The Woodshop Shed

Cheating at Inlay Work

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I made this simple beech and sapele cutting board for a friend. First time ever using beech. Nice stuff. Anyway, I inlayed the first letter of his last name on the show side with my CNC.



The process is quite different than doing inlays by hand. You mill a recess in the substrate, sort of like you would do by hand, except the sides of the recess are cut at a much shallower angle, 45 degrees being typical. The male piece that fits into the recess is cut from a substrate much thicker than the final male, mirror image "L", by milling away the background, again leaving the edges of the "L" with a 45 deg angle. It's also cut so the male background sits just a little proud of the substrate so that when it's glued into the substrate the 45 deg edges of the male "L" will mesh tightly against the 45 deg edges in the substrate. Hope you followed that, should have taken some photos. After the glue dries, you bandsaw or mill off the excess from the male piece and then sand it flush.

John

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How to bandsaw mill a small cherry log?

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Hiya fellas. I just cut down a wild cherry tree. I'm not 100% sure if it is considered wild or not, but they sprout up out here all the time from the birds and squirrels. Small red/yellow cherries, like a rainier cherry but much smaller. The wood is orange and cream at the cut. I can add a pic later if need be?

I have a really nice looking stump standing that'sabout 4' tall, straight and I hate to waste it. It's 14-15"in diameter. Is it worth it? I was just going to flat saw the whole thing and wish for the best, but if it's just gona warp and twist, why bother?

I'm having trouble being ableto tell how big the pith is. It has a center area, but it's huge. And I can't tell the difference between the sapwood and heartwood either. Is this a waste of my time? I mean even if I can get some smaller pieces out of it to work with later, that'd be great. But I'm not sure how to cut it to get good pieces. I could get somequartersawnpieces out of it, but not much at all. I'm not sure how to cut it without wasting it. How much of the pith needs left out when I can't tell? same with the sapwood. I've milled other woods on my bandsaw, but this one I'm not familiar with at all. I could really use some help. Hot weather's here and I hate to see it start checking if there's a chance at harvesting something out of it.

Got any advice here you'd be willing tooffer? What would you do?Thanks for reading.

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The Last Tree Ladder Maker

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Interesting video of the last guy making ladders from trees. A good mix of hand and power tools. It's all in German, but you get the process.



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Safety glasses bifocals vs progressive lenses?

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I have been wearing progressive lenses for a few years now as my primary glasses, and find myself in the bad habit of not switching out to safety glasses in the shop.

Anybody have any suggestions?

I'm considering trying to find a set ofsafety glasses with fairly large lenses and either get progressive lenses or bifocals for the shop.

May even consider a set of readers only safety glasses if that would work, but I'm thinking they would make distant vision more challenging.

Mostly I'm looking for a little help seeing the tape measure, as I have a lighted magnifier for when I really need close detail.

Any suggestions for source and style of glasses that you have used would be appreciated.

Thanks

Duke

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Desk Design ?

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Been quite a while since I have been on Woodnet and theshop has been collecting dust too long.

I have a friend that wants a desk for the home office. She supplied the turned legs she purchased online. The top will be 30 deep x 72 long/wide. She would like a drawer at either side but minimize the apron in the center.

Usually this would be a simple build except for minimizing the apron at the front.

Rear and side aprons will be straight forward.I am thinking that I will need to construct frame workthat will provide sides for the drawer slideswith a piece further inside acting as a cross member between them. I haven't got these detailson paper yet and wanted to check here for ideas.

Imagine a desk with the normal aprons except for the front with two small drawers at the front corner. I will post a picture later.

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I had to use the board stretcher today

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Measure twice, cut once. I measured the space properly, *thought* I measured the board properly, but apparently something was off and it ended up 1/8" short. Fortunately, I had enough left to cleanly glue it back on, and given that piece is not only 6" off the ground but will never be under stress of any kind, I figured it made more sense to use the old board stretcher rather than surface another board, cut, route, sand, finish and everything else.

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Spindle Sander Dust Collection

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[font=Inter, Helvetica, Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, "fira sans", "droid sans", sans-serif]After I made my own spindle sander the dust that it creates was a little much so I decided to try and solve that issue. What I came up with worked SO much better than expected.[/font]

[font=Inter, Helvetica, Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, "fira sans", "droid sans", sans-serif]https://youtu.be/pu_lUYkEDtE[/font]

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Spalted maple burl

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I was given amaple burl several years ago. It is good sized; about 8 inches from the flat side to the top and "somewhat" symmetrical in spherical shape. It sat in my shop wrapped in plastic until I decided to open it up the other day. This is what I found:


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I think the entire burl is like this; there are no soft spots that I can feel on the outside. Of course, spalted wood is not hard.

