The Woodshop Shed

Anyone have a 1 1/4' x 1 1/4" x 8-10'' piece of cherry laying around?

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Hi folks,

The backgammon board is progressing along nicely, except for a few hiccups. As youmight be able to see in the background, I'm gluing on some "extensions" in order to make it a little taller so that it will accommodate the playing chips.

See that tray inthe foreground with the dowel in it? That'll hold the chips and it'll get flocked. That cherry dowel will be sliced to make the cherry chips and I have a maple dowel that'll get sliced to make the maple chips.

I've been scrounging through the scrap bin and that cherry dowel is the only bit of cherry that I was able to turn down to make the cherry chips. I could glue up some thinner stick and turn that, but I'd rather have the chips be whole.I haven't done the math yet, but I need 15 cherry chips and with the thickness of the saw blade I'm worried that I won't have enough cherry, thus my ask.

Got a piece of scrap laying around? maybe 8-10" long that's 1 1/4" square or larger? If so, let me know what you want for it. Thanks!

  progress shot.gif (Size: 225.7 KB / Downloads: 91)

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Cool cuts with a bandsaw

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)




Something I've never seen before and thought I would share. If you know of others please post them to share with us these wonderful ideas.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

DIY crown molding with a router

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


As part of my bar project (and as it continues to evolve, because I basically build for the sake of building like Sarah Winchester), I will need to add crown to my top cabinets. The entire thing is sapele, because apparently it's all I use. You can buy crown molding, but it would be rather expensive ($100+ for what I need). There are two top cabinets, both 24" wide, with 64" of shelving spanning between them for bottles. They will be regular wall cabinets (12" deep) and the top will be spanned by a 12" wide board. I will be installing mini recessed canless lights in this one, so crown, aside from just looks, will serve to hide the top of the lights and the wiring (there will be about 6" between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling for overcabinet lighting as well).

You can't find 112" molding without a joint (or without exorbitant shipping costs). I don't necessarily care that much about having a "traditional" crown profile, and I wouldn't even be averse to more or less vertical trim. But I was thinking of doing some type of "crown" - even 45 degree - with a 1/2" or 5/8" board. I assume it would be possible to chamfer or miter two edges like typical crown, and then add various cove or V profiles to get some type of crown-approximating profile. I see plenty of bits available, but what about just winging it? I rarely (never) do this, but it seems like it might be worth trying to mix up a few different profiles and see what happens.

Crazy idea?

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Outgrew the Shelf on my Leatherwork Bench

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


A Couple years ago I built a shelf for my leatherworking bench in the woodshop to hold all the "stuff" I needed at hand. Over the last two years I have expanded the work I have been doing and added the tools to improve the quality of my work... I have outgrown the shelf unit I threw together. The original shelf I in the pic below. Understand that I didn't put a finish on the shelf as I didn't want to have it affect the tools... and in the climate controlled shop, I wasn't worried about the wood. I did my best to make a good piece, and did put plugs in the screw holes and the like... but just didn't worry about sanding to 800 grit, or fancy scroll work.




  tool rack.jpg (Size: 519.38 KB / Downloads: 176)



Now the time has come to replace this shelf, and I played with the idea of HOW I wanted to design the new shelf. I came up with expanding the shelf to the table's edges, adding about a foot of space to each shelf, to the tool bar at the bottom, and it would also allow me to hook the shelf to the table without drilling into the table top by hooking the shelf to the skirting. I'd be going up from 24" to 36" as well.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Cutting Polylac filler

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I have been away from woodworking for a very long time. I have a cabinet filler strip above the refrigerator opening that I need to cut down by 3/8 inch to fit in a tallerrefrigerator. Can I safely rip the piece down to size on my tablesaw and get a clean cut without damaging the high gloss finish on the front of the filler? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

How would you fix these?

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


The late Sunshine for some reason decreed that the bunk beds were banished from the basement to the unheated barn some 15 years ago. Now they are needed so I'm sanding and scratching my head about how to get them back in decent condition -- still have the dresser, desks and bench that go with the set. (My mother bought these 60+ years ago, I grew up with them as did my boys. Good stuff.)

But unconditioned storage was rough on them.

