The Woodshop Shed

Bathroom Vanity

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Our daughter has 3 daughters of her own including a teenager and a pre-teen. Her bathroom vanity was at least 20 years old and in rough shape. I made the casework and door panels from maple plywood, the face frame, rails, and stiles from soft maple. Finished with 3 coats of latex enamel. I wish I had a before and after pic. This was a fun build. Sorry for the picture quality – I'm not much of a photographer.

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Birthday Jointer's Mallet for Son-In-Law

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During our last visit to our daughter and son-in-law, he had recently completed a very nice side table for their living room. During our discussion of the table it was revealed that he had hand cut the mortises with a fine set of wood chisels, however it was also noted that he was using a rubber mallet with his chisels.Upon our return home I set about to make him a wooden Jointer's Mallet to complement his wood working. The mallet was completed in time to mail to him as a birthday present. The Mallet head is White Oak sandwiched between Cherry. The handle is hard maple. Finish is Danish oil. Thanks for looking.

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Tea Lights and Pencil Holders

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These were actually gifts for Christmas 2018 – (I am a little behind in my postings). We made eight sets of the Tea Light Holders. Each set contained a pair of the pictured holder each with three votives and candles. We also made two pencil holders. Nothing complicated, no fine joinery, but the gifts were well received. We have since visited homes of several recipients and saw the articles on display. The Tea Light holders are Cherry. The Pencil holders are Cherry and a slice of Maple. Finish is equal parts BLO, satin poly, and mineral spirits. Thanks for looking.

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Closet: shoe cabinet and shelf

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Running out of storage space in our master closet, we decided to Just add some. We have a small recessed nook with 2 hanging bars with a shelf on top. My bride has quite a few shoes and hand bags, so storage for those items made the most sense. All of the wood used was either scrap or what I had on hand leftover from previous projects. Material: 3/4 birch and pine ply, 1/2 pine ply, dimensional pine boards and knotty alder for the cabinet top. Finish: 6 coats of General Finishes varnish (50% cut) for the cabinet top and Behr premium acrylic paint for carcass and shelves. (Not sure why all but one pic came in sideways – any guidance on fixing would be appreciated)

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Custom order for a client

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This guitar body is Mahogany with a flame maple cap. The neck is Flame maple as well with a rosewood fingerboard. The finish as all my guitar builds is Nitrocellulose Lacquer. This is Bourbon Burst. Everything was done with a bandsaw, a router and a router table. The carving was all done with a set of Japanese rasps. Thanks for looking.

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Resurrection of the Unknown Crank Bait

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This is the second of this bait I've made. The first one (it's original twin) was lost yesterday in a tree of all places. Thing is, just before that it was the first time I had caught a fish on one of my baits. Then I cast it into a tree.So, this morning I went out and nearly duplicated the same, now nostalgic item. Like it's twin, it's made from pine and airbrushed. It has a UV-resin finish coat. I make everything about it except the hooks.In this video it shows the making of the bait from drawing it on a piece of paper to taking the first cast with it when finished.“

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Kid's Garden Bench - Barn Boards & Pallets

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I picked up a small load of old barn boards, along with a few pallets last fall as they were next thing to free, and often come in handy for outdoor projects. The boards were all different widths (& thicknesses) so I wasn't going to worry about having everything symmetrical, and I'm sure the grandkids could care less. The legs are 4×4's from a couple pallets and the rest is all barn board. It's kid-size at approx. 41” wide.

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2 Small boxes

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over a month ago I made something with the 5/4 quarte sawn sycamore that I found. In the process I ended up with half a dozen cut-offs that I just couldn't bear to toss out. So one day I found some purple herat cut-offs that were meant to go into bowls but instaed I glued them together and cut them at 22 1/2 degrees and glued that group together and then that to a piece of 1/4” luan.
I've been moving it around for several weeks and finally decided it was going to be a lid for that box I hadn't made yet. Then I realized I had 3 pieces of sassafras about 12” long that I had inlaid some 1/4” square walnut strips that were cut-offs from some other job. It was decided that would be the body but first I had to laminate a purple heart strip to accept the lid that was already made. I had already decided that the lid would be a lift off seamless lid.
The purple heart box is 8 1/8” long x 4 3/4” wide x 3 1/2” high. I mitered the corners but the body walls are only 3/8” thick and I couldn't see a pleasing way the add splines so I drilled and installed 1/8” dowel rod for corner support. I put a piece of dark blue velvet in the bottom in the hopes it would go ok with the purple heart.
The second box is pretty much the same story except the lift off lid is butternut inset in a rabbit with the unknown wood as a handle. The body ( walnut ) and the lid are resawn pieces from the Giving Hands Tree I made last year and the handle is a piece of the orange wood I acquired last week. This box is 8 3/16” long x 4 11/16” wide x 2 5/16” high not counting the handle which makes it 1/2” higher. This box got a piece of red felt on the bottom and with 1/2” walls I used 1/4” dowels for corner support and has the seamless lift off lid.
The only thing I can say about the orange handle is that it cuts easy, shapes well, sands beautifully and feels like waxed glass with a finish. Even tho you can see plenty of grain configuration there is no grainy feel at all. smooth like babys well you know.here's a couple body pics
Purple Heart corner
walnut/sassafras box

Thanks for looking and I'm still searching for a species name for the orange wood.
Comments and build help is always welcome.

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Farmhouse Furniture Desk

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Several years ago a friend of our daughter asked me if I could use some more sawmill lumber. Of course I could use some more lumber. Turns out this lady had a good truck load of pine and white oak stacked in her yard. She simply wanted it gone. My son and I gratefully and gladly hauled it off. Over the ensuing years both my son (GrumpyCub) and I have each made numerous projects from this lumber. The lumber was quite a gift and much appreciated.Fast forward a few years and current COVID-19 pandemic has had many in our area working from home. Such was the case with the lady that gave us the lumber. She has for two plus months been working on her company computer, at home, on a coffee table. Three weeks ago she called and asked if I could possibly build her a desk. She had a picture from a popular internet site that represented the basic design features. She brought the picture by and we discussed desk size, shape, doorway clearance, material, finishes, etc. I told her I would build the desk for her.The plan is for her to apply the finish, white painted frame, and walnut stained top with clear – typical farmhouse look.The above pics show a portion of the lumber she gave us years ago stacked vertically in my shop, and two pics of the finished desk, ready for final sanding and finish. Except the two plywood shelves, the entire pine desk is made from her lumber. Assembly is pocket hole screws (first time using pocket hole screws), some glue up (top), and a few pneumatic finish nails.It was a fun build. If I receive pics of the finished desk, I will also post them.

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Negative Rake Lathe Tool

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So I wanted a negative rake lathe tool for turning acrylics and really hard wood, They're like $80-$125+ but you can buy a replacement cutter for $15-$20… I'm not cheap when it comes to buy tools but what makes the handle worth all that money? So I bought a cutter and shaped the tip of a 3/8” stainless rod on the grinder, Drilled and tapped it and screwed the cutter on. Then I turned a mahogany handle on my lathe with a tenon for a band and drilled it out. For a band I used a 1/2” brass adapter that I put in the metal lathe, Cut off the male end and drilled it out for the stainless steel. I used JB Weld 5 minute epoxy to put it all together. To see if it was worth it I timed myself… It took me less than 45 minutes. I'm calling it a win… Oh.., And there's a cigar style pen I made from a Jameson whiskey barrel stave and the top I printed the label and cast it in resin.

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A wobbler

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My latest fishing lure. It's a wobbler or sometimes called a crawler. It's very cool in that it makes a bloop, bloop sound when it wobbles across the water, hence the name 'wobbler'.It was a bit challenging as I only had pictures of some and videos of them being used. I guessed the structure. It has to be balanced just right to work as it should. Made of pine and aluminum Everything is hand made, blades, body, eyes, eyelets, everything except the hooksThere is a video of it here should you want to see how it was built from a piece of pine from a tree I cut down forty nine years ago when I was seventeen.

