The Woodshop Shed

Need Book Recommendation- Humidor Construction

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Are there any books forum members can recommend which give detailed instructions for how to construct humidors?
The more comprehensive the better.
Thanks in advance.

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Electric Motor question

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I have .LEESON electric motor that I replaced the bearings on. 5hp single phase as I put it back together I noticed that the rear bearing looks like it is not seated fully. After doing some research I found out that the shaft has to move that is way they put the wavy washer in both ends. But it seems to me mine is a little more it's about a 1/8 to 1/16 inch. Is this normal?

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Reverse of a Birds mouth router bit?

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Id like to streamline the cutting of a 90 degree angle on the edge of a board that is off axis enough to use it as a flat piece of crown molding


  IMG_0664.jpeg (Size: 98.66 KB / Downloads: 76)

I know I could do something like this with 4 cuts on the table saw, but I'd like a router bit that would cut each side in one pass.

I am sure a bit like this exists, what name does it go by so I can search for it?

Thanks
Duke

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Posted 12/26/24

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Let's see how long this stays on the front page.

Just for giggles.

Cliff

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Identify This Hinge

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Project from LOML. This pair of hinges goes on a round folding table that the top folds into different "pie pieces".

Obviously it's a concealed hinge, but that's about all I can deduce. Woodworker's Hardware didn't have a match. This isn't really a cabinet door hinge, but I suppose if you had a cabinet door that you needed to open a full 180 with a concealed hinge, it would do it.

One of the hinges has become very hard to function. I believe it was bent and now is really stiff if it bends at all.

No brand name, maker mark, number, or any identifying charateristic can be found on them anywhere.

  Conceal Hinge.jpg (Size: 668.08 KB / Downloads: 119)

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Small Tote from Current Issue of FWW

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I saw this project by Michael Pekovitch in the latest FWW and thought it would be a good opportunity to see if the vertical fence I had installed in my CNC would work for cutting the dovetails. Pekovitch used butternut and ash, finished with shellac. I used white oak and walnut, and Osmo Oil for the finish.



Turns out, the CNC could create "hand cut" dovetails very close to those Pekovitch cut by hand. The tail boards were cut with the stock flat on the table, in the normal manner. The pin board, however, was cut with the stock cut vertically so that the bit could create the required tapers for the pins. The beauty of this approach is that straight bits can be used for both the tail and pin boards. That also allows you to create any shape and size of dovetail desired, limited only by the length of the bit. Spacing is whatever you want.




I used the CNC to cut the tail and pin boards, as well as the handle.




By using a small radius bit to cut the corners of the tails, the result looks pretty close to hand cut dovetails. Accuracy and precision are assured, too.



Nice little project. Now that I've used the CNC to create some dovetails, I'm looking forward to incorporating them into a larger project.

John

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Resaw jig

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John (jteneyck) was so kind and shared with me a resaw jig he had made.

I had a LOT of veneer to make so the fact that the jig had to be readjusted after ever cut made me rethink the design.


My version allows you to resaw up to about an 1 1/2" board without any adjustment. I have done an 1 1/4" board and I know a thicker board could be done.

As you can see, I used extension springs and arms with a pivot point in the middle.
The larger rod you see protruding from the top is the pivot rod. The smaller one is a stop rod for the arms.
The springs I used don't put a ton of pressure but seem to work just right IMO. I used a threaded hook on one end of the springs so I can increase the tension a little if needed.
Of course, if determined necessary, the springs could be switched out with stronger springs.
2" wheels and then an arm that allows me to pull the rollers back to engage the piece to be resawn. As you can see the I used chain to connect the arms with the pull back lever that is hinged.
I got the springs, rollers, chains, rods at Menards.

I cut up a BUNCH of walnut and 1/4 sawn WO and I am pretty happy with the results.

Toney


  Resaw Jig 1.jpg (Size: 112.23 KB / Downloads: 172)


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  Resaw Jig 5.jpg (Size: 82.48 KB / Downloads: 173)

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Daughter's spice rack is done!

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I finished this am by installing the clasp to keep the door closed.


I wasn't able to find the 3 Mountaineers print on the front and the inside, so I went with a cherry panel.



(the tough part will be mailing it to her in DC after Christmas!!!)

