Here is a collection of some unfinished projects that have recently been completed. Three types of wood, picture 1, l. to r., Split Rail Cedar fence post, Maple remnant from a tree house, Amur cherry from my friend's yard in Edmonton. Hence they are from my F WOOD collection – free, fragile, fence post, fantastic!Being remnant wood the size and shapes of these boots puts them into my BS Art (Boot Satire). Profiles, shape, colour are one-of-a-kind! Enjoy! The BOOTMAN!
Hey Lumberjocks, it's been a while. Thought I would show off this table I made. The top is bookmatched spalted maple and the base and legs are walnut with mortise and tenon joints (cut with a combination of hand and power tools).
This was good practice cutting dovetails and fitting drawers. I had been keeping odds and ends under my bench in a cardboard box that was half-full of shavings, so I think this is a pretty good upgrade.I still haven't gotten half-blind dovetails that are good enough to put on something nice, but I feel like I improved a little with this project. Im going to find one or two more shop boxes to build with them before I try them on something for the house.
In 2003 one of my best friends and partner in my tattoo/piercing shop passed away unexpectedly. With his passing I closed my shop and moved out of the area. He was cremated and little did I know his remains were kept in a stainless steel container he used at his tattoo booth. A little over a year ago his widow asked me if I would be willing to make a urn for his ashes and asked me what it would cost. Cost? Nothing was my reply. It took me a while to make this as it had to be very special. I finally came up with this urn and his widow received it the day before, what would have been his 72nd birthday. RIP Brother! P.S. my apologies for the lousy background.
I made this bed for my 16 year old son out of solid cherry. Joinery within the headboard and footboard is mortise and tenon. The side rails are attached using bed hardware mortised into the rails and headboard/footboard. Finish is just a single coat of Oddie's oil which worked out great and smells wonderful.
Here's what happens when a Darrell Peart fan builds a new cabinet for his old stereo. I have yet to get a photo that shows what the finish looks like in real life. For the moment, imagine something halfway between the two pictures shown and you'll be close.If you're curious, that's a little laptop computer in a pull-out tray above the receiver. I use it to pump YouTube music through my good speakers.—Russ
Every year my team at work makes a wine themed gift basket for a silent auction to raise money for our company's charity of choice United Way. My part is to make the box as nice and cheaply as possible. This year I used it as an excuse to try out a new finishing technique. At least new to me. I used a dark stain and then took a dry paint brush and lightly painted it to give it an aged look. I guess what is new is old.
My brother called me last week to let me know a relative of his brother in law had passed away and had some hand tools none of the youngsters wanted, I was able to get a Stanley #78 rabbet plane, a Kunz spokeshave and a Keen Kutter KK7 plane for $ 20.00. I went to work on the #7 first. Over the last few days I soaked all the metal in rust remover and refinished the tote and knob. I flattened the sole and sides on my granite surface plate. The original Stanley blade was sharpened and has a great edge that cuts smoothly and razor thin. I was told this was probably purchased and used by their great grandpa (1897 – 1966). Does anyone know any details about this brand?
Hi all, I was travelling during the reveals of the swap so this project is a little late. My recipient was RichBolduc.I was scratching my head trying to come up with something interesting to make. My wife and I went into a local quaint little bar that had some of these games and people were drinking beer and playing and it hit me, a beer drinking game! I took multiple pictures and measurements and got started.Researching, I found that this game goes by multiple names but the most common is Shut the Box. Also called Blitz, Canoga, Klackers, etc. according to Wickipedia. It's an ancient game usually with one set of tiles (the little things with numbers on them) not four.First I started a plan using my home made sketchup.I modified the plan to add tenons on the inside pieces fit together with half lap joints, and dados with mitered corners on the outside pieces to add strength, all made from found maple board. This took a lot longer than expected and a lot of chisel work. (pictures below and pics 4 and 5 above) I made two games so I could send the best one.There is a rebate on the bottom of the outside pieces to receive a plywood bottom. After glue up (pic 6) I went to a saddle maker and picked up some leather and fit it on the inside to give the dice a better surface to roll on. I found a local guy who did the laser engraving on the leather. Finish was spray lacquer on the wood and leather.I bought some 3/16” diameter steel rod for the pivot and cut it to length. Next, I cut the tiles from some leftover oak, and drilled 7/32” holes near the bottom for the rod to slip through. I drew the numbers on the tiles by hand (all 72 of them) and started burning the numbers in. Also very time consuming.Finish was spray poly on the tiles for durability. The tiles have tiny steel washers between them to keep them separated. The tiles along with the end pieces that hold them together are removable along with the plywood bottom.I used spray adhesive on the underside of the leather, taped off the insides of the wood and carefully stuck it in. (The adhesive on the one I kept was coming loose so I'll use contact cement to attach it more permanently. I also sent Rich a PM warning him of this.)The rules as played in the little bar are: First person rolls the dice and turns down any combination of tiles that corresponds with the sum of the dice. Then each person in turn gets a roll, and so on, until one person gets all of his/her tiles turned down. Here, there are two versions for winning. 1) the first to turn down all tiles wins the game. 2) after one turns down all the tiles, each other person gets 1 more roll and the game ends. Or, make up your own rules.Thanks to Kenny for another great swap!
here is a walnut crib that i made for my son to be used by his new daughter(my new grandaughter}. she cam a month early so i'm behind on the delivery date. i have a lot of hours is this. way more that i would have dreamed. the original plane came out of wood magazine that i built 13 years ago for my oldest daughter to be used by my first grandson. that crib was to be passed down to the next child to use when they had children.well we found out that my youngest and her husband were expecting in may so crib number one headed to her house. 2 months later i found out my son and his wife were expecting so he asked me to build another crib. they picked waslnut as the species of wood they wanted and the finish.cut down a walnut tree in my back yard 2 1/2 years ago and my neighbor cut down 2 trees and gave me his walnut logs from his 2 trees if i would make him a live edge coffee table. pretty good deal i figured so i agreed.i made some modifications to the Wood magazine plan so i could use my new festool domino fasteners and they worked greatli had a few issues in the finish as i forgot to wipe of the excess tung oil finish after the second coat so it took about 10 days to cure out.all that is left is the matress support.delivery set for labor day.
