The Woodshop Shed

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Darren, please check your inbox for a message. Thanks.

John

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Veneered Card Table

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Daughter asked me if I could build her a pair of card tables similar to this. 37" x 37" topx 30" height


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The basic table is simple enough, but my experience in veneering is with hot hide glue on the apron of afederal card table.

I am planing on making the legs and aprons with maple. The tops willlikely be 3/4" baltic birch. Doing a quick look at burl online, I see that Woodcraft has 4 x 8 sheets of maple burl at over $1,300 a sheet, I am calculating that I will need two sheets. I will discuss other options with the daughter, but $ is really not too much of a concern. I think she was looking to spend upwards of$3k (or even more)each from an online source.

regardless of what type of veneer I end up using, is a vacuum press the best option? Will the Harbor Freight 2.5 cfm be enough?

What are some sources of veneer that I should look into?

This is my initial plan, so let me know if it sounds about right.
Mill the aprons at a 3" width and veneer the outer surfaces. Mill a rabbet at the top for the ply substrate to fit into, and miter the ends.Veneer the bottom of the plywood. Glue up the topsection, then veneer the top surface.

The legs will be done separately and I will have some sort of joinery to attach the legs to the top.

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Grain direction...cutting board.

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This may be an interesting question: Making a cutting board. I have some nice 3"x5/4 maple that I want to put a few Walnut strips in for accent. The walnut is 3/4", thus it would be easier if I put the walnut in with the grain orientation different than the maple. Thus, the walnut would be 3/4" strips x 5/4", rotating the walnut 90 degrees. Now...when the weather changes and the wood wants to move/ swell/shrink....Will the walnut rise above the maple because the grain is running north and south, not east/ west. Thoughts?

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Epoxy Question

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I used my CNC to make a small sign for my grandson...his name. Letters are just about 1/4" deep. He has 5 letters in his name and we mixed up 5 small batches of different colors to fill in the letters.
We did this on Sunday afternoon. Some (not all) of the letters are still tacky. So, I am assuming that I did not mix the two parts accurately and that is why some, but not all, are still not quite set.
The question is this: will it eventually fix itself with more time? Or is there another way to deal with this?

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Bullet Heater for barn workshop?

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Have you used a kerosene or propane heater in the workshop? Are they effective? How much ventilation do you give it?
I have a large area of my 40x50 barnto heat occasionally and while it is enclosed the sliding barn doors aredrafty and there'sa full ridge vent at the top.
So I'm wondering if I'm going to have enough ventilation. They recommended one person to have their garage door completely open while heating the garage.
Seems to me like if that's the case, thenI might as well just drop $20's in the street and let them blow away.

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What Gives???

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There seems to be a problem with photos on this forum. I tried to post photos a few days ago using the same procedure that has always been successful in the past- no go. Now it seems that photos that were once here, are now gone.

I sent a PM to the person who is identified as "Sysadim" two days ago and have yet to get a reply. Inquiring minds want to know.

Doug

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Alder & Maple burl jewelry box

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Well it has been seven years since I made my last box.
This is the first one of my getting back to making boxes again.
The body is Alder I believe and the trays, spline keys and top panel are all Maple burl.
The hinges and clasp are Brusso.
The finish is Watco drying oil and buffed out wax.
This was a tough challenge as a lot of what knew has been forgotten.

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What wood is this? (Pictures here now)

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I bought an entire 7" x 8' board of this manyyears ago from a woodworker who was moving and the moving company wouldn't haul any of his wood. I thought it was pretty, but have never built anything out of it.At the time he told me what it was but unfortunately I have forgotten. Any guesses what I have? The three pictures show the top side that is sanded fairly smooth, the bottom side has band saw marks from resawing it,and the third picture is the end grain. This sample cut from theboard is about 5/8" thick. I think the dark end is just some staining as that was the very end of the 8' board. I am almost positiveit is an exotic and not a domestic hardwood.I would say that the pictures make it look a little more golden than it really is and that it is a little more brownish in real life. It is much darker in its rough cut form and the yellows tend to show up more as the surface is sanded.It stinks when it is cut and it seems a little oily.


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Edit: John was kind enough to use his method to add my pictures. Please scroll down to see them. Thank you John.

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Which is more convenient to use, a reciprocating saw or an electric chain saw?

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Hey everyone,
I've been doing a few DIY and outdoor cutting projects recently, and I wanted to share some thoughts and hear yours on which tool is more convenient: the reciprocating saw or the electric chain saw.
From my experience, the Reciprocating saw stylesis super handy for quick, precise cuts especially when working in tight spaces, cutting PVC pipes, trimming branches, or doing demolition work. It's lightweight, easy to control, and doesn't need much setup.
On the other hand, the Electric chain saw styles is unbeatable for heavy-duty outdoor tasks cutting thick logs, pruning large trees, or handling firewood. It's faster for bulk cutting, but it's also heavier and requires more safety precautions.
So, I'd say:

• For indoor work and light cutting, go with a reciprocating saw compact, powerful, and easy to handle.
  