  Front_view_closed.gif (Size: 268.54 KB / Downloads: 123)

  Front_view_open.gif (Size: 231.53 KB / Downloads: 123)

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An Octagon Box

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I made this octagon box just for fun.



I first was going to make it round on both the inside and out andwith a threaded top, but after I saw how nice my miters were I decided to leave the outside as an octagon. For the curious, I cut the miters on my CMS using an added 90 deg fence to assure the piece were plumb against the fence, only to find that the 22.5 degangle was off by a fraction of a degree. I had to disengage the preset 22.5 deg detent and tweak the angle some unknown amount until the mating pieces formed a perfect 45 degrees.

I used myCNC to cut the ID. At 3" thick, this was about the maximum I could put under Z-axiswith a bit long enough to reach at least 1-1/2" deep. The ID is cut just over halfway, then the box is flipped over and the other side is cut, as well as the rabbett on the bottom to receive the bottom panel. What looks like two layers when you look inside the box is actually how the grain responded from the bit cutting in opposite directions. That would disappear if I had been motivated enough to sand it all out, but I wasn't.



The octagon shape pretty much nixed the idea of a threaded top. There's just no way that the top would line up with the base when screwed on. I could have used a round top to overcome that, but that didn't seem too appealing, so I just made a top with a shoulder on the bottom that fits into the ID of the base.

The dome shape of the top is easy to do with a piece of clip art from the VCarve Pro software I have, as were the flutes that lay onto the dome. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it, probably gift it,but it was a fun project to make.

John

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Black Walnut river table

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Fabricating a 28x18in end table with Black Walnut & Alumilite Deep pour resin.

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Chisel rack....install it bark side up or down

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I was futzing around in the shop Sunday and I made this chisel rack. (Everyone likes the exposed bark look these days to I figger, "What the heck".)

It will sit to the right of my benchtop and I initially planned on installing it bark side down, but then youreally can'tsee the bark unless you squat down, and I'm getting to the age when a squat could mean an impromptu trip to the can!!!


Bark side up shows off the bark (duh!!!) but the "shelf" (not the correct word, but you get the gist) isn't as wide. But I doubt I'd ever use it.


What's the consensus??

  Bark_side_down.gif (Size: 468.18 KB / Downloads: 107)

  Bark_side_up.gif (Size: 506.4 KB / Downloads: 107)

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segment jig

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looking to buy pete markens segment jig ,does any one have one and how do you like it? it looks to be the best on the market, thanks

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Remember the 3D chessboard I made a while ago? Now the chess pieces

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I finished up the chess pieces for the board I made a month or so ago. I thought about turning them on the lathe, but since some of them would be extremely small, I went the modern route. I somewhat copied what this guy did:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FW6P9rNeIYk

The wood is white cedar (from an old fence post...never throw ANYTHING out!!!) and some 8/4 cherry leftovers. I weighted each piece with a 1" pieces of steel.


The style isn't my favorite, but it was fun whipping them out.

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  Cherry_king_side_view.gif (Size: 118.89 KB / Downloads: 112)

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Flag Case

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I made this cherry flag case for the relative of a friend to honor a family veteran. The case is 26 x 17 and uses simple mitered corners and slip tenons (I think) to reinforce the corners of the removeable front. The finish was 5 wiped on coats of Waterlox OSF, and it could have used several more as that stuff is very thin, followed by rubbing the outside with brass wool to get a satin sheen. I must say, though, Waterlox looks great on cherry.



The front attaches to the case with dowel locators and magnets set into both the case and front. My CNC made that much easier than if I had had to do that by hand.

The glass shop used every bit of the overage tolerance allowed. It is a very close fit. The edges are seamed to avoid getting cut when handling the glass. As you can see, there are keyholes in the back so the case can be hung vertically or horizontally. The inner partition will be covered with whatever cloth the owner wants.

John

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Where can I find a Three Mountaineers Spice Rack print?

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Hi,

The enclosed spice rack was a wedding gift for my in-laws back in '65. I've built the rack for our daughter as a Christmas gift, but I can't find the print for the inside and outside anywhere. Looking as Etsy and Ebay and the Googler, I can buy the entire cabinet, but I just was the prints. Got any good sources that will have the prints? Thanks!

  3_Mountaineers_cover_shot.GIF (Size: 141.11 KB / Downloads: 66)

  3_Mountaineers_inside_shot.GIF (Size: 136.8 KB / Downloads: 66)

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