Made this piano bench for my daughter who started taking lessons. The top and legs are made from reclaimed black locust from a bridge in Brooklyn. Tried something a little different to attach the legs. Used sliding dovetails instead of m&t.
A friend had asked me to make a box for an old bible she had. This did go on for some time until I said bring it over and I will have a look and take some measurements. Me thinking this would be a small task that would not take long. The small task idea faded very quickly when she brought it over. It measures 340mmX290mmX140mm (13.4”X11.4”X5.5”). It's very heavy and in poor condition externally but a treasure seeing it's an 1878 edition. ;I couldn't justify a plywood case for such an item. I ended up with a board 2.4mX200mmX25mm (7'10”X7.9”X1”) of Malaysian mahogany (Melurak) from Trend Timbers. This is a hardwood but nice to work with. I Boxed the joints.
and the lid was in two parts, joined using biscuits. I dado'd a cross into the lid & and cut cedar strips to fit the slots. The centre ended up a problem because the glue grabbed the strips before they could fit in the perfect mitres I had cut. Anyway the circle was added to cover the error. Lesson learned. Because the bible is heavy I did away with the idea of a hinged lid. I ended up making a fitted lid to lay the bible on (while the lid was upside down) & place the box over it, clamp the lid to the box and turn it upright.
Commission from a local small business for 6 keep-sake letter sized boxes in six different woods. Matching inlay banding on bevel topped shop-sawn veneer tops. Satisfying job, making one-of-a-king objects at an affordable price for the client. Cherry, birds-eye maple, walnut, curly soft maple, sapele, and spalted hard maple, with ebony inlay.
Two chairs came to me with the top half of the upper back slats broken off. As is normally the case, the broken pieces were thrown away. I didn't want to disassemble the chairs because it usually causes more damage. Instead I routed a a straight and flat surface to ensure a good glue joint for the replacement piece. I then band sawed the back half of the curved slat from 1-3/4 stock, scrolled out the details, band sawed the final half to complete the curved slat, glued the new piece in place and sanded everything flush.
My son is an officer in the Canadian Military (Major). He and his family recently left Ottawa for a posting to another CF base in Ontario.He and his wife requested that I carve a hanging sign to display their various postings and the dates associated with them.Carved in Hickory… base coat of shellac… painted letters… top coat of Arm-R-Seal (General Paint).It has already been shipped to their new home and will greet them as they move into their new home.Fun project.
I have much pleasure in presenting my first bowl. Its constructed from a variety of timbers and some synthetic materialI am not sure of the wood but its possibly alder snicker snickerI cannot tell you the construction method as its a closely guarded secret only the birds may know.I can say we are very pleased with it and it will have pride of place in our home .You know the saying “watch the dickie bird.Well I was going to take more pictures of the construction but I couldnt get the dickie bird in my camera to work
Boxes number 9 & 10 in my recent box build. These two are my first handcut finger joint boxes. They are both made of cedar and thin plywood. Both were finished with Minwax Fruitwood stain, the lighter one was followed with clear shellac and the darker one had a wipe on finish (provincial stain, mineral spirits and poly) then coated with amber shellac. I put Johnson Paste Wax on both. I wanted to be able to tell them apart at a glance when reaching for chisels.The lighter one has my new narex chisel set in it and the darker one has my old, no-name beater chisels in it. They are my favorite because I changed the bevels on them down to almost 15 degrees with a 17 – 20 degree secondary bevel. I use them ALL the time and even though they are ugly, they are sharp.I was so happy to be finished and take the pics of these today. First time I've used hardware in a handmade box… I had to laugh out loud because I think I put the hasps/buckles on upside down!!!The cedar inserts were fun to make. I had to think about it for a while. I left them unfinished in hopes that the cedar will draw moisture from the box and help with rust prevention. I also used CRC 3-36 on the chisels followed with JPW and I'm trying out some Zerust plastitabs that offgas a rust inhibitor.Glad these will never leave my shop.Thanks for looking jon
Shou Sugi Ban (burnt wood) using pine tongue and groove carsiding 6” X 8 ft. 1. burning surface with a weed torch, 2. scraping off char with a steel brush (in this case, a surface restorer) 3. stained, sealed —Minwax water based stain- Early American maple, and water based polyurethane—dries fast 4. put up on the ceilingCovers up an ugly 1970's popcorn finish drywall ceiling. Time: 3 months for a 16'X 12' roomFun, very dirty. Wear a mask!
I make natural wood toys for kids—some are just plain carvings, others are woodburned, and some, like this one, get the full treatment—carved, sanded and burned poplar, ready for a new home. I am making some last minute additions for a kids' expo this weekend.
Thanks to to Vineta, The Handyman's Daughter for the plans.Glue and dowels in lieu of pocket holes! Other than that same-same.My daughter's request for my Grandson's space theme bedroom.Nasa decal is a shout out to my birth city of Huntsville, the “Rocket City”
I made 2 more cam clamps out of quarter sawn white oak. I needed bigger ones so these open to 8” with and 8” throat. They were made with a one piece solid body with a groove in the end for the bar and then the end was plugged with a solid piece. That is what I made that tenon jig for! The bars are 1/4” x 1” aluminum.The cams have the pivot hole directly below the center of the radius so they clamp tight at 90 degrees.They are finished with Danish oil and then buffed and waxed.Cheers, Jim
Homemade version of the squatty potty with some improvements (well at least in my opinion). Wasn't going to post this, but my previous toilet project (Toilet Tank Lid) got so many views I thought I'd see how interested you potty mouthed woodworkers are in this one. :) Pretty simple build, 3/4” MDF with biscuit joints and Titebond3. All edges have a 1/8” roundover.Design Objectives: - I didn't like the plastic of the commercial product, wanted something that looked a little nicer - Wanted it a little wider - Able to fit under the bowl when not in use without impacting normal leg position - Very stable and solid, so it could be used as a stepstool to reach things on high shelves in the bathroom and closet - Generally wanted a nicer look with some gentle curves and a really nice finishMocked up a template first to fit it snug around the bowl shape. Then cut the top to the template and drew up sides that looked right with the top shape. The cross beam is straight except a slight curve along the bottom edge just for style.
