Sometimes I a maze myself
Furnished content. (from Lumberjocks.com)
I always wanted to make a wooden maze so I did.The material is lumber core that was salvaged from a Sylvania console stereo that my Dad bought in the early '60s. It's 7/8” thick with a poplar core and mahagony veneer on both sides. The side I cut was the better mahagony side.I cut the maze with a 1/4” cutter at a depth of 5/16”. I actually wanted to use a 5/16” round corner cutter but alas the cupboard was bare. My 1/4” ball bearings did not fit, after all what do you expect when you cut a 1/4” groove. So I searched, Amazon where else, and I found .236” brass ball bearings which fit the grooves without any problem.I expect, my grandkids may want to play with this so I added a 3/16” plexiglass cover, also from Amazon, and mounted it with my four very last four slotted brass screws. I cut a radius, and polished, on the top edge of the plexiglass just to make it softer to the touch.Laying out this first maze itself was not easy but now I have figured out how to do almost any maze. Another thing I learned was that a paper maze is typically smaller because the “wall” thickness is only a broad line and I wanted to keep a minimum 1/4” wall which I did in most cases (the thin walls are visible to the discerning eye)! There are three solutions to this maze and a section that has no entrance or exit (another silly mistake).It was a fun project, kept me out of trouble and busy while being locked up!
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posted at: 12:00am on 11-Apr-2020 path: /Woodworking | permalink | edit (requires password)
HOLLOW TURNING, My most CHALLENGING, PLUS ONE MORE
Furnished content. (from Lumberjocks.com)
This the last piece of the yellow cedar log I have been lathing hollow vessels. I had another design that I wanted to try. It was to have a pointed end that would sit into a holder with holes in the sides of it, and also a finial that had a ball with holes and hollowed out inside. It was a challenge but enjoyable and came out to some extend like I wanted. I would make improvement on the next one. This seems like the only picture of constructing it. The last step, it was larger at this point while I did the major turning, at the end turning it down to as sharp a p;point as I could.Then I made the finial and base for the pointy project. I made the base first and bored 4 holes in it, The next ime I would do 6 to make it more open and delicate. When I did the finial I needed to make six holes to make it look right.I was planning from the beginning to paint the base and finial black, but finished it natural to see what it would look like natural and provide a sealed base for the paint.In the end I had to see what it looked like black, which one do you like the best.The other hollow turning I did I believe was the first one I tried this spring, more traditional shape, pictured above, after that I experimented other more demanding shapes and bases.Thanks for looking and comments are much appreciated. Everyone keep working in your shops and stay safe.
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posted at: 12:00am on 11-Apr-2020 path: /Woodworking | permalink | edit (requires password)
Red Oak and slate craftsman style coffee table
Furnished content. (from Lumberjocks.com)
Using red oak, I made a frame for three pieces of slate, and then built the legs and skirt. I stained with a waterbased cherry stain/dye. I liberally used the stain, and rubbed it into the wood. It started to come alive. I finished it with a poly. The slate is uneven, but still works great. It is 18” high, and 44” long, 20” wide.
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posted at: 12:00am on 11-Apr-2020 path: /Woodworking | permalink | edit (requires password)
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