The Woodshop Shed

LP Album Cabinet

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guy I have built some other stereo related cabinets for asked if I could build something like this, but make the style similar to the cabinets I had made before. Here's the image he sent me.



This is one of the cabinets I made for him before:



So I used the same type of end frames and exposed plywood edges for this cabinet. The basic box is 5/8" Baltic birch plywood with 1/16" shop sawn walnut vacuum bagged on both sides. I had a single 14" wide 8/4 walnut plank that I got all the veneer from for the cabinet. The widest parts on the cabinet are 12". The cabinet and the end frames both are joined with biscuits and glue. I thought about adding pocket screws underneath but decided there was plenty of glue area. I do wish I had used splines cut with a router instead of biscuits to install the partitions in the cabinet simply because keeping the orientation correct for the biscuit joiner wasn't easy; in fact, I got it wrong and one of the partitions isn't quite square in the vertical axis.



Getting the biscuit slots cut properly for the end frames was a challenge, too, but a couple of spacers to position the joiner correctly did the trick. Curiously, I had used the same idea to cut the slots for the partitions but must have gotten the L/R orientation backwards on one of them. Anyway, the end frames lined up perfectly.

The end frames are 3/4" Baltic birch plywood joined with loose tenons.





Getting the angled parts to align perfectly was another adventure, but I finally succeeded. Thinking about it afterwards, if I do something like this again, I'll leave the angled ends long, glue it up minus the top rail, and then cut the tops of the angles on the TS using a wedgeto get the correct angle.

The cabinet looks like this once it's all glued up.



The step in between the upper and lower sections is 5". Unfortunately, the wire legs he wanted to use to support the cabinet only come in 2" increments for ones in this length range. To accommodate the 1" difference, I installed the rears legs directly to the cabinet bottom using brass inserts and 1/4 - 20 machine screws (to make it easy to transport).





To install the front legs, I made a 1" spacer block out of ash and put T-nuts on the back side for the machine screws. They are glued and screwed to the cabinet.



The cabinet is finished with Osmo Polyox. It holds up better than a film finish to albums being slid over it and is far easier to repair should it get damaged. FWI, the streaks ofwax from installingthe brass insertscompletely disappeared when I applied the Osmo.

Here's what it looks like in the guy's house.





He has an eclectic taste in music, from Dylan, to the GooGoo Dolls (started in Buffalo), to John Coltran and Janis Joplin. He's far younger than me, so some of those would not be obvious choices.

He also asked me to make some album display brackets to go on the wall. I had a nice piece of genuine mahogany that I could get the 6 brackets out of. They're about 12-1/2" wide x 2" deep and 1-1/2" high. They are held to the wall with a French cleat. On one of them I cut "Now Playing" on my CNC. Here's how one looks like from the end, showing the French cleat that will be screwed to the wall.



And here's the one with the CNC machining.



I finished themwith a single coat of Danish Oil. He hasn't installed them yet, so no photos of how they look on the wall.

John

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Clever Carpentry

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A friend of mine sent this to me. Somepretty crazy/clevercarpentry

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/pUqU-FoJvzc

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got any good ideas on what to do with 150(approx) mahogany spindles???

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So our AG pool developed a tear and we're going to take it down.

I'm in the process of dismantling the mahogany deck I built 20-ish years ago. The railing spindles are 1 3/8'squaremahogany spindles. They have a screw hole at the top and one at the bottom and the clear span between is approx 32". I ran one through the planer on one side to see what it looks like once the clear finish is removed and it's the sweet, red mahogany color.

I hate to trash wood (I've got the "Hey, I'll use this piece someday" disease), so I've got about 150 of them now. What to do with them? I'm open to suggestions

I thought about squaring them up (they have rounded corners when I bought them) and making some end grain cutting boards but I would think they would be nicer with a contrasting wood, which I don't have.

Anyone need any spindles? For you, great price.....$1.50/spindle....very good deal.

I also have about 150 ft of 2x4 (in various lengths) in mahogany too. Next up, I'll be taking off the mahogany 1x6 deck boards. I'd guess about 25-300 sq ft of that. And I plugged each hole with, yep you guessed it, a mahogany plug. About 1000 of the plugs to remove and then unscrew the boards.Anyone need any decking boards???

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Picture framing

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Anyone own and use a Logan 440-1 Team System Plus for cutting the mat windows?

I was given a bunch of mat boards and am wondering if this system is good enough to cut a clean, square, beveled window.

Appreciate your feedback.

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Template for Numbers?

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I want to make a plywood template for routing numbers for a new mailbox setup. But I am having a challenge finding printable numbers I can glue to plywood. I would then cut them out to make a template.
Any advice would be great!
Thanks!

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Texas burnt orange epoxy

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I am making a sign for the grandson of my best friend.
He is a student at UT and their color is burnt orange.
This is the sign after routing.


  Routed sign.jpg (Size: 152.34 KB / Downloads: 37)

I got some deep pour epoxy and tinted it with trans tint.
The color wasn't perfect in the spill over but in the groove it REALLY wasn't close.


  epoxy.jpg (Size: 176.87 KB / Downloads: 37)

First time I have done this.
I just got back from Rockler and they suggest using Mica pigment.
Anyone used that?
Can I mix a color with Mica?
Or can I use orange Mica and then black Trans tint for the burnt part?

Or does someone have any better ideas.

