My first mallet on the Treadle lathe made from a piece of firewood. I finished it off with a piece of leather hand-sewn around the hitting surface. It was inspired by my Wood is Good Mallets. The winner of the mallet was announced today.If you are interested in seeing the build on video, I will post a link below.Thanks,Jim View on YouTube
Here's some before and after pictures of some sandwich knives used at our deli. As you can see in the second picture, the handles where sort of nasty looking. I did a quick job of replacing the handles. Only three of the four made it into the “after” picture because one was back in service before I could take the picture. The new handles came from a scrap of wood that I'd had around for years. It was labeled walnut, but given the color I can't help but wonder if it was English walnut. The shapes were rough cut on the bandsaw, and then the final shaping was done mostly by hand using files and rasps. The finish is a home brew of mineral oil and bees wax.
This jig was inspired by one shown in a YouTube video by Christofix - DIY ProjectsThe video shows the layout of the template and Christofix's construction of the jig.My version uses a 2-1/2” hole saw, and some scrap plywood that otherwise would have gone in the burn pit. Christofix built the jig to slide over the table on the drill press … I just clamp mine to my drill press table.The knobs this jig produces are about 2-3/8” in diameter.
Hi All Lumberjocks,I decided with Summer just around the corner I wanted to add to my expanding yard game collection by making this Giant Jenga set. My son has loved playing the small version of this game over the winter period and when we played with it last year on Summer vacation I made a mental note to make it for him.This project could not have been any easier and I used a lot of plywood scraps I had lying around for the storage box.As I always do I made a very quick set of plans to determine how much plywood I needed for the box and the Jenga blocks.DesignMATERIALSI estimated that I needed a half sheet of 3/4” plywood and about 6 8' lengths of 2”x4”.JOINERY There was little to no joinery involved in this project the little I had to do was cut to rabbets into the front and back box pieces for the sides to fit into and then its basically all glue and screws. I did cover up the screw holes with some walnut dowel I had laying around. The base of the box is basically glued and screwed into the box frame parts.SHAPINGI added some visual aspects to the box with some cutouts in the front and back and I also cut out some handholds on the sides, I eased all sharp edges with a round over bit and router, after all kids will be playing with it and the last thing I needed on a sunny summers day is pulling splinters out of neighbors kids hands lol
BOX COMPLETE With the box complete as far as woodworking went, still needs paint but that is the wife's department. I sand the box through the grits starting at 100 grit upto 220 grit and also rounded every sharp edge on it with my palm router and it was time to turn my attentions over to the Jenga blocks themselves.THE JENGA BLOCKSYou will need 54 blocks to play the official game and they are basically 2” x 4” x 10-1/2” so I cut all these out of 6 lengths of 2×4's. I spend an age sanding them utilizing all my sanding machines from the belt sander, to the oscillating belt sander and finally the orbital sander this took a long time but the effort was worth it even cheap construction grade lumber can feel nice to the touch after the effort is put in. My cheap Harbor Freight Belt Sander I used 100 grit on this Next up was my Ridgid Oscillating Belt/Spindle sander I truly love using this machine, having it has allowed me to incorporate so much more curves into my work.After all that work the blocks were finished, just all need to be painted so I will wait until the fine weather is officially here and finish this off and give to my son.I do have free plans available to make this as well as a complete blog on my websiteWell that's all I have for now I hope you enjoyed reading this and look forward to any and all comments, is anyone else looking forward to the summer???
It's kind of rough around the edges, and I'm still tweaking it, but here's my version of a sliding table for my table saw.
It gives me about 31" before the blade.
There are three 28" full-extension drawer slides (mounted flat), that control the range of motion before the blade. They're mounted under the top-most level, so as to allow only the top-most level to be pulled back, before the blade. This reduces the weight of the top that slides all the way back.
And there are three 24" full-extension drawer slides (mounted flat), that control the range of motion past the blade. This reserves most of the weight for when sliding beyond the blade (which involves both the top and the second level together), which doesn't usually require the full extension.
Even with the sliding table, I managed to keep the entire table saw setup completely mobile (ignore my claustrophobic shop.)
The beauty of using drawer slides, is that the table has a wide range of forward and backward motion, but the table itself doesn't have to be that long, like other sliding table setups I've seen.
The stacked forward and backward tables can be "locked" in place, because the slides have a built-in locking feature that would have kicked-in when the "drawers" were closed. It's nice because when I move the saw around the shop, the tables don't slide around willy-nilly, but they're easily pushed out of their locked positions when needed. They're in their locked positions in the first pic.