This was my project for this years beer swap. I made it out of oak. Originally tried making a star at the top with my jigsaw but I had to put so much pressure on the wood to keep the jigsaw from bouncing that the star broke so I cut it off. I got to thinking about the project while driving one day(I drive a truck for a living) and decided the beer bottle caps would add a nice touch. I glued on another piec of oak on either side and used a hole saw to make the holes for the caps. I didnt have the correct saw but I was able to use one a little bigger. Without drilling all the way through I was able to put the caps on the center piece of the hole that the hole saw normally removes. I didnt glue the caps on so they can be pried off and swapped out as desired. I finished with 3 coats of deft. It will hold 8 beers.
Latest iteration of my signature plane design. This one is a true Lumbejocks collective effort. The beautifully tight-grained sapele body was purchased from firetowerfp and the wonderfully figured Norway maple tote came from summerfi. It was a piece he milled himself and I bought a few pieces for plane building. Here's a couple other shots of the tote:As great as that figure looks in pics, it's a thousand times better in personThis plane is a variation on my standard 9in smoother. It sports a single 2in wide Hock O1 iron (as opposed to the normal 1-3/4 double iron on this size plane). Iron is bedded at 50 degrees, with a super tight mouth and is capable of exceptional performance.Thanks for looking, on to the next one.
I made this media credenza out of cherry and walnut. The door panels are made from the crotch of a flowering cherry tree that used to be my front yard. (thanks to mdzehr for help with resawing!!). And the drawers are poplar. I finished it with Maker Brand Simple Finish with wax sealer. The top is 67 inches wide.
This is gift for the daughter of a friend of mine. They said she was looking for a unique wood wine rack and wanted the grain showing..not painted..This one is made from two wine crates of French wine plus some American pine. When I went to the party store to see if they had any more crates, they said most all wine comes in corrugated cardboard cartons. Only the most expensive wine comes in crates any more and you have to buy a full case to get the crate.The size of this rack was limited by the width or the crate boards. It finished at 13 5/8” square x 6 1/2” deep, each opening is 3 3/8” square. It can be free standing or wall mountedIt is finished with clear lacquer.Cheers, Jim
Back in 2017, I had an opportunity to take a class on working with live edge slabs. I had decided on tables for my family room, but had a very hard time with a design that my wife also liked. My wife seemed to think Live edge would give our home to much of a cabin feel. In the end she found a table on pinterest that she liked. It has the live edge, but she said not to rustic. So that set the style of the project. The tables are made from Alligator Juniper, with Walnut legs. The first three tables, (two end tables, and a sofa table) were made in the class back in 2017. The three table tops are from a single slab. About 1.75” thick. And the lower shelf was from two thin boards that I was able to book match.Then just a couple weeks ago, 8/2019, I finished the fourth and final table. A entertainment/ TV stand. Made from the same wood. The lower shelf was in rough shape, and took a fair amount of epoxy to fill in the voids.So back up to 2017. All I had was a pinterest photo that was a dead end link. Just as I finished the fourth table, and was responding to another forum here on LJ about live edge work. I stumbled across the photo that had inspired this whole project. This time that photo took me to Corey Morgan Wood works. Here is a link to his Instagram, and contact info. He is a full time woodworker, and turning out some amazing work. https://www.instagram.com/coreymorganwoodworks/ And here is a photo of his table that inspired it all.
I would blame the heat for sitting on my butt in the A/C while drawing with a hot metal tip but maybe it's just laziness. I'm practicing at replicating photos since I've been semi retired and have some time on my hands. I'm also thinking that people might actually pay for personal or pet portrait burnings even though I've not tried to market or sell anything, that may have to change. But that's a whole other subject. These images are from many years ago in their younger days. If you can't identify them you are not welcome in my shop.
I really wanted to participate in this year's Beer Swap since I sat out last year. Unfortunately, I've been without a shop for 6 months while we are in an apartment waiting for a new house to be built. That meant I needed to finish my swap project in February, before I packed up the shop.I had a lot of exotic wood left from making the various mosaics over the last year and I have been wanting to make some smaller versions, so coasters were the perfect solution. I could make several different prairie style mosaics, use up my remaining exotic wood stash, and get it done before I put everything in storage.The build was similar to other mosaics I've made, a lot of looking at prairie style stained glass and Frank Lloyd Wright inspired stained glass on the internet, followed by detailed CAD plans, and ultimately designs that aren't even close to what I originally envisioned.I did manage to get everything finished two days before the movers arrived.That meant most of 6 agonizing months waiting for the ship date. I sent my progress picture in a month before the swap even started. I've been told I hold the dubious record for the earliest swap project completion.In the end, having the project ready to ship at a minute's notice worked out as Anthm27 (Anthony) joined the swap even though he lives in Hong Kong. He was able to give HokieKen a couple of days notice that he would be in Chicago on business. Since I live in IA, 2 day shipping to Chicago was the perfect solution. The box with his swap swag arrived one day before he did.Hopefully, one of these times when Anthony is in Chicago on business I can meet up with him and we can tour FLW's Oak Park Studio and have a couple Midwestern beers.
Hello and thanks for checking this out!This is a stand I originally made for watching Netflix on my phone so I don't have to cradle it awkwardly on my leg or stomach. I made one for my nightstand too so my phone is always in the same spot when I wake up for work. This is version 1 and I like the concept enough that i'll make another one that looks a bit more appealing.Currently it is just an angled chunk of wood with a ledge doweled and glued on! I plan to make another thats less bulky and is hollow in the center. If you're wondering, I used toothpicks as dowels
When I started woodworking 5 years ago, in the basement of our old house, I knew dust collection was a must have. So I made a traffic cone cyclone. While building it I thought, I'll just buy a shop vac for the suction side, until I stumbled over my leaf blower. Built a filter box with the leaf blower held on top with plumbers strapping for easy removal the once a year I need to use it for its intended purpose. In the new shop I installed 2 1/2” piping with blast gates and a remote starter. It was a temporary solution but it is working better than expected so I have no immediate plans to change it.
