The Woodshop Shed

Frame(ed)

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Special request for a frame to hold a old Stained glass that was a bit of a challenge, size, weight and lead frame posed some problems. Made out of some scrap wood, think it is Maple? Because of the weight decided to put 3/4” Oak dowels through the corners and since it is going into a Sun room gave it a few coats of Spar Varnish!
Posted just for you BB1 :)

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Festool LR32 Panel Drilling Jig

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


In preparation for building some cabinets for the basement reno project, I've been making some jigs for using the Festool rails. (Parallel guides and a right-angle guide) This time, it's a jig for using the LR32 system for boring the holes in the cabinet sides.I purchased the LR32 rail and router sled specifically for this basement project, so it's all new to me. As soon as I started watching videos on how to use the system, I knew that I needed to work out a way to eliminate the need for the Festool setup guides. They just seemed too fiddly, time-consuming, and prone to error. I plan on using the LR32 to drill drawer slide holes, shelf pin holes, and hinge cup and hinge baseplate holes. I identified 6 different setup distances that would be needed. That's just crying out for a jig.I spent probably an hour pondering different ways to do this, and I think I came up with a decent solution. While this one is purpose-built for 672mm cabinet sides (desk-height base cabinets), the jig could be re-worked to be adjustable. I'll leave that for another time.The jig is a frame with a stationary edge stop (horizontal along the bottom of photo) that registers the front edge of the panel to be drilled. The key to the jig is a pair of matching index strips that have holes for indexing pins that attach to the rails. The inter-hole spacing on the index strips corresponds to the desired distance between drilled holes in the panel (from front to back). The strips are screwed to the frame and provide low stops for the top and bottom edges of the side panel that will sit between them.The fixed stop has two semi-circle cutouts that allow the Festool setup guides to be used for a one-time calibration for the front-to-back position of the index strips.
On the rail rides a pair of index pins that extend down to register into the holes in the index strips. The index pins are made from a 16mm diameter acetal copolymer rod I bought for a different project but never used. It was a larger diameter than I really needed, but it's what I had on hand.
Here, the index pin is shown in the index hole that corresponds to the 37mm position, with the Festool setup bars also in the 37mm position. The 6mm thick index strip is low enough that the Festool rail stops can still drop down over the top and bottom of the panel.
Because the 37mm position and 23mm position (for hinge cup drilling in the doors) were so close and the index pins so large, I had to make a bump-out for the 23mm position. In hindsight, this was a good thing because it means that I won't accidentally use that set of holes when drilling the cabinet side panels.
At the back end of the jig is a floating stop that is exactly panel height, and it rides between the index strips. It acts as a support for the rail when drilling the far set of holes (the rear shelf-pin holes) and also as a clamping caul to keep the panel tight against the front stationary stop using the cam clamp. Because it's the same height as the side panels, the Festool rail stops drop over it and keep the rail centered for the rearmost shelf-pin holes. (I don't have plywood for the panels yet, so here I have a scrap that's roughly the correct panel depth.)
Dummy panel clamped in place with the rail positioned for the rear shelf-pin holes.
I did use the CNC for some of the parts, but with careful execution, this jig could be built with other tools and be just as accurate. I've tested it with some scrap and am happy with the results. I think I've got everything lined-up to start building cabinets. Time to buy some plywood!

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Handplanes for Beginners

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Once you understand the anatomy of a handplane, you'll be well on your way to using it with success. [View the full-size exploded view of a handplane here] Handplanes are the king of woodworking tools in that they are …Source

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Bichon Puppy Cremation Urn

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Hi:Today I completed the third in a series of three 'Puppy Cremation Urns for our family.There are 6 puppies between three families, and though all puppies are currently living, three are getting really old. Thus the desire to prepare for their eventual demise and loss to our families by building cremation urns in advance.This urn is for Apollo and Luna, both Bichon's, one apricot colored and the other snow white. They received their names in memory of the Apollo Space program and the first landing on the moon. My son's family are Nasa Nuts, so what else could we expect them to name their puppies. I'm surprise their children don't also have names like this :-)The box is made from 5/8 red oak with box-joints mitred at the corners. The lid is 1 hard maple which was 'domed' to allow more surface area for the portrait. The sides of the domed lid were mitred to add a bit of interest to the shape.Both the lettering on the sides of the box and the portrait on the lid are incised, then painted black. A partition was included in the box, and magnets added to help keep the lid in place, but with the contents still accessible.I had a lot of fun carving the portrait and am pleased that it is an excellent portrait of Luna, the white Bichon. I was also pleased with how crisp the image appears.Enjoy :-)

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Wood Finishing Basics

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Understand the fundamentals. A wood finish is a clear, transparent coating applied to wood to protect it from moisture and to make it look richer and deeper. This differs from paint, which is a wood finish loaded with enough pigment …Source

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