The GYM I attend (Farrell's Extreme Bodyshaping) we wear a device, around our chests, that tracks the level of exertion during each out workout session. The device also broadcasts real time feed to a monitor in the classroom the wearer and others know the level of exertion they are working at. This device, MyZone, keeps track of our workouts by the day, by month and by year(s). In order to have a successful month we must achieve a minimum amount of exertion points. As these points accumulate we achieve higher and higher levels of status within MyZone. The top status is “Hall of Fame” which requires 48 months of dedicated workout/exertion points. This wall plaque is to honor those that have achieved this level. As an individual reaches HoF level they fill out a card and attach to the chain hanging below. I hope to see many many cards in the near future. The plaque has a little bit of metal (aluminum) work that I am completely a novice at.
Getting ready for a spoon carving class at Lee Valley Tools in November. Challenge for the class will be to carve three spoons and a container.. I have the joy of using any kind of wood and any kind of shape. Should be a fun day of carving. This wood was given to me by my neighbour who was cleaning up some of his tree growth and expansion. The wood was too small for a boot carving plus it had twisted and split on me while being seasoned. Finished with a spray on varnish.Hope Goldilocks likes the set.Enjoy. Comments welcome.
Last week a friend called me up as he needed some help to load a hospital bed left at a seniors Lodge. If had been left by a renter, apparently one of the motors didn't work, he is 89 and one leg is several inches shorter from a falling accident in the logging industry. I help him whenever I can. He asked me if I wanted it, I said I have enough projects on the go. But the next morning I was laying in bed thinking of what to do, the thought came to me I could make a table that raises and lowers for a fellow that is a paraplegic, He runs a repair business, chainsaws to atv's etc. The table he has is about worn out. I called my friend up and he still had it in his truck so he brought it out.Since I had pulled a muscle in my back trying to roll a 20 foot log on the sawmill for a wood shed I am building, I thought this could be lighter work and good therapy. First job was to strip it down, remove the springs, two of the motors and some metal pieces so I could make two drawers to fit under the table top. I will mention one of these units are an excellent way to make a wood topped table for your shop.Next step was to weld angle iron for the drawers to slide on, they where salvaged from and old bed frame, bed to bed metal. I had previously welded a short piece of metal from the frame to the ends of the bed frame, I didn't need it to tip anymore.The next step was to make wooden drawers and shelves for the ends. I put a sheet of steel on for a table top as he works with oily motors. I plugged it in to see how well it worked, it didn't work well at all, it jammed up and stalled out. The way the linkage to raise and lower changes and jammed on my drawer slides, Back to drawing board, I could see the problem. had to cut the drawer slides off and raise them 2 inches, and of course cut two inches off the top of the drawers. I tested it out this time before I put that heavy piece of steel table top on, It was salvaged from a delivery truck bed.The drawersw where simply made, thick sides, 1/2 plywood bottom, glues to the bottom of the sides and then a strip of metal with screws, the drawer is sliding metal on metal and well greased with Vasaline, smooth action. The drawers are long and can be pulled out from either side. I like the drawer pules I made, copper pipe, sanded on lathe, wood ends with one screw threw the end and pipe also.One support for the top in the center and a also a piece of wood above each drawer so you can pull it out along way without it dropping downA simple box shelf was made and screwed to the head and foot board, in this picture you can see the drawer support wood.Steel top bolted on, Loaded and ready to surprise Mike, Hospital beds have great casters so I was able to load it myself.This will replace this table.He works hard, repairing most anything, he was a student of mine 30 40 years ago, hurt in the logging industry shortly after graduation.This was a fun easy project being as large as it is, I am sure it was much appreciated. It may not be all wood but I think it is a great idea for a work table for a wood shop. I would raise the top above the bed level and fill that area in with deeper drawers. More storage and the top of the table can be raised to a standing work height. I will be looking for one to replace the one I have in my shop. They are available, was talking to a doctor and he said they are always replacing them with better ones. One can just ask what they do with the old ones.Thanks for looking, comments appreciated.
I have been cutting some long pieces on my bandsaw and I got tired of trying to balance them on the little stock table, so I added an outfeed table. Just some scraps from around the shop and I put some plastic laminate on it. It bolts to the table on one side and has an adjustable leg on the other side so I can level it. Thanks for looking.
Made a couple of smaller bread board size cutting boards for my wife's clients as gifts. They are about 8.5” x 15” and 1-1/8” thick. Maple, Walnut, and Cherry. She'll add a bread knife and gift card for “bread” to complete the set.Also I created the top to be quarter-sawn material, with flat sawn sides. In my opinion the only way to make “edge grain” cutting boards larger than 5” wide, 9” long, and 5/8” thick. It reduces the problems of expansion/contraction and glue joint failure.I'm in between a larger project that has stalled because of scope changes, so I took some time to do these in about 5 hours including wood selection, cutting (bandsaw/tablesaw), glue-up, planing, sanding and router. Sanded to 220 grit (lifted grain before final sanding) and then used a 000 scotch pad to final rub the finish. Butcher block mineral oil and bees wax finish, and silicone feet I sourced from “cuttingboardfeet.com”. These are the best cutting board feet I have found since they don't break down like rubber with oils over time. I suppose this could be used for cheese too.My first cutting board (walnut/maple) was in high school 42+ years ago and my sister is still using it nearly daily.
Here are a couple pictures of a presentation box for a retiring Firefighter. The whiskey comes from a local distillery. The box is my first attempt at finger joints. The wood came from salvaged pallets, I believe it's oak. It has a sliding top and the packing is shaved from a scrap of cedar fence picket. The box is finished in Minwax Red Oak stain, the lid and bottom being a different species (salvaged 1/4” ply) is Minwax English Chestnut. Then everything got three coats of Wipe On gloss Poly. I used a Finger joint jig from the Youtube “Make Something” channel to cut the joints. I found that the back side of each joint suffered some tearout, so I pre scored the wood with an xacto knife which seemed to help a little. I'm wondering if I had a better dado stack if I'd get a cleaner cut. The other major challenge was the wood started cupping slightly between the joinery and assembly phases of the project. This led to open joints and creative clamping strategies. Overall I'm happy with the results but I'll take a retry at the jig to come up with a better version in the future.