Unknown woods. When I began with the blank, it was an experiment to see if I could get away with making a 70 degree cut. It worked. A little less show-offy than the previous two, I admit. But, I like it. It's a Slimline. The hardest part, really (aside from the bending over the table saw), was deciding which end would be the top and which the bottom. I think I chose wisely.Thank you. And, I apologize.
This entry/hall table is one of my favorite projects. It has a 5/4 live edge walnut top and skirt and the legs are 8/4 walnut. I wasn't sure about the leg design until I got it together and decided it worked really well. Sanded to 320 and finished with 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal.
Made this chair from African mahogany with laminated red oak for the crest. I used the Anarchist Design book for the plans, but decided to saddle the seat for a little comfort. The finish is red milk paint and oil.Not sure why the pictures are sideways or how to fix them!
The carcass is Ash and the drawer boxes are Walnut. It was quite a challenge to book-match the drawer fronts, but I'm happy how it came out. Drawer fronts have a rare earth magnet imbedded. Keys are still in the works that will also have a magnet imbedded to open the drawers. Thanks for looking.
I just finished this little bench. The seat is Tulip and the legs are poplar, it is very light weight. The legs are octagon with a turned tenon and are thru the seat and wedged. !8 inches high by 24 inches long
I build a bed from beech lumber to my daughter (se separate project). She obvious liked the result, because she asked me if I could build a solid beech desktop for her as well.I must admit that my initial thought was to find a free composit tabletop on Finn (the Norwegian version of Craigslist) and just cut that to shape.However, I thought it was nice that she appriciate the look and feel of real wood – so I went at it.The top is made from two slaps cut into three 17cm wide and 4.5cm thick boards. I got them to right size on the jointer/thicknesser and used biscuits to align the edges during glueup.When jointing the edges I took care to run them the opposite way through the jointer so that the joints should be straight – I did however get some wave in both joints causing the top to bot be flat after the glueup.So them it was at it and I fot the top fairly flat usong just hand planes and some snding afterwards. This is the first time I have flattened a top using hand planes, and it worked quite well.After sanding the top up to 180 sandpaper I finished it with some boiled linseed oil. Have to note that I'm not quite happy with the result, there are some bleach marks. Next time I will probably do a layer og gel stain before adding the oil finish.The desk top is shaped to the wall and rests on two runners attached to the wall on each side. The fastning betwen the runners and the table top allow for the top to expand or contract as humidity changes and the wood expand or constract.
My daughter needed a new bed – and was looking at a quite simple Ikea bed.I show her some pictures and sait that it might be possible to build something. She liked the idea and I designed and built this bed to her.She have been using it some weeks no and it seems to be a success. She use the platform around the bed for a lot of stuff, like books and other stuff.The bed is finished with boiled linseed oil.
This is just a simple 6' picnic table that I made for our next door neighbors. They are from Russia and were exiled from Russia when the Soviet Union broke up. The 1st President Bush took many refugees to the US. I can't say enough about how nice our new neighbors are the best neighbors anyone could ask for. It feels good to be able to help them get on their feet. I found some discounted PT lumber at HD's and a 10 ft umbrella on our neighborhood site and got this done for them.This build took just over a days work in the shop and only cost $61.66 for all the wood and hardware including the umbrella. They were very thankful! Funny how that 10' umbrella makes the table look small.Oh.. the table was too heavy to carry so I attached some wheels to it and we rolled it over to their patio. Now they can enjoy the day in the shade! Thanks for looking in!
These are my newest pieces of kinetic art. Although I typically make some pretty complex pieces, I decided to go the opposite route with these and make them super simple. Each “Gyre” uses a spinning wheel to create an interesting visual effect. Part of the wheel looks like its moving outward, and part of it looks like it's moving inward. There are no springs, weights, escapements, or complex mechanisms – just a simple pattern and a couple bearings. The Gyres come in three flavors: a nautilus, a snail, and a turtle.Here's a video to see them in action: https://youtu.be/10ThtLQUs10If you'd like to build one for yourself, plans are available on my website: www.derekhugger.comI hope you like them!-Derek
I am basically the Historian for our small town of 3,800 people. Our local Fairbury Fair first started in 1876, and still runs today.In 1976, our local newspaper re-created 2 old fair posters…...........one for the 1890 Fair and one for the 1900 Fair.A local citizen moved to California, but he continued to receive our local newspaper. He died. One of his descendants hand carried the old 43 year old newspaper on a plane from California to Illinois and gave it to me in July of 2019. The 2 old fair posters are really neat, but they had significant creases in them that detracted from the images.I was wondering, “How the heck can you remove 43 year old creases from a fragile newspaper?”Then I remembered a trick I learned in the early 1980's. Back then I was making wood picture frames. After finishing the frame, putting in the glass and photo….......then I white Elmer glued brown grocery bag paper onto the back as a dust seal. The brown paper was not tight and slightly wrinkled. Somehow, I learned that if you rub a web rag on the brown paper and wet it….............and then let it dry…...........the brown paper draws up tighter than a drum…....and stays that way…........like magic !!I decided to try out this old trick on the fragile 43 year old newspaper. I made a wood frame using scrap 1×4's with Kreg pocket screws. I Elmer glued the old newspaper to the wood frame. Then after 5 cycles of wetting the back of the newspaper with a wet rag….....and then electric blow drying it….......all the creases tightened up!!I used Microsoft Paint to do a little more digital touch-up…........and the old images are as good as new!!I plan to have a print shop make me some new copies…............wood frame then….....and then donate to our local museum and local charity auction.You can see my whole process at my woodworking web site.thanks
Hi AllFinally finished my fourth project since starting woodwork, so 2x grandchildren done, 1x mum done and the most important girl in my life 1x wife done ;-) So now 2x grandchildren to do 1x dad, 1x son and 5x daughters to do :( and not sure I will live long enough to do them all so need to get a wiggle on.I am afraid the moment I finished this my wife had it from my hands and was transferring all her sewing stuff from her little Roses Chocolate tub straight to her Sewing box, hence the pictures have all her sewing stuff in there.I used Steamed beech for the main box and Walnut for the trims and outer legs. Its the first time I have used Walnut and whilst expensive I really love it, when I sanded it down it was just so smooth. I really struggled again getting squared cuts as my 99 table saw is just so inaccurate and I do not have the experience to figure out how to work around it so in reality this project has plenty of faults if you know where to look for them, but to the untrained eye (my wife) its still wonderful.My wife wanted something to sit on in the mornings while she blow-dries her hair hence the padded seat on the lid, the material is pretty thin but it is what she wanted. The letter is something I have done with my grandchildren's projects and now my wife's. On the lid of the box there is a panel screwed down inside the middle of the walnut trim and then covered with the same upholstery as the top, under the panel is this letter for my wife only to be opened when I left this mortal world. Something my grandad did for my mum and sisters nd it gave them a lot of comfort after he was gone so I make a habit of doing the same now.Anyway I hope you like it, now to think of things to make for grandchildren 3 and 4 LOL
Well Hi guys and ladies ,, it as been some time from the last time I post it some of my woodwork ,, I move to Edmonton AB Last September / 2018 from Thunder Bay Ontario,,I build this Cab Over 99 & Trailor for a friend back in Thunder Bay ,,feel's good getting back in the set Bruce
My woodworking club has been asked to make nesting boxes for wood ducks for use in our area. I had some cedar, which is supposed to be ideal for this purpose and slapped this one together. It was a quick project – all butt joints and screws. I hope the ducks enjoy it.
