The Woodshop Shed

adventures in woodworking and home maintenance, from my shop in an oversized backyard shed

June 2019
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Ornate Trigris

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


Ornate Trigris Been working on this for a while. Pattern is by Charles Hand. It is on red felt right now but when I frame it I will have a red silk background. Cut in 1/4” Baltic Birch.



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10c (Cent) Set-Up Gauge.

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


10c (Cent) Set-Up Gauge.Boys and Girls,One of the first jigs I made since my woodworking revival about a decade ago and I have used it for various measurements and continually finding new uses each day.10c (Cent) Set-Up Gauge you ask!. Hell, it cost a lot more than that, however, it uses an Aussie 10c piece in the locking mechanism, hence the name (DOH!).This gauge is one of the permanent items on top of my workbench (actually mini workbench).

The others are a fine tuned scraper, upside down glue bottle (permanently topped up with glue), low angle block plane, sharp pencil, small steel rule and a tape measure… all the rest are eye candy.I thought I'd write an article on it as it may soon become obsolete with all the new fangle-dangled gizmos inundating the market today and I happen to misplace my hand written instructions on how to use it. For example this Woodpecker Paolini Pocket Rule,
that retails for around $35 and my little gem of a jig will only cost you $49.99, plus the 10c piece, without figuring in labour costs… but the redeeming feature is… no tax.I got the idea out of one of the Australian Woodsmit Magazine published sometime between 2007-2008… I vaguely remember that date as I have the magazine, Issue 55, open on my desk at page 9 just yanking your chain,

incredible that after 10 years it still reads the same and the picture hasn't changed….I consciously deviated from the published design so I can't be accused of plagiarism.I couldn't even spell SketchUp back then let alone know how to use it (whether it actually existed or on the to be invented list), so it was manufactured using the infallible method of trial and error (that's cubed) in the workshop.To outrig this vessel, you will require a 300-310mm length of 25×25mm aluminium angle, a ” brass insert nut, bolt with a knurled brass knob, a small metal ruler (must at least have metric divisions), 5 screws, a small block of wood and some superglue.Now to expand a tad on the above cut list. You require 310mm length of angled aluminium (allowing for 3 kerfs of your aluminium cutter). You should buy 1m of angle as you will undoubtedly stuff it up a few times and drill holes that, unless you close your eyes, would be totally unacceptable. I recommend 5 screws you only need 4, but it is a lay-down-misere (all you 500's card players will know what I mean) that you will drop one and won't be able to find it.
Here is a picture of the ”cut list” for those that are hard of hearing and hate reading as much as I do.
that require the following minor alteration,

  1. Stretch the angled aluminium as it was only 290mm long.
  2. Whittle down the large scrap wood to a more palatable size.
  3. Spend the $1 coin on a 90c item to get 10c change.
  4. Use Photoshop to reduce the 300mm ruler to 150mm.
  5. While you only need a few drops of CA, my stock is 10 years old with expired shelf life so find some that works.
  6. Recharge the battery in my calculator so I can extract exactly 5 screws out of the jar.
  7. Find a metallurgist that can convert the steel knurled knob, bolt and nut into the required brass.
Simple!As I mentioned, I altered the design a bit so if you want to follow the original design you will only need 2 screws and of course a copy of the Magazine as the details that follows is MY DESIGN with 4 screws. I remember the original design also called for self-adhesive measuring tape. Well to pay $10 for the first 200mm of a 2m tape brought out the Shylock in me and I opted for a 150mm metal rule for $3. Now add to that the $8 it cost to buy the super glue to glue the metal ruler to the aluminium and you find that the $11 it cost didn't save you as much as you thought you would. However, you can now use mag-switches on the metal ruler Why?... because you can… and if you used brass screws, the metal rule would be the only component that a magnet will stick to on the jig!!!You will need to take the measurements of an Australian 10 cent piece

and find an appropriate sized forstner bit to recess it into the wooden block,
Then all you have to do is go and search for a 10 cent piece that fits. Incredibly the first 10 cent piece I tried actually fit…
lucky! Alternatively peruse the FBI's most wanted list and track down a reliable forger and mint one of your own and ensure that it fits the forstner hole.A groove of about 1mm deep (and a tad wider than the ruler) will need to be routed into the block to accommodate the smooth movement over the ruler. I recommend this after the scrap is trimmed to size.Now for the knurled knob. I did have to search a bit for a brass one that both suited and didn't take the cost over $100
A bolt with a wingnut on the end of a threaded rod will work just as well, but not as pretty,
When procuring the knurled knob, please ensure it fits your threaded insert
otherwise you'll have to super-glue it in place and the gauge will only be good for one length. I have added this disclaimer as you do not need to stick to but whatever is handy or readily available. Just strive for total integration.Recently, a friend visiting my workshop fell in love with the gauge and wanted to make one for himself. I took down the dimensions of my gauge and made up this quick and dirty SketchUp model.
look at him getting all fancy with those coloursNaturally I haven't built from the SU model, however, my buddy did and he didn't complain as hes no longer speaking to me because of my shoddy drawing. just kidding.Of course this guage is not for everyone and is posted only for those people that want one… for all the rest, you are not obliged to take notes if you bother to read this far.PS. Please note that a nickel is too small and a quarter is too big for a 10c hole.PPS. Forgive the use of Phillips (UGH!!!) head screws, mea culpa, mea-culpa, mea maxima culpa! It was in my ignorant naive days b4 I discovered Robertson screws!
Consequently, 10c pieces are for sale for discounted rate of $10 each (plus P&H) or visit your friendly exchange broker.


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posted at: 12:00am on 12-Jun-2019
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Kettle Lumber Cart

Furnished content.
(from Lumberjocks.com)


Kettle Lumber Cart Short Version:
I made a lumber cart.

Long Version:
As I found myself in need of a way to effectively store all of my scrap and unused lumber, I found myself in need of a Lumber Cart. Many of the designs I found all shared the common aspect of being able to hold a full 4'x8' sheet of plywood.The fact is that I never store sheets that size. If I have a full piece of lumber that size, it gets used up, and it is the off cuts that I need to store for a future project. So after doing some research on smaller options, I came across this concept:Lumber Cart by Wood Working for Mere Mortals
I agreed with many of the facts he set out, especially with the limited space and never needing to store a full sheet of plywood.However, I did not like the angled piece nor the long shelves. Just personal choice. Additionally, I needed to store my assembly tables (Link coming as soon as that project is finished, my blog has build updates) somewhere.So what I came up with was this project.
  • It can store a 4'x4' sized sheet goods, up to a 4'x6' if you really want to.
  • It can store a significant amount of smaller cutoffs, up to 6' long, in two large side bays.
  • It can store a lot of smaller 3'-4' cutoffs in the central large bay.
  • It has a basic built in drawer for those really small cutoffs that are a pain to store.
  • And of course it stores both of my 2'x6' Paulk-Inspired Assembly Tables.
Hope yall enjoy this unique take on a Lumber Cart.


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