The Woodshop Shed

Starting over... small hybrid shop must haves?

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(from WoodNet.net)


Hey all, formerly very active member crawling back out of the dust and cobwebs to hopefully be around a bit more. We've had some crazy life stuff including adding a kid to our lives, my spouse getting very sick but making it through, moving houses to one with no good shop area, changing jobs 2-3 times... it's been a crazy 6 years not even counting this whole pandemic thing thrown in there for good measure.

My tools have all been mothballed all this time, but if all goes to plan I'm about to join some friends in a shared studio space where I'll get a small corner to call my own and set back up a woodworking space. They do other types of arts (a jeweler and a general crafter), so I'll need to be very good about dust management; a strong point in the pro column for going mostly hand tools.
It'll be maybe 150-200 sq ft of dedicated space out of a 600 sq ft studio so not a ton to work with given needing lumber storage in there too, but nice tall 11' ceilings, so I can go vertical for storage. I'm thinking it should be plenty to setup a small hybrid space to do some furniture building and keep me sane. Maybe I can finally finish that Maloof style rocker that's in pieces in my shed too...


So if you were doing a small hybrid shop setup prioritizing lower dust and noise levels, what would be your required larger tailed tools?
Assumptions:

• My hand tool collection is ample, and I know how to use a jointer plane.
  
• Not counting things that can go in drawers like routers or orbital sanders.
  
• Dust collection/vacuums are a given and will be added on as needed.
  
• Buying mostly S2S/S3S wood, or planing rough wood down in my yard/driveway (or having someone else do it locally) before taking to the studio.
  

• Workbench. Duh.
  
• Bandsaw (I have a Rikon 14" Deluxe)
  
• Miter Saw or RAS
  
• Drill Press
  
• Track Saw + dust extractor
  

• Lathe (possibly up to key? depends on projects. Good dust collection will be a PITA.)
  
• Oscillating spindle/belt sander
  
• Scroll Saw
  
• Jointer
  
• Planer
  
• Table Saw (though maybe on wheels with a plywood topper and use it as a multi-function table in the middle of the space?)
  

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Swapping Out Kitchen Drawer Cabinets

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My kitchen cabinets have these old style slides, and they're all a bit hincky:


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If I want to replace them with Accurides, I assume I'll need to add a piece of ply from the front to back to affix the slide?
What's the best way to position the slide on the drawer and frame to get the drawer front to line up correctly? The drawer front is the front piece of the box -- not a separate piece screwed in place.
Maybe it's not as daunting as I think, but I'm guessing I'd get it off by 1/4" or so, and the drawer wont fit.

Would it be easier to just build new drawers?

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I'd rather buy it...

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...than make the 'butcher block' top for this little kitchen work table Jean wanted. I bought some countertop from IKEA 20 years ago that was beech and reasonably affordable. Don't see the beech anymore, and I'd be in for well over $300 for the two pieces of bamboo mock up I'd need... and I'd still have to cut and work it. So off the lumberyard I go for some beech or birch or maple... which ever is cheapest today. And a couple bottles of Titebond Ultimate. Figure I'll be all in from prolly $150 and a few hours of retiree time.



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Posting Photos With an iPhone?

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Sorry if this is the wrong place for this question, but is is possible to post a photo from an iPhone? I've tried a bunch of times, but can't seem to do it.
If it is, I'd love a quick tutorial.

Thanks in advance.

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A Wedding Present

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I made this end grain cutting board and stand for my niece's wedding next weekend. It took a LOT longer than I expected to do the inlays, so it's a good thing I started early. No matter what I did the male portion for the lettering kept breaking out. I tried ebony, then bloodwood, I tried different speeds. Nothing worked. So I finally gave up and poured colored epoxy into those recesses. The Celtic marriage knot came out great with a bloodwood inlay, however.

The board is end grain walnut that I had to dye to mask the ugly sapwood. The field of the insert is quarter sawn beech, which is beautiful stuff to work with on the CNC. The stand is 5/8" Baltic birch that snaps together, so it can be broken down for storage or shipping.






John

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Want to buy a mini table saw

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I'm thinking of buying a mini table saw. Something with a table size of 9"x 12" would be fine. I plan to use it on craft projects that use wood that is only 1/2" thick. If you have one in mind please let me know. Thanks.

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Attaching Table Top

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I am trying to finish up a small bed side table for my wife. The size is 16" x 21". I'm curious what methods you have used to attach the top to the base? Especially interested if you have tried different methods and what you finally settled on.


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Still have to trim the top, add edge beading and string the drawers.

Lonnie

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Have you ever been defeated by wood movement?

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A year and a half ago my neighbors (friends of mine) asked for a dining table in cherry. They didn't want anything fancy - just a simple design, roughly 4' square. I did edge-glued 6/4 panels on top with breadboard ends. The wood was dry (7%) and everything was perfect when it left the house. The humidity in my house is fairly constant for what it's worth. It went literally one mile up the road to their house, where it expanded apparently more than the figure 8 fasteners could take. The breadboard ends are much narrower, and the top is slightly warped on one end (having broken the loose tenon, perhaps). They don't care and have been using it daily, but it bothers me every single time I'm there.

I allowed for something like 3/8" of expansion. I thought cherry was pretty stable. I have done breadboard ends in walnut (just fine, never really moved in NJ) and in sapele here (might move about 1/32" or less over the year). I am still surprised that their house is that much more humid than mine. It's entirely possible they left it wet or something, but I still find it extremely frustrating.

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How would you lay out these curves?

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Here's the table my wife wants me to build for her...it's only taken a decade to get her to choose one!

I've already figured out the joinery connecting the semi-circles to the leg assemblies--floating tenons with drawbores for the clamping forces. The semi-circles aren't load bearing, so the grain orientation isn't likely to cause any real troubles, but I'm thinking that each semi-circle should instead be made from three sections, which will allow the grain to flow a little better around the curves. Final shape would be cut with template routing after gluing up the sections.

What do you think?

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How would you "divide" these feet?

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I cut these legs on the bandsaw. Small piece was a test; it's four individual cabriole legs tapeed together to make a pedestal leg.

Recipient loves the overall look but doesn't like the hollow interior, so I instead made each leg from one solid blank.

Now I need help figuring out how to "divide" each foot into four, to look more like the test piece. Gotany suggestions? I have a Dremel, but I imagine that will take forever, even with a carbide grinding bit. If that's the best way, I'll tackle it, though.

Your thoughts?

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New shop moving along

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After several years of watching my tools gather dust in the garage, I've started on a dedicated shop for woodworking. Its a 12 x 22 building, a little bigger than the 10 x 20 garage bay I had. Wiring is done, walls are finished, waiting on the ceiling. Put down 3/4" White Oak form a nearby mill. They called it "Tavern Grade" a lot of defects and color variations, but it was $0.99/ SF.I figured on 20% waste and had enough left to use for a baseboard. Sealed it with BLO/Poly not really trying for a pretty finish it will get abused.Think I'm going to do some kind of T&G ceiling don't know if it will be store bought or DIY. The boy and I got my dust collector moved yesterday, I installed it myself 15 years ago, was sure nice to have some help this time.

I've got a Delta DJ20 jointer to move in and a Sawstop PCS to purchase. Once they are in place I'll start figuring out my collector piping.

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