7 is form the 1902 patent. The casting on it is a bit rough on the upper surface. i worked out the specific version numbers but misplaced the paper.I removed the little rust with vinegar and on some parts, a dilute solution of oxalic acid. Both remove rust very slowly and thus do not harm the patina – if you are careful. After soaking, the residue was removed by light wiping with a white Scotchbrite pad (low abrasiveness).The japanningg was restored by first smoothing out the few chipped areas by blasting with fine grade walnut shells, which don't affect the metal at all.I went back to the original japanning formula that Stanley used. It consisted of artist's asphaltum pigment dissolved in semigloss varnish. The asphaltum was hard to find, and a 2 oz.tube cost $27. It goes on as a dark brown and becomes black after the second coat. It appears identical to the original stuff, which it is.I have not attempted any tuning, and I may never use them; most of my planing is done with the #3,4 or 5's, which are well tuned.Now, where to store and display them? another tool cabinet?



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