All started in spring, noticed the roof of the old garden shed)Plastic:() had holes in it from hail. Thought about going out to the coast to get some 6” x 6” Cedar posts to match the other shed in the back yard but new truck with short box may have trouble bringing home 10 footers? So went with 4” x 6” Pt but made the mistake of waiting too long to start, appears wood shortages and 200% price increase has made this a rather expensive little project. 2' x 4” framed inside with 1/2” plywood on the walls with 2” x 6” roof with 3/4” T&G Plywood coated with Deckover. Railing is stained 2” x 4” Pt with Titan Snap 'N Lock Baluster System from Lee Valley. Received the Grangirls approval except that one of them wants a Slide to get down easier, I was thinking Zip Line?
First off there is a lot of wood working involved here. The carcass of the BOX is MDFWanted to post what I am using my 2 Sidewinder 3D Printers X-1s on this week. I use these machines for the most part to print parts used in products I made for sale on Etsy that I could not make with traditional wood working. This is my latest and most complex PRINT and builds. Had many mistakes and redesigns on the printing. I had to have parts that were strong AND also gave/had access and RUNS for electrical wiring. There are 2 Smaller red and blue light hooked up with Toggles with lit Indicator light and a MAIN light NOT SEEN.The design of the MAIN 3 light support was at first made of one object BUT the supports would have killed me in PLA and time so made it a 3 part print so the main part sat flat on the build plate.I Use using SUNLO black but switched to HATCHBOX Black Much creamier and rock solid when printed.I could NOT find any sort of METAL with the right perforation for the sheet part of the lamp shade. I found this PVC Circle hole perf. sheet at 1/8 inch thick from US PLASTICS. I had no idea how to make all this work out. I had to make a HEAT BENDING MOLD to form the SHEET PVC. After a few tries I worked it out