Plywood Gripe
Furnished content. (from WoodNet.net)
I'm trying to get back into woodworking after 4 or 5 years off. I need some plywood to build some shop cabinets. My options are sanded ply from Home Depot for $50 a sheet - but of course it's warped. Or cabinet grade from a lumber yard for $130 a sheet. I guess I just need to bite the bullet.
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posted at: 12:00am on 09-Jan-2023 path: /Woodworking | permalink | edit (requires password)
Applied drawer bead
Furnished content. (from WoodNet.net)
Hi,
I have a few vintage pieces with serpentine drawers and applied beads. I assume there are dadoes for these because I stripped the paint on these and none came off. Must be some specialized equipment to make the dado.
I'm planning on duplicating a stain grade cabinet I saw that has a rectangular bead, the bead looks to be about 1/4" wide so easier (second picture). The drawer is bow front. Would this be done with a router + edge guide? Since so much work would go into the drawer front before routingI'm guessing some dedicated jig might be a better choice thenan edge guide. Is an upcut spiral bit the best choice to reduce tearout? Might not do this at all depending on how difficult and how it looks without.
Edit - actually I looked at another similar cabinet from that site and I can see some of those applied pieces are missing and there is a shadow where they used to be so the ones shown in the second picture are likely just glued/pinned.
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posted at: 12:00am on 09-Jan-2023 path: /Woodworking | permalink | edit (requires password)
embedding nuts in a work bench
Furnished content. (from WoodNet.net)
I just sold a work bench in the S@S section of this forum. And I got a questionfrom a person who has purchased some Moxon hardware from me. the question is how do I embed the nuts.
I have been building for 50 years now and I am out of room to build anything more for the house including the kitchen cabinets. The bench is the4th work bench I have sold. I still have one for myselfAnd I like building work benches. I plan on building and selling more.
First of all I prefer a bench with a shoulder vise, a tail vise and square dog holes. Round dog holes are much easier to put in, But if one purchasesround dogs they are much harder to move up and down and to me a real pain in the behind. If you disagree with me andprefer a different type of top, or vise, or like round dogs, please feel free to do so by writing about it in your own post. This post is about building a moxon vise into the work bench, not adding one after the fact.
I do like a shoulder vise and the vise screwon my present bench I shortened the shoulder vise screw I purchased from Lee Valley by 2 inches. I like to get up close and personal when cutting dovetails. I at my age I find I have to lean over to far when using the shoulder vise.
Here is a picture of my first moxon vise.
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The things I like about it is I can screw the studs in far enough that only a small length of thread sticks out, ON the other hand it is to big and bulky I have to get clamps out and storing takes up a lot of room
I can drill a hole the size of the flats on the nutsand chisel out the rest so I can insert the nut. I dowel the board onto the rest of the top and the board that goes on after to my holes will line up. I drill a hole the rest of the way into the bench so I can thread to screw in as far as I want. The length of the tread sticking out should be adjustable, The first picture is from a different bench
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I use 3nuts One in the middle so it becomes a vise for a vise up to 12 inches wide. The key comes out and moved over to the position for a 24 inch wide vise. That way the chop needs only to be 1 inch thick and not thicker. The bench backs up the back jaw and it only needs to be 1 inch also.
The next ting it to find the rightheight for sawing. I like my elbowto be at 90 degrees. The keys peel the board being cut in the correct orientation for cutting. I like standing when cutting. If you like setting then find the height when setting. The floor may not be level so the bench top may not be level but the top ofthe rear jaw was planed lever before the keys were cut.
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And a finished vise.
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And one last thing to plan for, hold fasts.
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I hope I have answered the personsquestion. If not let me know
Tom
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posted at: 12:00am on 09-Jan-2023 path: /Woodworking | permalink | edit (requires password)
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