C - Table with built in shelf
My wife has a home office that she recently purchased a Chaise Lounger , its a model that doesn't have any arms on it, so it makes it difficult to read or drink a cup of coffee at. So She asked me to come up with a idea of a table.
So I came across a lot of style's of table that would work great but something stuck out about this style of table and mainly it was the joint that was used to assemble it, its called a finger joint (box joint) and its simply a series of fingers and slot that when mated together forms an extremely strong joint as well as looking very attractive and not as hard to complete as say a dovetail joint. My blog detailing this project goes into a lot more detail but these are the steps I took in making this project, but please feel free to click the below links for he Project Blog and Complete plans on making it.Materials NeededI wanted to use by some 1” x 12” Oak and Maple woods to make this but my home center didn't have any so I opted to buy some 1” thick Stair threads so that is what I did. I basically ripped the bullnose edging of and I was at the races and for a fraction of the cost as well.Crosscutting the partsOnce I ripped the bullnose edging that was on the workpieces I turned to my crosscut sled to cut them to final size and to be honest I spent more time in this project in the glue up than any other phase. This project only had 5 parts to it.
The Box Joint JigI actually didn't have a box joint jig for my table saw so I went about making one, I actually put a lot of time into this jig because I really like using finger joints in projects so I put together this little jig for the table-saw that I found on www.instructables.comwww.instructables.comCutting the finger jointsWith the jig built it was time to cut the box joints, since there were only 5 pieces project this didn't take very long and within about 90 minutes I had cut all box joints into their respective parts. Some parts had both ends of a board jointed with box joints and other boards only needed 1 end with them.
I actually needed to add a sacrificial fence to my fence on the jig because a couple of the boards were too tall and felt a little on the nervous side running them through the 1/2” wide dado stack.Dry Assembly & Clamping AidsTo aid me during the glue-ups I actually had another side project and that was to make some right angled clamping jigs I had some scrap MDF so I banged out about 6 of them to aid in the clamping of the table parts. It was crucial that all joints were at 90 because it only had 1 side to it and I didn't want the table tipping over. I also always do a dry assembly to rehearse the glue up and know were to add clamps. This table took a week to glue up because I didn't want to take a chance on working on a table section and the glue was not fully cured, so I added a piece of the table every day leaving the glue dry for 24 hours for each joint.
Here are the right angled clamping jigs
One section all clamped up.Glue-UpLike I had mentioned I glue up one section at a time so as that it had 24 hours to cure between project sections. I also used a few tricks to help me with limited cleanup of glue squeeze-out along the joint line, in theory you place tape adjacent to the joint so any squeeze out goes onto the tape and them once cured you just rip up the tape and you have a nice clean line, this worked great and I will be using this in the future.SandingIn between each glued up section I sanded the parts with 150 grit and finally once the table was assembled I used 220 grit that was probably overkill but I didn't have any other grit other than courser grits.Finished TableI finally applied 3 coats of Minwax Polyacrylic finish and sanded in between each coat and I have to say that the table came out great and the wife is very happy.Well that is all I have and thanks for reading, please feel free to check out my website where I blogged in more details and have plans for plans for for sale on my site.
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posted at: 12:00am on 12-Apr-2019
path: /Woodworking | permalink