Here's the completed carving from the Dave Stetson Santa carving class I completed a couple of weeks ago, along with some progress photos. Dave is a great instructor, and the Zoom classes were interesting and useful. He has his phone mounted vertically above his carving table, and has iPad or computer at eye level just off to one side. The phone shows his hands while he's carving, and when he is explaining something or showing the class carving options, or reference books or whatever, the Zoom operator switches the views to the computer/iPad and then back to the phone as appropriate. Students can ask questions at any time, and Dave tries to answer all of them. After a session is over, the recording of it is put online so the class students can access it and watch as many times as necessary while carving…Dave is holding another class soon. For info, search Facebook for “Dave Stetson” or use this link: https://www.facebook.com/dave.stetson.14I fastened the roughout to my Eli vise at the start – because of the nature of the duplicator machine, the base sloped up towards the feet. I shaved it down flat using a carpenter chisel and my mallet.Roughout mounted… Dave's roughout gave us the option of carving Santa with a stocking cap on his head, or holding it in his hand. Another option was to carve an ornament or something else from the hanging hat… I chose the hat on head optionDrawing in the facial features, flow lines on the beard, etc. You can see here the result of carving away the slope on the base: Santa's boots are abnormally thick, so they'll be carved down later.Gouging out the area between the legs. Carving is pretty much complete here – other than a few more details Back view Finished photos The wreath is an add-on from the doll house furnishing collection at the hobby store. I thought this instruction was well worth the cost and I learned a lot…Claude
Designed this step stool to have a classic look and have now made it out of several different types of wood – QS Oak, Red Oak, Maple, Walnut and Maple. Everything connects through joinery and no screws are used. Here is a link to how I built it. https://youtu.be/HepMK28-3Xg
Various types of lazy susans 45 and 50 cm in diameter. Various types of woods : walnut, cherry, ash, wenge, padauk. 3mm beech plywood edge , three layers, on last photo. 4'' rotating mechanisam from E-Bay. Wooden cup holders were turned just to fit each type of cheramic cup. Compartment fences were glued, stapled and screwed. All circles were cut on bandsaw with circle making jig. Pyrography sign on last photo. Finish food friendly wood oil.
Its been a long trip to get this done! Three years ago we had to cut to big trees to make our house, cut then in planks and air dried them. Back then I had asked for a 4” plank from the pine tree to make this bench legs! The top I laminated from a 2” thick harder wood. After many designs I came up with this I already have a low roman bench thats very practical for planning and other stuff. I made this bench to do all the other things.All the joinery was made by hand tools. Let me tell you this, I underestimated the fisical work involved in making this bench.The hole bench can be disassemble in less than a minute. It weighs about 80Kg. I plan to have it outside in summer and inside in winter.
The finish was 1:1 tung oil and vegetable turpintine Hope you enjoy it!I plan to make some dogholes for the holdfasts and keep on adding stuff to make it a handy little workbench out of it!
Not much to say here, just a simple wood mallet for my chisels. I used scrap hardwood that we had laying around, I'm not even sure what two kinds I used for this :) I love those black stripes on the outside pieces.
Recently, my boys have been using their shop time to work on wooden swords to play with. This has been their biggest and most time consuming project so far. To start, Dad cut two strips of 3/4 plywood I had left over from my sawhorse build. Then we cut printer paper to the same width as the swords, folded it in half vertically and designed one side our handle shape, and the shapes at the base of the blades. We cut out our designs and unfolded the paper, giving us a symmetrical stencil to trace onto the wood. I helped out by using the jig saw to cut the handles then the boys sanded down their swords and created the edges of the “blade” before using the wood burner to make the lines and shapes down the center of each side. They picked out some more scrap to smooth out and make finger guards from, sho shugi'ed them and stained them with the colors of their choosing. My youngest also used green to color wash the wood burned portion because “c'mon mom, if it isn't a full blown poison sword then what good is it, anyway?”. I second that notion, young sir. So now we're closing in on the end of this project, we threw on some stain, glued the guards to the hilts and coated the each sword in polyurethane. For the final step, I wrapped the handles with 550 so there was no chance of splinters. They're pretty proud! Now if anyone has any tips to spruce up my tired, 100 year old wood floor then let me know in the comments, please! I know you lumber jocks noticed it in the pictures! :)Sorry for the sideways picture, the uploader kept doing it for whatever reason.
3-legged box, inspired by the work of Cindy Pei-si Young.This box is a little over 6” tall, and 2-1/4” in diameter. The body is Maple, the lid and bottom are Cherry, the legs & splines are Walnut, and the finial is Ebony. Finish is Danish oil.
I saw a simulation of the Whitworth mechanism on Youtube, and decided I could convert it to a hand-cranked wood model for the kids.The colored parts are all hard maple, the rest is white oak.I scroll sawed the 3 gears. I generated the gear design using free program GearDXF.Exe, print it on paper, then white Elmer's glue paper pattern to gear blank, drill the axle hole, scroll saw cut the gear, then wash off excess paper with wet rag.Grandkids should have fun with this one…........and no batteries are ever required !!You can see a Youtube video of the model in action using this link.For details on how I designed and build this model, see my woodworking web site using this link.Thanks
Quick project. Wanted to keep my grilling potions in one box. Separately, tired of digging into a cardboard box for my coffee sugar. Sounds like I need a box or two. Or maybe more…. I might continue this for all my kitchen-type stuff. After all, as my kids used to say, if it is worth doing, it is worth overdoing….I used HD's finest—a pine 2×6, cut on edge to get it quartersawn grain—mitered at the corners. Actually a bit surprised that the grain was so nice and straight and tight. The large box sides consist of two pieces glued up, with a walnut spline, just for the heck of it. It has a rabbeted bottom to take a piece of 1/4 maple ply; the sugar box simply has a piece of pine glued to the bottom.I found this a nice exercise in working with small pieces and cutting tight miters. Took almost no time at all and the immediate gratification was a bonus.
Here's a quick project for the gentleman my son bought his new house from. He saw the koozies my son and I were using and he thought they were the coolest thing. He says he loves his beer and he loves his pot. He's a good guy so I decided he should have one. It's made of Osage and finished with polyurethane. There was enough Osage to make a small bowl with lid so I'll give him that too. He can put his pot in there or whatever. A couple beers and a smoke and he'll be on his way. LOL.
This was for someone who wanted to match their existing Teak furniture. Red Zebrawood (Ebiara)was added as a highlight. A frame and panel for the doors would have worked fine but I opted instead for panels with breadboard ends and a Wenge highlight to separate the two woods. A bit trickier to do but it was a more fun process and look.