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Soda can holder

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Wife wanted a way to hold the soda cans and get the cartons off the floor in the pantry

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Table Lamp

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This started when my wife bought this copper lam shade at the Gem show in Tucson two years ago. I was to make a fitting lamp for it and I had to wait until I could cut a big tapered round piece off a mesquite log. Well I was given that log last winter and brought home this piece of green mesquite. I dried it in the microwave for a day and had a few cracks but then it was dry.I turned off the natural edge because I wanted it to be symmetrical. I also wanted to experiment with a few things so I put in a touch control that is triggered by the little brass button in the front and I also wired the trigger to the harp so you can touch the shade and trigger the 3 levels of light with that.I wanted to experiment with glow-in- the- dark powder in epoxy resin ,so this lamp has a small pool of blue resin just below the shade that glows when the light is turned off ( last shot).For a finishing touch, I made a mesquite knob for the top of the shade and I found out that a lamp harp does not have a standard thread…it is 1/4” -27 so I had to buy that special tap to thread the hole in the knob.It is one piece of mesquite 6 1/2” x 10” x 18” High and finished with satin Polyurethane.I added some process shots below:cheers, Jim
Starting it on the lathe
Milling the pocket in the bottom for the touch control box

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Artemis Art Box

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Box number 27 in my recent box series. This is number 12 in my Adventures into Shape.This is the second pentagonal box I've built. The first has dovetails and the shaping is much more subtle. This one is built from poplar with pine, cedar, hickory and mesquite for some of the accent pieces and splines. It has more extreme shaping that the cedar band around the middle allowed.I used a table saw, jointer and planer to mill the wood and to cut the angles and dimensions. Much of the shaping was accomplished with rasps and I used a Saburr bit to do some of the dished out areas. I spent a day doing hand sanding along with use of turners foam backed sanding discs on inch mandrels. Much of the dished out concave areas were finished with curved cabinet scrapers, a new favorite tool of mine. I tried to take the sanded finish to a finer grit than I've used before. I now get that sandpaper is a legitimate tool and shouldn't be skimped on when buying. Also, I've learned the hard way to not skip too many grits when sanding. The fine paper just makes a very fine dust that fills all the scratches from the larger grit paper. A steady progression through the right grits REALLY saves time and gave me favorable results. I also cut some old cloth backed sanding belts into different width and length strips for sanding some of the convex features. I wish I had done this a few projects ago.I enjoyed creating the feet and pull and made little improvements to the techniques I am using. The splines and inlays on the lid are also an area that I keep playing with and developing. I used the same technique from the previous build to create a large glue area between the pull and the round cap on the bottom. That serves to sandwich the ends of the triangular panels of the lid.The jewelry box has two removable trays. One has no bottom but reveals the felt lining on the actual box. The second rests on top of the first and has a bottom. They are finger/box jointed together.This box also has a compartment on the bottom side. This is accessed by emptying the box of its trays and flipping it over. There is a cap that has a catch and it aligns with magnets in the bottom compartment wall.Dimensions are as follows…
Outside dimensions of the Artemis Art Box are 9 inch across at the widest point by 9 inches tall but with the legs it stands at 11 inches tall. With the lid the total height is 16 inches tall. The legs are about 4 inches tall and the lid and pull are about 5 inches tall. The two jewelry trays are 2 inches and 2 inches deep. The interior of the box is 5 inches deep.Finish is a wipe on mixture of oil based poly and mineral spirits with around 10% of a fruitwood oil based stain. I really wanted to bring out some the grain without too much stain so that the legs and pull would be showcased. That was followed by “sanding” out the finish with crumpled brown paper. I used Trewax brand paste wax for the matte sheen that it can be buffed out to reveal.These inclusions are dowels within dowels and also dowels play into the joinery a lot on this piece. Most are hidden.
Comments and criticisms are welcome.
Jon

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Camphor Bowl.

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I acquired a lot of beautiful bowl blanks so I've been interested in seeing what they look like. It's been awhile since I posted a bowl but I have a few I would to share. This Camphor bowl is 6-1/2×3''. My first time with Camphor and what a surprise after starting to take off some shavings. It has a strong scent of Vicks vapor rub and I guess they use the extract to make other medical products. My eyes lit up like the moon . It's pleasant but after awhile it starts getting to me.
In pic 4 I rubbed on the first coat and it popped the grain nicely.
Finished with a mixture of Danish oil and lacquer thinner, 2 to 1 parts. You get a oil finish that dries quickly that way. 5 coats total and the last 2 were just the Danish.
It went through a 3 step buffing process and the results were very satisfying.
P.S. I threw the shavings in my garden, they say it will help keep away bugs and critters. LOL. We'll see.

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Gaming TV Stand

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Boys and Girls,In an attempt to boost my project post statistics for the week, I thought I'd invade your sanity with this TV stand I made for my entertainment area a few years ago… which may seem like an eternity before the misfortune of this duck gate-crashing LumberJock's forum and upset everyone's tranquillity.Recently having surrendered to my dark side and buying a Fe$tool Domino,

I thought it might be an appropriate time to pay homage to my humble but functional Leigh FMT jig,

through the pretence of this TV stand, before it fades away into the crevices of my pickled memory.I purchased a gaming racing seat (another long duck tale),

(along with my Merlot co-driver) and set up a PS3 PlayStation on an old plasma TV (in my endeavour to be an honorary greenie, the plasma has since been upgraded).
It was degrading racing around the circuits at ground level,

and after many driver complaints, to give the impression of lifting our arses off the ground and looking down on our competitors, I decided to make a table for the TV, to bring my racing competitors up to eye level,
Hey don't fret… the project details are coming!See!...
As with all my projects, it started off with SketchUp which was based on using my Leigh FMT jig as a foundation for the base,
Down to the workshop and out with the FMT,
Being designed in SketchUp, I felt confident in mass production,
Had to allow for the tenon overlap,

and set up my Fein to cut out the corner,
This bit of bullshit needed to be done for the double tenons as I didn't want to cut through both tenons using the bandsaw or scrollsaw (only the inside one) and tested fit,

and the glue-up began,
Reverted to my Frontline clamps for the panels used as tabletop and shelves,

and the customary glue squeeze out and sanding phase,

then off to the store room for staining black after a coat of tung oil,

tabletop (and shelves) stained,

finished with 3 coats of water based varnish.The tabletop was made up of two panels combined with a lazy susan to permit rotation of the TV

to play other PS3 games away from the obstruction by the driving seat like golf,

using my favourite clubs… the #1 wood and trusty putter,

... so all you C-19 restriction whingers eat your hearts out. Had the choice of many world class courses and copious mulligans were used and when I got tired of walking the course, I could relax driving around in my racing car seat.To keep fit, I could ward of waves of invaders ranging from space invaders to WW Communist infiltrations,

by the use of my special PS3 arsenal,
Fired up Gran Turismo 6 on the PS3 and tried my hand at some dirty driving,

only to learn the meaning of eat my dust.Chatted up my co-driver,

wiped down the steering wheel,

lined up the pedals,

calibrated the gears,

and snuggled into the seat,

decided to give the local Bathurst track a burl and anyone wanting to know what DUI looks like in one's lounge, check out this video..Then for a change of pace, decided to flaunt our gun laws.It may become obvious to some why I'm not phased during C-19 lockup isolation and as for those missing golf, the only thing I miss is my calculator for handling my triple digit handicap… learned very quickly that while you can cheat your fellow golfers, you can't cheat that bloody computer that keeps accurate scores… it knows the difference between a practice swing and a miss.

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Table Saw fence accessories

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Quick couple of projects today to enhance the functionality of my new table saw. First up is a caddy that magnets to the fence and rides along with it storing important things I find myself hunting for all of the time. I'm hoping now that they have a proper home they stay there.Next up is an auxiliary fence I guess its called. It sits down over top the T-Square fence and lets me attach a sacrificial fence or maybe something with a t-track in it. Who knows what I will use it for. My current other project needed the sacrificial fence first so that's what I built.If you look closely the sacrificial panel isn't bolted down yet because somehow I left the hardware store with 10-32 t-nuts and 1/4-20 hardware.Right now the fence has some felt pads to help it glide along but I think both accessories could benefit from some PTFE adhesive skids.