My most recent completed handcut dovetail box. It is larger than the others and it is custom built to hold my Stanley 45 combination plane and cutters. It is poplar with a pine sliding lid and pine handles. I used a large chisel to chamfer the lid and give it a “pillowed” look/feel. There is a shallow semicircle dished out area near the center of the sliding lid for pulling and pushing the lid. I blended minwax poly, mineral spirits and minwax provencial stain in equal amounts to make a wipe on finish. Then I applied Johnson's Paste Wax. It is big and sturdy and so much better than the tattered cardbox box I kept the plane in before I built this.This last picture shows my bench with the newly built moxon and the shooting boards I have made. I like the height of this configuration but it can all be changed very quickly depending on the type of work I am doing. For making small boxes and projects though this is great and everything is right at hand and at the right height. Thanks for looking…. Jon
Here is number four in my handcut dovetail box series. It is poplar, which I actually am finding really easy to work with, with oak beads cut with my Stanley 45, and cedar for the bottom and the lid. And an oak “pull” on top along with a pine friction fit piece for the inside of the lid. I really like the poplar and it had some striations/variegations in color in the boards… from a dark green to light, almost white tone. I actually liked the coloration. I just finished it with poly and then Johnson's Paste Wax and I am very surprised at how the tones in the wood changed from green to more browns and earth tones. I still like it. Poplar is very “clear” and straight grain and very easy to work with and I will continue to use it while I start making boxes for planes and chisels.I feel like the dovetails are leaps and bounds better than the first couple of boxes I made a few weeks ago. I think the wood, learning to sharpen my chisels, getting used to the process and experience is making them better. thanks for looking. Jon
Box number five in my learning process of handcut dovetails. It is poplar with a pine lid and pine bottom. There is an oak bezel/bevel that frames the lid and there is a “mystery wood” dovetail shaped pull from my scrap bin. Now that I look at it, that bezel on the lid may be maple. There is also a piece of cedar that provides the friction fit on the lid.I extended the depth of the dovetails about 1/4 inch on this box. I then went back and chamfered the “knuckles” on the joints. The bezel on the lid has the same chamfered bevel. I like elements in the boxes to rhyme.I really like the striations in the color on the poplar. It was mainly dark and light greens fading to a cream white color. The finish, minwax poly and a Johnson's Wax Paste seems to have changed the colors to more earth tones. I've heard poplar called “trash wood” but I like it and it is very easy to work with so I will make more boxes with it.I'm working on boxes for my planes and chisels next so I will keep posting them as I finish them. thanks for looking, Jon
Just another version of my tissue box with a secret compartment. This box is made with Cherry, has a slide out drawer and a walnut box insert to hold the tissues. The drawer is only 3/4” deep and only good to hide a few small items or a stack of cash! There are two magnets to hold the drawer in place. The finish is Lacquer. Hope you like it! View on YouTube
I just finished another high track dozer. The tracks are Mahogany and the main body is Kauri, the cab and other dark timber is Walnut. The model has been coated in tung oil. This is a T & J model but I made the tracks a little different, the gripper is approx 1/16” wide mounted vertically and housed into the track link. I also added 4×3/32 dowels to each link as bolts. Making the tracks this way is very time consuming but in my opinion it is well worth the extra effort.
This is a jig I made tonight to be able to safely and accurately slot the ends of some long vertical pieces. I had no other way to hold them safely. This could be a tenon jig too. I was given a big cast iron tenon jig but it did not fit my tablesaw so I gave it back. This was made along those lines only I used maple plywood for the bulk to clamp to.It is made from 1/2” and 5/8” maple plywood and doweled and screwed and glued together. It is 4” wide x 8” long and 6” high with a vertical rail to insure the piece is held square. I left a 1/4” lip on the bottom for the piece to sit on so the edge is never dragged across the top of the saw. It rides totally on the jig like a sled!The only finish on it is wax on the bottom and side. It worked good to put the 1/4” slots in the pieces of the next project. It held the parts real well and I felt comfortable using it that way.Cheers, Jim
These are the cabinets along the south wall I made. Silverware drawer, measuring cups/towels/hot pad holders. and a pull out drawer with utensils upright. Love the utensils not all jumbled in a drawer together. Pull out drawers for lids and dishes, and a final slim cabinet with sheets/pans, etc.
A while back I was hired by a couple to design and help build this spiral stair case. It turned out great. I only have one picture of it to share that was taken during the process of building it. They loved it and it turned out well. It was kept simple because no one had much money. But she cooked well and they were a great couple. The curved wood was cut into thin strips bundled up and thrown into the Kalamazoo River for a week to soften it up. Many strips were cut and several did not survive the bending. But we planned for that and it went well. Never needed more clamps than I did on this job.
You could also call this my first attempt at making solid wood bowls. Its possibly not of a sale able standard standard but its my best effort. The timber is an Australian hardwood of the Eucalyptus Species possibly from its features Yellow Stringy Bark. I used a variety of methods in its construction some not quite the right way to do it but managed to produce an acceptable resultThe construction was not without problems many of which I detailed in the Construction blog by the same name I made my own template and profiled the edges of the material before making the actual bowl this is a bit incorrect as it removes any fixing areas.The template. To make my own template I used LBD's wheel sanding jig and it allowed me to make the very accurate template you see. I hindsiight your are possibly better off buying an off the shelf one and matching the timber to it.In the production of the bowl I managed to total two router bits, mainly due to incorrect process.Finishing the bowl this takes quite a lot of effort to obtain the finished result you see.It was a real learning experience for me and I was reasonable happy with the result Summed up in a few words.From the raw materials, thicknessing Routing profiling and then sanding from 180 to 320 grit finishing with Gill's Carnauba wax polish.Whats the cut in the side? Its a chain saw mark from when Grant cut the timber, its left for a talking point when its deliveredIf you dont know already it produces a massive amount of waste.Also its not recommended to use it in the garden See Mark Wilsons comment in the blog.