It was all based on the sliding table and cross-cut fence I found here.
Here is a video of how the table moves. It was taken with my cell, just to get something out quick, but I'll post some better footage soon.
Any questions at all, or if you want a pic from another angle, by all means, just ask in the comments.
Thanks for visiting.
Update: There had been an issue with the sliding table top-level sagging a bit when it was pulled all the way back before the blade, so as to accommodate a wide panel for instance. So I came up with the roller assembly you can see in the bottom three pics. I used two shower door roller replacement kits I got at the orange big-box store. It seems to have worked really well. There's a fraction of the sag that was there before. I'm pleased.
Ive been building this dresser for around 4 months on and off between long work shifts. It is made mostly of quartersawn cherry with some flat sawn in there. The secondary wood is poplar. The pictures dont do the grain justice , lots of curl , ray flecks ,etc. Both the case and drawers fronts are dovetailed by jig. I didnt try to follow any particular style but its sort of drifted torwards shaker as the project progressed. The plans and design was all done by myself. Many many hours of drawing before i got to cut any wood.
Thin strippers for short and long stripsHere a couple of jigs I made yesterday, some call them rippers, but I find that kind of barbaric (Jack the Ripper) and since you can strip in all directions, not just rip and often in fiber boards also, then strippers must be the right name – even if some may lift an eyebrow, but as we say in Denmark 'for the pure, every thing is pure'. ;-)The stripper jig with the handle is for short strips and the one mounted on the gauge is for long strips, specific for a Festool table, but same princips can be used on any table saw.The post is from the blog: https://www.lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/129568 where you can read much more. Pictures: 1. The short stripper on the wall, next to half the man he used to be and my daughter laughing. 2. The stripper running up the fence 3. Sawing the rabbet. 4. Backing strips. 5. Saving the handle on the band saw. 6. The long strip jig for the Festool table.
Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps even a thin stripper…Best thoughts,MaFe
A good neighbors of mine, Mark and Pam showed up last year and gifted me 5 pieces of walnut that they have had stored in their garage for 40+ years. The 2” by 5” stem” of this table came from their gift. The top is a 2” thick walnut I bought a few years back and wasn't really sure what to do with until I got the 2×5. Thank you for your feedback and comments.
A month or so back I was asked by a friend if I would be interested in making a river table for their upcoming banquet and fund raising auction. It was of course a colaborative effort with the graphics/style and logo were decided on by the chair person. I had already decided on the lumber to use which was a piece of walnut with a sap wood live edge. Having cut it in 2 pieces I reversed the sap wood and positioned it to appear as if sand on the riverbank. The width (16”) was determined by the width of the river and since the walnut was only 7/8” thick to begin with it ended up 3/4” as a ready plank. After pouring the initial river in blue I laid in the dummy rounds.Then a clear pour to bring the river level with the 'banks'Then I rounded the top edge with a 1/4” round over bit and the bottom with a 1/8” round over bit.To curtail dust and to maintain a constant temperature, I built an oven/pour station with plexiglass on one side. The temperature was maintained with 2 – 100 watt heat lamps installed in the top. I did hang a thermometer inside so I could keep it stable, not too hot and definitely not too cool.I'll be attending the banquet and auction on the 13th of April, anxious to see how it's recieved
Hey Lumberjocks, I just wanted to post a new project, a massive overhead. We designed this overhead so that there was an unobstructed view from inside the house to the pool. The two main columns are 34 feet on center and stand 15 feet from the house. The overhead is 36 foot in length and 17 feet off the house in total. We hired a framer to do the rough carpentry work. Once framed I installed the metal roof and all the flashings on the topside. Once that was completed I installed a 5 1/2 inch Pine shiplap. About 575 sq. feet. We stained ahead of time. At this point I installed a very high grade exterior plywood to wrap the main beam. I then added as much trim as I thought necessary. I removed the gutter and downspout from around the bay window and added 2×6 facia board to keep with the theme. We had electricians add all the lights, heaters and bug zappers. Thanks for checking out the massive overhead. Greg
Here is yet another folding outfeed table. I got a lot of good ideas on how to make this from other LumberJocks, so thanks! I can't believe I waited 3 years to add this to my table saw. This should have been my second project, right after a couple push sticks and feather boards.Pretty simple materials, mostly scraps or leftovers from other projects. Add in some bolts and a couple of door hinges and voila!
