The Woodshop Shed

Using a Plane

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I have had a Dunlop plane for many years. Used it a few times along the edge of a door so it wouldclose properly. I would never use it on the surface of a good piece of wood, as it would tear a chunk out. After watching this guy on YouTube, I just planed the entire surface of a walnut farm table I'm making ! WOW !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrXQzjANuCA

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Another question about wood movement t

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If you have a panel built out of 2by 6 by 22 long red oak boards thatyou assemble side by side in order to have a panel that is 8ft long when finished, do you still have to worry about wood movement if you completely seal every exterior surface of the wood panel with something like poly. Would the wood still expand across the grain or would the sealing with poly stop wood movement and expansion?

Thanks

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My biggest resin river table

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Building a 27x55in red oak river coffee table with Alumilte deep pour resin

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A Pretty Big Dog RAS

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I decided to look for an old Dewalt with 24" of crosscut capacity. It will eliminate the need to use my giant TS sled when crosscutting panels wider than the 14" my other RAS's can muster. With a 14" blade I'll be able to cut most molding vertically, too.With some sage advice from Doug Tapper, I looked for a medium arm GA, and found one for a good price, but 7 hours away. Oh well, I went 5 hours for my MiniMax J/P, what's another 2 hours.

Last week I took my trailer to Philidelphia to get it. It was being used in a cabinet shop for rough cutting stock, a fate many an old Dewalt is tasked with. Great guys running this business making high end cabinetry,Philidelphia Woodworkingshould you care to see what they do. The saw looked to be in as good a shape as the photos they had sent me. 3 hp, single phase motor on it. It was the last machine in the 9000 sq ft shop. They are moving to a new 15000 sq ft facility and won't need to saw anymore because they bought a new upcut saw with automated Tiger Stop system. They sold the saw for $300, which I thought was a fantastic price.

I cut the cord near the motor and pulled the motor and carriage off the arm and put that into my car. I also blocked the arm with a piece of wood and strapped it to the table, and wrapped the arm and column with stretch wrap.We drug it over to the loading dock and got it onto my trailer for the trip home. Here it is just across the street from their shop.



It was an uneventful trip home other than a couple of the new straps I bought from HF kept loosening. After retightening them twice I took them off and replaced them with some other ones I had with me, not quite as stout but at least they stayed tight. Once home I slid the saw off the trailer into my garage and began the disassembly process in order to get it down into my basement shop.

I jacked the arm up off the column with a scissors jack.


Once it cleared the column I lowered it as far as I could and then picked it up. It weighed far less than I anticipated, fortunately, maybe 60 lbs. Getting the column out of the base turned out to be the hardest challenge. It slid easily in thebase casting except for the last couple of inches. I ended up tipping the table over, removing the column and base casting from the table, and then whacking the base casting with a rubber mallet to get it off.



The legs are bolted to the table, which was important, because together they would be too large to fit through the doorway to my basement.



So, it's apart and the parts are all down in my shop now ready for reassembly and then a new table. Stay tuned.

John

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Console table design assistance

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Looking for some design direction/assistance for a console/sofa table with an top-folding leaf looking to pair with industrial cast iron legs. The table will be approx 5'-6' long, and around 12" wide (expandable to ~2'). Table top is similar in function as in the link below, except only 1 leaf not 2. I like the idea of straight/telescoping supports, but not sure how to implement and still provide adequatesupport. Pivoting wing-arms would work, but unlike a traditional drop leaf table, they will be visible when the expansion leaf is stored on top.I am sure there is a way to disguise them, if there are no other options...Would/could drawer slides work?
Thoughts???
TIA
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/ny...21379.html

Brian

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cabinet door hinge question

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Hi All! I'm building a bathroom vanity that will fit tightly between two walls. The carcass is 3/4 ply and the doors will overlay the carcass but there will be no other face frame. My concern is whether my doors will open entirely. I know they will hit the wall at 90 degrees - and before that depending on the handle. I plan to use concealed hinges. Am I correct that if I use a partial overlay hinge I can get enough room to open these doors? If absolutely necessary I can put a little filler strip between the cabinet and the wall to allow more door swing, but I'd like to avoid or at the least minimize that as much as possible. I'd appreciate some real world advice. Thank you!

