The Woodshop Shed

Any comments on the Popes casket?

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Watching various "news" reports, there was numerous mentions of a "simple wooden casket". Maybe that is how they describe it, but it wasn't ornate, but I didn't think it looked "simple". Multiple angles with interlocking joints, I could see a lot of craftsmanship in it. Some people didn't get credit for a beautiful piece of woodworking.

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Thank you "Gary G" and "fredhargis"

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Back ground: Several days ago, I asked for suggestions on wood filler for hickory.

Many times, it is annoying when someone posts a question, and the responses do not answer the question. I had a serious question. No one told me what I wanted to hear!!!!

Thank you "Gary G" and "fredhargis" for giving me the right answers even though they were the very last thing I wanted to hear. (For those who don't remember...the answer was dutchman.)

WOODNET is such an amazing place, I fail to understand the loss of popularity. Thanks to WOODNET and the honest answers of many, I truly enjoy woodworking.

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My Simple CNC Vacuum Table

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Not much enthusiasm here for CNC stuff, but I'll kill a few electrons anyway to show the few who do have an interest with the vacuum table prototype I made.



It's 20 x 30 inches, and made for cheap plywood. The grid pattern is 1 x 1", 3/16" deep. The foam tape is just 1/4 x 1/4" weather stripping.The hole is the port for my Fein shopvac. It's amazing how much holding force this thing generates. I absolutely cannot move a piece of stock that covers the top. That might give those doing router, carving, etc work an idea on how they might hold their projects for unfettered access.

The gasket is what seals the workpiece to the table. For smaller work pieces, you install a gasket such that the workpiece covers the gasketed area.



This 10 x 10" piece also is held so tightly that I can't move it. My Fein vacuum generates about 3 psi of pressure, which means 300 lbs of force on that 10 x 10" area. No wonder I can't move it.



There is a size, however, where the surface area is so small that the holding force won't be enough to resist the cutting forces of the CNC bit. For those parts, I'll have to use my prior methods of clamps or tape and CA glue. I'm going to use this for awhile to see how well it fits my needs. If it works as well as I hope, I'll make one, or two or three that sit side by side, to cover the entire top of my CNC.

John

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Hickory Wood Filler

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"If it were not for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all." A brand-new flush trim bit lost about a fourth of the carbide, a pattern slipped, tear-out, and the list goes on. I've only used "stainable" filler before.

The hickory dining table will not be stained; what wood filler do you recommend?

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Can anybody recommend a good straight edge

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I find that I need something to break down plywood stock. Is there any type of track that is 8 ft long which I could use with my circular saw.

I have been using an 8 ft long piece of Hardie board because it is the only thing I have that has a good straight edge. Is there any thing better? I've seen some KREG stuff but it was shorter than 8 ft and it seemed expensive For what it was.

Thanks

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computer drawing programs

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I am looking for a SIMPLE furniture design computer program. A free2D program would be great.

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Latest Project - Small TV Console

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I just finished this small TV console for my daughter (she needed/asked for it for her apartment).

Dimensions: 53L x 15D x 24H
Case, Base and Top: Afromosia
Door and End Panels: Black Limba

The case work was a bit trickier that I had anticipated - but got thru it. Also, took a bit of tweaking to get the sliding doors just right - not too loose; but not too tight (they needed to slide with ease, but not like a race track!). I also incorporated a floating top for the piece which I folded back on itself (i.e., bookmatched) from 8/4 stock. I have really come to like working with Afromosia - some call it the poor man's Teak (although it isn't that inexpensive - but clearly not a pricey as Teak). Easy to work with, very stable and finishes nicely. The Black Limba panels add a little character.