We use the dinette area in our RV as a bed at night, and my kid grew tired of having to pull it all apart to set it up…. so I replaced the “standard” rv table that was there with this dropleaf/gaslift version. Now we can raise/lower the table without having to remove any cushions at all… and it makes things A LOT easier.Some lessons to pass along:—Always eager to try “new” wood, I made this out of thermally modified Ash. Huge mistake. The wood is so dry and brittle that if you look at it sideways it will split. I ended up reinforcing the whole underside of the table with plywood—and I suspect I will need to replace the tabletop in a year or two regardless.—I got an HVLP sprayer years ago and for some reason was too intimidated to use it. Since I was already down the road to ruin with my wood selection, I figured damn the torpedoes and figured I'd spray this piece. I was stunned at how easy the process was—and what a great finish I got. Silly me for avoiding it for so long.I sprayed this with General Finishes High Performance, dumped straight (no dilution) into my Earlex 5000, 1.5 tip. Easy peasy!
Visited my son in the rural farmland / jungles of Panama – he is in the Peace Corps. Found a small piece of wood just outside his hut. Took it home and made a little jar from as my souvenir from the trip. I don't know the species, but I suspect either Panamanian teak or rubber tree. The chunk of wood in the last two photos was used to make the lid. Finished with Arm-R-Seal.
Finally wrapped up the walnut cabinets to go with the custom conference table build I posted a while back. Started with rough sawn walnut. Not perfect but overall I'm pleased with the results.Conference table: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/408672Thank for looking please let me know what you think!!
While going through my library of books I stumbled on a book on workshop furniture/jigs/tables. I have a 1990's Craftsman contractors table-saw. It is a great saw, heavy cast iron table and wings and it cuts dead straight. The original stampes steel legs were tired and wobbly needing replacement. The book I found had the plans for this table, so I went for it. I used scraps of wood I had laying around to build. In a couple of cases I side glued to boards in order to get the width I needed. Thus the name Ugly Table-saw table, nothing fancy not even a paint job. But it is solid!!
Had a good-sized dogwood fall down at the in-laws house two weeks ago. As the responsibility fell to me, I figured that I might take a bit and see if I could learn a thing or two about harvesting some green bowl blanks. I didn't realize how much character it would have. I milled up several bowl blanks for drying and decided the scraps were just too interesting to chuck in the trash. By making small 1×1 sticks, it dried very quickly and I was able to glue up a round form. Everything but the oak disk on the bottom came from the same tree. Epoxy coated on the inside and Howard's Bee's wax finish on the outside.
A day ago my wife received a call from A Native lady living a short distance away. She had heard I had a lathe and maybe could make one. She didn't know what a lathe was and all the measurement she gave my wife I didn't know what she wanted. I made arrangements t meet her there and find out what she wanted. She was taking a had making class there and needed a mold to weave the cedar bark on to. This is the one they had there , now it makes sense and went home with a picture.That was yesterday morning, went home and laminated a bunch of boards up.Ended up being quite a large piece of wood, my scrape iron lathe was up to the job. It wasn't long before I had a similar shaped mold.I Then texted the lady that she could come and see if it was satisfactory, She was so excited to see it and how it was made. The smile, was ^payment enough. Nice to do things that people appreciate and brings them happinessThis one she brought to show me the end result, it was made by the instructor Isn't it BeautifulHope you found this interesting, not an everyday project. It was a learning experience for me too. Comments appreciated.
Bookcase cabinet made from solid walnut with white pine secondary. The bottom of the cabinet is joined with wedged through tenons that fall in a dado. The top of the bookcase and the carcass are dovetailed. Finished with garnet shellac and wax.
The basket itself is a Steve Good design. I decided it needed a top, and per a request, I made it with the inlay.I stack cut the leaves from the Hickory top and the Purple Heart bottom and inlayed the Hickory into the Purple Heart and vice versa with the Purple Heart into the Hickory. The center part of the basket is cut from Baltic Birch. All of it was cut with my scroll saw.
This sadly is not a new project so it may get deleted but I couldnt find a TAB for posting Old Projects. I see LBD's gauge is still there so I though I might give it a go too.Background:- No 4 son was living in Sydney in 2011 and asked me for a small TV table to elevate his TV so he could remove the stack of books he was using.Construction:-He wanted a rustic design and nothing too fancy, and needed to be flat packed via the post.So this is the design and finish we agreed on and constructed. I then marked it up with construction details and sent it off.Packaged it off and mailed it off, upon receipt he assembled it and put it to use as per image No 1..So whats the G.K.C reference all about ? if your curious enough go to.
Whenever my niece or nephew have a baby, I make the child a toy box. Niece just had a baby boy – so I made him this toy box. 5 great nieces and nephews so far.African mahogany, shellac and Arm R Seal. Rockler torsion hinges.
My nephews outgrew their previous beds and crib, so I built a pair of beds with storage and a trundle bed under one. I used Douglas fir posts and end rails and select 2×6's for the rails and ends. V groove pine whiteboards made up the end boards for looks and privacy. Poplar made up the bed slats and 1/4 plywood layer on for extra support. Select pine was the wood of choice for the safety rails and sides of the trundle bed. Most of the connection joints are hand made mortise and tenon, and secured with 120 mm bed bolts. I gave every piece 6 coats of shellac and 4 coats of water based furniture polyurethane for protection, and allergy safety. I used mortise and tenons instead of the usual metal brackets for strength and safety. The trundle was an after thought and was well appreciated. It was a fun project to make and put my stamp on.
this was the largest shadow box that I have built. It stood about 4 1/2 feet tall. Retiring Marine's Enlisted and Officer Blues jackets mounted inside along with laser engraved unit emblems. Pine for the box frame with Black walnut top and corner accents.
