The Woodshop Shed

Hiding painted plywood butt jointed seams

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So I volunteered to make my daughter abuilt in for thier family room. She lives about three hours away, so I'll fabricate at home and bring the components to her house.Everythingwill be painted.

The configuration is thatshe has a largerecessed alcove about 12' long, 8' high and 24" deep. There will be a bottom row of cabinets the entire length and 3' wideshelving units on each end. The upper center section will have the TV.

I've done a couple kitchenprojects, so I'm finewith making the base cabs and shelving units. My question is about the countertop which will be about 16" deep, butthe 12' length has me a bit perplexed. Fabricating a solid top would be difficult for several reasons (small shop, 13" planer, no way to haul a 12' top), so I was thinking fabricating the top from plywood in two or three sections.I'll need to assemble thetop on site, add wood edging tothe front,then prime andpaint it.

We want a uniform, solid looking top.Are there techniques to hide the seams in the butted ply and edgebanding so they don't telegraph when built and in the future? What type of glue? Should I depress/chamfer the joints and fill?Or other suggestions?

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I finished my bar

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I've posted about this more than a few times, asking frequent questions and posting some updates on progress. Here it is all finished and decorated, with the only missing item being my dartboard and light just to the left of the bar.

I added a shot of the detail on the front. After building the stud wall and installing the "backsplash," I put the top on and screwed it in from underneath. Despite being cantilevered, it was quite solid. Anyway, the stud wall got 5mm flooring underlayment, and then I used milled 2x6s (planed to 1.25") to provide spacing for the stone siding and space for the trim. This was because I was using stone siding that I already had, and given its price (about $15 per square foot) I didn't want to spend freely on it. But I had just enough to fill in this spacing in this space. I milled the 2x6s to match the thickness of the siding. This way they would overlap without a gap.

Anyhow, I used 8/4 sapele to make a large base molding. These were attached with screws to the facing studs (2x6), themselves attached to the stud wall (2x4), which were in turn fastened to both the cabinets and Tapconned into the concrete slab. So they aren't going anywhere. The vertical trim is 4/4 sapele. All profiles down there are just rounded. I used 1/2" walnut buttons to cover the screw holes. I thought briefly about exposed screws, but I couldn't find anything suitable. Technically, the stainless screws on the iron shelf brackets are exposed, and those are longer screws to attach to the studs underneath (these are dual purpose, fastening the trim as well).

There is another shot of the end of the bar, prior to me changing the pendant shades and the bulbs (too bright and blue). I milled a piece of sapele down to 1/2", letting me still have some overhang from the bar top and not awkwardly overlapping the roundover from the countertop. It covers the exposed stud wall and mates with the vertical trim on the front, and butts up against the cabinet side. Above the countertop, it's 1/2" wider to cover the end of the plywood backsplash. It looks good, minus the brad nails (I had no real way to fasten it otherwise). It's fine, I just dislike having exposed fasteners.

I might add a stereo. I do have one that I intended to use (just mount in the wall with some speakers in the ceiling). I wasn't sure if it was necessary, but I just had my mom down for Mother's Day and when I said "let's go chat at the bar" the first she asked was whether there was music. So maybe I do. She also said the lights are too low. I debated this and I am not sure. There are threaded extensions and I can easily shorten them. But it's not that different from the kitchen upstairs, and I didn't find them distracting when we were sitting there talking.

On to the next project, whatever that is.

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Shot myself

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Putting together some planter boxes using 18ga nails and had a 'I probably shouldn't do that' moment... but did it anyway.


Only enough brad to break the skin, but it was right on the fleshy part of the side of my hand at the base of the thumb... and the force of the nailer packs a powerful punch against that bone.


Hurts like the dickens, but everything moves as it should so I'll hold the wife back for a couple days before I go get a picture taken.

Be careful out there!

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