The Woodshop Shed

Epoxy clean up

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Just finishing up my first epoxy river table. Not sure if I ever want to do another one! My question is how to final clean the top to prepare for the final finish of Rubio Monocoat. Obviously the "river" is down the center with walnut on the sides. I don't want to risk just wiping with water to avoid raising the grain of the adjacent wood. What should I use?
Thanks!
Paul

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Chisel mallet

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Looking for a good source for a Chisel mallet for dovetails

Thanks

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Question for long timers about hardware site that offered Woodnet Discount

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Question for those of you that go back a few years on this board.

Years ago there was a hardware store that offered a discount for WoodNet members, was trying to remember the name of the business. I am not worried so much about whether the discount still applies or not, just wanted to see if I could throw some business there way. They were always pretty helpful to members.

I think they were based up north.

Thanks in advance

Todd

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Planing Results with Variable Speed Drive Rollers

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)




Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Silicone mat for protecting table saw top.

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I recently bought an extra silicone mat to protect the workbench where I solder, and went bigger than I really needed for that space.

I was doing some glue ups and I frequently use my table saw as a flat reference surface. I really don't like cleaning glue off the saw, so I flopped the bigger soldering silicone down and really liked it.

now I am thinking about getting something even bigger in silicone so the glue doesn't stick to it.

You can get the silicone mats to protect the surface of outdoor griddles like the blackstone, I have one on the 24 inch restaurant griddle that I cook in my backyard on.

The problem with most of the griddle silicone mats that I have found, is they have sides that come up at a right angle from the surface.

So now I am off to look for a completely flat silicone mat to cover much of the table saw.

Duke

$27 for a 24 x36 mat on amazon, that should do the trick

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

H'ep with procedure

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


One of my winter projects will be to build two saddle-seatcounter-height stools, sorta like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Clas...9650&psc=1

Our counters are 36" high so I am thinking +/-28" height, seat dimensions 12"X16", splayed legs to maybe 14"X18". I have a ton of 5/4 prime straight-grained walnut that will be used, and I want to avoid the battleship-type construction used in most of my projects over 50+ years (no linebackers will ever sit on these!). M&T joints for stretchers and footrests. Maybe a 1/2" "saddle depth" across the width. Finish likely just Danish oil.Questions:

1) How would you fashion the "saddle" for this? My plan is to bandsaw out the general outline and then chisel/scrape/sand to finish-ready. I do not have any of the large-scale carving/shaping tools like a scorpbut have a foam-padPC ROS, a 6X48 belt sander, and a bench spindle sander. One thought is to make a sanding block from one of the bandsaw cutouts.

2) Would you taper the legs, likely to be about 1"X2" finish dimension?

Any other ideas or comments? TIA.

Gary

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Woodworking vice "pads"

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I picked up a couple woodworking vices at an estate sale this summer. Finally getting around to installing them. Previously I've used 3/4" "pine" to line the jaws. Do you use something like this or something harder, and is 3/4" a good thickness? By the way, my vice does occasionally get use for things that aren't woodworking.

Got any thoughts?

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

A box with a threaded top

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Just to learn how, I decided
to try threading on my 3 axis CNC. VCarve Pro has a toolpath for doing that, so
why not? First, however, you need to have a threadingbit. I bought this one:


It wasn't clear at first how to mill the
threads so that the tip diameter of one thread would mesh with the root diameter
of the other, allowing some slop factor. I think that would work had I milled
the threads to give a land on them, like an acme thread, but I made V-shaped
threads and for that to mesh I had to make the male thread one thread depth
larger before cutting the thread. I'm going to cut some threads with lands on
them to see if the logic is more straight forward. In any case, I was successful
and the threads mate very smoothly.




The box is about 4" OD, with a
UTS 1" thread I had to make the lid as two pieces, otherwise the threading bit
won't cut deep enough. The thread wasn't cut quite completely on the threaded
section, so it wouldn't fit down tight to the base, so I added the O-ring to
take up the slack. Still learning.

/>




class="mycode_font">Normally, the lid has a female thread and fits over the male
thread of the box. To do that, however, a back cut needs to be made below the
thread for clearance, again because the shape of the tool doesn't allow it
thread to the bottom of the recess. I managed to figure that out, too, but I
need a narrow T-shaped bit before making more.


And that kept my brain engaged
for a couple of days.

class="mycode_size">John

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

November Knife Project

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I didn't do this one as a buildalong, but thought I'd share the finished project.

The knife is a nice little skinner. Stainless Guard, with a Copper accent I shaped from a BarStock piece of copper. The pins in the Highly Figured walnut scales are from round stock Nickel Silver. I spent hours laying out and tooling the spine on this knife and tried a new technique for filling in the tooling. I bought some metallic tint which I used on the epoxy I used on the scales and the copper accent and filled in the tooling accents on the spine then sanded it all smooth. I sanded the scales to 1500 grit and they got seven coats of beeswax, after treatment with Watco Golden Oak Oil finish. That Golden Oak really made the grain in the walnut pop. First a look at the spine's details.



  45 spine details.jpg (Size: 451.95 KB / Downloads: 41)


Then a peek at the grain pattern in the belly of the beast.



  46 belly grain.jpg (Size: 461.8 KB / Downloads: 42)


I made a sheath for practice as I am trying to learn to use my Cowboy 3200 sewing machine. This thing can sew harness thickness leather. Miss T can knock stuff out on it left and right, but she is a quilter and has a half dozen high end machines in her hobby shop... all top quality. She answers my questions and shows me how to do "things" on my machine, bought to sew belts and holsters.


I'm getting there. This was tooled, dyed, antiqued, and waxed. Came out pretty good for a leather rookie.




  69 done.jpg (Size: 549.9 KB / Downloads: 42)


The knife itself? Yup, Miss T said it's looking good, so I'm good.




  60 sanded and polished.jpg (Size: 456.06 KB / Downloads: 42)


Like many of us, I look at the completed projects and see the small issues. I'm anal, a bit of a perfectionist. But... it makes me strive to improve on the next project. I guess that's not a bad thing, although it means I can't be satisfied in my work. LOL.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Looking for a wood filler

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I've always used Famowood in the little 6 oz cans. I liked it because it dried quickly, didn't shrink, and was easy to sand. What I didn't like was how it hardened in the can as the acetone evaporated. Aceton content may be why its a rarity and now its $12 for six oz. What's a good substitute? I don't like the grease pencils and not really fond of the oil-based putties. I've got a few nail 'shiners' I need to fix and some gaps between joints I want to erase. I want to be able to stain with water-base.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Walnut & resin charcuterie board

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Making a 9 x 16 inch charcuterie board from a black walnut cap left over from milling and Alumilite Deep pour resin.


Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first