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Bird feeders

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These are some of the 5 I built today. Super simple much like a band saw box. I saw this on You Tube. Every now and then I need to knock out a few simple easy projects just to feel productive. The wood is beetle killed birch. Peeling the birch is super easy after the beetles have their way with the wood. I've found that the older the beetle kill the more dramatic the exterior of the feeder once the bark is cleaned off.

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Cherry and Maple corner shelves

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The first set of these was for my daughter. My wife liked this so much she requested a set. Mixed it up a bit and used Cherry and Maple.

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Small Voronoi Wall Art

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First in a series of Voronoi Wall Art pieces.
CNC carved mahogany Voronoi pattern mounted on dyed blue veneer with a mahogany frame.
Roger

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AV credenza

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Hi everyone, I just finished a credenza to host all AV equipment below the TV and hide the gazillion cables.The box is made of bubinga with variable space box joints I cut for the fist time on the CNC.The doors are birds eye maple and carved on the CNC as well. The process was very smooth, I first struggle to create the CAM for this pattern in Fusion360 so if anyone is interested I can share the process.The base I welded out of 304 stainless steel and since I cut the angles of the legs on my Tormach I ended up engraving a logo as well.I used for the first time European hinges (by Blum) and highly recommend them – the setup couldn't be easier and the ability to adjust after install is fantastic.The finish is my usual 2 coats of shellac followed by 4 coats of water based poly with ample sanding in between coats.Thanks for looking and have a great day

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The "Paulkravian" workbench, v1.0

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My shop is in our single car garage, and there's not much room when the car is in there. My existing workbench is a piece of inch thick melamine covered particle board that used to be a desktop, screwed to a 2×4 frame. It's solid, but larger than I would like, and I can only clamp to the edges.I like the idea of the Paulk workbench, but a regular one is way too big for my space. So this one is 2 feet by 4 feet, and made with 3/4 ply. I initially put together with glued and screwed butt joints. Once the glue was dry, I took out the screws, drilled the holes out, and glued in 3/8 dowels (which was probably overkill). I didn't want any metal in the bench top, as I have accidentally cut into existing bench too on more than one occasion.The legs are based on the Moravian workbench here ( https://woodandshop.com/moravianworkbench/ ). I kind of screwed up and didn't cut the mortises at the right angle, and so cut the tenons on the 2×6 crossmembers at an angle to fit. I didn't want to mess with tusk tenons, so the crossmembers have 1/4-20 threaded inserts in them, and are bolted into the mortises with carriage bolts and shop-made star knobs. The leg assembly is bolted to the benchtop with a 3/8-16 bolt in the top of each leg, also with a threaded insert. The benchtop was given s few coats of water based poly.The test-clamp shown is a cheap Harbor Freight clamp heated and bent with a mapp gas torch. It works, but the bend tends to flex more than I like, so with probably try a different approach.

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Graduation gift box

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My wife let me know on Friday that she wanted me to make a box/trunk for our daughter who was graduating the next weekend. Fine, but I was going to be working out of town from Monday thru Friday the following week. So I had Friday night, all day Saturday and Sunday, and the Friday evening that I returned to get it done. Well, 4:00 to 10:00P friday night, 7:00A to 10:00P on saturday and sunday, and when I returned I put on the stop and the hinge and a coat of wax, and this is it.
The box is 34 inches wide and about 18 inches tall and 18 inches deep not counting the legs. It has a plywood bottom.
I used a great piece of Curly Ambrosia Maple, and framed in the panels with Canary wood that I got from Yoder Lumber. I had used some of the Canary on another project, and was very happy with the way it looked and finished.Sydney loved the box, so it was a great success, and worth the long days it took to make it happen.

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VALERIE'S DANCER!

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Made this ladies dancing shoe out of cedar. Was nice wood to carve and the grain worked well.Imagine Valerie doing her moves, shaking and jiving! Wow!Enjoy the dance!

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First Projects Since I Retired

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I got the smell of woodworking late in life. Been at it for about 2 years now. Found out measuring with a micrometer marking it with chalk cutting it with an axe and beating it together doesn't make good projects. So I slowed down and found a couple of plans I thought I could accomplish and decided to post some of the better ones here for my very first post. I found this site a while back and have enjoyed reading looking and thinking. I have enjoyed the ideas and the friendship I see here. So, I pulled the trigger today and signed up.
The first photo was built for my grandson when he told me he wanted for Christmas was a BIG TRUCK grandpa, BIG TRUCK. So here is the very first project I did and made him a big truck. Used my entire shop full of tools, A 7 1/4 circular saw, hammer, cordless drill tons of screws lots of dirty words and LOTS OF BANDAIDS. (Took me a while to learn to move my thumb out of the way of the hammer and that 1 1/2 screws do stick out through a 3/4 board and will keep on screwing into the finger). He is hauling his big sister somewhere Lord only knows where! The second one is a scoot trike with ping pong balls (Lots of noise) in the rollers to drive my daughter nuts for my newest grandson. The third one is evident he wants to see where he has been. The fourth one is Last year's handmade Christmas gifts for family. I think I may have created a monster in giving away handmade STUFF for Christmas. Me thinks they are going to expect it from now on. The last photo is one of the clocks that I made. I learned how to cut the wood so the grain matches all the way around the clock.
This woodworking stuff is going to be fun, maybe not to much of a profit maker, but who can place a dollar amount on a smile and a memory?

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Scrap Wood Shelf

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One of my LJ buddies pointed out I have been posting quite a few unfinished projects as of late. I thought I should post a finished one to prove that I do finish one from time to time.. lol.
My sister sent me a picture of a small shelf she had found somewhere and asked if I could make her one similar so she could place our moms and her son's urns on it. Told her I would give it a go and since I had a bunch of pine scraps left over from other recent projects would use them so it wouldn't cost her anything. Not sure what the style is (possibly craftsman or early caveman maybe) but it's solid pine finished with Minwax provincial stain. Used pocket hole screws to attach the shelf spacers and dowel pins to back up the glue for the top shelf.

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Wooden Ruler Growth Chart

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I'm a long term reader of this site and this is my first post but not my first project.I created a wooden ruler growth chart as a baby present for a friend. Since I'm home for the quarantine, I decided to make it more of a challenge. It's taken from an oak tree that I cut down in my backyard. Last summer, I used an alaskan chainsaw mill to make planks. I hand planed it smooth then drew the numbers and carved them with a new set of carving chisels. Some of the numbers look a little off but I suppose that gives it the handmade look!

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Spend/Save/Give Jars box

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This box is inspired by a similar design bought at a hobby store. My Sister-in-law sent me the picture, of the box she bought for $10 (last picture).It's made out of pine, 4×5x14 are the approximate dimensions. I used 1/4 birch plywood for the base of the box set in 1/2 inch in from the bottom of the rails. Dark walnut stain, and 2 coats of polyurethane.Each box has 3 jars for my nieces and nephew to save money, spend money, and give money to their church or donation. The jars are wide mouth Mason type jars.I don't know the exact naming of the jointery i used, bit it was not actual straight up edge to edge box joints. I used a dado on the edges of the same depth of the sides. Everything is glued and nailed, ans the birch plywood base is floating in the rails similar to a drawer.

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Burr in Blue

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Chestnut burr I have been working on. Stained with spirit stains and a gloss finish the edge is guilded with a chemically treated brass leaf giving the edge a brass copper look some little parts show the natural edge through the guilding adding to the piece
Measures 4” tall and 7 1/2” diameter

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Business Card Holder and Case

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Business card holder and filing box, made for my son.
Used the Incra hinge maker, and routre table for the “dovetail” joinery.
The re-sawing of the dividers on the bandsaw.