Hello fellows,at this time one more screwdriver for use at handplanes cap iron screw.Another friend ask me to do one more. At this one I decided to add some charm and a new level of skills.I have a Mortise Pal and I used it for make a groove in a precise and quickly way.See the pictures below.The idea of shape started here.I choose a Brazilian good quality wood.First I did the groove before to cut circular final shape.
I don't have a lathe and I was thinking in make the round groove using a small router e a round bit. I make this recess using a Forstener bit for starts the cut from here.But I thought this cut unsafe and gave up.
I choose these tools to make the round groove.
At back to suport I used a shelf pin (5mm) like this After a rough cut using a microplane rasp I made one pass using the cylinder burr rasp/bit and after used a pencil for find possible high spots (remember a round cut from hole saw is not 100% perfect round).I rasped high spots before a new pass.The back pin supports the piece. I Remember do not go so far.The blades I made using a stainless steel 1 1/4”x1/8” flat bar.Iglued the blades with epoxy glue.
I made this box for my brother's 40th birthday gift. Wenge and curly maple.I knew I wanted the design to feel “masculine” and I think to that end I was successful. My brother has a bunch of watches and rings, so this is designed with those items in mind. It's roughly 9” X 14”X 5 1/2”.Thick leather lined drawers. Splined miter construction cut from a single piece of Wenge. Sliding dovetail bottom keeps the sides braced in front. Half lap partitions. Brusso stop hinges. Lacquer finish.This was my first time using lacquer and I quite like it.Wish I had taken more pictures!Thanks for looking.
Hello fellow LJ's. Recently finished this cab over truck. I used both the Toys and Joys plan and the Gatto plan with my spin. Truck came out better than I anticipated. I used Ash, Walnut and Purple Heart. I used plexi-glass for the windows as all the wiring runs through the cab and i want to hide that. I believe I will try to make a grain trailer for the truck. As always all comments are welcome. Thank you.If your in the St. Louis area I would recommend running to St. Charles and checking out U-Pick hardwoods. I took my family to Six Flags and we swung by there to 'look'. Ended up picking up the Purple Heart from there. Service and pricing were great.
This is a mitered and splined box of poplar, cedar and mesquite. It is number 17 in my 2019 Box Build. This one is a bit of a hodge podge of a box. I originally did the intarsia orchid for box number 16, my Soft Dovetail Box, but I didn't plan it out well and the orchid was orginally sideways/horizontal on the lid for that box. When I changed the design to make the panel and the orchid in a vertical orientation on the lid, the lid was too large for that box. I ended up putting the orchid aside and making a different lid for that box.This is the results of building a slightly larger box to fit that lid. I am still on the fence about the proportions of some of the elements on this one.The feet and some of the design features look similar to the Soft Dovetail Box but there are subtle differences. On the curved sides this one has more of an ogee shape and the mesquite splines really accentuate the curves. I put a couple of beads in the lid with my stanley 45. The texturing on the panels on either side of the orchid were dappled with a blunt punch on the outer cedar panels and carved with a flexshaft on the poplar center panel. The frame of the lid and the orchid got a light white wash before the shellac and wax.The feet may look like the ones from the previous box but they were constructed in a different way. The bottom of this box is a captured 3/16s plywood panel in a groove. The feet were attached to the corners of the box then shaped. On the last box the bottom was one piece with a recessed pocket that the box sat in. Those feet were part of that platform. Much of the curves on the box and especially the feet were shaped with chisels and a gouge then a few rasps before sanding.I have a love/hate relationship with poplar. It is so easy to work and sometimes the tones in the wood are beautiful. What I have been finding though is that it is hard to stain. I still haven't played around with filling grain before I stain and finish my pieces. This got a little bit splotchy but I think it will “mellow” with some time.The finish is a bit all over the place. There is the white washing of some of the lid but then everything got a wipe on blend of oil based poly, mineral spirits and a splash of fruitwood oilbased stain. That was followed with clear shellac and then Johnson's Paste Wax.Dims are 9 1/2 long by 5 1/2 deep and 6 1/2 tall. This box will have hinges by the weekend.Thanks for looking. Jon
base is make of 2 separate pieces make of 2×4's top is boarded with poplar and the middle is hardwood flooring with a glass top. i started to make this for a bigger room at an old house and moved i wish now I made it a little smaller but it still trued out great.
Looking at my project page I realized I have not posted anything since 2017! My LJ buddy “justoneofme” has been encouraging me to post some more so here goes1 I had some Irish dancing medals of my Dad's and wanted to display them with the justice they deserved. I created our family coat of arms in marquetry and displayed the medals around it. Some of these medals date back to 1937. I think my Dad would have liked what I did. I am going to get the display professionally framed.