Built a little box to hold a bottle of (red) wine. I got tired of my older design with the sliding lid, and wanted to try something new. There are two oak uprights staked into the oak bottom of the box with wedged tenons. Used my hollow auger to make the round tenons, and then drilled holes to fit. Three sides of pine from a board that turned into a potato chip when I tried dovetailing it for a bookcase are glued into grooves cut in the uprights. Waste not want not. And then the lid, which makes up the front and top (waterfall grain, donchaknow), and which connects to the bottom with a mortise and tenon, and latches to the back to hold it closed.The bottom has a hand-carved inset to keep the bottle of wine in place, and the box is a tight enough fit that I should be able to transport a bottle to a neighbor's without mishap, if things ever get to the point that we can socialize with the neighbors again.The whole thing was planed smooth before being assembled, hand-sanded with a 400 grit sanding block (no matter how sharp the plane blade, I can't manage to smooth that spalted elm with a plane), then got four or five coats of shellac and got glued together. The little diagonal braces are pieces of thick bubinga veneer I had left over after reinforcing my brace till – they went on kinda late in the game when I realized my miter joint wasn't going to be very strong, especially as the spalted elm feels about like balsa wood (but it drank a few ounces of shellac, so that firmed it up a bit). There's a cheap little latch I bought a dozen of a while back because I needed one, but didn't like the looks of the price for one, so bought a dozen to get the volume discount.I think that's about it. It's not a great design, but it's different, and it distracted me from bookcases for a week. Don't know if I'll make another like it, or whether it'll be a one-off-kind.
Hi:I recently completed a project for my wife… a plant stand made from wine barrel staves.I used wine barrel lids for the two platforms, and staves for the legs, as well as barrel bands for around the legs.The result is a sturdy and attractive – in a artisan sort of way – plant stand that will last many decades.Clear finish – Varathane Professional, satin.Height is 36”. Base platform is 15” and top platform is 12”
This is a basic woodworking mallet useful in joinery and chisel work. I started with a salvaged piece of hardwood. The species is unknown to me. I cut the head to shape, resulting in tapered faces and a slightly rounded top. Then I marked layout lines for a tapered handle. The waste for this mortise was removed with an auger bit in a brace. Next I chopped the mortise, keeping the lines in the top and bottom openings parallel as I crept up on the layout lines. A tapered handle was made out of oak: 1 1/2” at the top, 1 1/14” at the bottom, 15 inches long. I planed the handle square and smooth, with chamfered edges on the gripping surfaces. The mallet head was shaped by adding curved chamfers on the main edges and 45* chamfers on the striking faces. I finished it with boiled linseed oil. Two pieces of wood, properly shaped and joined with one mortise, become a very functional and useful tool. It has great balance when the mallet is gripped up under the head. But it has powerful striking force when the grip is moved nearer the bottom of the handle. Fun project for me.
Built my Garage cabinets this past few weeks. I know folks here are not a fan of melamine particle board, but it was the perfect material for my project. I have learned a lot from this forum especially one post that recommended using Confirmat Screws & Pozi driver. I am glad I used them, as it made the assembly a breeze.3 stars to you, if you can identify the boo-boo I made (hint: holes). I had to re-cut one more side piece for the rightmost box to fix my error.The most frustrating part of this build was the installation. The back wall was so twisty curvy in all directions. Since these cabinets were screwed into the wall as I wanted them off the ground, I had to cut custom depth shims for each screw. keeping it square throughout the length and breadth of 92×128 inches of this monster was a PITA.
I saw some projects on another forum by Dick Miraglia which were scroll saw carved fretwork. I knew that I needed to try it but on something simple.I started with 1 inch thick poplar and first cut out the fretwork. Following this was a lot of carving that I did with a Dremel Flex Shaft. The background is about 1/4” thick so the pumpkin sticks out about 3/4”. It was painted with acrylic paints and top coated with shellac. I used Fairy LED lights to light it up and found a set which does several different blinking patterns and has a remote control.
Boys and Girls,Found with the introduction of C19, I'm starting to regress as I find using my fountain pen
progressively challenging. With all this bloody politically correct propaganda, I could no longer find a reliable supplier of Indian Ink
for my pen(s)... yep, that's real blotting paper in front of the black... (and the biro blotting paper is in front of the blue).Poor diet and two much alcohol has put me in the Delorean with Marty McFly and made me reach for the chalk and blackboard only to find I have developed a C19 ”panic grip” and kept breaking my chalk,
Having no crayons and whiteboard marker tips got abraded by the texture of the blackboard I needed to stiffen up my chalk perhaps put some lead into it?I was forced to resort to the keyboard as my primary mode of literacy. Unfortunately, a keyboard under my armpit in the workshop needed a better portable alternative… even when I replaced my keyboard with a wireless one. To set the mood music, let me explain why this project came into fruition due to C19... Lockdown has forced me into making some pens and quickly realised my old sponge sanding pads for acrylics needed replacement the before and after,
(Shizen, that's worse than my ROS discs were before I discovered Abranet and started to extend disc life .) While ordering a couple of sets of the pads, I came across these ”Chalk Holder Kits”,
and I didn't have to call to Alexa to,
and it miraculously finished up on the order bugger, another set of bushings I had to find a slot for, Ignoring SketchUp as the build was already preordained, chucked up the lathe and walked away with a curvatious blank, made out of my favourite Black Palm material,
along with a practice pine, Bypassed my traditional SketchUp first stop, did a bee line (past the Manuka),
and headed straight for CorelDraw where the design for LBD
using the Brushed font was framed.Exported to the laser and made several cuts in the test pine blank, to determine positioning,
which was a total waste of time as I screwed up centering on the main blank,
(I repositioned the laser manually by 10mm to the left to better center the letters… and then the vino made me move it another 10mm through the program. DOH!)While I love Black Palm, it's a bugger to work with and does tend to leave hairline gaps on the surface. On hindsight I should have filled these gaps with a mix of ebony, walnut and jarrah wood filler, as they finished up getting filled with the white filler used for the lettering. Not that it was that bad, however, there was one gap that needed to be scraped out and re-filled, The filler (white) was sanded flush with the surface, coated with 20 layers of CA and BLO mix finish. It was then sanded with the 6 grades (two sided) of these sanding pads designed for acrylics,
and finally polished with auto cutting paste.This picture with better lighting may reveal why I like the Black Palm, At the end of the day, or end of the morning on the other side of my planet, this Chalk Holder will come in handy for all those panel mark-ups before glue-ups and countless other workshop uses it can't be used for.Keep safe jocks... or keep jocks safe, if you venture out and run the C19 gauntlet.
