The Woodshop Shed

Walnut

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


Not often you come across nice clear walnut of this size. 20+" wide x 7' long x 2" thick. Saw it posted on Facebook by a lumber supplier a little over an hour away and did not diddle around. The dark areas are where it got wet from rain on the way home.

I have some leads on a CNC machine to mill these down to thickness. They are already skip planed to 1-7/8" Going to be a dining table at about 1-5/8" thick.


  Walnut 1.jpg (Size: 161.92 KB / Downloads: 129)


  Walnut 2.jpg (Size: 96.71 KB / Downloads: 128)

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

then...diasaster struck

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


or maybe it a senior moment, or just plain ineptness on my part.Back around the first of the year I started working on building a serpentine drawer sideboard. This is to replace one we already have (POS) and I was trying to copy it in detail. This will sound like I'm making excuses (I probably am), butmy wife is handicapped so I also do caregiver and all household choresand of course the outdoor stuff. So my time in the shop might be 15 minutes a day, with an occasional sprinkling of 1 hour stints.So when I made this mistake I have all kinds of excuses for doing it, but the truth is it shouldn't have happened.Couple that with me making this project much harder than it should be (building drawers first, then the carcase) and the result is this screw up. The piece has a full width drawer in the center, and2 smaller drawers at the top.I vacuum pressed the 2 drawer fronts and cut one in half for the upper 2 drawers. Then I went ahead and finished the drawer boxes, intending to build the carcase to fit them. The story goes on for several paragraphs that I'll skip, but here's what happened:the 2 half fronts needed t be fit in the same way they were pressed but instead I made the right side drawer with the front upside down.This results int eh curves not matching the trim pieces as well as the second drawer. I'm now faced with disassembling the original and make a new box keeping the front oriented correctly. There was a dozen way for me to avoid this, and none of them worked; I screwed up. here's some pics, the close up is the misaligned front, and how it looks when I sit the drawer in there upside down. BTW another genius move I made was to use brass dowels to hold the fronts to the boxes, that complicates my disassembly process quite a bit, I won't be able to just resaw the rabbit for the sides.

  crapsm.JPG (Size: 486.33 KB / Downloads: 87)

  crapsm2.JPG (Size: 754.99 KB / Downloads: 87)

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

The Pedestal made from those Beveled Edge Panels

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


After I made the panels with the supplemental fencethat I showed on another thread, I glued them up and then fit the top to it. The overall dimensions are 22W x 16D x 31H. I put corner blocks inside at the bottom to help reinforce it there.






After filling and sanding the low spots flush, I ran a 1/8" round over bit along all the edges. I painted it with BIN 123 WB primer. At $28/gallon it is a bargain and with a little thinning sprays as well as the BIN shellac pigmented primer I used to use until the price got ridiculous. The topcoat is Duralaq WB white acrylic lacquer. Great stuff, but I'm not sure it's still available. I had a gallon left over from my kitchen remodel a few years and it was a perfect use for a little of it.

I brought it upstairs this morning and willlet it cure for a few days before delivering it to our local library where some sculpture will be mounted on top.





Simple forms like this show every defect when painted. The time I spent filling and sanding the low spots, more than once, paid off. Thepedestallooks about as perfect as I'm capable of.

John

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Bevels on a Right Tilt TS

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I've shown this before, but it's been a while so I thought some might like to see how easy it is to safely make bevel cuts on a right tilt saw. You make a supplemental fence that clamps to the primary fence.



The bottom of the fence is just a smidge below the thickness of the material you're cutting. The left edgeof the blade is set to meet the bottom corner of the fence.



Then you just ride the edge of your workpiece against the fence. Your workpiece must be the final dimensionsif you are beveling opposite sides because the process does not change the dimensions of the part. That's a very good thing. If your workpiece has the correct dimensions before cutting the bevels, it will after cutting, too. And you can run parts of any size, provided you have enough support on the left side;there's no need to adjust the fence for different size parts.

The offcut falls harmlessly under the fence, so there's no danger of kickback.



If the workpiece happens to lift up during the cut, the part ends up with less bevel cut in that area. But you can make the cut again to get it perfect. If that happens making the cut on the right side of the blade, you have a ruined part.

Many folks don't like a right tilt saw because it's not easy to cut bevels. With this supplemental fence, it's just as easy as with a left tilt saw and offers additional advantages.

John

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first