Boys and Girls,One of the first jigs I made since my woodworking revival about a decade ago and I have used it for various measurements and continually finding new uses each day.10c (Cent) Set-Up Gauge you ask!. Hell, it cost a lot more than that, however, it uses an Aussie 10c piece in the locking mechanism, hence the name (DOH!).This gauge is one of the permanent items on top of my workbench (actually mini workbench).
The others are a fine tuned scraper, upside down glue bottle (permanently topped up with glue), low angle block plane, sharp pencil, small steel rule and a tape measure… all the rest are eye candy.I thought I'd write an article on it as it may soon become obsolete with all the new fangle-dangled gizmos inundating the market today and I happen to misplace my hand written instructions on how to use it. For example this Woodpecker Paolini Pocket Rule, that retails for around $35 and my little gem of a jig will only cost you $49.99, plus the 10c piece, without figuring in labour costs… but the redeeming feature is… no tax.I got the idea out of one of the Australian Woodsmit Magazine published sometime between 2007-2008… I vaguely remember that date as I have the magazine, Issue 55, open on my desk at page 9 just yanking your chain,
incredible that after 10 years it still reads the same and the picture hasn't changed….I consciously deviated from the published design so I can't be accused of plagiarism.I couldn't even spell SketchUp back then let alone know how to use it (whether it actually existed or on the to be invented list), so it was manufactured using the infallible method of trial and error (that's cubed) in the workshop.To outrig this vessel, you will require a 300-310mm length of 25×25mm aluminium angle, a ” brass insert nut, bolt with a knurled brass knob, a small metal ruler (must at least have metric divisions), 5 screws, a small block of wood and some superglue.Now to expand a tad on the above cut list. You require 310mm length of angled aluminium (allowing for 3 kerfs of your aluminium cutter). You should buy 1m of angle as you will undoubtedly stuff it up a few times and drill holes that, unless you close your eyes, would be totally unacceptable. I recommend 5 screws you only need 4, but it is a lay-down-misere (all you 500's card players will know what I mean) that you will drop one and won't be able to find it. Here is a picture of the ”cut list” for those that are hard of hearing and hate reading as much as I do. that require the following minor alteration,
Stretch the angled aluminium as it was only 290mm long.
Whittle down the large scrap wood to a more palatable size.
Spend the $1 coin on a 90c item to get 10c change.
Use Photoshop to reduce the 300mm ruler to 150mm.
While you only need a few drops of CA, my stock is 10 years old with expired shelf life so find some that works.
Recharge the battery in my calculator so I can extract exactly 5 screws out of the jar.
Find a metallurgist that can convert the steel knurled knob, bolt and nut into the required brass.
Simple!As I mentioned, I altered the design a bit so if you want to follow the original design you will only need 2 screws and of course a copy of the Magazine as the details that follows is MY DESIGN with 4 screws. I remember the original design also called for self-adhesive measuring tape. Well to pay $10 for the first 200mm of a 2m tape brought out the Shylock in me and I opted for a 150mm metal rule for $3. Now add to that the $8 it cost to buy the super glue to glue the metal ruler to the aluminium and you find that the $11 it cost didn't save you as much as you thought you would. However, you can now use mag-switches on the metal ruler Why?... because you can… and if you used brass screws, the metal rule would be the only component that a magnet will stick to on the jig!!!You will need to take the measurements of an Australian 10 cent piece
and find an appropriate sized forstner bit to recess it into the wooden block, Then all you have to do is go and search for a 10 cent piece that fits. Incredibly the first 10 cent piece I tried actually fit… lucky! Alternatively peruse the FBI's most wanted list and track down a reliable forger and mint one of your own and ensure that it fits the forstner hole.A groove of about 1mm deep (and a tad wider than the ruler) will need to be routed into the block to accommodate the smooth movement over the ruler. I recommend this after the scrap is trimmed to size.Now for the knurled knob. I did have to search a bit for a brass one that both suited and didn't take the cost over $100 A bolt with a wingnut on the end of a threaded rod will work just as well, but not as pretty, When procuring the knurled knob, please ensure it fits your threaded insert otherwise you'll have to super-glue it in place and the gauge will only be good for one length. I have added this disclaimer as you do not need to stick to but whatever is handy or readily available. Just strive for total integration.Recently, a friend visiting my workshop fell in love with the gauge and wanted to make one for himself. I took down the dimensions of my gauge and made up this quick and dirty SketchUp model. look at him getting all fancy with those coloursNaturally I haven't built from the SU model, however, my buddy did and he didn't complain as hes no longer speaking to me because of my shoddy drawing. just kidding.Of course this guage is not for everyone and is posted only for those people that want one… for all the rest, you are not obliged to take notes if you bother to read this far.PS. Please note that a nickel is too small and a quarter is too big for a 10c hole.PPS. Forgive the use of Phillips (UGH!!!) head screws, mea culpa, mea-culpa, mea maxima culpa! It was in my ignorant naive days b4 I discovered Robertson screws! Consequently, 10c pieces are for sale for discounted rate of $10 each (plus P&H) or visit your friendly exchange broker.
Long Version: As I found myself in need of a way to effectively store all of my scrap and unused lumber, I found myself in need of a Lumber Cart. Many of the designs I found all shared the common aspect of being able to hold a full 4'x8' sheet of plywood.The fact is that I never store sheets that size. If I have a full piece of lumber that size, it gets used up, and it is the off cuts that I need to store for a future project. So after doing some research on smaller options, I came across this concept:Lumber Cart by Wood Working for Mere Mortals I agreed with many of the facts he set out, especially with the limited space and never needing to store a full sheet of plywood.However, I did not like the angled piece nor the long shelves. Just personal choice. Additionally, I needed to store my assembly tables (Link coming as soon as that project is finished, my blog has build updates) somewhere.So what I came up with was this project.
It can store a 4'x4' sized sheet goods, up to a 4'x6' if you really want to.