Here are some crown boxes I made at a John Wilson workshop. They are cherry bands with a maple rim. The rim is held on with brass pins. The name crown boxes came from Scott Phillips when he and John were having lunch at least that story.
I recently completed this project as a surprise for my sister and her expecting a new baby boy soon. Was happy with turn even though the glow in the dark epoxy was not contained in channels, learn something new with each project. I really like the designs this dangerous machine makes I will be doing more projects with this. This being the 2nd I have attempted.
I haven't posted much of anything here on LJ's for a while now. So when I recently finished this little shop project I thought I would share it with anyone interested. I have several shop made TS sleds for various operations in the shop and truly love how each one serves a quick simple and safe means of sizing and shaping materials on a regular basis! l have a larger CC sled that I have used for several years now but the idea of a smaller version was appealing mainly because I have been working on several projects that are of smaller scale recently. This sled is a little different then what I've researched on the net but produces quick safe and accurate cuts when called upon. Features include stable materials with an aluminum fence rail with T-trac's as well as an aluminum adjustable runner. There's a metal strip with scale that utilizes Mag Blocks for stop block capabilities and other fixtures as well. The safety Lexon shield can be adjusted for different ops. I adopted a feature from-watching David Marks over the years using a pencils eraser to hold down small pieces on his CC sled but I upgraded the pencil with a more stable rod! I had this spare Delta handle laying around so put it to use and it can slide to any position along the rail. There's a safety block (Oak) that keeps the blade tucked away from any stray finger placement. The sled is easily removed and put back between ripping and cross-cutting and has served me well so far. That's pretty much it, if you were considering a smaller sized sled in your future I can recommend its usefulness and practicality! You can never have enough TS fixtures in my opinion but maybe that's just me;) Thanks for taking a look and as always be safe…......Rob
A bit of a departure from my ordinary furniture making. I've had the idea for this project kicking around in my head for a couple of years now, finally had a bit of a break between projects to put it together. Was an old barn beam, not sure the species of wood. Sanded to 320 and then 4 coats of a homemade concoction of tung oil/blo/poly.
Just finished up with a new planer cart. I was getting very sick of picking this thing up and putting it away with it being so heavy. I made a final resting place for it. I took the design from a FWW article. No plans but some extremely helpful drawings. MrFid's design here on LumberJocks was a great reference as well.It is all made from 3/4 inch plywood and some melamine for the in feed and out feed supports. The supports are then edged with some maple that I had on hand. I am able to raise and lower the supports with a carriage bolt mounted in the swinging arms to raise and lower them. The front of the in feed and out feed supports are on hinges that are mounted to a moveable block giving me the ability to adjust right up to the start of the planer bed. The cabinet is placed on casters to make it completely moveable.So far I love this thing. It gives me the in feed and out feed support I wanted without taking up a huge foot print in my shop. My plan is to eventually make the bottom into a space to collect the chips coming out the back. I have gotten some good cuts with no to very minimal snipe with this. It has been great!I think this may be my last shop project for awhile. I feel like I have my garage set up the way I like it…. until I see something cool made on LumberJocks! I am ready to get working with more hardwood now rather than plywood. Thanks for looking!
Not to belabor the point, but, this is the fifth of the six pens I was asked by RBS and TKSM.The wood is, I believe, Bubinga. The model is what they call “Cuban.” It's a Cigar Pen. “Cuban Cigar?” I don't know. The Cigar pens are where I started these pen-making shenanigans. #S 1 & 2 are Cigar Pens. I have the barrels prepared for #20. After dinner, perhaps.Inconcievably, that's all I have to say.Thank you. And, I apologize.
I have been practicing with my wood burning tools lately and wanted to put something on a project other than scrap wood. Found an unfinished cutting board laying around and thought why not. The board is 10 X 14 inches. It was 1 inch thick but was planed a couple times to erase my mistakes. It is made of Claro Walnut and Maple. Walnut is harder to burn than my practice pine, unlike the skin on my fingers. I decided to use a type of vine idea because I thought it might flow around the edges better. I hope to get better at wood burning in the future for the looks and the safety of my fingers.
Platform style bed, headboard, and two nightstands.1. The King bed is mostly 19mm African (Khaya) Mahogany combo core plywood with 15mm solid edge band on the bottom and 6mm edge band on the sides of all pieces. It has two pull out drawers at the foot of the bed.2. The headboard is mostly 25mm African Mahogany with a couple of 19mm combo core plywood with edge banding on the outsides.3. The night stands have a solid 25 mm top and 19mm combo core sides and bottom. The drawer fronts are solid wood as well. There is a wireless phone charger where the circles are.
