The Woodshop Shed

Rockler Drop Leaf Hinges

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Hello All,

Is there anything special about the Rockler Drop Leaf hinges? Do the big box stores have an equivalent?

Thanks, Bill

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Honey locust & resin end table

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My first attempt at making an end table. Honey locust I milled from a large tree branch I trimmed in my yard 2 summers ago and a river edge of Alumilite Deep Pour resin. The frame was something I welded up for this project. The tabletop measures 31.5 x 9 inch

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Hinge question.

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I am making some cabinets and we are using Blum hinges with the 35mm pockets.

What is the minimum door frame width that you use? In the past, I used 1 7/8 for the width. They want the frame as thin as possible.
Some doors will have glass so I believe that complicates using a thinner door frame.

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WodNet, Glad you're back

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I was getting worried.

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Making Wheels in 1918

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I never guessed there were this many steps in making a car wheel - btw, no one loses a hand in this film, but Icringed a few times when saw how close the workers hands got to some pretty dangerous operations.OSHA would not have been happy. https://youtu.be/yqGA92D7B6g

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Undermount, Bottom Mount Drawer Slides

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Does such a thing exist? I'm looking to place a drawer into a cabinet. I'd like to not lose an inch in width, and go with undermount slides.

Do they make a drawer slide that will mount on the bottom of the drawer and on the bottom of the cabinet? It would be a little easier than putting in some extra boards to mount the slide brackets to.

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Record Vise

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I'm rebuilding my woodworking workbench, and in the process replacing the old face vise with a Record 52 1/2 model (9" wide cast iron face.) The old vise failed.In the photo below, I've mortised the faceplate into the wooden face block about 3/16" deep. These Record vises have a canted angle to the face, built in. It equates to about a1/8" gap at the bottom of the wooden faceplate with the vise just resting on the wooden faceplate (maybe 1 1/2 to 2 degrees.)

When bolted to the wooden faceplate, the faceplate assembly will not fit flat againstthe edge of the workbench top due to the angle. I've read discussions online about this issue and it seems the theory is that the top of the clamp will be tighter and prevent the work piece from moving. I've always liked vise faces to be perfectly (as much as possible) parallel with each other.

I can probably taper the mortise and get it close to parallel. What are your thoughts?

Thanks,

Doug


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I need a woodworker in Overland Park

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I'm going to needing someone to rip a 4X8 sheet of plywood into 6 pieces at 4" each.
Of course I'm willing to pay.

Jim

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Small Shop

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Last year I sold almost everything and now I'm having sellers remorse. We moved to an adult apartment complex.I only have an oversized garagethat I have to share with my car. I'm open for suggestions as to what I can make with limited space and downsized tools. I my love was making furniture but that's not very realistic now.

I now live in Overland Park, Ks. Any groupies in the KC area?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jim

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How do I make a wooden blade for a knife?

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I want to make a wooden knife for the wife. That means I have to figure out how to put a nice angle on the 'blade' section. How would I taper from 1/8" thick at the top edge to the final thin angle at the cutting edge? Not handle to tip, but the width of the blade. It needs to be consistent and same on both sides of the blade. AND...I have to leave enough without an angle for the layered handle. From the front it's a steep triangle....Anyone think of a jig I could make to assure that both sides of the blade are the same angle?

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Thoughts on a Morris Chair refurbishment

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I was able to pick up this "vintage" morris chair from a neighbor who claimed the repair was out of their skill level. I have some thoughts about how best to make the repair, but I also wanted to see if I could determine it's style, vintage, and possible future worth to help determine the level of effort and how I repair the leg.

I've searched the internet ad nauseum to try to find a similar style but haven't found anything. A couple distinctive details on this particular chair I haven't seen online are 1) the seat and backrest are single removable pieces, i.e., the structure/frame and cushions are integral, not separate like most chairs; and 2) the elevation control is actually cut into the back legs vs having a metal hardware for the support rod to rest within.


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A couple questions for the group:

1) Does anyone know this particular style and/or age? I'm guessing it's either a department store version that was mass produced, or a one off homemade version. particularly with the dowel construction of the leg joints.
2) Based on a possibly unknown age, and the difficulty of replacing the front leg without taking the whole chair apart, I'm considering simply drilling through the dowel holes on the front leg, cutting off those dowels from the side piece and driving new dowels in once the leg is attached to the front board. Possibly plugging with a different wood as a design element, or trying to blend it in to be unseen. If I make it a design, I'd also mimic it on the other leg for symmetry. Thoughts?
3) Other advice on fixing the leg joint? I've already cleaned out the broken wood from the dowels.

Thanks
Kevin

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