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Panel warpage

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Working on the set of kitchen cabinets.
Two sections they went with 1/4 sawn WO.
On the Island, they went with walnut.

I shop cut the veneer, sanded them to a hair more than 1/16"
I used Unibond 800 glue.
I used 7 ply 1/4" plywood as the core and of course veneered both sides.
I book matched the veneer.

The oak door panels came out great, nice and flat. With it being 1/4 sawn, that did not surprise me.
The walnut panels with highly figured front face veneer and just normal veneer on the back came out of the vacuum press looking good.
It did not take long before the walnut panels started to bow and warp.
In both the width and height the panels cup towards the figured face.

One set of panels approximately 17" wide cup enough that if you put a straight edge from side to side, there would be almost a 1/2" gap in the middle.
I tried to put a panel on a jig that bent the panel the opposite of the bow. Left the panel in there for 2 1/2 days.
When I removed it, it was flat for about 4 hours!

Some door panels are 18" wide and 28" high. They need to be flat!

First of all, I can not understand why this happened. Any speculation?
All I can come up with is I should have made the veneer maybe closer to 1/32" instead of the 1/16".
Should I have used MDF instead of plywood?

Second, any good ideas that would flatten the panels permanently?

Any information or help will be greatly appreciated!

Toney

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Made a table saw insert holder this weekend

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I used to store them on top of a cabinet in a space below a drawer, but sometimes they'd get pushed back and I'd have to fish them out. So I made this:

it is simply 2 pieces of scrap maple plywood, dadoed out on the inside and then sandwiched together. You'll notice that the dadoes chipped out some of the plywood when they exit the blade. Maybe I'll take it down and run those edges thru the TS to clean them up....someday. Or I could cap it with some scrap cherry laying around. But it isa shop fixture so there's that.

There's an extra slot in case I ever make an newer insert.

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Bob Flexner

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I was deeply saddened to learn that Bob Flexner, author of "Understanding Wood Finishing" and other books and videos, passed away on Dec. 29th, 2024.
I learned about it from the newspaper this morning. I live in Norman, Oklahoma, as did Bob, and the Norman Transcript had his obituary this morning. Here is a link:
https://obituaries.normantranscript.com/...1092531559
I had met Bob and knew him slightly. I don't remember exactly when we were introduced, but it was after his book came out. I think we were introduced by a mutual acquaintance.
When I met him, I was in charge of the Exhibits Construction Shop for the Sam Noble Museum of Natural History in Norman. One of my responsibilities was to design and build conservation-grade exhibit cases for the Museum, which was going to be moving into a new building. I had a lot of questions about finishes and finishing, and Bob helped answer them. He was always very free with his time and knowledge.
I would also see him around town occasionally. Bob was a lover of classical music, as am I, and we used to see each other at concerts in Norman, put on by the University of Oklahoma.
I was able to attend the International Woodworking Fair (IWF) in Atlanta on two occasions. Both times, Bob and I ran into each other. He joked about living in the same town, but having to go to IWF to see each other!
I've always appreciated Bob's books. He did a great service to the woodworking community by researching and de-mythologizing wood finishing.By explaining the why as well as the how of finishes and finishing techniques, he helped us understand finishing.
He will be greatly missed by the woodworking community and all who knew him.

Rick W

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Hickory Trestle Table

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Our pastor's wife has requested a Hickory Trestle Dinning Table; she likes the color of hickory. Finding hickory in our area is no problem...except for anything larger than 8/4.

I need a source for 5" x 5" and 4" x 4" hickory

or

a substitute for hickory that beams are available.

Yes, we are considering glue ups,but prefer solid beams.

I look forward to your suggestions.

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My New Year's Gloat

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Happy New Year. I hope you all have a healthy and happy 2025.

I haven't gone to bring it home yet, so I hope there are no disappointing surprises when I see it in the flesh, but I bought this Dewalt GA medium arm saw yesterday for $300.





3 HP, single phase. The crosscut capacity is over 24", which is why I wanted it. It is going to replace the big heavy tablesaw sled I now use for cutting wide parts. Of course, it will do all the other things RAS's are so good at. And with itsnearly 4-1/2" depth of cut it might replace my chopsaw for vertical miters.

John

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