Now I just have to figure out how to get the dang thing to NY! (I live in the SF Bay Area).


  mem tv console 00r.JPG (Size: 293.17 KB / Downloads: 160)


  mem tv console 01r.JPG (Size: 295.82 KB / Downloads: 160)


  mem tv console 02r.JPG (Size: 305.97 KB / Downloads: 160)


  mem tv console 04r.JPG (Size: 286.8 KB / Downloads: 160)

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Making a Michigan wall hanging

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Turning this 11 x 10 in piece of Red Cedar into a Michigan inspired wall hanging. The state and text were cut out on the FoxAlien 4040 XE-PRO. After a coat of sanding sealer so the end grain wouldn't absorb any resin or color, black Alumilite resin was poured into the cutouts with some white swirled through. After sanding from 80-1000 grit, the piece was finished with spray lacquer.

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Shipping Furniture

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This is not strictly speaking a woodworking question and perhaps some of you that build furniture as a business might be able to help. I am building a small console for my daughter. She is in New York - I am in the SF bay area. Any thoughts on how to cost effectively ship a single piece of furniture? It is about 53l x 24h x 18d. I recognize that your basic moving co. could handle but I suspect that would be quite expensive. Thanks

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diamond sharpening plate question

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I recently purchased a diamond sharpening plate along with some "honing fluid". I apply a little fluid, sharpen tool, then what? Should I rinse off the plate (if so with what)? I watched some videos online but nobody that I saw addressed what to do after.

Thanks for your help.

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Large Inlays - not easy even with a CNC

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I made some inlayed boards for a person where the inlay is fairly large. That brought up some problems that aren't an issue with small inlays. The large flat area under the bulk of the inlay will prevent the edges from seating properly if there's too much glue, but too little glue results in unbonded areas that sound hollow when tapped.

To make these, you create a male and a female part. The perimeters are cut with a V-bit; I used a 90 degree bit which gives edges at 45 degrees. Since my customer wanted theboard to have the grain running at 25, I had to make a blank that had almost twice the area of the 12" square final board.





After the parts are glued together, and allowed to dry long enough that it doesn't warp when you remove the clamps, the extra part of the male piece is sliced or planed off and then machined flush with the background. If the board warps (much at all) it is very hard to do that w/o removing too much material in some areas. When that happens, gaps start to appear along the joints even though the two pieces should mate perfectly over their entire mating surface.There are lots of ways to fail at this, and I found a lot of them.

Anyway, these are what I ended up with. Not perfect, but pretty close. Two are cherry and maple, the other sapele and beech. Funny how the whale of the sapele/beech board looks larger than those from cherry/maple.



John

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Lie-Nielsen Toolworks video by Portland, Maine TV show

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This segment ran recently on the nightly news magazine show "207" where they often showcase a Maine small business. Reading through the comments it is evident a lot of folks are in love with their LN tools.

https://youtu.be/uBVdgMMPgZU?si=tQi9RClzrmnJNMox

My LN story:I have an early low angle jack that has been my go to for 15ish years. Some time ago I realized the sole wasn't flat so I drove up to Waldoboro (living in Maine has it's benefits)and spoke with one of the experts there. Heoffered to "square it up" if I could be without it for a few days, of course I agreed. A week or so later the plane was returned via UPS, sole ground flat and sides ground 90* to the sole. No charge. You just gotta love that company.

Gary

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Hinge install help

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So I'm working on building a campaign style folding desk (specifically the one from Chris Schwarz's book). For anyone unaware of the basic design, imaging a basic table (four legs and aprons). The front two legs are attached to the front apron with typical M&T joints. Same with the back two legs and rear apron. The side aprons are actually four pieces (two on each side), with various hinges to allow the side aprons to fold in, which allows the base to collapse (making it easier for travel).

I'm having ...issues... with the hinges. Specifically with screws breaking when trying to install the hinges. Brass hinges with brass screws (both from Lee Valley, so quality should be good). I know brass is a bit more of a delicate metal, and I broke one screw when doing a test joint. So I decided to run to the hardware store and buy some wood screws from there (same thread pattern), figuring that I could drill the pilot hole, use one of these screws, then back it out and use the brass one as the final (figuring this would put less stress on the weaker screw). This has been a disaster. I've broken three of the screws (out of 6 for the first hinge). One of the three broke far enough down that I was effectively able to drill it out. The other two are stuck.