I made these shutters for my in-laws for their 3 season trailer in Cape May. My mother in-law wanted something different to make their place stand out from all the others. Finished with a waterproof paint to withstand the elements.
Matchbox Toy Garage – An Old Iconic Australian Service Station – Golden Fleece..I've forgotten how many of these I've made and given away, but this one is for the Local Community Clubs Christmas Raffle, my wife asked me if I could make one and I chose the theme of an old iconic Australian Service Station Roadhouse.I found all the images on the internet, scaled and printed them to detail the garage. The paint colours were an issue but one of the local paint & decorator shops matched sample pots of the blue & yellow livery of the Golden Fleece perfectly.I've had a bit of fun with the Springwood sign post as Springwood never had a Golden Fleece Service Station neither was it the last service station for the next 750 miles as you entered the Outback.Along with that I had to add a few icon Australian brands; Peter's & Arnott's. And some special brands to me; Peterbilt, Ford, Goodyear.And YES, Handy was a good assistant on this project.Should be a top Christmas Present for some family along with a good Fund raiser for the club.
This is a stock I made for my Remington 700 7mm mag action and barrel. First stock I've made, pretty happy with the results. Made it with walnut and birch ply's. I did most of the in-letting with hand tools. I glass bedded the action and finished with multiple coats of Birchwood Casey tru oil. I've put about 10 rounds through it so far, it shot pretty good and that's before I glass bedded the action.
Well I could have named it What another Box! or how to waste a week, instead of just 1 trip to the Otto bin.But what the heck I enjoyed myselfThe timber: A recycled Red Ironbark house stump. (AKA Mugga) Age: Estimated to be 80 years old possibly older, calculated on developments in the areaThe process sequence of events and most of the tools used: Wire brush: to remove initial crud Metal detector: to find any surprises lurking below Table Saw: to cut into usable slabs and groove the posts Jointer: to flatten and square Thicknesser: to uniform the dimensions Router: to profile the edges Bandsaw; to cut the onlays Disc Sander: to profile the onlays and posts Various Sanders: to prep the surface for finishing. ( minus the one somebody pinched) Tweesers: for pulling out recalcitrant splinters Polishing Kit: for raw polishing the wood to its final finish Kreg stuff: to use as a squaring platform Clamps: everybody uses clamps Glue: as above and….Beer!Not a lot of prattle here but the process is the subject to a series of blogsTime: Kept me amused/thinking for almost 1 week Material cost: Nil Equipment cost: massive wear and tear this stuff is hard as and almost as bad as Ebony.Possibly will not make history for the highest bid at the Christies fine furniture auction but it was fun!Post edit:I would be remiss of me if I didn't acknowledge a few LJs that inspired me to produce the final ProjectOhad Milner for the onlays LBD for trying to put a lid on it Big Al for infecting me with the Box virus and other LJs that commented and encouraged the craftsmanship to continue (as below)Thank you all !
Build this on request from my daughter, my grandson didn't seem to like his plastic stool as it was to flimsy.This stool was made with Baltic birch plywood, the top is 16”w x 10” deep, it is about 7 1/2 inches high, the sides are splayed out at a 10 degree angle.The design is my own after obsessing over the various plans that I scrounged from the internet. I liked the semi-circle cut outs on some, the splayed sides on others, the hand-hole on the top and pocket hole joinery made it a faster build.I really like the look of Baltic birch, finished with a clear or semi transparent finish but my daughter wanted it white.Really sturdy!
Instead of buying one, I decided to make my own version. I never used one of these before and found it drastically improves the cut on the table saw eliminating burning and stop points from the blade and also improves safety. It's a must-have for the shop!! The only thing you have to get used to is passing your hand over the top of the spinning blade. It's totally safe but just feels weird when you're not used to it. I didn't use plans, I just looked at the commercial version and figured out what I wanted the dimensions to be. I made up a few different sized material push hooks for varying situations and on-board storage for them on the stability wing. I used an old trowel handle and secured it on a slight angle to remind me to keep pushing it into the fence as well as forward through the cut.Overall a fun project and I cannot say enough about how great this thing works!Regards, Hutch
2 nightstands sized to fit the space. Solid walnut frame and top with mahogany veneer panels. Next piece (8-drawer dresser for my wife) is almost done. Just a few coats of finish left to go. Last piece will be my matching 5 drawer high-boy dresser.
Grandson is into dinos and Jurrasic World movie so its painted to look like the one in the movie. 1/2” plywood, real ATV wheels. Found the plans online. Altered the design of the grill to give it some depth
Made this 3-legged hexagonal sort-of-Japanese-karabitsu to hold the tank for our little propane grill.I'm very happy I got the face grain of the plywood to flow around the corners. A hexagonal box actually uses less wood than a square box. A handy calculator I found on the web was able to suggest a good width for the panels. I was able to get the walls of this piece from a single quarter-sheet of 3/8” plywood from the orange store. The rest was all surplus from other projects.It's all finished inside and out with spar urethane, so it should be OK spending the winter outside after the grill goes into storage.A little more info and one more picture in the blog post on my personal blog – http://www.ee0r.com/blog-new/hexagonal-propane-box/
Hi all,Been awhile since I have posted anything, but just finished one of the largest pieces that I have built. This is an executive desk for my home office. Overall dimensions are 66 wide, 34 deep and 31 tall. It Breaks down into 4 major pieces. The top, the 2 banks of drawers and the middle panel that joins the 2 banks of drawers.Constructed from SYP 2×12s from HD, the legs are 2x2 with a cove cut on outside corners for visual interest and a 1/8 round over. All other pieces are 7/8 with the same round over. The bottom stretchers all have a curve that was drawn with a shop made drawing bow and cut on the bandsaw. I faired the curves with a spokeshave and sanding. The carcasses are assembled with mortise and tenon joinery. I got lazy on the drawers, and I assembled them with 1/2 ply and butt joints screwed together. The drawer fronts are 7/8 with a 1/2 round over and a rabbetted bottom.The carcasses have 3/8 panels that are are set into frames. All drawer slides are wooden and shop made. I sanded everything to 220 and stained with Minwax Red Oak. The finish is Minwax Satin poly. Mixed 1/2 & 1/2 with mineral spirits. Wiped on with t-shirt scraps. 5 coats with a light 0000 steel wool sanding between each.I have a lot of pics. I am going to add them below.