I'm thinking epoxy in crack and screw to pull it together, clamp for insurance.


  bunk 1.jpg (Size: 206.28 KB / Downloads: 223)
  bunk 3.jpg (Size: 184.96 KB / Downloads: 223)
  bunk 2.jpg (Size: 178.29 KB / Downloads: 223)

Holes in top are for pegs to mount them as bunks; you could also use desks as bed ends.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Anyone ever built a backgammon set??

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Hi,

Been thinking about building one. Saw a couple of videos on YT and whileI got some ideas (make the "discs" out of a large dowel...good idea),building the board posed some issues. I saw one YTer who built the "triangles", stained them contrasting colors and thenglued them to a substrate but there were some gaps. He then glue a strip to the substrate that separated my side of the board from yours. The grain ran 90 degrees and there were gaps there too. I could be more precise and avoid the gaps, but the grain running 90 degrees didn't looks right.

I assume I could cut out the triangles, double-side tape them down, mark them/trace them out with a very sharp knife on to the substrate board and route/chisel out the recesses....but that seems like a lot of work. Doable, but still a lot of work.

Got any other ideas for making the playing surface?


Making the case, the rack to hold the discs and everything else doesn't present a problem, just making the board does. Thanks!

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Even more benchtop patching

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


So the Beginning and Intermediate Woodworking night classes have been running for a few weeks at the Kansas City Woodworkers' Guild. That means the repair squawk list has grown. People make mistakes, equipment needs servicing. And once again, somebody has been dropping still spinning router bits onto work surfaces.

And since they added a new gouge to the benchtop I patched with a squirrel last time, now he gets an acorn.


  squirrel.jpg (Size: 133.52 KB / Downloads: 101)

  acorn.jpg (Size: 162.85 KB / Downloads: 101)

On another bench, a nice Fig Newton holder was created when, once again, somebody didn't check all the Domino Joiner settings before plunging into their work.

There, a rabbit patch, because they were in a hurry.


  bunny_small.jpg (Size: 160.54 KB / Downloads: 101)

Hackberry for the bunny and acorn body. Walnut for the bunny eye and acorn hat.

Since I'm generally using scraps to make the repairs, I don't always have a great choice. I wish either the light portion or the dark portion of the hackberry had been large enough for the whole bunny. But it is what it is.

As before, got the SVG files from the Noun Project. Then did a bit of editing and cut the pocket and patch with the Shaper Origin. Press fit.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Soft close hinge source/brand

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


wanting to upgrade euro style Blum hinges to soft closing ones. what brands are recommended? And source?
Thanks

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Bandsaw Blade Needed

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Hi Guys,

I need to replace some of my blades. I need a 1/4" and a 3/8" X 105" blade. My searches come up with Dewalt and Bosch. What's a good blade that won't break the bank? Best place to buy. My larger blade is a 1/2" wood slicer from Highland. I've had it for 15 years. I don't use it much. I never bought any of their other blades. I use it to cut circles and thin slices. It's been a long time since I bought any.

Thanks

Mike

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Lr32 euro slide spacing?

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


What do I need to know about using the LR32 hole spacing that is common in European cabinets?

I'm building a portable drawer system for my festool stuff, so having readily adjustable or movable height for drawer slides may be of benefit in the future as I change configuration.

What do I need to know about a jig for drilling the holes in proper spacing?

Thanks
Duke

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Help needed for Little Lending Library build

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Help needed for Little Lending Library:

I used MDO (outdoor) 3/4" plywood for a neighborhood lending library. It turned out well, but the door I built moves quite a bit with the weather changes, so I want to build and upgrade to a better door. MDO is really durable, but it is still plywood; so it's not ideal for joinery. Can anyone help me with designing a door that has a large plexiglass window? Finish will be exterior latex paint.

The door I am using now is qtr-sawn white oak with mortise and tenon corners. That wood moves toomuch seasonally to maintain a good snug fit. PVC lumber would look good; but how do I join the corners?

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Hall Table - Sort of a build-along

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I'm building another hallway table for a lady I made a similar one for last year. This one is wider and shorter to fit a spot not far from the other.

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

This Old House 40 Year Anniversary

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Origins of This Old House and the spawning of The New Yankee Workshop



Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

What Drawer Slide to Use?