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Inlayed Lazy Susans

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I made a batch of these for family Christmas presents a few years back.
Thanks for looking.

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Arrows

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Messing with squares and triangles. Natural and alcohol dyed Basswood framed in Pine and finished with Gloss lacquer.

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Paint Brush won't Hold Paint

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I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things.but, sometimes I don't take good care of my tools.
below is the story – - -.

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Mobile Workbench

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Mobile workstation for my table saw, router table, miter saw, and planer. Lots of storage underneath. Top is black melamine.

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Built-in Bookshelves/Entertainment Center

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I actually built this in August of 2018, but I haven't posted it until now. My wife and I had been wanting to transform our playroom, which was a depressing place where nobody ever spent any time. I decided it would take a built-in bookshelf/entertainment center to make the space work.It was made entirely with materials from the big box stores: 2×4s, sanded plywood, melamine, crown molding, and poplar boards for the face frames and some of the shelf edges. I bought two stock cabinets since they actually cost less than the materials to build them myself.the unit is attached to both the floor underlayment and the ceiling, and the vertical partitions are 2×4 stud supports sandwiched by plywood sheets on each side. I put a plywood shelf on top of the stock cabinets and then built fixed shelves at the same height into the other partitions. The other shelves are adjustable and made of melamine.Since the playroom was remodeled, the it has gone from being the least used room in our house to probably our second most used room (after the living room). There is plenty of storage space for us, and it is much easier to keep the room clean and usable.

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Drill press table and fence

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Covid lockdown! Finally had the time to build the drill press table I've been meaning to for years.

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rustic tiered herb planter

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this was a quick weekend project for a friend of ours sam (samantha) that lives in an apartment but still wanted to be able to grow some fresh herbs so she asked if i would make her something compact she could put on her porch.so this was my answer.made from some rough sawn cedar ive had taking up space too long.simple butt joined boards assembled with tbIII and ss trim head screws.size is h=35” w=24” d=20”,the boxes are h=6” w=6”.there are drain holes covered with screen on each box.the finish is penofin roewood oil western red cedar.the letters were cut out with rocklers sign making system.i wish the cedar was all the same color but hey it's a free project so she cant complain.

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Weed Vase.................Design by Frank Lloyd Wright

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I was looking at images of weed vases on Google when I came across this copper one designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1893 and made in 1898. I guess it was a challenge to reproduce it when I saw it.
I made it out of cherry and then did an antique copper finish on it. The sixth photo is the original one. Like that one, mine has a 4 1/8” x 4 1/8” base and is 29 1/2” tall. I put a hole down the center only 16 ” deep.The original one sold for $60,000 at an auction and is now in the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.I added some process shots below.Cheers, Jim

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Interior Staircase

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The old staircase was pretty steep, not too stable and the treads were only 9” deep. The single stringer was only 9” and had several deep splits. I used 12” double fir stringers and 12” fir for the treads. The new staircase is incredibly sturdy now and will last for many years. I personally preferred the stairs without paint and carpet, but the homeowner chose carpet for better grip.

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My first attempt at a table

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I used my kreg jig for the first time, and used some hardware I had on hand to attach the top 1×10 pine, to the base of 2×4 and some 1×4 poplar. This was before I decided to try my hand at gluing wood together to make larger dimensions it could be a side table or a footstool as I am using it. 18”x18” top and 21 inches tall. Eventually I will disassemble and stain/poly.

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Pinch rods

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Pinch rods made from sapele and solid brass that I purchased from Crucible tools (Lost Art Press – of Christopher Schwarz…..Anarchist Tool Chest, etc.).Very simple to make. It does require some fine tuning with a sharp hand plane so the rods will slide smoothly through the brass channels. Each rod is 32 long and when fully extended it'll give you approximately 70 of reach.Wood is sapele with a coat of Danish oil.

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Prototype Mission Style Lamp

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This is a prototype of what I think of as “Splintergroup's Lamp.” To the extent my skills allow, it is a shameless copy of this, without some of the beautiful details my current skills don't allow. And I can't thank splintergroup enough for his series of blog posts on making the shade, which saved me months of figuring stuff out.This prototype is made of alder and finished with sprayed-on shellac (just the Zinsser canned stuff). There were a couple of small faults in the wood I filled with crushed turquoise. I'm not sure why the one picture is sideways – it looks right on my computer. I have more to learn about posting here.Although it's hard to see in these pictures, the tails on the shade are slightly different, in that I continued the dado on the “vertical” shade pieces further down the tail. I have already finished some walnut versions of this lamp and I'll have better pictures when I post those. I'm also working on some QSWO lamps of this design, although I've had to take a break from that project to complete a small farmhouse table and bench.The body of the lamp is made of four solid boards, each tapering one degree on each edge. The four sides are then glued into the tapered column using lock miter joints. This particular lamp is now in the office of a young friend, who is an up-and-coming lawyer. I'll have to give him one of the walnut ones when he makes partner. :-)

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Shop Mallet

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I've been wanting a nice mallet to replace my old store bought one, so I finally built it. It's made from walnut and maple, my favorite wood combination. The head is made from 3 layers, with the middle maple layer made from 2 pieces cut at a 2 degree angle to form a tapered mortise. Both maple pieces have a 1 1/4 hole to accommodate steel BB's for added weight.The maple handle has a wedged tenon, which combines with the tapered mortise for a very strong joint. The contours of the handle were shaped with a belt sander on my homemade jig which holds the sander perpendicular to a small shelf, and also a round-over bit in the router table. Followed of course with lots of sanding.Since you are fellow woodworkers, I have to disclose 2 mistakes, and my remedies to fix them. The first is the middle maple layer in the head, which is slightly wider on the bottom than the top. Since I don't own a band saw in my small garage shop, I had to resaw a small piece on my table saw, and it apparently tilted slightly when ripping and I didn't notice it in time. I considered scrapping the head and starting over once I noticed the mistake after the head was glued up, but after some thought I decided to see if I could still make it work. Which I did by offsetting the tenon on the handle in order to center it.The second mistake happened when I was rounding over the handle with the router. A large chunk chipped out on the end. Instead of tossing it and starting over, I decided to cut off the handle a bit and add a walnut accent on the end. Since it's an end grain joint, I strengthened it with a dowel.Now I have a proper mallet, with a couple of reminders that all is not lost when mistakes are made.

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UnderSawStop StorageCcart

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I'm taking an online course from Woodworking For Mere Mortals right now that focuses on shop organization and improvement. This is the Handicart from that course, but modified to fit under my table saw and also hold my miter sled. It's made using half lap joints. I was able to make it all from materials already in the shop too, which was a nice bonus. I might modify another one into a bandsaw outfeed table.

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The Pizza Cutter and the Simple Box.

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Boys and Girls,I've been making far too many posts lately and it has cost me a small fortune in postage stamps so I am ganging up several projects (and a review) in one.While looking through my scrap bin for material to build my Milwaukee Trimmer Box I came across this simple “unfinished” box

I made for a pizza cutter using one of my inaccurate tape measures, subsequently relegating the box to my scrap bin.

Nevertheless it brought back memories of the pizza cutter box I made those few years ago.
As I had some spare pictures of the box, I thought I'd bore you LJ members with another one of my crappy tales.Quite a few years ago I bought 5 pizza cutters direct from Rockler for about $25 (Aust). The ones I bought had a brass head and stainless cutter. The kit came with a threaded insert and an allen key to seat the insert,

The all stainless ones currently retail for $46 from Carbatec (in Australia… nolonger shipped to Australia by Rockler). They are heavy duty… and I mean heavy duty. They weigh about 3-4 times your “standard” pizza cutter and if you don't eat pizza, you could use them to shop wood (or fend off home intruders).Now a box for a pizza cutter is not a practical supplement, however, I turned a very basic handle for one of the kits

and I was totally pissed with the handle's simplicity, I decided to bling it up by making a box for it.