As this whole isolation thing has gone on, I've been upgrading my video conferencing capabilities. The hard part is that once a week I do voice lessons using a low-latency audio technology called Jamulus, and we use Zoom for the video. So we put Jamulus on a computer, and Zoom on the tablet, and I've gotten tired of propping up the tablet against books or whatever to try to point it at me.I also had this old Kodak flash bulb holder that I thought would make a killer light.So I took some LED strip lights, wrapped them around a black dowel to turn the flash holder into a light. Then rummaged through the scrap pile and built some tripods and holders, I think there's walnut and maple and white oak and cherry and sapele in this.Suddenly my singing lessons are boosted to the next level!
I built an office desk for my girlfriend. Its a pretty simple design and was all done with minimal tools. It is incredibly sturdy and would recommend this to anyone that is looking to build their own desk. It was about $100 or less in materials if I remember correctly.Here's a link to the video where you can watch the build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rqPTza_L-8&t=186sEnjoy!
I'm more of a furniture maker, but just thought I'd share this with y'all. I purchased some Red Grandis for a furniture project. Most of the wood was acceptable with a bit of work … no big deal. However, there was a 2 ft piece that was giving me grief. I would flatten it to and within a day or so it would twist. I flattened it a bit more and after another day or so … more twist. My last try I flattened it to a thickness … and it was flat. That is until 2 days later that twist showed up. I live in California… there is no humidity nor rain obvious by the fires.My wife has been asking for a grilling plank. I have the perfect one. These are normally cedar, but I've seen them made of maple, walnut, & oak so why not Red Grandis. I washed it and soaked it for about 4 hours and then an additional 30 minutes in white wine (the cheapest I could find). Then gave it to my wife. That salmon was the best we've had in a long time.Try it sometime.
All started in spring, noticed the roof of the old garden shed)Plastic:() had holes in it from hail. Thought about going out to the coast to get some 6” x 6” Cedar posts to match the other shed in the back yard but new truck with short box may have trouble bringing home 10 footers? So went with 4” x 6” Pt but made the mistake of waiting too long to start, appears wood shortages and 200% price increase has made this a rather expensive little project. 2' x 4” framed inside with 1/2” plywood on the walls with 2” x 6” roof with 3/4” T&G Plywood coated with Deckover. Railing is stained 2” x 4” Pt with Titan Snap 'N Lock Baluster System from Lee Valley. Received the Grangirls approval except that one of them wants a Slide to get down easier, I was thinking Zip Line?
First off there is a lot of wood working involved here. The carcass of the BOX is MDFWanted to post what I am using my 2 Sidewinder 3D Printers X-1s on this week. I use these machines for the most part to print parts used in products I made for sale on Etsy that I could not make with traditional wood working. This is my latest and most complex PRINT and builds. Had many mistakes and redesigns on the printing. I had to have parts that were strong AND also gave/had access and RUNS for electrical wiring. There are 2 Smaller red and blue light hooked up with Toggles with lit Indicator light and a MAIN light NOT SEEN.The design of the MAIN 3 light support was at first made of one object BUT the supports would have killed me in PLA and time so made it a 3 part print so the main part sat flat on the build plate.I Use using SUNLO black but switched to HATCHBOX Black Much creamier and rock solid when printed.I could NOT find any sort of METAL with the right perforation for the sheet part of the lamp shade. I found this PVC Circle hole perf. sheet at 1/8 inch thick from US PLASTICS. I had no idea how to make all this work out. I had to make a HEAT BENDING MOLD to form the SHEET PVC. After a few tries I worked it out
When you remodel your bathroom, you are breathing fresh life into your home. There are plenty of ways you can remodel your bathroom. Recently the vanity and cabinets are fast becoming the highlight of bathroom renovations. In this tutorial, I will show you how to make your own DIY Bathroom Cabinet with Epoxy Vanity Top.Check out my website for more info and pictures at TheDIYPlan.com
Recently I bought a slab at a neighborhood Sale for $30. The seller was transparent and straight up with the add that he didn't know what kind of wood it was. From the photo posted, I thought it was Cherry and rushed right over to snatch it up. I knew it was a great find no matter the species, but if it was cherry it would have been an extra bargain. To my surprise, when I arrived to pick it up, I found out that this piece of wood was most certainly not cherry. It was far to dense, hard, and extremely heavy. Just feeling it, it felt twice a dense and heavy as white oak.After getting it home, I now needed to figure out what I would make with it. Personally, I've never really been a fan of live edge furniture, especially the river tables. To me, more often than not they come off as looking too much like someone encased beautiful wood inside plastic. Don't get me wrong, some pieces are quite nice, but I think it takes a lot of design effort and skill to make both epoxy and wood mediums play nicely together. I think maybe one of the things that gets me with river tables is the ratio of epoxy to wood, too much epoxy, no matter how elegantly done, distracts too much from the natural beauty of the table. Perhaps I'm just trying to justify my tastes, I don't know.In any event, despite not really being a big fan of the styles this piece seemed like a good candidate for such design. Besides, I've never made a river anything before, so at the very least, I'd get to learn some new skills. In the end, I, very satisfied with how it turned out. I still couldn't bring myself to put the live edges out, preferring the traditional furniture form for a more classic, and in my opinion, classy, aesthetic.Legs are made of poplar and mortised and tennoned together, simple shaker style design. Top is one slab cut in three pieces with black, pearled, epoxy pour 1.75 thick, 3 bow tie inlays on each side made of off cuts from same slab.After working with this wood Im reasonably certain it's Mulberry, but I can't be sure. Initially I thought it might be Osage Orange, and in truth, it might be. The only thing that gives me pause about it not being Osage is that despite it being incredibly dense, heavy, and hard, it was relatively pleasant to work with. I would have expected a dry Osage Slab to really make my tools groan, more than they did.Anyway, thanks for taking a look.
Just finished these two dozers by T & J's. The lighter colored one is mainly NZ Kauri with walnut tracks and exhaust etc,. The other one is mainly cherry with walnut tracks. Both have ebonized seat cushions and armrests. For others who use T & J's plans make sure you read them all first as there are a few mistakes and if you get the parts kit with it be aware you will need an extra length of 5/8 dowel. This model is on a larger scale than previous dozers. The tracks are a vast improvement but you will need to do a bit of head scratching to avoid the tracks from sagging between the top track support.
