The Woodshop Shed

Bevels on a Right Tilt TS

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


I've shown this before, but it's been a while so I thought some might like to see how easy it is to safely make bevel cuts on a right tilt saw. You make a supplemental fence that clamps to the primary fence.



The bottom of the fence is just a smidge below the thickness of the material you're cutting. The left edgeof the blade is set to meet the bottom corner of the fence.



Then you just ride the edge of your workpiece against the fence. Your workpiece must be the final dimensionsif you are beveling opposite sides because the process does not change the dimensions of the part. That's a very good thing. If your workpiece has the correct dimensions before cutting the bevels, it will after cutting, too. And you can run parts of any size, provided you have enough support on the left side;there's no need to adjust the fence for different size parts.

The offcut falls harmlessly under the fence, so there's no danger of kickback.



If the workpiece happens to lift up during the cut, the part ends up with less bevel cut in that area. But you can make the cut again to get it perfect. If that happens making the cut on the right side of the blade, you have a ruined part.

Many folks don't like a right tilt saw because it's not easy to cut bevels. With this supplemental fence, it's just as easy as with a left tilt saw and offers additional advantages.

John

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Building an Urn

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


My FIL passed away last week. I am building an urn. I want a hexagonal shape. I wanted the top to be a hexagonal cone. I am going to try to find someone in my area with a CNC. I am having trouble visualizing the jig I'd need to carve this with a router. I think it would be a combination of a flattening and circle jig with the flattening jig fixed at the slope I need. I was thinking cut the hexagon first and have the jig register on each side.A CNC would likely give better results.


  Screenshot 2026-07-11 at 11.32.11AM.png (Size: 70.61 KB / Downloads: 74)

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first

Metal ceiling in workshop?

Furnished content.
(from WoodNet.net)


A friend of mine has a metal ceiling in his detached garage/barn. It looks good.
It had me considering installing metal instead of drywall for the ceiling in my barn workshop. But what might be potential concerns with having a metal ceiling in a workshop?
Mine will be 12' from the floor.

If I were to do drywall I would trim it out instead of mudding 1000sf of ceiling and only mud over the screws.
I found scratch n dent sources of metal sheets that significantly close the gap between the cost of metal and drywall at the box stores. I will still have to paint it because the source I found currently doesn't have white. Plus I will want a flat ceiling white and not the typical glossy look of factory painted metal. I'll also have to paint over scratches that are either already there or that I cause during installation.
I figure that if I install metal that I'll only have to trim the perimeter or use J channel. Another advantage over drywall ceiling is that I don't need as many ceiling joists. DW will require 16of but My friend has his metal ceiling screw runs 48 apart. I might do 24 though because I just want the extra support for me when I climb up there to put down insulation. Plus I might want to use the space for some light storage.
Anywho - back to sharing thoughts, considerations, and potential concerns regarding a metal ceiling.
Thanks

Read more here

Comments:
0 comments, click here to add the first