The Woodshop Shed

Rocking tractor update

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  IMG_0853.jpeg (Size: 59.76 KB / Downloads: 44)a while ago I posted some questions about building a rocking tractor- it is done!

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Dust Bin Level Sensor?

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Anyone here have installed a dust bin level sensor/alarm? What do you use?

I have a lexan window on mine to visually see when the dust is getting high in the bin, but soon enough my cyclone will be in a mechanical room separate from the workshop and I won't have ready visibility of the dust bin to know when it's getting full. So I've been thinking of installing a sensor of sorts to turn on an alarm light in the shop to warn me that the bin is getting full.

I was just checking out the system that Oneida sells and at $149 it's a price point at which I'm inclined to justbuy another tool with that money and just visually check my dust bin at the beginning and end of each work day in the shop. But still I guess $149 isn't too bad for what it is.

I recall reading somewhere that some people set up a pressure switch to sense the increase in pressure in the dust bin. If that's simple enough, maybe that's a more affordable option.

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Need to reduce a cabinet door

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We bought these cabinets from Ikea about 15 years ago. The doors are made of real wood on the rails and styles. This cabinet lives above the fridge and the space it left has always been a bit tight. The fridge is now having problems to the point we will need to replace it soon-ish. However, most fridges are a bit taller and they will block the doors. My plan is to try to cut them down a bit and reduce the cabinet box size. I'm a bit apprehensive because we can't get replacements for these anymore so if I mess it up, it stays that way. From what I have found so far, there is no good way to take the joint apart. You have to cut it. I'm hoping someone here has done this and might have some magic that let's me bypass all that. The end result would be the top and bottom retaining the same width and the sides and panel will be about an inch shorter.


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Hinge type?

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I built a storage box which doubles as a step or a small platform.
It's 22-1/2 X 18 X 10.
The lid, the top of this object, is split into two sections such that a portion of it is fixed in place.
The fixed portion is 6-1/2 X 18.
The remainder of the lid butts up against and will hinge to this fixed section along the 18 dimension.
It will lift up from the opposite end.

The location where this box goes is several hours away and I can't recall if it's possible to have the 16 X 18 section of the lid hinge from the opposite end and open from the center. But, we thought it would work best opening from the outside edge.

Because it's also a step (small platform), I don't want anything sticking up above the surface of this top.
When the lid is closed, it sits flat on top of the box's 5/8 thick frame as does the fixed portion.
Thus, I anticipate the hinges will mortise into the top face of each side of the lid with the knuckle down into one edge.

Am I correct?
Am I missing anything?
Your suggestions as to the proper himge?

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Shapton Sharpening Stones

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Been helping agood friend andFellow W'dworker is closinghis hobby shop. Age and medical issues are taking a toll. He showedsome Shapton stones and told me to pick what I need. Some are in unopened plasticcases.

Stones are: No-Kuromaku ceramic:

320 grit
1000 grit
1200 grit
2000 grit
5000 grit
8000 grit

Have no information about these stones except thatShapton is high quality. What would be good grit choices for chisel and plane sharpening? Or, would it be better to pass and let him sell all the stones as a six stone set?

Appreciate any advice.

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free(ish) sanding discs

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benchmark abrasives is offering 50 assorted sanding discs for a $10 shipping charge. packs are either 80-220 grit or 320-1000 grit. hook and loop backing. I got a pack of 80-220 delivered the other day. haven't used them on power sander but am using them for sanding pieces for intarsia project. so far, for sanding intarsia pieces, I like it better than the purple 3M sandpaper so far.



https://benchmarkabrasives.com/pages/pur...6915810060

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Painting Question

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I painted some drawer faces (poplar/ply) with Kilz primer. I guess I didn't think it enough (I was once told that primer should stay thick), and there are a lot of brush strokes in the finish now that it dried. I plan to try to sand it flat, unless you all tell me to go a different route. Can I put my enamel paint on top first, and then sand that?

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New Desk Finally Done!

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This one has been in the works for a long time. I started on this over four years ago. I got the side pieces done, but then we decided to sell the house and move to another state. I moved the parts, and the piece of laminate for the top, of course. But we've been doing so much work on the new place that I haven't been able to get to this. Well now, it's finally done!

I designed it for a larger room at the old house. The office here is pretty small, but it is nice to have an office. It will be nice to have a larger desk too.

Keeping black backdrop sheets from getting dusty in a shop is a challenge! But it does make a better background than the shop door and concrete floor.


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No Shop Complaints

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In 2023 I sold almost everything in my shop. We then moved to a 55-apartment complex in 2024, 1st floor with a large garage. I thought I wouldn't miss having a shop. Earlier this year I realized the mistake I made, we bought our current home with a walk out basement that affords me about 1100 SF of shop space. The only real issue is that the ceiling is suspended which limits the head room a bit. My previous shop had a 10' ceiling. But I'm slowly getting my shop back one piece at a time as money permits. So in short I'll never complain about my shop again.

Jim

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Sideboard

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Thisall got started when i was complaining about how bad a sideboard we had looked. It was a 50's(or so)real piece of crap that we (actually, my wife)had boughtsome 30 years ago at a flea market...for some reason she just loved it. Anyway, my complaint led to "well, why don't you make a new one?". That led to this project which I have been puttering with since late last winter. What i didn't realize what she wanted was the same design in a new piece. i forgot to mention that i hated the design along with everything else about the piece. Anyway, here's where I'm atfor the moment. The chest itself is largely done, I still have to make a center stile to fit between the 2 top drawers, anda mirror frame for the the top.All my complaints aside, I have found this to be enjoyable, especially making the serpentine drawer fronts. The existing piece is made of oak, stained very dark. I made this one out of cherry and it won't be stained at all, probably just a coat of garnet shellac and an oil based alkyd varnish. But with the drawers sitting in it and the top laying on it here's where it's at. Oh, the existing piece has casters on the legs; wooden wheel casters. I managed to find some though they aren't installed yet. They will make it about 4" taller.

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Joining wood - Wii this work?

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I have a large amount of cypress wood cutoffs that I saved from the ceilings of our outdoor porches when we built our house 15 years ago. It is 1 by 6 tongue andv groove and most of the pieces are from 1 1/2 - 2 ft long. It is such pretty wood that I just couldn't bear to throw it away.

I want to build about a dozen blue bird houses and was wondering if I could use this wood. My thoughts were to cut the tongue and v groove off and then glue three boards together using Tightbond 3. This would give me wood that is wide enough to cut 2 boards of sufficient size for the front, sides, etc of the bluebird houses. But since each final piece would have a glued joint I'm worried that it may cup or warp. I know it just bluebird houses but I don't want to go to all this effort if the final result will not hold up.

Can everyone tell me if you think this would work or is a bad idea?

Thanks

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