A solution for organizing pencils and note pads, and getting them off the counter was on my honey do list. This Nabisco display box lid was a recent find that my wife brought home. When she asked me what I could do with it, decided to kill 2 birds with one stone.Used resurrected barn board left over from a previous build. With a goal of making the box look old, I elected to hand cut dovetails ( first time). After assembling the box, it appeared to new, so I distressed it a bit with whatever tools were handy.In full disclosure, the first dovetails I cut on the wrong side of the line. Rookie mistake!!!!All in all, pleased with the outcome.
This is my second “Pekovich” wall cabinet. For this build I used quartersawn white oak for the carcass and bubinga and aspen for the drawer. The kumiko panel was made with basswood.Kumiko is for the patient woodworker but I think the rewards are great. It is really simple to do after learning a few basic techniques. Mike Pekovich and Matt Kenney both sell kits on their websites. There are many videos on youtube.For the finish I used Zinseer sealcoat everywhere but the bubinga. Shellac just made the bubinga too dark which resulted in too much of a contrast with the white oak. For the bubinga I use Minwax's polycrlic varnish. 99% of the time I use an oil and shellac or lacquer finish but this time this looked best. It surprised me, but It reaffirms the benefits of test pieces before applying finish to the final product.I learned a lot from Mike Pekovich's book “The Why and How of Woodworking” and highly recommend it.Thanks for looking, comments and questions are always welcomed.
This section of Red Cedar has been drying for quite a while in the shop (.over a uear) so finally decided to keep it as a small table once finished.Much sanding and little chisel work to get the final smooth edges. The stump top was leveled out with my belt sanders was used to get as level as possible.Entire top and on the sides with Total Boat epoxy. Hoping it will last for few years to come.Last picture is before finish
These are the planes I got from the neighbor, with the other tools owned by her father (see the saws). Finally finished the restoration. They were in very good condition, with only the slightest coating of rust.There is a #5, a #606 bedrock and a #7. They will compliment my #3, #4, a couple of 5's, and my grandpa's #6. The bedrock is especially nice. the #5 and 606 are from the 1910 patent, and the #7 is form the 1902 patent. The casting on it is a bit rough on the upper surface. i worked out the specific version numbers but misplaced the paper.I removed the little rust with vinegar and on some parts, a dilute solution of oxalic acid. Both remove rust very slowly and thus do not harm the patina – if you are careful. After soaking, the residue was removed by light wiping with a white Scotchbrite pad (low abrasiveness).The japanningg was restored by first smoothing out the few chipped areas by blasting with fine grade walnut shells, which don't affect the metal at all.I went back to the original japanning formula that Stanley used. It consisted of artist's asphaltum pigment dissolved in semigloss varnish. The asphaltum was hard to find, and a 2 oz.tube cost $27. It goes on as a dark brown and becomes black after the second coat. It appears identical to the original stuff, which it is.I have not attempted any tuning, and I may never use them; most of my planing is done with the #3,4 or 5's, which are well tuned.Now, where to store and display them? another tool cabinet?
I have worked Avionic Systems on USAF F-15 Fighters for now over 46 years. Although I retired this year I still work some engineering issues part time. Whenever we have guests visit from out-of-town I try to get them to the base air museum to show off our hardware, I have a friend about my age that had never seen an F-15 Eagle close up, so when he came to speak at our church last year I took him on a tour of our base Air Museum, and got him up close to many USAF aircraft, including the F-15. He was thrilled.As a gift to him, I made him a walnut picture frame and enclosed one of my favorite F-15 photos. This particular picture was taken in Northern Ireland while flying a low level training mission through the “Mach Loop” (google it for some awesome photos and videos). The last time my friend was here, I gave him the framed photo.Frame is walnut was harvested from my uncle's farm in West Virginia. The frame has maple corner splines across the miters showing on the outside of each corner. The photo is covered by 1/8 inch glass that is rabbeted into the edge of the frame. The photo was enlarged to 10×12 inches. Finish is equal parts Satin Poly/BLO/Mineral Spirits. Thanks for looking.
Hey LumberJocks, Just wanted to post my latest project, an adjustable Walnut LED lighting fixture for my dining room. Project inspiration from Matt Downer of Rico CO. He has made many and much more extravagant fixtures of this design. This is my first and likely would do a few things different. I grabbed the 26” diameter limbs from Pleasanton Fairgrounds, slabbed them with my chainsaw mill and they've been drying for about two years. I cut everything to rough size and let sit for several weeks. I hollowed out all the raceways for the lights and wires then mortised the light bars to slide on to the main beam. I hid all the wiring and transformer in the main beam. I went simple and used Tung oil on all the walnut. I fabricated all the brackets and pulley connectors on my metal lathe and mill. The only items purchased were the actual pulleys, but did in fact modify them on my metal mill. I fabricated the ceiling mount and added metal trim for detail. It;s attached with button head square drive screws. Additionally I turned down brass “grommets” that are pressed in to ceiling fixture, which is Walnut as well, where the ropes and electric supply passes through. Another detail- the electrical cord has an idler pulley that takes up the slack as the fixture moves up and down. The large rock is 9.5 lbs, the small rock about 3 lbs, and were found on the side of the road, drilled out and attached with stainless steel braided cable. The “S” hooks are copper rod. Yes I had to spend some time in the attic adding additional bracing for all this extra weight The lighting fixture has about 20 inches of travel. BTW the walnut table is listed as a project on the site – saved it from the scrap heap last year.