My most recent completed project is this walnut dining table. It's roughly 8ft long and 3.5ft wide. The legs are steel, which I painted with a semi-gloss black paint. The top was finished with two coats of Rubio-monocoat and one of wax.I decided to use this simple build as an opportunity to develop my hand tool skills. Jointing the boards proved to be quite the exercise both in patience and physically.Overall I'm pleased with the end result and love how the walnut looks in the sun.
A coworker of mine commissioned this box for glass storage for stained glass project prices. It's super simple 3/4 ply with dowel joints and thru dados for 1/4 ply dividers which were shaped to allow for easy access. The dividers are a snug fit, but are not glued if the need ever arises for taking them out. Wasn't even aloud to finish it but it's nice to have something handmade appreciated and getting use. Interior dimensions are 14×14x24
I have had all my drill press accessories spread all over my shop for a while now, and I decided to build a cabinet for storage underneath the table of my floor standing drill press. The cabinet is constructed of 3/4 Radiata pine ply from big orange. Btw, I think that particular product is the best value of all plywood available at any big box store. Initially, I was going to build 2 deep drawer units on either side of the pillar of my drill press, but then decided that I would prefer wider shallow drawers.I built 5 rabbeted drawers for storage. At the last minute I added a pull out tray on top using some drawer slides I had lying around. I attached a magnetic tool hanger and have commonly used bits stored there.I built my drill press able by laminating 2 sheets of the same 3/4 ply. I cut the grooves for the Rockler T-Track using the table saw. I routed out the space for the replaceable table insert freehand. To round the corners on the table, I used a lid lying around, traced the radius and took it to my disc sander.I am pleased with the outcome and look forward to putting it to work.Thanks for looking!
This is certainly my biggest woodworking accomplishment yet beside my continuing home reno. Not sure the house always counts a woodworking though. This is constructed completely from the 2X Cull lumber scrap bin from the BORG. So probably some kind of SPF. Its a Cole Rocking Chair from Mr. Cole's website. Easy enough to Google. After a lot of lamination, a heck of a lot of time with a grinder, a heck of a lot more time with a sander, and a quick coat of boiled linseed oil. Its finally done. For the full build which I have documented pretty much every step of the way, the link is below.So glad and proud its done.https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/202450#reply-5230037
To go with the Key/Phone Caddy these fobs make good use of those bits you just can't throw away. I start with a blank 2” x 2” x 1/2”, drill a hole at one corner and then put it in the G3 lathe chuck and hollow it out. Bowl turning 101 I then set the band saw at 10 degrees and shape the outside. I also made some out of plastic and polished them with a small buffer mounted in a drill chuck of the lathe. Dan
Hello everyone. A project always useful and that I like. Not too much merit, more than the choice of wood colors, and the patience to glue the parts; and then sand everything. All hardwoods, so hard work is taking to the same level. I do this “by eye” and with a common rotary sander. The woods are: guayovira, quebracho colorado, quebracho blanco, grapia and anchico. I particularly liked the ends that I lowered so that they serve to grab. I hope you like them! Until next time. Greetings from Argentina
I was commissioned to recreate this Finger Post road sign. The only thing the client provided was a photo from 1968, showing the sign from her fathers front yard when he was stationed in England.The post and arms were simple enough, but I had two major concerns; 1, Was which font was used for the lettering, and 2, the spacing of the black and white painted sections.I began researching online and found the font Transport that looked spot on. Then I researched and found some companies in England that still make these style of signs. After emailing the companies, and waiting over two weeks without getting a reply, I decided to just make each section 12 in length.I used an 8' 4×4 as the center structure, then used 4 pieces of 1×4x6 pine and covered the bottom 6' of the post. The pieces lap over 3/4 as they go around the post. This effectively added 1.5 in width to the lower section. I did this to create the stepped shoulder.I created a template so that I could use my router to create a mortise through the upper section in order to pass the long finger through the entire post. I had to route from both sides to cut all the way through the board. I squared up the hole with a chisel.I used the same template and turned the piece 90 degrees to cut a notch for the single finger arm. I used two 5 long lag bolts to secure through the solid arm, into the end of the single arm, essentially locking them all together.I applied 4 coats of primer and another 4 coats of semigloss exterior paint (all white). Then applied 4 coats of the black paint.The only thing I would have done differently was to start with a 10' 4×4 and 8' 1×4's, because once it was put into the ground, at least 1.5' were lost to the foundation. You can see the height difference of the post between the two photos, one of me standing next to it (I am 6'), and the one of the recipient standing next to it once it was installed.The project was a gift for his 74th birthday and his daughter, the one who commissioned it, said he became very emotional when they walked him out to show him his surprise.
I,ll try to keep this long story short, The long story can be seen here on a running forumThe short story, My Mate Simon is building an A-Frame house in Japan, he had a very difficult space to fit a stair in. Roof height was the biggest problem both on the A frame side and the height of the initial rise. I started to do some homework on it and ran the forum, with lots of research and help from people here and in particular Tony_S , this is what we ended up with.This was done over a week of days off. Lumber was difficult to get in Hokkaido Japan and we ran out of time to order good stuff, ended up with low grade pine of 38mm thick. I laminated the stringers to get double thickness.Treads where checked into the stringer using a template and flush trim plunge router bit, then fixed with 9mm 5 inch coach bolts.Anyways , the stair super structure finished nice and strong , The wood will just need some dressing up before oil or hopefully paint.Some pics of the construction.Special mention to My Lovie Cheryl who worked along side me continually for 4 and 1/2 days with out one whinge.Thanks for reading. Regards Anth
I have made about 6 scroll saw puzzles for the grandkids….....they love to play with them.On this one, I thought I would try something different. I wanted to include my grandson's name on this puzzle.My process was:1. Cut pine blank2. Paint blank white on both sidesNote: Use oven at 120F to speed up paint drying process3. Apply blue masking tape to top of blank4. Glue full scale pattern of puzzle from Sketchup onto blue tape using white Elmer's glue5. Scroll saw the puzzle6. remove paper pattern and blue tape7. Using carbon paper, and a Sketchup print-out of the letters, trace them through the carbon paper8. Paint letters 1st time, bake in oven for 10 minutes9. Give 2nd coat of paint to letters and bake10. Apply blue masking tape as guide for top and bottom horizontal 1/4” wide bars11. Paint 2 coats of paint for the 2 bars12. Remove blue masking tape13. Paint back greyIf I do another one like this, I would change my background color from white to maybe grey or dark yellow…...I just don't care for the white.I would also paint the 2 horizontal stripes before I scroll sawed the puzzle. I did them last, and had some paint bleed under the blue masking tape at the saw joints.But, I bet my grandson and his sister will still love playing with it !If you are interested in all the details of this project…..........see my web site.thanks
Wanted a good outdoor chair for me and the wife. Made with treated pine and all the hardware is stainless to keep the rust away here on the Gulf Coast. Hope you enjoy, PS. Sorry about the sideway picture. I don't know why it is turned.