It can store a significant amount of smaller cutoffs, up to 6' long, in two large side bays.
It can store a lot of smaller 3'-4' cutoffs in the central large bay.
It has a basic built in drawer for those really small cutoffs that are a pain to store.
And of course it stores both of my 2'x6' Paulk-Inspired Assembly Tables.
Hope yall enjoy this unique take on a Lumber Cart.
So I finally have an out feed table. Before I got my new saw, I built my workbench to serve as the out feed for my old saw. But the new saw is shorter so that no longer worked. Then I saw a project posted here that looked like the answer. I made mine 24”x36”.I bought some cheap 16” folding brackets off of Amazon. I wasn't expecting too much, but they had a “stated” weight load of something like 250lbs. I think they will hold up fine but I wouldn't put anywhere near that load on them. Cheap is cheap.I attached some scrap blocks to the saw cabinet with self tapping screws. Yeah, that stung a bit running screws into that shiny cabinet… The brackets were then laid out and attached to the blocks with 2” SPAX screws.The top is 3/4” birch plywood with some scrap sapele to cover the edges and stiffen the plywood a bit after knocking the corners off to save the hips. Cut some stop dados for miter slot extensions. I also cut out a notch in the front end to allow me to hook up my dust port with the table fully folded instead of having the table lay against it. Getting everything aligned and working correctly was the most time consuming part. I think this will work out fine. Almost forgot. Finished it with 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal.
Recently I was given my Great Uncle's 48 Star US Burial Flag (he was a WW1 veteran). The case and stand are made of red oak. I cut and placed glass in the front and back of the case to allow visibility straight through. As a veteran myself it is always humbling to be able to honor my fellow soldiers especially those in the family…Lest We Forget.
Hello everyone, I'm kinda new to this forum! I've had an account for a while, but I've never taken the time to post anything. So I'm going to change this. This Mini Cooper was my first model car I made. I also have a YouTube channel where I show the process of all my pieces of work.The video of the Mini Cooper: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_LTeUKUlTI&t=0s
5 more completed. A lot of Mahogany and Maple in these boards.In the first I glued the strips lengthwise this time and it wound up being 20.5” by 12”. It's my favourite of this group.The 2nd and 3rd are Chaotic and opposites, one mostly light and the other mostly dark.The 4th and 5th contain a variety of woods and Ash from my mothers old dining table. They will be staying in the family.
I always wished to Build a Project that Shows my set of skillsSo I did Build this credenza Challenging myself to build it with Hand cut Dovetails And Angled Tapered Legs Using Only Solid Sapele for the Whole case And to Paint the MDF Doors NC PaintI really Enjoyed the Process I hope you like it tooI did the best I could and am happy with the results.if you'd like to watch how I built it Check my Video from here remember to turn on English Captionshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJ6fecevd4k&t=17s
This project has been along time in the thinking stage, Lathe work was quite straight forward. I wanted to do a square bowl, have Pacific Northwest Coast Native Indian Art in the center, and a decoration around the outside resembling abalonie. The theory was simple. I had purchase a book last year as an aid, the art work is basically two form, Ovoids and U shapes, and parts there of. by combining these shapes one can come up with interesting art work. The area where I live is predominately Native as was the school where I taught. I wanted to do an eagle, want and do is to different things. Try, change and start over. What I did is in not way professional, but I was pleased with my attempt. The BookThe wood, YELLOW CEDAR, 13 inch square from this slab.Bottom shaped first and then attached to the chuck, this large piece of wood with the four corners created alot of wind. One had to be real cautious to stay clear of itShaped the front and outlined the ring where color was to go.Mask it off and paint BlackApply color. When I was videotaping this project I had the function switch in the wrong position, and missed this step. this is what I wanted to demonstrate the most. Since then a lathed another one and a video will be included in the next project.Design some sort of art work for the center, this is what I did. May not be perfect but this project may be displayed on my wall for my enjoyment.My next project will be of the thunderbird, simuliar shape to the one on the cover of the book, I think that one my be a raven.Thanks for looking, comments are appreciated on this one, good or bad.Come and visit the Ksan Village in Old Hazelton, view, buy art and attend the cultural center. Traditional dances etc.
Finished my Drill Press Cabinet to go with my recently completed Drill Press Table. It provides more than enough storage space for all my bits and accessories. I painted it Powermatic Yellow to match my Lathe Tools / Accessories Cabinet I built awhile ago. Figured I might as well have color coordinated storage cabinets.The cabinet is based on the WoodSmith “3-In-1 Drill Press Upgrade” plan I downloaded from the WoodSmith Online Library. I wanted to use my existing Drill Press mobile stand so I custom built the base. I also made the 3/8” treys routed into the top larger and in the front as opposed to on the sides in the back. I added dividers in the two top drawers to organize small accessories and drills.The overall size of the cabinet is larger than the plans: width is 31”, depth is 29”, height is approximately the same. The shelves on each side in the back are built for specific accessories. That is the one thing I would change if I built another. I would have made the shelves adjustable. Overall a good plan worth getting if you need a Drill Press storage cabinet.Wayne
Not too exciting. I make these every year. This is my inventory for our first show in August. I usually make the high side of a couple dozen using strictly scraps and cutoffs and manage to sell out or just about sell out every time. Great use of smalls as you can see from some of the designs. I also mix up the grains. I have them going lengthwise, tall and end grain. Anything to use them up. I just got them waxed up today and installed the hardware, so before I packed them away I wanted to share. The design calls for 5.75×7 minimum size. I usually make mine a minimum of 6×8. Regardless of the size or thickness they are all one price. Hardware is from cheeseslicing.com.
I joined a 'Hackerspace' last October. https://tampahackerspace.com/ They have a great wood shop, but didn't have a router table. When I asked about it, they said they were just waiting for someone to volunteer to build one. So, their money (about $600), their shop, my time. I started in January and worked about two hours every Friday. I used a set of plans from crestonwood.com (Note: when I just tried to access the site my blocker said it had a trojan, so use caution.) The plans start out well enough, but toward the end there are a lot of errors. I still need to build the small drawers that go on each side, but it is fully operational.