The pattern is from the web site “Instructables”. I purchased the clock on e-bay. The wood is cherry and it is finished with a satin urethane.I saw a similar clock in a friends office. I was impressed with the style and the visual effect of the clock itself. Fortunately, I was able to find pattern that was a good match for the one I had seen. I did vary the trim from the original pattern using a single router bit.
I wanted an Japanese themed Tea/Saki Cabinet I could give as a gift. I was inspired by a piece I saw from Mike Pekovich and designed it around a 1” x 6” x 9' QSRO I found at the Orange Borg. I added the interior Shelf/Drawers. All hand-cut Dovetails. Again, I incorporated some of my “rescued from the woodpile” stash with some Spalted Curly Maple for the interior drawer fronts.The front panel is a first for me, Kumiko, a fun and addicting process, most definitely will be incorporating this into more upcoming projects.Back panels is some left over 1/4” white Cedar, left unfinished. It measures 14”w x 24”h, a light mission brown dye stain, BLO and hand rubbed wax finish.Thanks for looking!
Hi All,While this isn't fine woodworking, it is mostly constructed out of wood. I've been involved with my kids and their High School drama productions. This year's musical was Disney's “Newsies”, and I was in charge of the set design and construction.The main set pieces were three 10' wide x 10' deep x 22.5' tall towers. We used metal stage trusses as the main supports and the rest was 2×4 and 2×6 platforms and 2×10s for the stair cases. There was a total of twelve platforms and twelve staircases on the three towers. Everything was built on jigs so that the kids could build it fast and so it would all fit together. Each tower rolls on 12 heavy duty casters and are moved with a 440lb electric cable hoist. And finally, each of the three openings in the front of the towers has an electric powered screen that rolls up and down.You can see the towers in action here.Other pieces built for this show include a vintage “bellows” camera out of cherry, 48” diameter wagon wheels from 3/4” plywood and some old stair spindles for our newspaper cart, “Pulitzer's” desk (our painting crew made it look like cherry), a pair of 10' tall doors that fly in on cables, and a pair of 4' x 12' x 10' two level rolling carts.If you do have an opportunity to do something like this, it can be very rewarding working with the kids and teaching them how to work with power tools and do basic construction. It is also fun letting the lead actor fumble with a screw gun for 5 minutes before telling him he has it in reverse! ( ^ 8Now that this is all over, I can get back to making sawdust in my own shop!
Well last time I was here someone let me know that I need to add more details . I am not a writer so I will do my best. This truck started out as plan # 207 from Aschi's Plans. Well I tried to make one of Peter's truck , but as usual I could not stick to a plan. His plans are fun and easy. I just seem unable to follow a plan. All hooked up it about 36” and for me it's about a week to build. It has a lot of pine, oak, maple, ash, and little mahogany here and there.
Been busy the past two weeks after our only Spring Craft Show. One of our regular customers asked if I could make a selection of Inertia Pens and Key Chain Screw drivers for them to use as gifts during the holidays.The Inertia Pens were recently put on Clearance at Woodcraft so I ran over to the local store and grabbed what was left to add to my small stash. Wound up with a full dozen in various color finishes. I was able to match the woods to the finishes with stuff I already had on hand and pretty happy about how they turned out. If you are not familiar with these pens they retract and drop with a flick. Kind of fun type of pen.The screwdriver kits are from Penn State (not a huge fan of their pens but like their little kits) Gun Metal was the chosen finish and again I matched up stuff I already had on hand. As you can see in the last pic they have a selection of tips stowed inside and then are held in the stem with a magnet. Great for glasses or small electronics.Now I have some other project I need to get done and then it on to the BBQ Swap.Hope you all have a good weekend in or out of the shop.CtL
I made this clock using cherry and zebra wood. The pattern is featured in the latest issue of “Wood” magazine. They used walnut and a zebra wood veneer glued to mdf. Since I had some zebra wood scraps, I used them. The clock mechanism is from Klockit. If is finished with a satin urethane. This project was an enjoyable change from the Scrollsaw.
Got a new set of Japanese chisels that were nicely arranged in a box with molded styrofoam holders. So, I recreated it in wood, using the chisels to pare the beds and dovetail the box.The beds for the blades were cut by hand and then split out with the chisels.The handle holes were drilled at the press with a piece of sacrificial wood to complete the material.The dovetails are handcut. The rabbet in the box is not.Of course all of this was preceded by the process of setting up Japanese chisels – setting the hoop, flattening the back, and sharpening. They are a delight to work with now!