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My lamination adventure

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I had mentioned I'm trying to build a serpentine drawer sideboard to replace one (a piece of junk) we have in our dining room. The biggest challenge to this is the 2 serpentine drawers it has, this is how I did it. The existing drawers were bandsawn from solid piece of oak that was 3" thick, I really didn't want to do that...I didn't have stock thatthick and my bandsaw skills are not the greatest. Besides, I would have beenleft with some large surfaces to smooth out. So I decided (maybe incorrectly) to do mine as bent laminations with my vacuum press. I started out thinking I would use shop sawncherryfor all the plies and abandoned that not wanting to cut up that much cherry. Instead I purchased 1/6" thick poplar veneer for the core and then some cherry veneer for the facings.


  flattening veneer copy.JPG (Size: 847.65 KB / Downloads: 100)













So the first task was to try and get the veneer a little flatter than it was, it arrived in a tight coil. So I cut it to rough length and put it under some weight for a few days.




  flattening veneer copy.JPG (Size: 847.65 KB / Downloads: 100)



While that was sitting I went ahead and made the form. Solid MDF, this thing weights probably 50# and was a b*tchto handle getting into the vacuum bag.




  form copy.JPG (Size: 801.14 KB / Downloads: 100)



So I went ahead and made a test pressing with dry wood and found a few headaches. For one thing I couldn't do all the plies (12 of them, plus 2 pieces of cherry)at one time...I would have to do each piece as 2 pressings. Another problem that showed up was the shape itself. I found when drawing the vacuum, the center section (arrow) would go down slowly enough that the bag would be sucked in between the form and the plies, which meant I was getting the right profile. I tried several approaches to solving this and none worked. I probably should have asked herefor advice but I'm a little hardheaded to do such a thing. So I tried making some blocks that would hold the bag out of that opening.I wound up hanging them over the plies and they dropped (sortof )into place as the bag was drawn down.This did solve my problem but made putting the pieces into the vac bag a little more difficult.


  forminput copy.JPG (Size: 824.92 KB / Downloads: 100)
  gapblocks copy.JPG (Size: 788.17 KB / Downloads: 100)



So then I did a test pressing with glue and it came out not bad....you can see how the blocks fell into the opening.




  testpresing copy.JPG (Size: 845.83 KB / Downloads: 100)
  block3 copy.JPG (Size: 811.01 KB / Downloads: 100)

So after all this and 4 pressings, each taking over nightI wound up with the drawer fronts. I used Unibond 800 and they recommended for bent laminations you clamp itovernight.




  finale copy.JPG (Size: 835.45 KB / Downloads: 99)

I cut one edge off on the bandsaw, first step in the cleanup process and jointed that edge. You can see the plies are nice and tight. But that's as far as I got for now.

  plies copy.JPG (Size: 656.79 KB / Downloads: 101)

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I lost a good friend yesterday

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You may remember me mentioning from time to time that I have a friend who's an arborist. I get logs from him. Yesterday, he was killed on the job. I'm not sure I know the complete circumstances yet, but apparently the root ball of a downed tree let loose and the treefell on him. He was the most competent and safe tree guy I know.I'm at a loss to explain how it happened other than things happen out of our control sometimes.Two kids,elementary and middle school. What a tragedy. I'm heart broken.

John

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side mount vs undermount drawer slides

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I installed undermount drawer slides in my kitchen project (first time using them)and found them so easy and forgiving to install that it had me wishing thatI started using them years ago.
I did install a fewpull out shelves/drawers with side mount, thinking that they would be more heavy duty for the application I anticipate for those. Maybe they are a more heavy duty, but I probably don't really need them.

I have some other side mount drawer slides on handthat I will use up for shop cabinets someday, but other than that I don't know that I will ever use them again for regular drawers.
In comparison to undermount, the side mount drawer slides are a real pita to install and then also just to mount the drawer onto the slide.

Another lesson learned in this - don't try to save money on the rear bracket. At first I scoffed at the idea of buyingrear brackets for the undermount slides, thinking that I could just install a little shelf of sorts for the rear of the cabinet for theundermount drawer slide to sit on. I did and while it worked I alsofound that to be a pita to adjust, so I bought some rear mounting brackets to see if I'd like thoseand learned that the little cost on them was money well spent.

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Unibond 800 question

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I'm making some serpentine drawer front by laminating them in my vacuum press. I'd like to try some Unibond 800 to do this, so I'm looking for a source, as well as some info on the glue itself. this is, as I understand a 2 part adhesive. Do you get both parts when ordering? Second, I'm a little fuzzy about it's shelf life. Some of the info I found merely mentioned it gets opaque and thick when it's losing it's usefulness.Any idea on how long I can ex[ect it to keep (cool and dry, but not refrigerated)?Third, at least one reference mentioned using a foam roller to spread it, is that better than a glue roller?

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Unibind 800 question

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I'm making some serpentine drawer front by laminating them in my vacuum press. I'd like to try some Unibond 800 to do this, so I'm looking for a source, as well as some info on the glue itself. this is, as I understand a 2 part adhesive. Do you get both parts when ordering? Second, I'm a little fuzzy about it's shelf life. Some of the info I found merely mentioned it gets opaque and thick when it's losing it's usefulness.Any idea on how long I can ex[ect it to keep (cool and dry, but not refrigerated)?Third, at least one reference mentioned using a foam roller to spread it, is that better than a glue roller?

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