The Woodshop Shed

Got a clever way of storing your driver bits?

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(from WoodNet.net)


Hi,

I keep mine in a small metal can...every time I need a bit I pour them out, find the bit I need and scoop the rest back into the can....not too efficient. I'm at a bit of a lull, woodworking-wise, so I thought I'd try to come up with a piece out of wood that'll hold them. Have you built something you could share? Since the bits themselves are 6-sided I can't simply drill holes in a block of wood........ unless there's been a 6-sided drill bit invention I don't know about.
Here are my parameters:

1) Cheap. I would like to use scrap wood

2) I'd rather not invest in magnets to hold them in the holder, but I need a way for them to not fall out of the holder is flipped/knocked over.

3) I realize that I could probably buy something, but I'm a cheap SOB so I'd like to make something.


I figure I've got 20-30 bits, but I'd like room for expansion.


Got any ideas? (I have perused YT, but nothing really struck my fancy so far).

Thanks!

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One eye v. an eye and a half

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Due to a detached retina (not woodworking related) I now have 20/20 vision in one eye and 20/150 in the other. As a result I have greatly curtailed my woodworking over the last 2-1/2 yrs. As hard as my brain tries, these two images prove difficult to combine.Look at it this way: If one eyeis a cherry pie and the other is a cow pie, mixing them together doesn't make the cow pie better. It just makes the cherry pie worse. I am considering using a patch over the bad eye but that sacrifices depth presception. If any woodworkers outthere have wrestled with this problem and have any advice I would appreciate it.

Papa Jim

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Anybody know much about "Combi Core" plywood?

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Anybody know much about "Combi core" plywood?

Friend gave me some and I'm not sure how to use it. I had some plans but since this stuff has MDF surfaces it's not suitable for any kind of exposure to moisture.

What I've got is 3/4" thick, five-layer (Three thick, two thin) veneer core with MDF outer layers, thin, printed vinyl on one face and the other face is "paint ready."

I'm building some shelves for a community center and I assume it will work well for that application but I won't be using it in an unheated storage shed as planned.


How would it work for building speaker boxes???

(also posted in "off topic" because you never know who knows what)


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Globe and Mail, Report on Business Article on Lee Valley

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Not a news to anyone here but this appeared in the latest issue of Globe and Mail, Report on Business Magazine.

The sharpest tool in the shed: How Lee Valley built a cult-like following

Thought you all would enjoy the read.

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Another base design question--check my process?

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(from WoodNet.net)


I need to design and build this base. I know that the faces each need two 60* faces cut into them so that they can be glued together.

My plan, for now, is to glue up the three leg assemblies, two pieces each, joined with floating tenons.

Then with a sled, cut all the feet to the same angle and the tops to the same angle.

To get those 60* cuts on the joining faces, I'm thinking of a sled to hold the leg assemblies in place to run them over the table saw blade set at 60*.

By sled I mean a piece of plywood that runs against the fence with stops screwed to it to hold the pieces in place, just like what you'll see in just about any Foureyes video on YouTube.

Any thoughts or suggestions? See any flaws with my thinking?

  Greer+Tripod+Base+Round+Dining+Table.jpg (Size: 20.64 KB / Downloads: 43)

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I finished my bar

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I've posted about this more than a few times, asking frequent questions and posting some updates on progress. Here it is all finished and decorated, with the only missing item being my dartboard and light just to the left of the bar.

I added a shot of the detail on the front. After building the stud wall and installing the "backsplash," I put the top on and screwed it in from underneath. Despite being cantilevered, it was quite solid. Anyway, the stud wall got 5mm flooring underlayment, and then I used milled 2x6s (planed to 1.25") to provide spacing for the stone siding and space for the trim. This was because I was using stone siding that I already had, and given its price (about $15 per square foot) I didn't want to spend freely on it. But I had just enough to fill in this spacing in this space. I milled the 2x6s to match the thickness of the siding. This way they would overlap without a gap.

Anyhow, I used 8/4 sapele to make a large base molding. These were attached with screws to the facing studs (2x6), themselves attached to the stud wall (2x4), which were in turn fastened to both the cabinets and Tapconned into the concrete slab. So they aren't going anywhere. The vertical trim is 4/4 sapele. All profiles down there are just rounded. I used 1/2" walnut buttons to cover the screw holes. I thought briefly about exposed screws, but I couldn't find anything suitable. Technically, the stainless screws on the iron shelf brackets are exposed, and those are longer screws to attach to the studs underneath (these are dual purpose, fastening the trim as well).

There is another shot of the end of the bar, prior to me changing the pendant shades and the bulbs (too bright and blue). I milled a piece of sapele down to 1/2", letting me still have some overhang from the bar top and not awkwardly overlapping the roundover from the countertop. It covers the exposed stud wall and mates with the vertical trim on the front, and butts up against the cabinet side. Above the countertop, it's 1/2" wider to cover the end of the plywood backsplash. It looks good, minus the brad nails (I had no real way to fasten it otherwise). It's fine, I just dislike having exposed fasteners.

