The Woodshop Shed

3/5 of an inch forstner bit?

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(from WoodNet.net)


I found a forstner bit on amazon that was listed as 3/5 but it's actually a 15mm bit.

3/5 or 0.6 inches is closer to 15.24mm

Why you may ask do I want a 3/5 inch forstner bit.
I am making a copy of the base of a bentwood case for a singer sewing machine, and the hinges that they used were 0.6 inch or 3/5
And need couple holes in the back of the case that are right around 0.6 inch.

15mm is to small and 16mm is too big.

I did try to grind a 16mm steelbit down to 15.24 and it was enough that it took most of the teeth off the forstner bit.

I also have ordered a 16mm carbide bit, and am going to try grinding the carbide down a little bit to get to the 15.24 or 15.25mm diameter.

Anyone have any other suggestions on how to get a good flat bottomed hole other than the above?

Thanks in advance.

Duke

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Building cherry flat panel door

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(from WoodNet.net)


Building cherry flat panel door

9"x30" door, 3/4" thick

Would solid cherry stock be ok or would it twist?

Would it be better to use some kind of cherry veneered product?

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How do you lubricate your clamp threads if any?

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This summer I've found numerous 6-8" name brand C clamps in surface rust condition but very repairable. I use the regular methods to get rid of the rust, and usually paint the bodies. My question is do you apply anything to the threads to make them turn nicer? My college professor always said never use oil on woodworking equipment but use wax as it doesn't attract dust. Since I've been out of college for 40 years, I thought maybe the thinking has changed?

Anyone have any thoughts? I think oil will lubricate better, and it wouldn't be a big thing to remove a little dust once in a while.

Wax will probably get the job done also.

I just don't like the feeling of the friction of the screw, and lots of times I don't have enough hands anyway.

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Knife Display Case

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I have been making knives for a while now, but not for sale. I make them for myself, Miss Tina, or for friends and family. NOW, I am running out of things to do with them, and I don't sell them so they are piling up. Tina told me I need to make a display case and get them of the table in the entry area. Two concerns... a kid could pick one up and they are RAZOR sharp. Secondly, someone we don't know well could palm one on the way out the door. (Service Person of some sort..) There goes $350 to $1,000 retail value if I was selling them, out the door. Right now there are a dozen on that table.



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So, a couple months ago, I started thinking about the display case. HER suggestion was wall mounted, above the table. Move the picture and get rid of the lamp. I started designs, and tossed them. Started designs, and tossed them. Eventually, I settled on 48" wide, same width as the table... and 16" high. Then it was a matter of choosing the wood and the actual layout of the construction. I was shocked at the cost of the project. Wood, finished oak and birch at Home Depot has gotten dear. I searched through my woodpile and came up with some walnut. That meant it would go thru the planer and get Ripped to size then cut.



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Wax covered wood??

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I just picked up a stash of maple and some of it is covered in a clear wax. A lady posted it free- her brother milked it off his property but has since passed away. Some 8/4, some 4/4 and some are half round slabs.
How do I remove the wax?
I am going to use a beautiful half round to make a couple shelves for her in honor of her brother and to thank her for her generosity.

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3D Chessboard - progress picks

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Here is is so far.

BIG THANK YOU TO jteneyck for the sweet piece of mahogany that I used!!! The lighter wood is cedar.


I made the "strips" with some indexing blocks when I chopped them on my chop saw. There are 8 strips in all. You'll notice that as you move to the center of the board, the change in elevation slows down. I thought about this a while and decided to use cut up playing cards to change the height ever so slightly. 7 cards acting a a spacer did the trick. Thereafter the elevation changes dramatically, or back to it was. I built a few jigs to manage the glue up but for a few I didn't properly clamp the sections down the the jig, so there is a slight gap in a few that I'm shaving ever so slightly on the TS.

It is important that the line all line up so you might notice in the full 8x8 shot it looks like the 2nd from the top is a little proud. There will be some shaving/sanding that'll occur after the board is all glued up.

I'm thinking about gluing 2 strips at a time together then 4 then the final glue up. I'd rather not attempt the whole thing at once.

Also I've included the picture I'm working from. My table's elevation changes aren'tas dramatic as the original.

(I don't plan on turninng/building the chess pieces but never say never!!)

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I messed up

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Hey all, Question for you. I live in Illinois and when I started finishing off my basement years ago I planned on having a large section of it done in a Craftsman style wainscotting using Quarter Sawn White Oak Plywood and real 3/4 Inch QSWO boards. Problem is I miss calculated and Im short around 5 sheets of 1/2" mdf core QSWO sheets. I originally source my sheets from the hardwood connection in Sycamore IL but they are now closed. Is there another site near by that I can source this? Thanks for any help. I googled but options are limited and wondered if anyone knew a place that was good.

Any Help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Glen

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Asheville woodworkers

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Hi All,

As you knowHurricane Helene devastated the southeast.Asheville, NC was especially hard hit. It's a thriving arts and crafts community withmany woodworkers and manyfriends of ours. As a way of helping out I've been urging everyone to consider a donation tohttps://cerfplus.org/. CERF+ supports craft artists who have had their livelihoods threatened or destroyed by disasters. And if you've been impacted by such a calamity, reach out to CERF+ for help. They're there for you.

Thanks. Stay safe.

Ron

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Decided to finish it

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I have been procrastinatingcuttingthe dovetails for the end cap that holds the screw for the wagon vise. So I finally got on the stick and did it. The first photo is routing out the two different slots for the wagon vise. Then the nut from a shoulder vise screw purchased from Lee Valley morticed in to the end cap. The actual block will be screwed to the trapped that slides in the grooves. The piece goes in cross grain to with stand the pressure put on bythe screw,It has to have enough clearance so the block will slide but not have any extra room so it will not rockin the groove. I put coat of finish on everything. Iwill do at least anothercoat and then past wax so it slides easily. You can see the amount of travel the block will have


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Next I started fitting the nut for the wooden screw for the leg vise. I have the block fitted and held in place with lag screws bit took it off to put finish the fresh cut ends. Things stay better when all parts have finish on then. Finish helps control wood movement because of humidity. I said helps control, notstop wood movement.


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North Central Indiana Free Wood.

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Today I was going through my wood stash and culled quite a bit of walnut.
This was cut 50+ years ago.
All of it is on the burn pile but I was thinking that there is still useful wood if one needs smaller box building pieces.

If anyone is close and wants it - come get what you want.

I would love it if someone could get some good out of it.

Toney

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