Made another scrapwood end grain end table with a large piece of steel in the front that is powder coated green. The legs are tapered, I have 2 coffee epoxy butterflies as inlays in the top and the whole base is on a 7 degree tilt.
Made with recycled 2×6 teak decking boards tongue and grove tiger wood flooring found in dumpster these things are heavy duty and weight about 40lbs each very stable thru they play a little faster than normal boards great boards to look and play on.
This box is 10 high and 13 long and 8 deep. I attempted to resaw the top canary wood for book match as the grain was great. I built the surround with walnut and bocote which was 3/4.The small top area removable tray has a bottom magnet which allows for the top panel to be removed for access.There are 16 zebra wood splines to add some support and break up the walnut for appearance.Thanks for looking(Yes Blackie inspired but mine is far from his level of perfection)
Recently my wife had asked for a new bedside table. I took this as an opportunity to try a few things that I have not done before (tapered legs and dovetail joints on the drawer). The bedside table itself is made from Cherry and the tapered legs came out very well. While the dovetails weren't perfect they are tight and a good first attempt.
On a quest to figure out something that I could make easily for the customers at the vintage markets that we sell at, I thought about picture frames while I was rebuilding my fence. This is the combination of those two thoughts. With an abundance of old fence pickets, I'll be able to make these for quite a while.This is definitely not fine furniture, but sometimes people aren't looking for fine furniture.And I still haven't figured out why my pictures keep showing up sideways.You can watch the making video here: https://youtu.be/aoKMhPVTKZQ
This is a 48” Red Cedar Garden Bench completed today.I liked the gentle curvature and light construction in this design, originally from FWW, July 2009 (if I recall accurately). The construction was relatively simple mortise and tenon joinery. The plan called for lots of jigs and router work. I just went the simple way and blew off the jigs and used mortise chisel and hand saws for the most part. Working with the curved parts was a little tricky, nothing too complex though.The plans were a little rough, and I modified some portions. One mistake for sure was there was no location for the mortise on the underside of the arms. I did install the arms last, but I centered the mortise and it should have been offset. I do pay attention to details, but not sure how I missed this one. I pointed it out to my neighbor and his reply was classic, “only a son of a b**” would notice that. Got a good laugh from me.I used clear Western Red Cedar as it is impervious to insects and should weather well. Again, for me, lumber selection was an issue, the materials at my local lumber supplier were very limited, so I have two distinctly different colors, that mostly shows up in the seat (where I tried to blend them).I wasn't sure about the finish, so for today I've just sealed it and we will let it weather to see how it does.This is will be more of a decorative piece residing on our front porch. I don't expect it will get much use, but for now I can cross one more off the Honey-Do list.thanks for looking
This is my great granddaughter's birthday present. She'll be 1 year old in about 2 months. I made the box out of pine with biscuits in all the seams. The corners are all lock mitered. This is the first time I ever did that long of a lock miter joint. I had to use many feather boards to hold the joint in a straight line because these wide boards had just little warp after sending them through the 60” sander at the place LJ Doug Scott used to work.. ( Thanks Doug).The bottom is in a dado all the way around and it has threaded inserts for the four casters on the corners. Randy Smith, the retired shop teacher at the high school , made the board with the lettering on his CNC router and I copied it to the two boards with my duplicator.The box is 18” x 36” and 19” high. It is stained with a Zar chestnut stain and the inside is finished with semi gloss lacquer and the outside is finished with wiped on semi gloss poly.Cheers, Jim
Wow its been 8 years…My daughter still wanted to do pens for her teachers this year as she has each year since Kindergarten. We procrastinated a bit but she tackled them starting on Saturday and finished the last of the 17 tonight before bed. She will be writing out the cards that go with each of them tomorrow night before handing them out. She has done so well on them, got a bit tired before the last 2 or 3 were done and I helped out with some final assembly. She however did almost all of the turning herself and some with me just in the house working on other things. She has become confident in the process and the shop, perhaps next year we will work on her preparing some of the blanks.What you see here are: Slimline pens Atlas Pens Anaheime Pen Wall Street II Sketch pencil Seam Ripper in all kinds of various woods that I had on hand.CtL One proud Dad! :)
Finely took the Vet off the shelf and tried to finish it up. Could still use a wind shield but need to play around with that a little down the road can't make up my mind if it needs a plastic one or wood? I started out with Gatto plans but got way away from them right at the start. Here's the blog.
If it helps you see it's good, pretend it's walnut. And sanded, and routed, and finished w BLO or paste wax. It's a lot to ask I know, but this is how to cut useful wedges for all sorts of installs. Taught to me by a cabinet carpenter.You never move the fence. You flip the block until you are out of wood. Hope this helps someone. B/c before I had the answer I just made it work, and it sucked. This cuts a bucket full of wedges in a minute or two.
Shelf made possibly for cameras. The wood used is macadamia nut which I got from Hawaii and curly maple which I used aniline dye to really make the figure pronounced. Macadamia nut has the grain of lacewood and is really quite beautiful and unlike any other wood. The slab I got was a funky shape but while building my lounge chair I used the bending form to make the bottom part of the shelf and cut that to shape on the macadamia nut so it follows the curve while being bent. It looks really cool.