Had a change of heart and decided to create a form-fit base for it. First off, I scanned the cutter

and in Coreldraw created a better template than I would just pencilling around the cutter. I printed out the final outline to use as a scroll saw cutting template. The form was cut out on a bit of pine board (the swarf
),
and rounded the shape with a roundover bit

(which was eventually flocked… see gallery picture 4)
However this would not fit into the original box so a new box had to be made,

you can see the original pee-wee lurking in the background shouting profanities at me.Tested the fit (pic 3) and trimmed the box (from pic 02 dimensions) to a thinner dimension to just accommodate the thickness of the cutter in the profiled base.Back to the Future II. The discovery of the dodgy box made me question my sanity of currently (ok, 2 weeks ago) using a cheapo $2 pizza cutter at home. Decided to turn a handle for another one of the kits that have been sitting gathering dust for many years.
One disadvantage of turning is that you either take so many pictures that it's a conundrum of which to include in the gallery or you totally forget you owned a camera well the latter option came into fruition so here's a belated picture of the final assembly process,

Unfortunately I didn't toss out that inaccurate tape measure that cocked me up in the past as I made the same fitting mistake with this handle,

and grinding down the circumference of the blade was not a viable option. Fortunately the misfit was no issue as a box had no room in my cutlery pantry next to my chopsticks

Hey I might hate this bloody C-19, but I still love my Asian food… I'm multi-cultural… I eat both pizza and stir fry (noooo bats)... and sometimes at the same sitting!Sorry GR8, no video made, however, if there are enough requests I can make one of me slobbering a large pizza down the front of my shirt.PS. Don't get sucked in by cheap imitations,

It's about $1 cheaper than the Rockler (USA price), however, it doesn't come with a threaded insert, allen key and the body is not as robust with a wobbly blade. Also missing are the spot holes to find the bits of pizza adhering to the blade after cutting.

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Antique car replica

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1915 rolls Royce gosh
Fenders are saloon
Dices are oak
The rest poplar
I used ash for the wheels and the driving wheel
13,5 inches long, 5 inches wide and 3.5 inches high

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Wood truck

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This is a replica i made from a picture of the real truck ,we used to have a big paper mill up here where i live and the mill was called Brown Company ,if you google it you will see all kinds of photos of there logging operations .They tore down the mill some years back and put many hundreds of people out of work ,this is a 1954 Gmc they were using GMC trucks for a while before going to Ford's hope you like it .

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Curved Desktop Pencil Box

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This pencil box was commissioned as a desktop unit to match the owners desk profile in order to store his ever growing pencil and pen collection. Solid oak with oak veneered drawer fronts and back, the top cover is pin hinged to the body and carefully fitted to the curved profile. Black ebony drawer pulls and small decorations. Fun, practical project full of challenges and good lessons.

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Sisters CATSKAT!

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My sisters cat dyed and this was a rush job! I had to use epoxies where I normally would not and guess on stuff

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Grandson Jack's Fly fishing Net

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Hello, Made this net for my Grandson Jack after admiring some here on LJ'S for quite some time. The thought process probably took longer than the build itself. So the handle is made from Leopard wood ( his favorite ), the hoop is made from strips of Walnut, Maple, Cherry, Purpleheart & the Leopard Wood handle with some Spalted Birch. The Walnut came from his Great Grandfathers collection that I inherited. The Maple came from a project his dad & I worked on, so some special components in this project. The net is from Jan's nets if I remember correctly. The finish is a marine polyurethane that I was not happy with & will not use again. (took days to dry) applied several coats with sanding in between. Thanks for lookin. Says he is going to teach me fly fishing, LOL never tried it. Jack

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Studio Pencil Box II

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I have another Granddaughter that asked if I would make her a pencil box. How can a Grandpa say no?Oak, Walnut and Birch with a Danish Oil finish.

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Handmade Hand plane

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I just finished my latest project. I made a hand plane using a frog from a Stanley no. 26 Type 10 transitional plane. I used plans from Wood Magazine, 2015 to help shape this piece. However I strayed a bit from the plans trying a few different things, such as the two tone toe and heal for one. The wood I used was Cherry, Black Walnut and Red Oak was used for the sole. It was a fun project and helped with building some of my skills such as using a spoke shave, and using several different sizes of chisels and lots and lots of hand sanding. I gave the piece two coats of Danish Oil and finished it off with two coats of lacquer. Even though it cuts great, I probably won't use it and will shelve this so I can just look at it. Thanks for looking.

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Another Vanity and Med-cabinet job for son

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Job from son ( general contractor) . Painted vanity and med -cab . waiting on glass.

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joint effort, me and my Son

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Sorry for only one picture but that was all I was able to get. My Son needed an idea for his Mom's birthday. He decided he would do a print of a flowering bush (rose of sharon) she has in the yard and asked if I would do a frame for him. Can't say no to your Son so I put a rush on it. Her birthday was May 8th so it was still late. (My fault. Another fight with my enemy, the 45 degree angle) The wood is silver maple with a walnut insert around the edge with a cove. The wood came from a tree that fell in our yard 2-3 years ago. She was very happy with it.

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Live edge bench

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Black walnut live edge bench.

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Lacewood & Maple Quilt Rack

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I like curves and figured timbers and I thought a curved frame and panel would be an interesting challenge. figured maple paired with lacewood. Mortise and tenon joinery, oil and polyurethane finish.

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Cedar and Redwood gates

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A couple of cedar and redwood gates for a customer. I cut the curves on a circular saw. The frames were constructed with mortise and tenon joinery however after setting new posts for one of the gates I realized the gate width was now too wide. I had to cut the current frame then recut the arch on the top. Nature of the business I guess, customer was happy regardless.

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Mothers Day 2020 Woblet

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An addition to my collection of “Vessels Emerging.”I could show you the process photos. I don't know where they went. I shot all the photos with my phone, and these ones, along with the half-dozen or so more you don't see here, came straight out of the phone into the computer. The earlier process photos – of which there were only a few – went to the Cloud, and I had to dig them up. I downloaded them (I thought) into the folder these ones went into. They weren't there. When I went back to the Cloud and hit the downloaded files button, the Cloud told me they were gone. Oh well. I'll describe them.There was the photo of the stick I started with.It would be here, with a tape measure across it, showing its length at about 15”. The woblet, ultimately, came in at about 10-1/2”. Not my tallest, but, I'm pleased with it.I would point out that it's a rather gnarly-looking stick, with a handful of branch stubs sticking out of it. I would also tell you that I believe it's the very last bit of Camphor that I possess. It came, along with all the rest of the pieces I've made from it, from a tree that was in my back yard. The tree is gone, now, as is all of the wood from it, minus what's still in the chuck, as I write this. Something may yet come of that. Stay tuned.I would then tell you about how it was a stick that had been lying on the floor at the foot of my table saw for I don't know how long, and that I really didn't know what it was. I had it in myownbadhead that it was, maybe, Cape Chestnut. It wasn't. How do I know? I had to cut the ends off for mounting between centers, and, the moment my Japan saw began digging in, there was that aroma. It's Camphor. This stuff smells wonderful. Almost medicinal.That out of the way, I began turning what would become the top end, towards the tailstock, into a cylinder. And, when I had bored the top of the bowl portion, I took a picture, and would have put ithere.I finished the inside of the bowl, and a fine finish it was. So, in the interest of having that, at least, to show off, in case it should break and come to nothing, I shot a photo of that smooth, shiny interior.Use the fourth gallery photo, to aid your imagination, here.I proceeded to the outside of the bowl. And, when finished, having the same trepidation about it failing, I got a photo of that, too.They were very nice photos, all, I assure you. That's the sum total of them. You're welcome.I knew, going in, that I was going to tilt it in the chuck. I found out, shortly, that I had somehow forgotten how to do so properly. I really had a much more delicate stem-with-knuckles item, in mind. There was that pith, you know. I'm well-acquainted with the pith, as you know, having made several of these goblets. Almost from the start, I found myself mixing this really fast epoxy from HF, and shoring up the weak spots, wherever I found them.I could call your attention what appears to be a crack in the second knuckle. I could tell you the funniest story about why that's there. I could say that I had turned and finished the bowl; turned, and finished the neck. all on the longitudinal axis; I could tell about that first foray into making it wobble, and point out how the first eccentricity looks a little weird because I was trying to remember how to do it; Then, about how, after having finished that section, for what it's worth, the missing knowledge began to return, and I went on the first knuckle; About how, at 1600 RPM, the whole shebang was doing quite nicely, all the way trough the second knuckle, and the third. Then (here's the funny part), I took out the tilt, to take the rest of the stem to the base. And, I'd say that, in this condition, it's not wobbling, but for the eccentric bit, mid-stem. It's spinning like a charm. The mass of the Thing is, after, on the longitudinal axis. I could say that it was while it was in this sturdily-spinning condition when it made up itsownbadmind to break at the second knuckle. I'd point out, with photos, which I didn't take, that the pith had nothing to do with the break. It broke right across the solid wood. The cup, and the first two and a half knuckles hit the floor, and I caught it on the first bounce. No notable damage. Then, I'd talk about how I decided, today, that I'd gahead'n finish the stem, and the base, and put it back together, using that really fast – 90 second open time – epoxy, after finishing the bottom. I could tell you all about this.But, I won't. You don't need to know. You probably don't even see the thing that looks like a crack in the second knuckle.I could, also, tell you about how, just now, in the proofreading, I found a comma out of place, and felt the need to fix that. But, I won't. You already know how anal I am.Thank you. And, I apologize.