• For yard or large-scale jobs, an electric chain saw is your best bet.
  

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Dewalt jobsite table saw Outfeed table

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I have been working on a lift off type outfeed table for my Dewalt DWE7491RS. I thought I would post a couple pictures on my progress. I planning to route some grooves for a miter bar. So far so good.

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Pistol Rack Stands

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This is a weekend project I threw together as cheaply and quickly as possible before a big shooting competition and demonstration event. Bench space is always at a premium, so a few years ago I made some pistol racks to keep things corralled at large shoots:


Made it much easier to track what was where, and worked well when folks were only shooting pistols from the bays. But it didn't leave much real estate on the bench. Figured I needed to get them off the bench and on to something that wouldn't take up too much space in the bay.


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Entryway Wall Mirror

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I liked the mirror project in a recent FWW, and used that for inspiration for my version of it. The space I originally thought about putting it could not accommodate an 18" mirror, so I shrunk it to 14". As often is the case, however, I ended up putting it somewhere else, and it looks undersized, so I may need to add "something" to it to better fill the space.

The mirror frame is made from an 8-sided ring of cherry. The front face is beveled by 1/4" towards the center. I cut that bevel on my CNC, then laid a texturing toolpath on top of it to get that carved look. You can create nearly any pattern you can dream up by adjusting the toolpath parameters. I had the weather station instruments on another piece of wood and decided to use them with the new mirror frame. They are held in wood rings that are glued into pockets in the bottom section of the mirror frame.







The finish is GF's WB black stain on the black parts, and Arm-R-Seal satin on everything.

John

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Anyone ever oil, etc their wooden parallel clamps?

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I picked up a couple of wooden parallel clamps at a garage sale for $5.00 each. They are in pretty good shape, not worked too hard. One is a Jorgenson, and the other is a Dubuque (I grew up about 30 miles from there) anyway I used some simple green on the wood and rinsed them because they were very gritty/grimy. Thinking about giving them a coat of boiled linseed oil to replenish the wood. Has anyone done something like this or something different? I think it might help with glue sticking to them in the future also.

Thanks for the comments.

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Tea Box Lid

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Hello all,

Found an old thread with similar topic but could not see a good resolution! I have made a tea box, just put the hinges on the other day and the front of the lid sits up quite a lot. When there are no hinges it sits flush. When there are hinges and no screws, it sits flush.What is going on here?! I can't seem to figure it out, obviously the screws are pulling the lid down at the back and making the front pop up. I am at a loss as to how to resolve this. I have attached some photos to show the gap etc.

Thanks,

Geoff
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Cut List Apps

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Hey Guys it's been a while since I posted.

I'm looking to make some new Upper Kitchen Cabinets and was wondering what "cut list" apps that are current you may or may not be happy with.

Cheers!
Jim

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kitchen corner cabinet - my crazy way of making it

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In this 5 minutevideo I reviewhow I make a corner cabinet for my kitchen. My kitchen, and also the one I had in my previous house, has some space constraints so in order to maximize the available storage space I employ atypical practices. Maybe not all the atypical, but I don't see this in other kitchens.
One negative commentor (there's always one) expressed criticism over how to face frame the cabinet and install doors. All I can say is that I've done this a few times before and it works just fine.
It's not much more work and I gain more storage space. It's not a ton of extra space, but every little bit helps.
Thought I would share this here. I welcome your reactions good and bad.

Corner kitchen cabinet design- how to

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How to build a 100+ year old window

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I have been asked by a friend to build some new windows for his 100+ year old house. He has about 5 that have rotted from the bottom up. I told him to bring me one and I will give it a test run. I was hoping maybe I could just trim the bottoms off and add on a new solid piece, but that is not going to work. They are going to need to be completely rebuilt. The stiles ran all the way from top to bottom which allowed them towick water up. And that rot has gone higher than the top of the bottom rail. Iam looking for some advice on wood type, adhesive type, joint type,and any other pitfalls I should be aware of.

They are pretty basic 4-piece wooden frames with a rabbet to hold the glass and then glazing compound over the glass to hold it in the rabbet. There are no divided lights.They are just single pane glass. It looks like on the two top corners that are still intact that it is assembled with what I think is called a bridle joint, but instead of a singe tongue fitting between two tongues, each piece has two offset tongues. Kind of like a box joint with only two tabs on each piece. I can take some pictures and add them here if it would be helpful.

I don't think I have to match any of the original construction techniques - just make them look the same as the original when I am done. So what wood, adhesive, and joinery would you use?

I have total boat high performance epoxy that I have used for inlay fills, but have never used it as an actual adhesive. I suspect something like that would be better than any of the normal wood glues.

I built John TenEyck's horizontal router mortiser and was thinking this would be a good application for that.

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