I made this hollowing tool for a job I had with a tight spot to get into that my wide carbide tipped hollower would not fit. It is made of tool steel with a hardened tip and has a Osage Orange handle. The tool is 11” long and the handle is finished with Danish oil and buffed and waxed.It worked very well,Cheers, Jim
Boys and Girls,I tried to warn you in the title, so all you masochists read on.Looks like this bloody C19 has taken another scalp and this time literally. After 6 months of hibernating with the compliments of self-isolation, it was costing me a small fortune in hair shampoo per wash and decided it was time to get some red on my neck from the sun (I live with the 'billies of downtown Churchill) To cut a long story short, the lady-barber's hubby just inherited a new used laser without instructions. During the mandatory hairy/client conversation, one thing led to another and after my ears were put back on, I bestowed upon her and hubby an open invitation to my place for some basic lasering education.Was lying in bed one Sunday morning and my talking doorbell announced a visitor(s)
No such thing as a Duck's tail without digression... For all those out there thinking I'm a overly security conscious with two locks… wrong, only a tad. The digital doesn't lock from the inside which is not ideal when away from home for prolonged periods… if we ever get a vaccine. Now back to the topic…Expecting a Jo'Wi' (remember, doorbell ringing), I had my string of garlic around the neck and dressed in my Satanic jocks with horns, I answered the door. It turned out to be my hair-cutter and her hubby cannot call her a hairdresser as all she did was give me a #3 buzz cut that should prepare me for another 3 more waves of C19 Unfortunately I couldn't refuse entry as she had a key to my front door a cask of cheap vinoStill keeping to the short story, they were attracted to my laser cut puzzles and ever obliging, thought we'd spend the day going through my go-to-whoa routine. To my surprise, the hubby had a working knowledge of SketchUp, it's a small world. I decided on a low number of pieces puzzle so as not to overly intimidate them, however, didn't want to duplicate any existing puzzles… boring! I don't know why, but somehow I gravitated to corelz125's projects as I had already plagiarised one of his items and came across his Little puzzle box, which I ignored, but it had a link to the original URL, which I also ignored, but eventually found this puzzle.By this time the cask of vino was quickly depleting and the sun started to set over the meter arm (no imperial here) so I bid them a French Moses (ajew) and promised to follow it up.Now… some day(s) later We have this follow up Imported the drawing into SketchUp
which I trace over,
and created the 3D puzzle,
Note, the 6mm MDF was laminated (using alignment dowels) as my laser cannot cut 12mm MDF. Followed the bouncing ball through to the laser,
before taking the pieces down to the workshop (ok. eagle eyes, above pic already in the 'shop)
To prepare for the glue-up, I needed some dowels and rather than Manwell, I turned to Otto and cut the dowels on my cordless bandsaw
and using them, laminated
flush cut the dowel ends,
Some weren't that flush, so they were chiselled,
Off to my upside down ROS No, not cause I'm in Australia (and it's NOT a bloody upside down picture), mounted in the vice for easier sanding, Can't blame c125 as he only led me to the site, but that mongrel author (not c125) could not make me solve it as he had no instructions posted For a 3 piece puzzle, what I thought would be a 1 minute exercise, turned into an embarrasing 15 minute battle,
but I Rocky'd it, Off to the buffer and went through my traditional tripoli, white diamond and carnauba wax cycles. The first two waxes have cutting compounds in them so the further polished the MDF pieces and the last wax gave it a brilliant shine… sheer laziness precluded me from tung oiling it, which I sometimes do prior to waxing.No sooner had I finished, I had an impromptu visit from the hubby who left me another cask of cheapo vino and walked out with two of the puzzles I think I lost out on that deal but after the cask I didn't care.Over the last few days they have been walking out the door (I've already made 11 of 'em) shit when lockdown ceases people might even come and pick them up. Hell, I've had very few visitors lately and have 5 left with 7 already earmarked… why weren't my other puzzles so popular… this C19 must be making people bonko!As promised to my guests, I made a video of the process (after the laser cutting). If anyone is interested in the SketchUp model or PDF of measurements, you'll just have to go to the video (and give me a another view stat) and get to it in the comments.This project is ideal for CNC work (as all my other puzzles) and can also be relatively easily scrolled… however, if scrolling you may need to do some filing (can cut a tad oversize for caution) as co-ordinated fit is optimum. Though it can be smaller, however, a loose fit is hard to keep intact.Keep safe jocks (or knickers) or should that have been keep safe, jocks!
I saw a computer simulation of this mechanism on Youtube and decided it would make an interesting and colorful hand-cranked wood model.I used red oak for the base and 2 main vertical pieces. The moving pieces are made from hard maple, and then dyed with a water based dye.The finished model runs very well, with very little friction.The kids should enjoy this one. A couple times a year with no virus, I take most of my wood toys to public events so the kids can play with them. Usually, I find the adults have as much fun as the kids playing with them :)To see how I designed and built this model, see my woodworking web site.I also made a Youtube video of the model in action, you can use this link to see the video.Thanks
Finally got the lighting and flooring in for my outdoor kitchen project. It's been a long 6 months doing this in my free time. Tonight was the first night it was dark enough (early enough) that I could see the lighting setup I did. Really love how it came out.I'll post some more picks of the entire deck soon (this is only half of it) once I get a few more things wrapped.Thanks to all of you who helped along the way.
Cities in Crisis III Again CBS and its show 60 Minutes brought me some inspiration. Feeling the need to bring forward the issue of police and Black Lives Matter. I question the need for so much lethal force being used on unarmed people of color. These killings have brought protest that have lead to riots, destruction of property and yes loss of life. Here you can see a couple weapons of rioters with the flow of blood running down the street. It is the blood of many and all nationalities. There is a black side that has many white areas representing other nationalities that are marching with the people of color. The black side was burned with a torch it representing the many business that have been torched. On the other side it is just white. I hope all people are asking for change regardless of skin color. Yes this will be viewed as a political post and will strike a different chord with many and that is the purpose of this piece. We must return to peace with change. It will be interesting the response to this piece.Disk is turned from wet Madrone, brick and stone are from dry MadroneYes it will be turned to politics.
We were in need of a crib mobile and my wife was on the hunt at local stores, while I was on the hunt for ideas on how I could build it myself. Once I had the concept down I showed my wife and she liked the idea of me building one vs. buying one. It uses old scrap walnut material and is more meaningful, hopefully it's one of those things that can by passed along.The design needed to be strong enough to hang like cantilever on a stud and the arm needed to be adjustable as the little one becomes more interested in grabbing things. I decided to build the base out of walnut and mortise two “turrets” that would sandwhich the arm with all thread and washers. I used a long walnut chunk and lapped it in the middle to add another pivot point. The arm is held at the base and at the elbow by a long piece of all thread that has a nylox nut and cap nut which have Loctite on them. However, as you move the arms back and forth you can feel the cap nut tighten or loosen. This concerned me but my wife and I are always looking as we move it to make sure the nut is not lose and does not present a choking hazard. On the back of the base are two Keyholes that were routed in for a “faster free” look on the front. On the face is just a little profile that I used to ease up the corners and give some design to the base.I am still new to wood working and always am impressed with the people who seem to have flawless projects. So much so that I was beating myself up when I would produce less than perfect projects. Once I realized every one makes mistakes and lots of people edit their content to hide these flaws, I was less discouraged. In this project I decided to show off my mistakes to hopefully not discourage others as I once was.My mortise skills are very beginner and I had to hide the ugly cut outs by trimming the turrets with small walnut trim (look the back side of the base and you can see that I had to hide the imperfect cuts further by using the ole' glue and sawdust trick.) I am also still not patient with sanding and you may notice some defects in the along the project that could be fixed by spending more time sanding, I'll do this later. The other mistake I made was not holding the base to my router fence hard enough when making the keyholes. You can see that one of them got away from me a tad bit, but they still hold super strong and I have no worries about this.Hope this helps and is encouraging for the dad's like me who want to do something for the kiddo(s). Bonus points, the wife made the hanging part as well from a hoop, string, and some yarn.Sorry some Pictures are sideways, didn't have the time to figure out how to re-orient them.Mason
The design I saw for this table called it a Jupiter style table I don't know why but it sure was fun to make. It's not obvious but the top is book joined and the stretchers are lapped and mortised and tenoned to the legs. The woods are walnut and cherry with a boiled linseed finish and a Howard's wax protection. I love the simple and elegant design and the woods contrast each other so nicely. Hope you like it. Thanks for looking.