1) The dust hood behind the Spindle Sander works well in tandem with the provided collection point. However, after loosing a few wood pieces and a brush down the 4” duct I decided to do something about it. The 1/2” hardware cloth does the trick, and the three sided frame makes it very easy – especially on the fingers- to remove and replace.2) The dust hood behind the miter saw works very well with the arrangement shown in pictures 5 & 6.. It works even better after the 2 1/2” hose drop was replaced with a 4” hose.
We needed a place off of the kitchen counter for our pod coffee maker and the Espresso machine. Used wood I had plus one piece of 24×24 tile we had to buy. Was fun sizing it to the space. Drawers sized for the pods on top and deeper drawers on the bottom. The door holds a power strip and supplies underneath
This is another project that has been banging around inside my head for years. I started in January,and had to put it on hold for a few months of remodeling. It's tough getting back into something, at least for me.Then it got put on hold again for another couple months. I wondered if I would ever get done.To compound my problems, I made 2 at the same time. That's a lot of things to keep track of. I'm glad I hung in there, these will be gifts.The big tray will lift out, there is a 1/4” space under the tray when installed. A money stash.The box is spline mitered, the trays are rabbet joints.The insert in the top is laminated hardboard.14” x 14” x 5 and 1/2” Cherry and Baltic Birch ply. Mohawk Dead Flat lacquer and wax.
More Live Edge Walnut Cutting/serving Boards A feiw years ago, my brother gave me a walnut log about 40 inches long and 12 inches in diameter. After storing it for while, I had it sawed into 1” boards and stacked them in the rafters in my garage, seperated by stickers. These boards are rustic, following the outside of the original log (bark removed), and showing the lighter sapwood along both edges. Each has a thumb/hanging hole and has been sanded to 220 before several applications of food grade cutting board oil. The two with the maple accent stripes are about 10-11 inches long, and the rest range from 12-16 inches. I guess my brother will get to choose his favorite.
Hey Jocks.I have a Smithy ShopSmith that my grandfather gave me. I finally fired up the lathe function a couple of days ago. I'm hooked. This is my third turning attempt.I've never had a lesson, I just watched some guys on YouTube and decided to go at it. So any advice you want to offer would be greatly appreciated.
I just bought some micromesh sanding pads for pen polishing and wanted to make a storage box for them so they don't get all mixed up during use. I did that for my different sandpaper grits so I though this would work well too. Pull one out…use it ….......and put it right back… so they stay in order.I made the box out of box elder.( I have a big stack right outside the shop door). It holds 9 – 2×2 padsIt is 3 1/8” x 4 1/4” x 2 5/8” high and finished with clear semi gloss enamel.cheers, Jim
We needed to replace the TV tray with an odd sized shelf that could store some kitchen gadgets and a keyboard and mouse. I found some pictures online of styles that we liked and this is what I came up with.Two shelves and a keyboard tray, wife is super happy with it :) and so am I
So, we've got to the first of the 'boxes' – Dotti Kogei, that I entered in the Box Category of this year's 2019 Western Australia Out Of The Woods competition.This box, or is at a chest of drawers, was inspired by Japanese woodworker Suda Kenji. He has the status of a 'Living National Treasure' - Holder of an Important Intangible Cultural Property, Moku-kogei (Fine Woodwork). He is an exceptional 'Fine Woodworker' with his own gallery and studio in the small town of Ganura-cho, in the Gunma Prefecture of Japan. Check it out here. You will quickly see where I got my inspiration from I had the privilege of meeting Suda san and visiting his gallery and workshop in May 2019 - a truly memorable experience.Suda-san describes his work as kogei - art crafts, though there is no real translation. Kogei is a uniquely Japanese term that brings together a whole range of western concepts that embrace traditional woodwork, creativity, art, craft, and artistic expression. The word is used to categories items which though they have a function, are intrinsically 'beautiful things', which goes well beyond their utility value. You will see this in all Suda-sans boxes - traditional western style hinged lids are absent in his work.My Kogie box is presented in a typical Japanese Tsutsumi, gift wrapped fashion. It is offered in a paulownia (kiri) wooden outer storage box, called a Tomobako, or Kiribako.The engraved wooden panel on the top, written in Japanese Kanji characters, has the title of the contents, my name, together with where and when it was made.Dotti Kogei Kogei : Box / Small chest of drawers : / Made by : Martin Burgoyne : Jarrahdale WA : September 2018 to March 2019 : 20189 20193 As well as its outer Tamobako, my kogei box is also gift wrapped to add more 'suspense' and mystery to what lies inside. A traditional Furoshiki fabric square, sewn by my wife, is used for the 'gift' wrapping.The Tamobako and Furoshiki cover are both tied with traditional Japanese Sanada Himo cotton tapes.So, to the actual 'box'. It sits on a decorative tray made from Rosewood and walnut, with inlays of lace wood, together with shell and opal dots, a theme that goes across all elements of the box. The 'box' is in fact two small chests of drawers that can be locked together by traditional Japanese spring locks. Once unlocked the two chests of drawers can be separated, turned around and placed back on the tray so that the drawers are accessible.They can also be taken off the tray so that it can be used separately, or as a place for the contents of drawers.The two chests of drawers have book matched burr elm veneers with highlights of rosewood and lace wood. A black banding sprinkled with gold dust, and with inlays of shell and opal dots surrounds the two chests of drawers. The inside is veneered with maple.The five internal drawers are made of lime and have gold dust sprinkled interiors - a change from my usual goat suede. They continue the black banding theme of the outside of the chests, with shell, opal and gold dust inlays on their fronts.The drawer knobs are made of opal cabochons mounted in sliver claw settings - they are actually stud earrings! Thedrawers are jointed using tiny biscuits, unlike Suda-sans secret mitered dovetails….......As I often do in my work, there is a separate 'hidden' box inside. This small box, 'hidden' at the back of the largest drawer, matches the main chests, with similar book matched burr elm veneers, lace wood bandings and a black banding with gold dust highlights and shell and opal dots. It is lined with blue goat skin suede, to match the outer Furoshiki fabric.In typical Japanese woodworking fashion, there are no visible joints. A feature used in western woodwork, often to demonstrate our prowess as craftsmen, but frowned upon in Japanese woodwork!!I'm in my Japanese period a the moment and have moved away from the marquetry that I so enjoyed doing in past years. A comment in Suda-sans book about using the natural beauty of the wood, rather too much vulgar decoration made me re-think as well ….....Why Dotti Kogei? Its name is derived from the shell and opal 'dots' which bring the different elements of this kogei box together, and of course my wife's first name is Dorothy!If you are wondering, yes it came first in the Box category in this years Western Australia Wood Show. Check it out here. My usual rival in the Box category knocked me down to 2nd place the last two years, which prompted me to raise my game - so thanks DT.I hope you enjoyed looking at it, as much as I enjoyed making it. Can't wait to start the next Japanese style 'box'!!
