The Woodshop Shed

adventures in woodworking and home maintenance, from my shop in an oversized backyard shed

September 2022
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A Box Joint Jig

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


A Box Joint JigRecently I made some projects for my gift on the BEER BQ SWAP 2022After starting elsewhere I decided to make a project with some box joints. I have made them in the past, but had not for quite some time. So I dug out my faithful I Box jig. I'd forgotten I had lent it to a friend, got it back pretty quick, but hadn't really checked it out since I had it back. Seems it was “injured” in use, but the screw that basically makes it so adjustable is wrecked, no idea how it happened? Incra is unsure too, but like a classy company are trying to help me get it fixed. Still wanted to make box joints, so I did it how I used to, made a wooden jig.I beefed mine up quite a bit more than many I see made, and used a lot of thoughts I try to incorporate into any wooden jig I make, to try to bomb proof it as much as I can. Wooden jigs get the bad rep of failing too quickly. I'm trying to see if this is just because it's wood, or if it's construction. Not throwing down on anyone, just something I thought about when I was thinking how to proceed.I started with a BB base of 3'4” ply, wanted it good and strong. Made runners from QS White Oak, a hard enough wood, with excellent wear characteristics. The QS was for stability against movement. Making it in the heat and HUMIDITY of the Summer I am expecting it to if anything become smaller in the drier Winter. I am perfect right now, and this thing glides smoother than most any jig I've ever made, even using adjustable guide bars.On the leading front edge I added the front fence, simply to maintain the spread of the first kerf cut, hopefully all the length from front to back, nothing more.I made a fence of 2 thicknesses of glued up BB 3/4” plywood for stability, and my sub fence is 3/4” BB ply with a cut in 1/4” with a well fitted 1/4” plug. I keep the height of it to 1/4” also, so I can do smaller 1/4” or 3/4” tall on the same jig. Depending on thickness of stock.I did my assembly, and got 2 pieces of stock I'd planed down to the thickness I planned to use, set my blade height just to barely go over the stock, and locked it down. I'd earlier cut in my 1/4” pin, and spaced it as closely as I could without deflecting the blade to be between my blade, and the pin I had inserted using a 1/4” aluminum spacer bar I have a set of, and will always use rather than try to use a tape measure to measure things. I tried to show that pic at the start. Due to grain on the ply, it makes it a little wobbly to look at though.I did a test cut after that. First you strike a line on the solid fence, across the stationary fence with the pin in it. You can see it in the pic from the back side. As you can tell I didn't need to move the fence with the pin for any adjustment. Using my 1/4” set up block, did the job perfectly, and the first test pieces I made ended up in a finished project. Perfecto Luckyo, I'd rather be lucky than good, any day. :-)The rest of this sleds story is that beer swap. It allowed me to make perfectly matching Box joints in 3 different materials, of 3 different thicknesses. All I had to do was lay the new stock down next to the blade, and elevate, or lower it till it barely was over the width of the stock. You can make your cuts way over the line, and have a log cabin look, or spot on, and have little to no sanding to do to flatten them to the sides of the work, Your choice. Most try them a bit over, and sand them back to flush, Doing this allows any repair to the joints if your gap size isn't dead on.The other part of this jig, is also a recent product review I did about the amazing saw blade I used for all of this. It's from Infinity Tools. It's their 8” Flat top grind 0.25” kerf blade. So it makes perfect 1/4” flat topped saw cuts. Review is found here. The answer to the question I ask there, at least for me, is a resounding YES, it's a blade I am very glad I bought.Last word is about safety. On any sled I make I ALWAYS add a block on the back side as a blade guard. It's only a scrap of wood, but once you make your cuts through the ends of your stock, you can hear a sound difference, and you can quit pushing, there is a decided feel if you keep going, because you are sawing further into the fence than normally. My stop block is just insurance if I am not paying attention. Like I said it's just a scrap of wood, but instead of your finger getting cut, it could possibly be your gut. Always be safe, always pay attention to every cut, and always use a piece of scrap to give yourself the best chance not to get hurt.

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posted at: 12:00am on 13-Sep-2022
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Shingle Art

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(from Lumberjocks.com)


Shingle ArtCedar shingle art project

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Carving Incised Letters

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


Create artistic signs the old-fashioned way. You can churn out lettered signs by the dozens with a router and a set of letter templates or produce them by the hundreds with a CNC machine. So why use any other method? …Source

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Budget Spring Clamp

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(from Popularwoodworking.com)


This light-duty clamp is ideal for small parts-and easy to make by the dozen. All you need are a couple wood scraps, a rubber band, and a short piece of dowel rod. You can vary the pressure by changing the …Source

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posted at: 12:00am on 13-Sep-2022
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