Decided to get the dust off the scrollsaw and cut some gears. Always thought a bank vault door gear setup looked neat so I though Id make a lock setup for the furnace room / storage room in the basement door. Grandkids love it. Gears are cut from a combination of 1/2 & 1/4” Baltic Birch and 1/2” MDF. All in all with the changes made along the way and 'screwups', I cut 280 gear teeth for this. https://www.lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/2283341-97x65.jpg?1602118955Next to last gear layout.https://www.lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/2283342-97x65.jpg?1602118970 Final installation on the furnace room / storage room door. Clockwise turning of the wheel causes the latch hook on the right side to lift from the lock pin assembly. Counterclockwise it re-locks the door again.In the event my wife needs to get in the storage room, she can just lift the locking hook (it's on a friction bolt) rather than turn the handle. Enjoy.. POP
Made this box from a piece of wood that has been sitting in a corner for years and I have no idea what type of wood is and the veneer I used is walnut burl . This box is made to fit the TV remotes that alway look they don't belong on the coffee table , problem solved .
This was a fun project made out of a large Parota (Guanacaste) cross cut slab. The thick slice of Quartz geode has been inlayed into the surface of the table with an LED light installed below.The light is controlled by remote and has the ability to turn 15 different colors and three different light intensities (white and pink examples in the pics). It can be one color or transition between colors, or turn completely off. It is powered by a small removable power bank, so no power cords needed.The power bank can be used separately for your phone, iPad, computer, etc. There is a magnetic mounting pad for the power bank under the table, shown in the pics along with a small velcro dot for the remote (no need to keep track of them around the house or add to any clutter).The table legs are 16” high, antique brass finished industrial steel. Legs are mounted with coated screws for ease of removal if a different style or height is preferred by the end user. The table dimensions are 56”W x 53”T x 3” thick. The top is coated in epoxy. The sides and bottom are sealed then topcoated with Odie's oil.I am not a professional photographer, so my apologies, it looks much better in person. I created this table for fun to test an idea and after over 100 hours of labor, will probably not make another anytime soon.
I made this lamp from the remnants of the Texas madrone log from which I made the Bullet Hole Bowl I previously posted. I tried to come up with a way to turn this one but it was just too odd to make anther bowl from.
After a little brainstorming, it occurred to me that maybe I could make a wall sconce utilizing the rotted hole to throw interesting patterns on the wall. I cut the log in a square block and sliced off some square cookies. I decided it would be too small for a sconce and instead decided a small lamp would work better. The cookies were book matched to form the 4 sides with a single piece for the top. Each side was simply edge joined and the other edges were beveled for joining the sides and top.The base was made from a block of Bradford pear by drilling a hole for the fixture and hollowing the bottom of the block to form the arched legs. I used an LED bulb that has a remote that allows you to adjust the color and brightness and can even be set to fade between random colors and sort of looks like an evil presence has taken it over.
This project was all about organizing my office area around my 1950's oak school desk. It is incorporating my iMac , printer, 4K monitor for our security cameras and general stuff. I used genuine mahogany 3/4” plywood with a combination of white oak and Honduras mahogany for the facing. Simple but very functional
HiJust today I completed yet another wine-barrel project, this time a coffee table. Slowly but surely the old wooden furniture in the house is being replaced.We had an old Roxton Maple coffee table in the family room that was too large for the space, quite out of style and yet had a perfectly good maple top. I used that top for the new wine-barrel coffee table.The table top was reshaped to a perfect ellipse and refinished to appear as close as possible to white oak. Of course, the grain of maple is finer, but the idea was to match the color of white oak and also to recycle the old table top.The top is attached on the underside with 1-1/2 plywood, to which I fastened a drawer and four legs. The legs and the face and back of the drawer are fashioned from white oak barrel staves laminated together to form two curved surfaces. This was a tricky process. Lots of hand work involved.I did not incorporate a barrel hoop to surround the table top substructure, as the metal was reluctant to bend to an elliptical shape. This is because the wine barrel hoops are not flat bands, but are narrower on one edge than the other to accommodate the bulging side of the barrel shape.The table legs reveal the inner surface of the white wine barrel which is a deep amber color. I chose to leave the sides of the drawer box open so the lovely maple can be easily viewed.The lid is finished in clear Varathane Professional Matte… three coats. The legs, and lower structure of the table are similarly finished.The inside of the drawer is made from 1/2 baltic birch plywood.Blessings and Peace, Bill
I just completed a huge project that pushed my woodworking skills to a whole new level. And it all started with a friend saying, “Hey you do woodworking, can you make me some replica railings for an old house I bought?”In the video series for my YouTube channel, it looks like I did this just for a small stair section. In fact, I created over 100ft of custom railings for a massive wrap around porch deck including and area with curved railings (shown in the last picture). I still can't believe I actually did this. Enjoy!<div>Get your own valid XHTML YouTube embed code</div><div>Get your own valid XHTML YouTube embed code</div><div>Get your own valid XHTML YouTube embed code</div>
I wanted to make something for my daughter as a wedding gift. She mentioned that she wanted a wine cabinet and her fiance is into whiskeys. So I looked around and found this build by Smitty (Link Below) that I used as an inspiration. She had some cherry furniture in her home she the material was an easy choice. The design was in line with the other furniture that she has.I want to thank Smitty for answering some questions that I had along the way.https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/14987
Came across a maple scrap on a Sunday afternoon and decided to have some fun.I didn't set out with the plan of getting all fancy with the wedge, but I got bored while the glue was drying on the other part. The shape kind of reminds me of a shaving curl, which makes me like it a lot. :)