This was built entirely of reclaimed wood, primarily from pallets (hence the random nail holes), except for a birch plywood base inside the cabinet. Species are approximate, because I don't know the provenance of the wood, but my best guesses are oak for the frame and the door stiles and rails and tabletop banding, basswood for the inset panels and and unknown hardwood for the table top. Corrections and educated guesses are welcome!I don't yet have a jointer, so I jointed edges on a table saw sled and planed heavily with a thickness planer. When I say “heavily” I mean I had about 50 gallons of chips when I was done.I'm a relative novice, and this was the first project in which I used mortise and tenon joinery. I built a table saw jig to make the tenons and I built a router jig to make the mortises. Other than cutting too deep (all the way through!) on my first mortise, I didn't have any difficulties. I chose to round off the tenons with sandpaper rather than chisel out the mortises. I used a slot bit for the frames and rabbeted down the inset basswood panels to fit into the slots.The hardware is all junk shop finds except for new magnet catches (hidden).I stained the basswood to better match the rest of the wood, but didn't stain anything else. It's finished with polyurethane, which I applied with a Wagner spray gun I had but had never used for fine finishing before. THAT was a revelation after having brushed on finishes for years! I'm not 100% happy with how red some of the oak (stile/rail) is in contrast to the other wood, but it wasn't that red before finishing, and fortunately the contrast is not as pronounced in the house as it is in bright sun in the driveway.Lessons learned: Double-check and triple-check the depth setting on the plunge base when routing mortises. Test finish on scraps from EVERY part of a build. I need more clamps. A lot more clamps.
Started a new Rosewood sculpted piece this morning. This one will be about 25” tall when complete. The base is wenge and the finish is spray lacquerSeveral people have asked what I use to do the shaping. Well, here it is…my Makiita variable speed grinder with a rubber backing pad and a sanding disc. This created a LOT of sawdust. I have a downdraft table, 2 squirrel cage dust filters and also use a trend air shield pro. My sanding area is an enclosed 5×10' area of my shop.
My daughter is expecting her first child in a few months. (Yes, my wife and I are going to be grandparents! We're understandably excited.) Some good friends hosted a baby shower for my daughter the other day and I managed to get this finished in time so this would be among the gifts she received. I “borrowed” the idea from a fellow Lumberjock — Jim Jakosh — thanks, Jim. I decided on cherry and used pretty much the same techniques that Jim described, although I did chuck up a round nose router bit in my drill press to round the bottoms of the holes I drilled with a forstner bit. It's about 5” long and 1-3/16” diameter with a 5/8” diameter stem. I finished it with a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. And if it looks like I may turned through to the interior, that little dark spot you see in some of the pics is just a natural feature of the cherry.
This is what a woodworker builds when someone comes in her yard and steals the store bought one. I should be thanking the thief! Based on Spike Carlson's Family Handyman layout and directions, I took 1/2 inch plywood and made a slightly smaller version of his design. 1 Sheet of plywood and some PT pine for the handles and legs covered in a transparent deck stain and I've got a, better then my stolen one, garden cart. I used 3 ft threaded rod and fender washers with 2 nuts jammed together for the axle. The wheels are all hardened plastic so I don't have to worry about deflate gate. All pieces are fastened with construction adhesive and exterior wood screws. Now I have something to carry the weeds in from the garden I tried to grow! Thanks for looking!
Forget-me-not was another entry in this years 2019 Out Of The Wood competition at the annual Western Australia Wood Show. This was entered in the Small Treasures category.It was an experiment using a piece of solid jarrah burl to create a small box. - The block was roughed out to shape on the band-saw. - A large forstner bit was used to drill out the interior to depth. - Three small holes for pegs to lock the lid – two at one end and one at the other, were then drilled. - The shape was then created on a disc sander. - The block was then sawn to make the lid. - The inside edges of the overlapping forstner bit holes were then levelled. - A piece of rose was glued on the base to form the bottom.So a simple process. With pegs glued into the three holes n the main body locating in their mates in the lid, the basic box was completed. Holes in the burl were filled and the whole box was then sanded smooth. A few coats of polyurethane were applied to seal everything.I could now experiment with the decoration on the lid. A strip of gold mother of pearl was inlaid, and then the flowers were formed.First the stems of the forget-me-nots were then painted on with polyurethane. After a couple of minutes super-fine gold-dust was sprinkled on, which stuck to the stull sticky poly.I then used very thin laminated Pau shell sheet for the flower petals. The thin shell sheet meant the petals could be easily cut out with a scalpel. These were glued on with super glue, holes were drilled for the centre of the flowers and mother of pearl dots were super-glued in.I now applied numerous coats of polyurethane to build up a surface level with the pau shell, so it could be sanded smooth without cutting into the gold-dust of the stems. Once reasonably level, more coats were added and sanded to enable me to build up and lacquerware type finish.So, a relatively quick and easy project apart from waiting for the numerous coats of polyurethane to dry. I'm looking forward to trying more of the applied shell and gold-dust techniques on some future small works.Thanks for looking.
