Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)
Hi All,I decided to update my shooting board as I was getting poor miter results from my old ramped shooting board.I started the new board by cutting 3/4” Baltic birch plywood into the required dimensions for the design. I then laminated 1/4” red oak veneer on the faces and bottoms of the components and then ran them through my jointer and planer to make sure every thing was square and true. I then laminated 1/8” red oak on the ends.I made the 90 degree miter wedge out of 1 1/2” red oak and that is attached to the middle of the board with 1/4-20 brass inserts and bolts at 45 degrees. I made adjustable faces for the wedge which are also attached with 1/4-20 brass inserts and bolts which move in a slot.I routed a groove on the far end for a 90 degree stop block so I could shoot 90 degree cross grain and long grain.I also routed 2 Micro Jig dovetail grooves parallel to the shooting edge.I made a press board out of 3/16” stock and slotted with 1/4-20 brass inserts and bolts it so I can adjust it to keep my plane tight to the cutting edge.To use this board for mitering, you set up the wedge so its 45 degrees to the edge with a square and then the piece being mitered on the left in the top view picture is planed normally until it's a perfect 45 degree miter. the piece on the right in the top view picture is set against the wedge and then a stop block with a 45 degree miter is clamped with a Micro jig clamp to the back of the piece to hold it tight to the wedge and also prevent blow out.This method allows me to use my Veritas shooting plane on both pieces being mitered which normally you couldn't do because it's a right hand plane and you cant turn it around to miter the piece on the right.I didn't make a donkey ear for this board yet, but plan on doing so.As you can see in the pics, it works great! Nice tight miters! I'm so glad I did this project!