The Woodshop Shed

Anyone ever oil, etc their wooden parallel clamps?

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I picked up a couple of wooden parallel clamps at a garage sale for $5.00 each. They are in pretty good shape, not worked too hard. One is a Jorgenson, and the other is a Dubuque (I grew up about 30 miles from there) anyway I used some simple green on the wood and rinsed them because they were very gritty/grimy. Thinking about giving them a coat of boiled linseed oil to replenish the wood. Has anyone done something like this or something different? I think it might help with glue sticking to them in the future also.

Thanks for the comments.

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Tea Box Lid

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(from WoodNet.net)


Hello all,

Found an old thread with similar topic but could not see a good resolution! I have made a tea box, just put the hinges on the other day and the front of the lid sits up quite a lot. When there are no hinges it sits flush. When there are hinges and no screws, it sits flush.What is going on here?! I can't seem to figure it out, obviously the screws are pulling the lid down at the back and making the front pop up. I am at a loss as to how to resolve this. I have attached some photos to show the gap etc.

Thanks,

Geoff
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Cut List Apps

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(from WoodNet.net)


Hey Guys it's been a while since I posted.

I'm looking to make some new Upper Kitchen Cabinets and was wondering what "cut list" apps that are current you may or may not be happy with.

Cheers!
Jim

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kitchen corner cabinet - my crazy way of making it

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(from WoodNet.net)


In this 5 minutevideo I reviewhow I make a corner cabinet for my kitchen. My kitchen, and also the one I had in my previous house, has some space constraints so in order to maximize the available storage space I employ atypical practices. Maybe not all the atypical, but I don't see this in other kitchens.
One negative commentor (there's always one) expressed criticism over how to face frame the cabinet and install doors. All I can say is that I've done this a few times before and it works just fine.
It's not much more work and I gain more storage space. It's not a ton of extra space, but every little bit helps.
Thought I would share this here. I welcome your reactions good and bad.

Corner kitchen cabinet design- how to

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How to build a 100+ year old window

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I have been asked by a friend to build some new windows for his 100+ year old house. He has about 5 that have rotted from the bottom up. I told him to bring me one and I will give it a test run. I was hoping maybe I could just trim the bottoms off and add on a new solid piece, but that is not going to work. They are going to need to be completely rebuilt. The stiles ran all the way from top to bottom which allowed them towick water up. And that rot has gone higher than the top of the bottom rail. Iam looking for some advice on wood type, adhesive type, joint type,and any other pitfalls I should be aware of.

They are pretty basic 4-piece wooden frames with a rabbet to hold the glass and then glazing compound over the glass to hold it in the rabbet. There are no divided lights.They are just single pane glass. It looks like on the two top corners that are still intact that it is assembled with what I think is called a bridle joint, but instead of a singe tongue fitting between two tongues, each piece has two offset tongues. Kind of like a box joint with only two tabs on each piece. I can take some pictures and add them here if it would be helpful.

I don't think I have to match any of the original construction techniques - just make them look the same as the original when I am done. So what wood, adhesive, and joinery would you use?

I have total boat high performance epoxy that I have used for inlay fills, but have never used it as an actual adhesive. I suspect something like that would be better than any of the normal wood glues.

I built John TenEyck's horizontal router mortiser and was thinking this would be a good application for that.

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