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Hall,Sofa, accent Table

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Hall, sofa, accent table. The lumberyard had a 16” X 4Ft. X 1” Padauk board that was calling my name, so I had to get it even if I had no immediate plan for its use. I saw a table on “Pinterest” that caught my eye so now I had a use for the padauk. I had previously seen a small pic (about 3” high) of a design that was intriguing to me as it appears to be a continues wood design that doesn't have a beginning or end. I printed out a copy, took it to Staples, and for less than $1. had it enlarged to 10” high. I cut Maple, cherry, and walnut strips the withe of the enlarged print and about 1/8th thick. The different colors of different wood gave it a more 3-D look. Laying each stripe of wood on the printout I could see where to cut and the angle to make an almost perfect joint with the various wood. Using a chisel, I would make a slight indentation then finish the cut with a fine pull saw. Sometimes a little touchup with sandpaper to finish. After using a knife blade to follow the outline of the glued up wood, I used a small handheld router to takeout about the 1/8” depth as close as I dared to the outline and then used a chisel to get to the knife cuts. The table is 34”H x 13 1/2” deep x 47” L. The splayed out legs measure 15” W x 53' L. The angle of the legs were achieved by attaching the legs to the frame at a 45degree angle. The wood used beside the padauk is popular. If you can get the wood WITHOUT the tan or greenish coloring, it will pass for maple 95% of the time at a great savings in price. i.e. check out my Manta Ray table.

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Ground lounge

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I made a mistake the other day. I showed the wife person the reclining back rest posted by DIYMontreal. Next thing I hear was “I want one!” So guess what happened next….These are walnut and poplar since I didn't have enough of anything else. :(I plan to get a lot of use from mine since I like to sit out in the evenings and watch for satellites. Good way to relax and unwind and contemplate the projects yet to come.

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garden trowel

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well another christmas gift from 3 or 4 years ago that i never got around to,but with some extra time i finally get to take it off my to do list.a simple lathe project that took about 4 hours start to finish.something my friend jim jakosh could do with hie eyes closed.wood was cocobolo which is very hard and durable,a great wood for handles.just turned to preference and epoxied on the blade and ferrell.finish is 3 coats gf arm r seal with a final coat of wax.

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Six Awls

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I made some more awl for stock for future shows. These are made from Osage Orange, with hardened tool steel points and solid brass ferrules. They each have a S&W 500 Mag cartridge embedded in the back ( Compliments of LJ Hilbillyshooter _ Thanks Gunny!). Two of them had chipped out when I had them turned to final dimension and was rounding the back so I added some contrasting wood to finish them. I was going to use walnut but when I walked in the wood storage room, this piece of Jarrah said Pick Me.. Pick Me, so that is what I used for them. They are 1 1/2” diameter and 4 1/2” long and finished with EEE and Shellawax.cheers, Jim

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Book shelf/planter

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Made from standard pine about 5 coats of outdoor polyurethane. Now just waiting for the weather to warm up.

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Walnut and Padauk pizza peel

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A pizza peel that was made for an anniversary gift. It's 12.25 W, and 13 L, and 1/2 thick. With the handle then it's 22 long. I finished it with Watco Butcher Block oil.

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Mother's Day Bench

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My wife wanted a bench for the area next to our grill. It is a simple design using 1/2” all thread and washer stacks to hold the top together (saw the idea on You Tube where a guy built an outdoor dining table using the concept). The interesting thing about this is not so much the bench but the wood used in it. The legs are made from an ammo crate I saw laying behind one of our local gun shops. It had some references to Korea (see photo) and the wood was strange and had 40 million nails but my wife likes the rustic look with nail holes so all is good. The three smaller pieces on the top are from a huge crate we got equipment in at work from Italy. The wider piece on the top is cool because during the shelter at home orders because of the virus, my wife and I went driving around to just get out of the house and came upon a construction dumpster that had had this huge gnarly post sticking out of it. We pulled it out and took it home. It yielded some of the coolest wood I have seen. The closest match I could find was birch but I have never seen a 4×4 piece of birch-they might exist-never seen one. Anyway, it was meant for outdoors but my wife liked it so much, she decided to put it inside.

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Walnut end table

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I had previously started a TV stand/cabinet that would have had a walnut top, but I decided to completely change the design, so I ripped the top in two and that is what started this project. It turned out a bit smaller than I had planned, and I left two sides a hair longer, but the top is about 16 on each side, stands about 24 tall. I also compromised on the legs, which I made with two laminated pieces. Normally, I would have used solid 1.75 square stock, but I had enough of these smaller lengths of walnut that had no other use.
Followed by anotherI once again used simple mortise and tenons for the skirts between legs. I wanted a floating top that I had never tried before, and for those supports I just used pocket hole screws. I didn't want tenons through the middle of the skirting, and I didn't trust shallow mortises that would have only gone through a half inch. There were other ways to have done it, but I tend to act impulsively on new projects.I cut 45 degree angles off the bottom face of the table, then cut a flat edge about 1/4 in. That's something I had been wanting to try out, I thought it would accentuate the floating top effect.My last project was a walnut coffee table made of a slab and filled in a large void with epoxy colored with black mica powdered pigment. I decided to have the end table match and used the same epoxy and pigment combo. I routed a 3/16 and 3/8 channel on all sides, criss-crossing them and then filling them with the pigmented epoxy, sanded them flush/smooth, and after assembly I applied 3 coats of General Finish's Arm-r-Seal. I plan on making a twin for the other side of the couch, perhaps an identical one to match, or maybe the same construction only in cherry.

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Veggie Hod Mother's day gift

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This is not fine woodworking but it was a fun project. I didn't know what a Veggie Hod was until a year ago and basically it's a outdoor colander and basket. You pick your vegetables and you can rinse them off in the basket outside with the garden hose. One is for my wife and the other is for a friend who told me about these. Used a lot of scrap cedar and some 1/2” wire. You can find plans online but mine are 20 1/4” Length, 11 1/2” Width, 9 1/4” Deep, 16 1/4” Tall and used a 1 1/4” dowel. In my opinion I made them slightly too big and heavy. Trim the depth a inch and maybe the dowel to 1” if you're making them for your wives. The hard part is cutting and shaping the wire to the basket. Thanks for taken a look.