Had a friend ask me to help him build a table from some reclaimed hickory that he purchased. First time I've worked with hickory not bad, hard on the equipment. As usual spent a bit of time trying to get the stuff straight enough to work. Project came out pretty good, the wings lift up and are supported by 1/2” pipe that slides out from underneath the main table. Finished with satin polyurethane, 5 coats on the top 3 on the bottom.
I promised my wife that I would make some pull out shelves for the kitchen. They didn't turn out perfect but I am learning a lot as I go. They do roll out smoothly on full extension slides. Frame is red oak, bottom is 1/4” birch plywood in a groove, and finish is Danish oil. Rabbets and grooves were done on my router table, Titebond III was used for the glue-ups, and I used my new Delta table saw to cut the bottom (works great, so much easier to use than the small job site saw that I had before).
I've had fun with this project. I ran across some Dark Walnut and a customer wanted a chest type jewelry box. I used some nice Maple with some beautiful grain for the top and door center for some contrast. I used epoxy with color to make the river look on the top with a clear coat of epoxy finish on the top. I used White Ash for the drawers and dividers. The drawers are lined with pig skin. I used stainless piano hinges and finished the chest with four coats of lacquer..Hope you enjoy
This holdfast was made for the 2019 Spring Swap which was a surprise swap that I didn't join in but followed closely. When time for the reveals was getting close, EarlS, running herd over the swap, contacted me and asked me to make something for PoohBaah (Neil). Earl was afraid Neil wasn't going to receive anything from his sender. I had previously offered my services to Earl for just such an occasion. Now I had just a day and a half to get this shipped.The next morning, I went on a search for 11/16” round bar which would be just right to fit in a 3/4” dog hole, no luck. All I could find was 3/4” unknown steel so I had to reduce the diameter of the shaft to make it fit, which I was doing in pictures 2 and 3. Then I started shaping the foot (flat part) and next the bend for the springy part. I actually made two, but one wasn't going to work.(Sorry for the lack of pictures but I haven't found a way to take them while holding hot iron with one hand and a hammer with the other. Action shots were taken by my wife whenever she happened to pass by.)The next morning, I decided the one I was going to ship needed some more work, so I re-heated it and refined the curve and straightened the foot. I wish I could have spent more time on it Neil, but had to ship it out to you that afternoon.Now, on to the one that wouldn't work. The bend was not in the right place and was twisted. The day after shipping, I went to work on it. First heating:Then into the vise for straightening the twist:Next, it was on to putting the bend in the right place and thinning it a bit to make it more springy:On this one, I drew down the upper part of the shaft to make it smaller in diameter:And here is the result after final shaping, it measures 6 1/2” from the shaft to the tip of the foot:My thanks to Earl for running a great swap and I'm very happy to have been able to contribute a little bit.P.S. The gas cans in the background were in no danger, and, yes, it takes a lot of propane to run that forge ;-)
This is my first ever LJ post and my first ever furniture project. This coffee table has been in the works for roughly 2-1/2 years. When I first started it, I didn't know the first thing about woodworking. I just had a rough sketch and a desire to build something I needed. With a ton of help from my dad (he deserves at least as much credit as I do), some YouTube videos, and many hours on LJ I was able to build something I'm proud of.The table is made completely out of red oak using biscuit joints for the table top and dowels for the aprons and legs. I finished it with Watco Danish Oil before applying several coats of Arm-R-Seal Semi Gloss. Overall dimensions are 47 x 27 x 18.This project was a great learning experience, and I caught the woodworking bug in the process. I'm looking forward to future projects and being a little more involved on LJ.
After experimenting with several shapes for screwdriver handles, I finally settled on one that resembles the Wera screwdrivers. This was pretty easy to do by simply marking the proportions with a piece of tape on the tool rest where the lobes needed to be. I made one for a gift to a friend last year (2nd picture, massaranduba) but I decided I wanted to try making one that was not perfectly round to get an even better grip. I decided to try to use the same shape on a 4-axis turning—1 centered and 3 offset (5th picture). I tried to do this free hand with the tape markers on the tool rest but getting the depth uniform on all 3 sides was tough. After several failed attempts it hit me that I needed a template so I had a buddy help me weld a flat bar to a a round post for a custom tool rest and I made a template that I can screw down to it. I clamped a dowel to a carbide tool to follow the template (4th picture) and got what I think is a very comfortable shape. The first picture is the result. The template makes it really quick to get a consistent shape, not only on each axis but it should make it easier to get the same shape on multiple screwdrivers. It was made from Bradford pear using a multi-bit kit from Woodcraft and finished with Tried and True varnish oil which is my go-to finish for handles and tools. I made this one as a bonus item for the 2019 Spring Surprise Swap.