I made this band saw box for my grand daughter. Her name is Ellie, hence the “E”. It challenged me at every turn, and I almost gave up a few times, but here it is. It is purple heart, walnut, and maple, 3 coats of wipe on poly (great product). I did not want any pulls on the purple heart surface so I made dowel push holes on the rear of the box, works quite well, and unclutters the fronts. I almost gave up on this project a few times but reminded myself for the millionth time to not quit and finish what you start. Oh, and if you have problems sanding inside the drawer cavities, flocking works great there also. Thanks everyone.
The wife said I need a small writing table for my office. I would like it ASAP. I said OK, and started planing some Oak I bought 2 years ago. The table took me all day Saturday and part of the day Sunday. I was pretty much done and she came out and Said, EW – I need those knot holes filled in Dear. So I bought some Epoxy and and watched a few videos. Taped the back of the already completed and finished table. Turned it over and re-sanded the top. Poured in the Epoxy and hoped for the best, It ran out onto the driveway, down the legs and so forth. So I let all of that dry. Re-taped the back better a few days later. It turned out pretty good but still had a place or two that the epoxy sunk or a big bubble was. So I sanded it down some and poured another batch. Now it is Saturday the next weekend. Top is sanded, legs re-sanded and everything finished off again, Table is in her office and she wants to wait a few days to let it cure before she starts using it. She says she loves it and that is what matters. In the mean time I have a mantle still needing a back board and the Grand son is over and we are making an organizer for his Games. I love life in the shop.
My wife and I recently became Grandparents. It's a pretty sweet gig I gotta tell ya'! He will be walking before we know it and then from there I'm sure he will want to be part of all the action helping Grandma and Aunts and Uncle in the kitchen. Thus, a barstool with built in steps. A nifty way for him to come up to counter height. And, oh yeah, it will be quite handy for the grown ups to reach those high shelves. Made from maple that was milled from rough 5/4 stock. All components are 1” thick. The seat is 8”x16” and the stools are 26” high. Loose tenons on all the joints including the through tenons. Color is 2 applications of General Finishes Medium Brown Dye. Top coat is three layers of semi-gloss Arm R Seal.
Old desk was too cramped, not enough drawer space. Started with a pile of Ash 1×6s. Raised panels via a hand plane, set into frames. Two frames made the drawer unit, a third frame made the leg unit..buils a pair of webframes to hold the 2 drawers in the knee well…Recycled some old handle for the main and knee well drawers. Door covers a set of cubby hole shelves… Top shelf of the hutch has a Live Edge.. Finish is Puritan Pine Stain ( with a dash of dark walnut stain mixed in) then a few coats of Amber Shellac….About 6 weeks or so to build.
This is my second attempt at carving. They were carved from a tree branch found down. Not sure of the species, but it was very aromatic when carved. Intended to hold a pillar candle but can also accommodate a tea light candle in the base. Thank you for looking.
This is the creature I really wanted to build. The first one was just practice. But that's okay. The wife person wants it. :)Red oak and walnut with a little Lichtenberg-ing thrown in for good measure.Alternate title – SERIOUS two-fisted drinker!
I finally completed my first big furniture project. My daughter wanted me to make her some shelves for her room when she moved into it, and I did. The design was largely custom to what she wanted. It's all pine (her request) from Home Depot. It has shelves for books and other stuff, and a bin at the bottom for plush toys. Thanks to grimejr for the idea for the bin .It took me 10 months to build these thanks to two main factors. First, I got busy with other stuff. Secondly, I was learning a lot of new things along the way, which meant I'd often have to spend time trying stuff out on test pieces, building jigs, purchasing new tools and learning to use them, etc. I also ended up using lots of different techniques along the way as I learned how not to do things.I made the shelf panels first. They are glue-ups of 1×4's from Home Depot. I had no jointer or planer, so I made a jig to joint their edges on the table saw. This made the glue joints nice and tight, but of course did not help at all with the faces. So, I used a belt sander to flatten them out. This, of course, did not work well, but I got them somewhat flat after a huge amount of work. After a couple shelves this way, I broke down and bought a jointer and a planer. The other shelves went much better, though there was still a lot of sanding to remove all the glue residue.After struggling to make shelf panels, I decided to use plywood for the other large surfaces. I cut edge banding from 1×4's and glued it on. I did end up doing another glue up for the angled pieces on the side of the bin, but that was only 12 wide so I could put it through my planer to flatten it out.The trim around the sides was actually made from 2×6's. I trimmed off the rounded edges, jointed and planed them, then cut them into 1.5 x 1.5 pieces. I cut a 3/4 x 3/4 notch out of them, mitered the ends, and put them over the edges of the plywood on the sides. It was a very cheap way to make the trim, and actually looks pretty decent.I used strap hinges to attach the bin door, pocket screws to attach the bin door sides, and brads in a couple of hidden locations, but otherwise everything is just glued together.I sealed it with Zinsser SealCoat, then finished with General Finishes High Performance. I applied both of these with a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun hooked up to my little compressor. I build myself a large cardboard backdrop with 2×4 frame to avoid getting overspray all over my garage. It was my first time spraying finish, and I loved it. It went on very easily and quickly.I made one extra addition after the shelves were put in place. Once she stuffed all her stuffed animals in the bottom bin, the bin would always fall open. So, I made a little latch out of scrap, finished it the same as the shelves, and attached it with a brass screw. So, now she can latch it closed.
I found this chunk of mesquite laying around at the sawmill and snagged it from my buddy. He said it had been there for quite a few years. It was hard as a rock! This is the second largest bowl I have ever carved. It's about 17 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 10 inches tall. Once again, who would have thought that such beauty was inside an old gray stump.This one was a little difficult to figure out where I was going with it at first. I listened to it for quite some time, and it didn't say a dang thing, so I just tore into it. Turned out pretty cool I think.