I might add a stereo. I do have one that I intended to use (just mount in the wall with some speakers in the ceiling). I wasn't sure if it was necessary, but I just had my mom down for Mother's Day and when I said "let's go chat at the bar" the first she asked was whether there was music. So maybe I do. She also said the lights are too low. I debated this and I am not sure. There are threaded extensions and I can easily shorten them. But it's not that different from the kitchen upstairs, and I didn't find them distracting when we were sitting there talking.

On to the next project, whatever that is.

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Shot myself

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Putting together some planter boxes using 18ga nails and had a 'I probably shouldn't do that' moment... but did it anyway.


Only enough brad to break the skin, but it was right on the fleshy part of the side of my hand at the base of the thumb... and the force of the nailer packs a powerful punch against that bone.


Hurts like the dickens, but everything moves as it should so I'll hold the wife back for a couple days before I go get a picture taken.

Be careful out there!

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Hiding painted plywood butt jointed seams

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So I volunteered to make my daughter abuilt in for thier family room. She lives about three hours away, so I'll fabricate at home and bring the components to her house.Everythingwill be painted.

The configuration is thatshe has a largerecessed alcove about 12' long, 8' high and 24" deep. There will be a bottom row of cabinets the entire length and 3' wideshelving units on each end. The upper center section will have the TV.

I've done a couple kitchenprojects, so I'm finewith making the base cabs and shelving units. My question is about the countertop which will be about 16" deep, butthe 12' length has me a bit perplexed. Fabricating a solid top would be difficult for several reasons (small shop, 13" planer, no way to haul a 12' top), so I was thinking fabricating the top from plywood in two or three sections.I'll need to assemble thetop on site, add wood edging tothe front,then prime andpaint it.

We want a uniform, solid looking top.Are there techniques to hide the seams in the butted ply and edgebanding so they don't telegraph when built and in the future? What type of glue? Should I depress/chamfer the joints and fill?Or other suggestions?

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PSA - Replacement Locking Screw for Lee Valley Precision Double Square

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If anyone is struggling with Lee Valley Precision Double Square ( Precision Double Square - Lee Valley Tools) bladenot locking firmly, there is a Replacement Locking Screw (item #24N0803) available. It's not available online and you will have to callcustomer service department at 1-800-267-8761 (Canada)or 1-800-267-8735 (US). Cost is CAD $7.50. The main difference is the width of the lock bolt. In the old version it is 1/4" while the new one is 21/64". The extra 5/64" makes a whole lot of difference & the blade locks firmly with no slippage. HTH.

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Corner Clamps for Cabinet Carcasses?

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I have a dickens of a time getting my cabinet carcasses square. Even with rabbits and dadoes, and using clamping squares, they're always out of whack. It's one of those things that seems so easy for everyone, and I just can't get it. My pieces just keep sliding around. I'm thinking about getting a couple Krieg corner clamps. Curious what you all think about these and corner clamps in general.

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It all adds up...

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Was logged into my LV account and decided to review my order history. I was always curious as to how much I have spent there over the years (member since 05).On a lark, decided to download order history (copy/paste)and analyze in Excel. Over the last ~18 years, I have spent over $30K (CAD) at Lee Valley!!! Majority (2/3rd)of it is front loaded (05 to 11) when I was ramping up, but it all adds up!!! Now mind you it's not all WW but also includes kitchen and gardening stuff (more so lately)but majority (>90%) would be related to woodworking. Not a cheap hobby as this does not include machines (those would be extra OR Powertools OR other tool vendors although most of my stuff is from LV). Over the years, I am sure I have saved money by doing things on my own and derived satisfaction at a personal level, but still it's an eye opener.


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Never Ending Shop Organizing Story

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Sometimes you just have to stop the presses and do some organization projects

https://youtu.be/WbGdbkqrk28

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Online Woodworking Calculator

(Feet, Inches, fraction calculator)

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Vintage Library Shelving

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There is a very good article by Smithsonian detailing and explaining revolving bookcases once sold to libraries. They use a catalog from 1894 and provide lots of pictures and details. There are quite a few different styles shown in the article. Anyone looking for a project might enjoy giving this a view. I don't have the room to roll one of these around in my house but I'd love to try anyway.

Vintage Library Shelving

Here is one of the illustrations as an example of what's provided.


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River coffee table

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Building a 27x55in red oak river coffee table with Alumilte deep pour resin


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Original Incra Jig

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I am thinking about buying thisOriginal Incra Jig https://incra.com/router_table_fences-ij32.html

Anyone have any experience in this?

Thanks

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Can roadside lumber cause lead poisoning?

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I obtained some logs from a busy roadside. Considering the age of the tree, it was present at the roadside when lead was still used in petrol in my area. Do you think there is a risk to get lead poisoning from the sawdust when I am processing the logs? I am doing it here at home. Anyone has info about this? Whether to worry or not?

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