The stand is made from construction lumber. The sides are made from two 2×4 legs connected by 2×6 stretchers. The stretchers are attached with two 1/2×2 1/2 -in. dowels and glue at each joint. The front and back stretchers connect the sides together at the bottom. Two 1/4×4-in. hex bolts terminating into two cross dowels inserted into 15/16-in. holes in the stretchers make a secure connection for the stretchers at each corner. The eight cross dowels are made from 1 1/2-in. lengths of 3/4-in electrician's EMT. A 5/16 hole is drilled into one side of each and a 1/4-20 nut is used to secure the hex bolt to the cross dowel. The bottom panel is cut from a piece of 1/2-in. plywood and set in a 3/8-in. deep dado.The table top is constructed from two pieces of 3/4-in. plywood with two pieces of 1/2-in. MDF. The MDF pieces are separated at the center by 5/8-in. to construct a channel for a 5/8-11 threaded rod. A 5/8-in wide x 1/16-in. dado was cut in the plywood so the channel after assembly would be 5/8-in. square. I used MDF because it was in my scrap bin. 1/2-in. plywood would also work but the dado would need to be a little deeper. I used spray-on contact adhesive to stick the pieces together. To aid in alignment of the parts after the adhesive had been applied, I drilled a few 3/8-in. perpendicular holes through the parts and inserted 3/8-in. dowels. I considered assembly with the contact adhesive to be faster than using glue, weights and clamps.The corner hardware is made from 1/4 by 4-in. eye bolts. Carriage bolts 1/4×2 1/2-in. with lock nuts secure the eyebolts in 9/32-in. slots center of the top. 1/2 OD x 1/4 ID x 1/4-in. thick bushings fill up the space between the loop of the eyebolt and the 1/4-in. carriage bolts. The slots in the top were cut on my table saw using a jig that I made to cut the corner spline slot for picture frames. A 1/4-in. Forstner bit was used to “gouge out” room for the eye end of the bolts.The 9/32-in. slots in the top of the legs to receive the corner hardware were cut on the table saw using a dado blade. A 1/2×2 1/2-in. dowel pin was glued in a 1/2-in. hole between the slots and the top of each leg to prevent breakage.The 5/8-in. threaded rod is held in the top at each side by a flat washer, a lock washer and a 5/8-11 nut. Another flat washer acts as shim between the nut and the bearing block. The bearing block is made from glued-up pieces of Baltic birch plywood. I found two brass 1/2-in. NPT nipples in the plumbing department of the home center that would almost fit over the 5/8-in. threaded rod. After cutting the rod to length, a flat file was used to remove a few thousands of the thread so that the bearings would fit over the rod. The bearings were pressed into 3/4-in. holes in the bearing blocks and the blocks were mounted to the top stretchers using 1/4-in. hex bolts.The heavy steel brackets to support the casters are made by splitting with a metal-cutting bandsaw two brackets obtained from the deck and patio builder's section of a home store. The brackets attach to the legs with -in. carriage bolts. The castors attach to the brackets with two 5/16 hex head bolts and to the end grain of the legs with two hex head 5/16 lag screws.The table was sized to be just large enough for the planner. But if I were building it again, I would make the legs a little shorter because for me at 5'-8, the sander work surface seems a little high (47 -in.). I clamped on a stick to simulate a new position for the lower stretchers if the legs were shortened. My little test showed that I could reduce the distance between the top and the lower stretchers by up to 3 -in.Dimensions: Table top 27 x 25 x 2-in. Base: 30 x 25×31-in. (without casters) Bearing blocks: 5×2 x 1/1/2-in. wide Top of leg to upper stretcher: 2 -in. Bottom of leg to bottom of lower stretcher: 2 -in.Metal Parts Used (except as noted, all parts should be available in hardware store or home center): 1 ea. 5/8-11×36-in. threaded steel rod, 2 nuts, 2 lock washers, 4 flat washers 4 ea. 1/4×4-in. eye bolt with 1/2-in opening in eye 4 ea. 1 1/2-in. plastic knobs with 1/4-20 threaded insert, 4 flat washers to put under knobs 4 ea. 1/4×2 1/2-in. carriage bolts with lock nuts and flat washers 4 ea. 1/2 OD x 1/4 ID x 1/4-in. steel spacer (Mcmaster.com 92415A862) 4 ea. 1/4×3-in. lag bolts to mount bearing blocks 2 ea. brass nipple, 1/2-in. NPT, 1 1/2-in. 8 ea. 1/4×4-in. hex bolts with flat washers and nuts for lower stretchers 12-in. 3/4-in. dia. electricians EMT cut into 8, 1 1/2-in. lengths (normally comes in 10 -ft. lengths) 4 ea. castors, 2 3/4-in. wheels seem okFor caster mounting: 2 ea. Simpson Strong Tie deck and patio connector, ML267 8 1/4×2-in. carriage bolts with nuts 8 5/16×1-in. hex bolts with lock nuts 8 ea. 5/16×3-in. lag boltsBolts, nuts and washers to mount your tools.
Made this bar for a friends fiance who gave it as a surprise wedding gift. Everything is oak with provincial color stain. The structure under the overhang is pretty solid and didnt require any visible brackets or braces. This was my first big project and was definitely a learning experience.
I finished my cross cut sled yesterday. It started off based on plans from Stumpy Nubs, but I altered it with ideas I liked that other people did. It has removable tempered hardboard inserts in the deck and the fence. I made some errors along the way, but it makes good square cuts. Now to make some accessories for it.
A quick weekend project to get my clamps more organized. Nothing pretty, just some functional shop storage made from plywood cut-off's.The space where I store my clamps is a bit small and I had to fit everything between a door and my tool cabinet, allowing for the swing of the doors on both side. I was able to get most of my clamps onto this new rack, but I still have about 20 on another rack that just won't fit.
Just finished console table…live edge cottonwood top with sapelle base. All dowel joinery done with new Jessum dowel jig – which was great to use. Did use figure 8's to attach top slab to base. Never worked with Cottonwood before…very light weight and prone to fuzz. Used sanding sealer and was able to get a perfect surface to finish. Top was finished with several coats of lacquer. Top had a few knots that also needed epoxy. Base finished with danish oil. Too bad it's behind a couch as the sapelle grain really shines…pictures do not do it justice. Thanks for looking.
It's been a while since I posted a project so I thought it was overdue to share some project pictures of a few bowls I have finished.The cherry bowl has been finished for a couple years and is starting to darken beautifully as cherry does.Two of the bowls are spalted curly maple and just recently finished.All three were finished with Tried and True Danish oil then buffed with the beall buffing wheels.