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Hi Guys,

I'm in the process of reviewing plans to build a Shaker Lingerie Chest and a Shaker Dresser. The plans call for wooden guides for the drawers, something that I would hate to do. Both will have inset drawers so I believe there is no way to mount full extension side mount slides. Is it possible to do a undermount? If so, what model slide would you suggest? I've installed these with a overlay drawer but never with a inset. I'm sure I'm over thinking this. I'm concerned about getting the top, bottom and sides even.

Thanks,

Mike

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Reusing an Old Door

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I occasionally do a gratisproject for the guy I get logs from; nothing's free. This time he wanted to reuse an unused door from his 1830-ish house to block access from one portion of his house to the main part. The door needed some repair work, needed to be hinged the other way, and needed a new jamb to be made to fit it.

The door had a big chipout at the top of one stile so I started by cutting a straight edge and inlaying a new piece of wood. This photo was taken later after it had been trimmed.



Sorry, no picture, but I trued it up with a circular saw against a guide clamped to the door,then a couple of swipes with a bench plane. To change the hinging I first glued filler blocks into the existing hinge pockets. Then I made a little mortising guide to cut the new pockets. You'll see a special mortising bit in my palm router. They are made by Whiteside, come in various lengths, and are 1/2" diameter with a 1/2" bearing on top. This means the guide can be the exact same size as the hinge, no more adding 1/16" all around like you have to when using a collet. The 1/2" diameter also fits perfectly with the corners of many hinges.

To cut the pockets in the new jamb, I first clamped the jamb to the side of the door with a 3/32" shim at the top to account for the gap needed there, then marked the hinge locations on the edge of the jamb. Then I reused the same mortising jig to cut the pockets. I removed the back fence and screwed it directly to the jamb. It's a paint grade project, so it's not a big deal to fill a few more holes.

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

A puzzlement - any ideas?

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


About 15 yearsago I inherited an old "bachelor chest" type dresser with a mirror swinging between uprights, probably 75-100 years old. I refurbished the solid-oak top, fixed all the drawers,and stripped/repainted the body. We used it in a spare bedroom for several years then loaned it to LOML's brother in 2019. Recently, when he moved from Florida to Virginia, we got back everything (including one drawer where the back finger-joints needed to be re-glued) EXCEPT the mirror hinge screws that held the mirror to the supports. Those, apparently, were lost in the move or lost in the mountain of stuff he moved.

The original mirror screws were turned-knobs with the screws (like hanger bolts) about 2" long. I could easily turn new knobs in some period fashion with inserted hanger bolts except I do not know the diameter and thread count of the threaded-inserts in the mirror frame. I must have 7 million screws and bolts of every known SAE or metricsize and variety, but nothing I have will fit - 1/4 inch a little too small, 5/16 inch a little too large - regardless of Coarse or Fine thread count. I doubt metrics were used back in the day, but nothing I have in comparable sizes will fit.

The ideas I have so far is to measure theID of the inserts to see if something comes up - like a 9/32" odd size (which may be hard to find). Or assume somehow the threads were mangled and try to re-tap with 5/16, maybe. Or try to extractthe old inserts (who knows what that may entail)and use new ones with standarddiameter/thread. The only other option I can think of is to abandon the old and use slightly-offset new threaded inserts and new holes drilled in the supporting columns of the dresser.

Any ideas or thoughts here? BTW, would it be possible toscrew a hard-wax or wood dowel of about the right diameter in there to get at the dimensions?

Gary

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

New Workbench Slab Top

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I'm considering building a new woodworking workbench. I like the Roubo style and am still looking atoptions for vises. The top is the most difficult part of a bench build, at least in my experience when I built my present bench many years ago. Typically the boards, after milling are glued on edge rather than flat. Im my case I'm planning on a bench ~24" in width.

Today I discovered that a friend who previously owned a cabinet shop, has a couple of red oak slabs that might work. The only problem is they are only 1 1/2" thick, thinner than I had planned. My question is this - can two slab pieces be glued together, one on top of other with the grain running in same direction of course, to form a 3" thick top without having any wood movement problems?

Doug

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first