I think part of the problem is that I went with longer screws than called for (1.5" instead of 1"), figure this would hold better, and the screws end up being structural (two of the hinges are in end grain, including the first one I've been trying). The wood is soft maple, and I'm actually using larger than typically what one would use for a pilot hole. (I initially tried a smaller pilot hole (3/32), and when the first screw sheared I increased the size of the pilot hole. I'm up to 1/8" and still having this issue).

Any suggestions? I'm about at the point where this is going to just be a desk instead of a folding desk (I've got some extra lumbar left over and could just cut out two aprons and attach them to the side via dominoes). I could use that extra lumbar to remake the two aprons that have screws stuck in them so far, but that is an involved process and also includes roping in a friend to help (which I would prefer not to do). I'm also not sure how much my daughter cares about the folding feature (going to ask her later today).

But this still doesn't stop the problem I'm having of shearing screws off when installing hinges. I've had this happen before. Any suggestions? Better wood screw to use as the first/lead screw before using brass? (I'm sure the one I got from the hardware store isn't the best quality). What else? I'm driving the screws with a screwdriver and pausing every once in a while to allow heat to dissipate.

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How do you like your Dewalt 735

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Anybody got a Dewalt 735 planer. If so, how do you like it?

Thanks

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Wood Glue on Endgrain

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Last week Iasked about glue on Endgrain. Following your advice, I used screws, also Liquid Nails. Here is how the project turned out.

  IMG_0888.jpeg (Size: 217.71 KB / Downloads: 27)

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Thomas Moser

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Some sad news:

https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/news/...nT4y35EYFw

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Shutters Build Along

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I'm making some simple frame and panel shutters to replace ones that rotted in only 5 years. Very disappointing; I'll never use white pine for something like this again. White pine used to last for decades but apparently this ain't your grandfather's white pine anymore. I'm using Utile/Sipo this time. Many of its properties are on par with mahogany, and the price is right at about half the cost. I bought three nice 5/4 boards, more than plenty for the 4 shutters I need to make. I'm using AZEK for the panels; one sheet of 3/8" will cover those needs.



Sipo planes easily, but can sometimes tear out the same as mahogany due to the interlocked grain.

I got all the stock planed and cut to width, then cut common parts to length on my RAS that has a length stop system on the bench the saw is mounted to. This was the first RAS I bought, about 40 years ago. I wouldn't want to be without it.


I plowed 3/8" deep dados in all the parts for the panels, and then cutstub tenonson the ends of the rails to fit into those dados, using my RAS with a dado stack and stop block.



I cut mortises for the loose tenons on my horizontal router table, in both the ends of the rails andmating ones in the stiles.



With the joinery complete, I test fit a frame together.



Time to make the panels to fit. More to follow.

John

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One, two, and done!

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Of all the stuff built over 50+ years, I had never tackled chairs. So awhile ago I started out to build two light-weight onesfor a dinette set. I had some things in mind: (1) For the first time ever I would just "wing it" instead of first drawing up every piece and joint, often full scale; (2) try to build them with the tools, jigs and machines on hand and not buy anything;(3) use no hardware; and (4) use only various cutoffs instead of full boards from my stash of prime walnut lumber. Joints would be M&T using T88 glue.

Sorry I am not good at the build-alongs like some on here, and also not good at photography in any case. Here is the clamp-up for one of the backs:

  Chair glue-up clamps.jpg (Size: 76.9 KB / Downloads: 105)

and a dry fit:


  Chair Dry Fit.jpg (Size: 82.52 KB / Downloads: 106)
Which is when I discovered two mortices off by about an eighth of an inch. So fill and recut - tenon shoulders masked the boo-boo.

Final product, finished with Medium Walnut Watco oil:

  Chairs Final.jpg (Size: 115.28 KB / Downloads: 105)

I decided to just makeslatted flat seats and use a bolstered chair pad. And I did use small brads to attach the seat slats "just 'til the glue dries".

And that is the last time I will ever just "wing it".


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