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King Size Bed

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So, a friend of mine had replaced his queen sized bed with a King size bed. He only purchased the matress and box spring. Then they asked me if I would be able to build a king size frame for their new matress set. I agreed. The total cost for this project was $163.00 which was their cost. No labor, no other charges, just the cost of materials which they reimbursed me for. They do an awful lot for our local VFW and it was the least I could do, and a labor of love. The wife had only one request which was to have a moose on the head board. So I put my creative juices to work and came up with heart that has the head of a male moose on one side and the female on the other side. All out of pine.

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Zebra wood end grain cutting board

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Been a while since I made a cutting board. I've had this zebra wood for about a year. So an end grain board was the plan with this all along. Pleased with how it turned out

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6 plates with apricot segments.

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Hello, friends. I had some free time, and I decided to make some plates. For this, I used the material of ash and oak for the base of the slabs. I made segments with apricot and bog oak. In the end, I soaked everything with oil wax. Here is a link to the video production.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UynLDE6ajAw&t=13s

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BARREL BOTTLE OPENER

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Another bunch of wall hang bottle openers – BARREL alike, made of scrap wood ash, temperature treated ash (cross beams), oak, walnut and plywood for cups. Finish wood oil. Dimensions 30×13cm, 13mm thick.

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Not Just Cats & Dogs, Furniture Rescues Need Considerations Too

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This poor creature, which belonged to a lady's late grandmother, jumped from the back of a pickup. It suffered broken bones, scraps and even had a part missing from the ordeal.I took my shot, and I think it's ready to get back home.I think the part I'm most tickled with is, the chip repair on the face. That I was able to pull it off is thanks to, in part, flooring an neighbor was tossing during a move.Though it doesn't show, if I wanted to “more invisible” the chip, I should have taken it down to the router line.I cleaned the chip out, shaping it to a V. Before I did, I confess to, foolishly, thinking a butt joint would work. IO was well into an epoxy glue up when I screamed [to myself] “hell no,” and pulled it, then came back and V'd the cut.The grain isn't real, at the top of the V. It's Exacto work, which the stain turned into grain.

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Good inlay gone horribly wrong

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My first time on here. I have been checking out Lumberjocks for months. I am so inspired by the collective talent on this website!!Well, this started as a bottle opener project for a friend. This was my first attempt at inlay and I was fairly happy with it but thought he deserved better than a bottle opener. This led me to cut out the inlay to use as an inlay in a cutting board of some type. The second picture shows the cutout on a geometric type board. This seemed way too busy, so I opted for a surfboard type board. This is where it all went wrong because, on the final sanding, I started sanding through the fins and flower. This is undoubtedly because of the multiple times it had been inlaid. I also left it slightly proud for scraping once it was inlaid into the cutting board for final scraping and sanding. I chose to rout out the botched veneers and use some black epoxy when I should have just made new veneers. Live and learn I guess.The final board is walnut, sapele, maple, and OBVIOUSLY black epoxy with mineral oil and beeswax.

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Wedding Cross

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Here is a Wedding Cross I made for one of my clients. The outer cross and base are select pine. As for the center cross, I have no idea what wood that is. It was listed as free firewood. I decided to slice it open and found that beautiful grain pattern. Anyone know what it is?

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Unresolved City Crisis

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CBS and 60 Minutes is one of my favorite shows. This is the second piece inspired by that show. Last month they did a followup on the cities of Detroit, Flint, Newark, Baltimore and others suffering from leaded pipes in their cities. I would not think this will be very well received in the woodturning world. A challenge to make something to a theme. Thanks to Max Brosi for sharing the knowledge to make the pipe fitting.The piece stands 6 inches tall and about 6 inches in length Pipe fitting is wet Madrone turned as well as the piece of pipe. Fitting is painted with reactive pant. The drop of water is sprayed blue airbrush and then it is dry brushed with silver metallic paint.
This is the second piece from the 6o Minutes show the first being Plastic the Curse of Mother Earth. One more in work and should be done next week. stay tuned. Yes critique and comment welcome.
Ron

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Small Bookcase featuring bloodwood and red oak.

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A little bookcase I made for my stepdaughter. Her favorite color is red. Oil and polyurethane finish.

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coat rack with shelf and mirror

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I think this is called switchboard rack”. Seen a few different versions and liked the idea and concept so I made my own and added the shelf and mirror.

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Weed Vase #5

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This weed vase was made from blue streaked pine. It is gift for the sawyer who gave me the wood.
The vase is 7” in diameter and about 1 1/4” thick. The base holder is also made from the blue streaked pine.It is finished with Danish Oil and then buffed and waxed.Cheers, Jim

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XPanel: The First Open Source Panel Saw Jig - Part 1

I'm an IT guy, so I'm very familiar with the concept of open source software, and I love the idea. So, here's my contribution to the relatively new open source "hardware" movement.

One of the most frustrating and difficult things to do in a home shop, is breaking down full 4'x8' sheet stock panels, or large cutoffs of sheet stock, into smaller project pieces.

I've priced the ready made prefabricated panel saws that can be found online, and they're way out of range for most home shops (certainly mine) and I've wrestled with taking on one of the many DIY versions to be found online as well, but even the kits for them are expensive, and the work involved in a version built from scratch with plans is daunting.

The whole time I've been looking around for some sort of panel sawing solution, I've always thought if I had it my way, I'd want something that satisfied what I considered to be several important requirements for hobbyist woodworkers, as follows:

- it must be makeable from inexpensive (i.e. cheap), readily available materials
- it must be quickly assembled and disassembled for storage
- it must not take up much room, whether assembled or stored
- it must go together without permanent fasteners, so as to make it easy to swap out worn pieces (clamps or notches are the preferred methods of fastening for sacrificial pieces)
- pieces that won't ever be cut into, can have permanent fasteners and extensions attached
- occasionally used add-on or attachment pieces, can have permanent fasteners and extensions attached
- it must be functionally flexible and easily modified

So while surfing around one night looking for yet another panel sawing suggestion, I stumbled upon something I thought might be a solution
for my home shop. It was nothing more than just a cheap pair of 2"x4"x8' studs, assembled in an "X" pattern, and fastened together using angled notches in the center edge of each stud. It could be placed on the floor, and it could support even a full 4'x8' sheet of anything for cutting. The idea was to set the blade as high as possible while still cutting through the material, but scoring the supporting X'd 2by's as little as possible.

This idea was good, and it satisfied some of my requirements, but it lacked something to make it a great idea.

Take a look at what I call the XPanel jig. I refer to it as a jig rather than a panel saw, because it behaves and is used much more as a jig is used. Here are pictures with and without an almost full-size sheet on the jig (ignore the incredible amount of junk around it.)





My addition of the vertical studs on each side has made it so the jig can be placed against a wall, and used similar to the way a "real" panel saw is used, and it all goes together and comes apart quickly, and by way of the angled notches, without the use of permanent fasteners. And the addition of a clamped deck rail makes it so a panel can be loaded onto the jig easily, without adding a permanent part to the jig. Here are pics of the angled notches for the vertical members.

IMAGE(S) TO COME


Here's the link to the original "X" jig page again.


I also made three different size circular saw guides, similar to the popular version(s) found on woodworking sites around the internet. Here they are:

IMAGE(S) TO COME

Here is the jig with various size sheets, and with the guides in place:

IMAGE(S) TO COME

The ultimate advantage of this jig is this... EVERY CUT IS PERFORMED HORIZONTALLY, allowing gravity to do most of the work, and eliminating the need for any sort of counterweight system to support the saw during vertical cuts. Here's a picture of how that's accomplished:

IMAGE(S) TO COME

In keeping with the open source concept of this jig, it's flexibility is only limited by your imagination, and my original requirements. I'll be posting pics of some of the compliant "plug-ins" (i.e add-ons and attachments), I've come up with to make the jig even sweeter.

And by all means, if you can think of anything to make the jig even more useful, feel free to comment or ask questions, and of course, I encourage you to make and use the jig and see for yourself how this incredibly simple design just may solve your panel cutting needs at a fraction of the cost of other solutions.



