I made this boring bar for our shop in Az. It has an arm welded on to resist the torque when boring the inside of a piece. I had to make a piece to try it on so I picked one of the cherry pieces that was roughed out years ago. I found that the 1/2” carbide cutter with a very positive rake is really too aggressive in there. I'll be ordering some flat top carbide scraper discs.This was inspired by one I think LJ Zagreb has. The spring “feeler” is used to gage the wall thickness. When it straightens out, you are there!.The handle was made from 2 pieces of pistachio wood glued together and is finished with Kustom Grit and finally Shellawax.Cheers, Jim
No 2 Son asked for a new shower base for his camping getaways. I made the original one in Jun 2015 from some spotted gum flooring left over from his house renos. I cut the “slats” using my finger joint saw kit so 50% of them were against the grain creating a weak spot in the design and it eventually started to fail. (see picture 6) As I had made him some Red Iron Bark camping mallets he asked for the same material.So being the dutiful father I set to work (see picture 5) the slats were all cut and ended up being 9mm x 20mm (see picture 4)I then spaced them out using the few defective slats that I cut for the purposeNow the glue up posed a bit of a thinking exercise and I eventually used a few pavers as weights and my table saw top as a level datum base.The slat section was purposely made oversize as i didnt bother trying to find my original design plansUpon confirming the original dimensions cut the slat section to size. ( see picture 3)I then made the frame.I decided to use 45% miter joints and screw them together so later maintenance could be done, but this proved to be a fail as the timber split even after I pre drilled everything.So work stopped while I pondered a suitable fix.Eventually I figured out as I had pre drilled and countersunk everything the only way out of the botch up was to use a 10mm forstner bit clamp the frame and drill dowel holes to hide the mess.Finishing:- Another learning curve here …. never attempt to sand slats with a ROS!So back inside I go to lick my wounds and figure a solution.Next day out came my drum sander.The finished product got a series of external clear poly and was looking good at last (See picture 1)BTW Its bloody cold here 3 to 8 deg over night so I am getting my flannelette sheets out and running the A/C to try and get the chill out of a morning!
I needed to make three window sashes because the basement windows are toast. I guess they lasted for 104 years is not bad. The hardest part was the setup. You have to setup the table for the tenon. Then the drill press for the mortise which I have a mortising attachment. The setup the two router bits. The poplar was free leftovers from the table I sold. The glass was the most expensive part at $15 a pane.
I made this boring bar for our shop in Az. It has an arm welded on to resist the torque when boring the inside of a piece. I had to make a piece to try it on so I picked one of the cherry pieces that was roughed out years ago. I found that the 1/2” carbide cutter with a very positive rake is really too aggressive in there. I'll be ordering some flat top carbide scraper discs.This was inspired by one I think LJ Zagreb has. The spring “feeler” is used to gage the wall thickness. When it straightens out, you are there!.The handle was made from 2 pieces of pistachio wood glued together and is finished with Kustom Grit and finally Shellawax.Cheers, Jim
No 2 Son asked for a new shower base for his camping getaways.
I then spaced them out using the few defective slats that I cut for the purpose
Now the glue up posed a bit of a thinking exercise and I eventually used a few pavers as weights and my table saw top as a level datum base.
The slat section was purposely made oversize as i didnt bother trying to find my original design plansUpon confirming the original dimensions cut the slat section to size. ( see picture 3)I then made the frame.
I decided to use 45% miter joints and screw them together so later maintenance could be done, but this proved to be a fail as the timber split even after I pre drilled everything.
So work stopped while I pondered a suitable fix.Eventually I figured out as I had pre drilled and countersunk everything the only way out of the botch up was to use a 10mm forstner bit clamp the frame and drill dowel holes to hide the mess.Finishing:-
So back inside I go to lick my wounds and figure a solution.Next day out came my drum sander.
The finished product got a series of external clear poly and was looking good at last (See picture 1)
BTW Its bloody cold here 3 to 8 deg over night so I am getting my flannelette sheets out and running the A/C to try and get the chill out of a morning!
I needed to make three window sashes because the basement windows are toast. I guess they lasted for 104 years is not bad. The hardest part was the setup. You have to setup the table for the tenon. Then the drill press for the mortise which I have a mortising attachment. The setup the two router bits. The poplar was free leftovers from the table I sold. The glass was the most expensive part at $15 a pane.