I'm not crazy about turning this piece; I think it would tear easily. I could slab it on my bandsaw and then use the slabs for box tops and panels. It would be a simple matter to bookmatch the result to end up with larger pieces.

I really don't have experience with spalted wood. If I slab the burl, should I harden the wood before any further machining? How would I do that? Any advice on how to treat this wood is appreciated.

I have another much larger maple burl that has been stored the same length of time, though in the open air. I have not opened that larger burl. I doubt I'll find spalting in that one. It's so large I'll have to cut it into smaller chunks with a chainsaw.

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Will Cypress Withstand Ground Contact?

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Wanting to do some borders in the garden.

Currently have the landscape timbers that sell for $3 ea at the BORG. Not impressed with the longevity. Knew that at the beginning, but they were cheap.

Considered cross ties. I think this would win long term, but the cost does add up. And then there's the potential creseote leaching issue.

Now I'm considering cypress. There's a mill local to me that does a lot of it. Thought I might get some of the off slabs. Will they stand up to ground contact for 3-4 years?

I'm only looking at going about 8" tall.

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Cutting Board how to seal

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my wife and I recently moved into our dream home and my buddy who was our mortgage broker and he had a custom cutting board made for us and its incredible. I have attached a pic of it. We want to display it above our range area and I was curious about what type of sealer would be good on this wood to help seal it from moisture and from twisting etc. We won't be using it as a cutting board as its too nice and I don't want to ruin it. lol! thanks in advance!

Johnny

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Looking for Birds Eye Maple Veneer

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I'm looking for a sheet of Birds Eye Maple approximately 20" x 20". This willhave to be rotary cut because of the size. Any suggestions of where to purchase this?

Thanks

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Purpleheart order not so purple

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I tried mail ordering wood for the first time. I had my reservations because I wondered if some guy in the warehouse could really be as picky as I would, but I convinced myself that this place is in the business of doing exactly that, and they couldn't stay in business if they shipped out junk. So here is what I got for my 8 bd ft order of purpleheart.How would you feel?

I will not name the company yet as I have not given them a chance to respond. I am just wondering if I am too picky, or if this is what one would expect to receive.

It looks like I got three boards cut in 3' lengths to make the shipping easier.

Side 1

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Side 2

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Panels out of parallel?

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I used my Festool track saw to break down some plywood for cabinet panels. Of course, my cuts were a bit out of square. (I used my big Woodpecker square to try to square up the track, but it never works well enough. I guess I need to invest in one of those square guides?)
What's the best way to get the panels into square? I don't have a crosscut sled yet, and I doubt it would have enough capacity for the panel width. I'm pretty sure the TS wouldn't do it. I used the track saw again, and got it pretty close. But I feel like I'm forgetting something.

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Given to me

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This is the first batch I got yesterday I got the second batch today and in todays haul most of the boards was longer. The cost was the fuel to drive about 100 miles round trip on day one and the same for today I didn't think to get a picture today. There was more than enough Walnut and hard maple to more than ofset two days of fuel costs.


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Some time next week I am going back for this. The top is hard maple and about 1 1/2 inches thick


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My shop was a mess because of winter but now I am having a hard time finding it.

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Another table design question

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How would you build this to prevent racking?

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Stupid question...

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Is there a possibility to buy a long 5g bucket to fit a gamma seal? i know i can glue the seal to something bigger but i wanted the diameter of a 5g. ideally 15~20g size so like 3-4 5g buckets. thanks

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Blum for full inset face frame cabinets?

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I have some existing cabinets that have overlay doors that my wife and I want to replace with full inset doors.

The face frame is already in place, so I'd like to mount a European hinge to the back of face frame.

Anybody have a good source that they like to order good quality hinges from?

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Cherry trestle table base

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This was my first "for profit" commission. I probably should have charged $1k more than I did, but I didn't lose money on it and I'm happy enough.

I'm learning.

4x4 foot pieces. 4x3.5 posts. All draw bore M&T and pegged half lap joinery. It was a joy and a terror to build as it was my first trestledesign from scratch.

Over all dimensions are 89.5 x 49. It's gonna support a 104 x 55 marble top. Adjustable leveler under each foot rated at 330# each.

I wish I had documented the build but just never set up while I did.

The 30 x 60 table top (another project ongoing) to show scale.

Rubio Monocoat Pure finish.

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Educate me- CA adhesive and activator

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I understand the concept and uses- but have never used any. I have some molding projects coming up, and think CA makes sense.
What do I want? Brands, type etc. sources?

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