MORE TO FOLLOW...

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Small Picture Frames

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I took another one of Steve Good's patterns but reduced the size to match what stock I had to make these picture frames. They will hold 3.5” x 5” photos instead of the 4”x6” he originally called for and are made from curly red oak. These five are for my two daughters, two of my great-nieces, and my cousin's granddaughter. Although I originally made these just because, my eldest will turn 22 tomorrow and so the one set up for landscape pictures is her birthday gift. The four dark ones have a black cherry stain with a lacquer finish while the light colored frame has just lacquer on it (that great-niece said she wanted a light colored object – still not knowing what).

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Segmented Urn

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A segmented urn … Bloodwood, Ebony, and Maple.This urn is 7-1/2 inches tall, 5 inches in diameter, and consists of 165 pieces of wood. The threaded inserts are s resin-stabilized maple.

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Bit of neighborhood whimsie

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Like a lot of places I'm sure there seem to be more people walking around the neighborhood as of late. Our local school has had a few things to encourage people to do scavenger hunts and other things such as stuff animal zoos where people put animals in the windows so parents and kids can go for a walk and look for them.
I have been playing more with my bandsaw and decided to make a few things to stick around the yard for passersby to notice. Everything was cut out of scraps that I was planning to throw away anyway. The squirrel is out of 2×10 so it can stand on its own. The rest are just plywood.Hope you can get out to the shop and have a little fun.CtL

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Horse Chestnut Box

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I found this site by accident several years ago and it inspired me to try and learn how to make boxes for a hobby. You “box-maker” dudes really impress me. I've been practicing and hope to keep improving my skills until I'm as proud of my boxes as I am of my wood. I'm retired now so there “should” be enough time…This wood came from a 60 foot tall Horse Chestnut tree that I planted as a child of about five years old. My father was an amateur nurseryman and very talented wood turner and carver. He kept the tree root pruned and when my wife and I bought our first and only home, he drug the tree over and we replanted it together in our new yard.40-plus years went by and the tree had to come down. My brother in law has a bandsaw mill and he cut the tree into 2-inch slabs about three years ago. I hope to make some furniture at some point, but right now I'm learning skills with boxes.This one is about 11×6 x 5-1/2 inches tall. The sides are 3/8 inches thick as is the lid which was glued to the sides and then cut off. The edges of the lid were trimmed with some scraps of unknown wood that my Dad had salvaged from a scrap bin at a local guitar shop many years ago. (Somewhere there is a matching electric guitar). The handle was also made from some of the guitar scraps. The bottom is 1/4 inch chestnut that matches the sides. I rattle-canned several coats of shellac, then rattle-canned several more coats of lacquer which I wet-sanded with 1000 grit and buffed with paste wax.The pictures show all of the mistakes that I had to figure out how best to hide. I'll sure be glad if I can finish one someday without so many mistakes. But I think I am getting better at hiding them…Give me an honest opinion and critique. And if anyone can tell me how they put a glass finish on a box that has handles and legs attached that isn't as freaking tedious as wet sanding with a very small block and 1000 grit, PLEASE let me know the secret.Thanks for looking.

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THE TRANSFORMER PLATTER, 4 WAYS

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I did this project for the WOOD TURNING CHALLENGE for April. The presentation picture was it in its simplest form, Then you can add another turning in the canter and it becomes two tiered.Or just a dish in the center if one was serving dips etc.Or you might want to use it for a romantic occasion with treats.A nice decoration can also be put in the center.I turned this from a 14 inch thick square pf birch. The design was to have the outer rim fold around and then lathe the bottom side till one lathed through the flat sides, easier said than done. for some reason.
laying out the projectstart of the bottom side, top was done last.continue lathing till you can see right though.The top rings where done in iridescent gold. I was thankful I didn't cut the sides when I was making the hand hold big enough right off. close though. I would have just given upThanks for looking, comments appreciated

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The Flight of Fright

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Kodansu – Flight of FrightContinuing with my Japanese 'period' of woodwork, this small chest was inspired by the kodansu - small table cabinets of the 19th century. They were originally used to store items related to the Kd ceremony. Kd is the art of appreciating Japanese incense, and involves using incense within a structure of codified conduct. Kd includes all aspects of the incense process, from the tools, to activities such the incense-comparing games. Kd is counted as one of the three classical Japanese arts of refinement, along with kad for flower arrangement, and chad for tea and the tea ceremony. Kodansu were small, highly valued, and highly decorated with the finest lacquer techniques.Mine is less than an 100mm/4inch cube..It is made of veneered plywood with solid maple drawers. The veneers are burl walnut and birds-eye maple. The decoration includes a gold sprinkled interior to the chest, the drawers and door, and inlays on the exterior.The drawers have a sprinkled burl walnut inlay on the front to match the exterior of the chest. The drawer pulls are black zirconia stud earrings.The shell stringing on the outer sides forms frames for shell inlays. A crouching tiger appears on a gold and silver sprinkled landscape on the top.The sides have shell feather inlays, with gold sprinkled feathers on the back.The front door has two makie lacquer cranes in flight.The shell inlays come from vietnam check them out here https://luthiersupply.com/wildlife.html The range is amazing and while they may appear expensive, I think they are amazing value compared to buying your own shell and the time taken to cut the pieces out yourself.These makie cranes are real gold makie stickers purchased on my last trip to Japan, they are usually used for personalising mobile phones. I have just ordered a load of others for another two kodansu. You can check them out here https://kinpakuya.jp/?mode=cate&csid=0&cbid=1563636 They are highly detailed and relativly easy to apply.This following picture shows the makie stickers in their 'raw' state, before they were applied to the door. In the background is the gold and silver dust in the petri dishes, and the sprinkling 'pipe' with the green end in the middle of the picture.As with my other Japanese boxes it is presented in Japanese Tsutsumi - gift-wrapped style, with a Tomobako case, (not shown) and a Furoshiki black fabric cover, embossed with gold feathers.I've called this Kodansu the 'Flight of fright' - as the cranes on the front have been frightening away by the tiger.Thanks for looking.Hope you enjoyed it.Martin

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Shut the Box-My Version

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My Thanks to Duckmilk for inspiring me to make this for my grandaughter who loves numbers games.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/411227
.
The lighter coloured wood is radiata pine, the darker wood is Australian cedar.
I used a laser burner to do the numbers. Luckily the next day after i did the numbers the laser played up.

The frame was not really difficult.

The throwing area is 3mm ply covered with 1.5mm imitation leather.

I downloaded one version of the game rules, did some artwork. She is a paramedic hence the Ambulance in the background. Sealed with a laminater.

Several coats of wipe on poly on all the wood.

The lid is A thin wood frame covered with imitation leather,with eyelets for effect.
Thanks for looking & thanks to Duckmilk for the inspiration.

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Piano coat rack

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Piano style coat rack now a bag rack.

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Slant front desk

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Walnut slant front desk with Hepplewhite pulls.

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Downdraft Table

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Just finished this downdraft table including a reference stone on the left for flat sanding small pieces. It took less than a half sheet of 1/2” plywood, a 2'x4' piece of 3/4” melanine shelving, and some left over 1/8” underlayment for the bottom/baffle. The 3/4” holes provide good airflow and can also be used as dog holes to keep material from sliding around on the slick surface while sanding. The 4” dust extraction is placed on the top so it won't pick up screw, nails, or small pieces the fall through the 3/4” holes. The table also provides a 40” high work surface for general use as well as sanding… I use it a lot for finish work.

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Platter

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Still turning.

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CORONA arm chair

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CORONA armchair; mainly was finished during the quarantine time. Made of mixed wood, whichever was available on hand. Carved seat – ash, legs -red oak, armrest – walnut, backrest – redwood, stretchers – walnut, backrest spindles – spruce.
Finished 3 layers of tung oil, 3 layers of the oil-wax mix.

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