I've been carving a few Comfort Birds lately. I've finished about 13, and have quite a few in process too. I was trying to make some out of every kind of wood in my shop, but I don't know if that will happen at this point!Notice I made a template from some aluminum flashing. That speeds things up a bit. Now I need something that will speed up finishing. That's the thing that holds me up. I can saw out and carve one in about an hour, and then the sanding from 100 – 400 grit takes about another hour. The finishing with wipe-on polyurethane takes… well I don't really know since it takes several applications and there's always some blemish that needs retouching…Anyway, I've enjoyed carving these and giving them to friends and family.Cherry, Alder, Walnut, Mahogany, Sapele, Poplar, Red Oak, Ash, Fir, Paulownia, Lignum Vitae, Wormy Hickory, Rubber Wood, Beech, Peach, Chinaberry
I had 2 long range projects going in the shop. Now that the marble machine is finished and the other one has paint drying, I got back to making these 2 optical center punches. I was a lost on what to use for the center clear rod with cross hairs and then I found a piece of clear plastic rod in my plastic cut offs drawer and tried it out in a wood block. I thought it would be too dark to see the cross hairs down at the bottom of the hole, but it is amazing how bright the lines show up with this rod sitting on top of the piece to be punched. That rod must amplify the light down the tubeThese two are made from Brazilian rosewood with a brass sleeve pressed in the center. The center punches are hardened tool steel so they can be used on steel as well as wood. The clear plastic rods are highly polished on the ends with commercial plastic polish used for epoxy table tops and the cross hairs were scratched into them in the milling machine. The wood is finished with EEE and Shellawax
First off. Credit for this idea came from fellow Lumberjock camp764 who found the idea on Pinterest, where he suspects it originally came from Woodsmith magazine.As with my other projects posted here on Lumberjocks -always give credit where credit's due.I'm not a fan of the Steampunk art form at all. And this wasn't my intention to call this Steampunk in any way. But it slowly came out to me after I took the pictures & submitted them to our club online editor, that it does have a retro look with the shiny polished bronze rough casting for a mallet head to it.Not intentional but the retro Steampunkishness look of this mallet is slowly growing on me.Fun project that got started by a now online based woodturning club's monthly President's Challenge. Which has been part of switching from a local face-to-face monthly meeting format where we used to drool over the other member's newest turnings, talk shop and the related problems, advice, and solutions we all can share.And now to a web based monthly meeting format to stay in touch with those club member now spread out on both coasts who so choose to meet virtually each month to talk everything woodturning till it's safe to come out from hiding from the world physically.I just posted details of the backstory & the build process, (warts and all), here.Enjoy,-Woodstock
I've been building models for a while now and filled the house up twice I would think as my wife has been giving the older ones away to make room. lol Have been using a Wen scroll saw and it got the work done but was wanting something better so got a Dewalt scroll saw and it's a whole different beast. I'm now able to use much smaller blades [no pins required] and the change over from one hole to another is just so much better. I'm talking seconds instead of minutes.I say all this to show why now I've switched gears and playing with scroll saw projects. I's something new and interesting to learn and gives me a chance to make things my better half can appropriate and enjoy. As you may have guessed we love cats. LOL
I built this flag case this past spring for the family of a WWII Veteran who was killed in action in France in 1944. The Cooney family of Cresson, Pennsylvania owned Cooney Brothers Coal for many years and I am proud to say that several of my Uncles and Great Uncles were Dragline and other types of equipment operators for them. When I learned the oldest Brother Thomas, was killed in Action in 1944 near Vologne, France, I wanted to do something to remember and pay tribute to that. The box itself is made of Walnut. I then inlaid the base and uprights with Coal and then epoxied it in. I then obtained his awards and uniform devices, mounted them and inserted them into the lower frame. The flag is a full 9.5×5 Casket flag, which I had flown at Arlington. I then carefully wrapped it around a form and inserted it into the top and folded the rest in behind it. I then delivered it to the family and presented it to the remaining family members.
I ran into an old client (grand daughter) and was asked to consider taking on a desk project (I've yet to learn the word No around her). Kyra is entering high school this fall and would like to move off of the kitchen table for her studies. It seemed like a reasonable request and I asked her for some styles that she might like. Being way ahead of me, she texted some pics of a Hemnes desk she saw at IKEA complete with overall dimensions. I somehow get the impression that this build was not a spur of the moment decision on her part. It seems like it was not long ago that I was building cribs and doll furnitureI started off importing the pictures into Sketchup and scaling them into the model to acquire additional dimensions when I thought to make a search into the 3D Warehouse. Voila!, there it was, several models with everything but the joinery detail. I downloaded one of them and half of my design work was done.For the cabinets, I decided on frame and panel construction using 6/4 alder for the frame and plywood for the panels. On the frame, I incorporated mortise and tenon joinery with dadoes to hold the panels in place. The drawers were constructed of Baltic birch plywood with simple box joints to assemble and added fronts with 3/8 round over drawer lips. The top drawer has an additional sliding tray in it for smaller items. The cabinet door was likewise made with M&T joinery using alder and plywood panel, again with a 3/8 round over door lip. The client wished to have the door cabinet divided with a shelf, so I made it a pullout shelf with short rail since the cabinet depth was too deep for the opening.The desk top is simply a piece of particleboard with a Formica laminate added to the top and built up edges which I thought would wear much better than a painted wood top (client agreed). Beneath the top, situated in the footwell, is a shallow shelf to hold a plug-in strip and cables off the floor (sorry, no pics). Access to the top surface is through two 2 cable holes with plastic grommets. The top is attached to the cabinets with wooden clips that fit into the dado around the top of each cabinet frame.The top shelf unit is made of sanded ply using dadoes, screws, & glue for the stationary parts and pins for the floating shelves. The small drawers on the bottom of the unit are constructed of Baltic birch using box joints similar to the desk cabinet drawers.Both units were rattle can sprayed with gloss white enamel (per clients wish) and the drawers were shot with a couple coats of lacquer. I'm sure that I would have been money and time ahead if I had just bought the IKEA unit but this build kept me off the streets (and out of the wife's hair) for a time. I am glad I am only a hobbyist, it would be difficult to make a living with clients like mine.Thanks for look'in in, all comments are welcome and I will return in a few months providing I'm not evacuated again due to fires and/or floods.