Another project done. Made a wall-mount for my mountain dulcimer and another for my guitar. I used some kind of an exotic hardwood I got from a really nice pallet. I think it's some kind of mahogany on the dulcimer mount. The guitar mount is a different species also from a pallet. I cut the parts out on the bandsaw sanded and gave them two coats of poly. I had some green leather my dad gave me, he got it from a leather chair he was taking to the dump. I glued/nailed it in place as padding so there wouldn't be wood on wood contact between the instruments and mounts; I thought it was a nice accent too.
So I went to my local specialty wood store looking for long 8/4 walnut for a table I plan on making and to price things out… answer – really expensive! Anyway, while I was there I found on offcut of Mahogany that was 8/4, approximately 6 wide and 3' long (which is unusual because they won't leave anything shorter that 6'). So I picked it up and brought it home figuring that something would occur to me. I have a side table in my room that is an antique piece and I had been examining it for ideas. I decided though to make something a bit smaller (it's about 3' high), modeled on a table I had against the couch that was 2' high. It was modern contruction though and was essentially screwed together which isn't my aesthetic at all. I decided to do a half blind dovetail stretcher to hold the top together and started resawing the wood by hand… this was exhausting, I used a power planer to help me thickness a few of the pieces.This is what I eventually came up with, but I had misjudged the width and the board I had left was too short to be the top. So I went back to the figurative drawing board (I didn't sketch anything out, I was playing by eye) and decided to put a drawer underneath (closer in kind to the original antique that had peaked my interest).Here you can see I added a bottom mortise and tenon all the way around. The nice thing about this design is that it holds together fairly securely even without glue. Sketched out in pencil in the picture above are the through and stopped dados that I was going to cut to hold the side panels. The through dados were cut with a plow plane (which was a pain in the butt because the piece was so narrow that finding a way to work hold it so I could use a fenced tool was almost impossible) and the stopped dados were cut with a router plane.This was the front of the piece where the drawer front would go.Here the panels are slotted in and I have added supports for the drawer.View from the top.From the side.Drawer sides and front cut and ready for dovetailing. The sides and back were scrap cherry and the bottom of the drawer was resawn out of the stock left over from the carcass.The handle I made from a scrap piece of black walnut using my molding planes (really the first time I'm ever used them) and a few rasps. It's not screwed in, there are two brass nails that are a bit angled out from each other going through the drawer front and into the handle. I can glue that or replace with screws, but it's working for the moment (I was in the flow of things and I didn't want to run down to Woodcraft to get brass screws). There is also a brass nail acting as a stop so the bottom of the drawer doesn't slide out.The picture below is the carcass, all built from the same piece of Mahogany.You can see I tapered the legs and rounded the front legs. I used a spokeshave for the rounding and it was a terrible idea. Mahogany reverses grain direction all the time and is a pain to work with hand tools. I should have put it on the lathe and rounded it that way.The figure of eight attachments are for the top connection.I didn't have enough lumber from the original 3' piece to make the top. Luckily I had some Mahogany left over from building my Japanese tool box and I was able to join some pieces together to make the top.
Hi, I was getting a haircut a few months back and there was a September 2018 fine woodworking magazine in the waiting room.I thought the design was cool.Well, wify has a new desk.She still has not picked out the leather for the top. I changed the design because I do not have a lathe for spindle legs. I like mine more than the original.She also did not want a drawer to hide crap…The width is 48 inches. Lots of room on the desk with a laptop. Also, the frame pieces are 1+3/4 walnut. The thinnest is 1 other than the dividers. The design has a hole for cords for a labtop. I put a surge suppressor with usb charging underneath as well.Almost done. She can't decide on the leather color.I will repost when she decides.All joints are dominoesThanks Steve
For the Spring Surprise Swap I decided I wanted to make a clock that looked something like this for my swap recipient – TomGrin:After a lot of tinkering around I settled on a 1” A&C style mortise and tenon frame that was 18”x6”x9” to hold the clock cube. The side panels are QSWO with cutouts to provide some negative space contrast.Since I like to make inlaid panels, I made the clock face from maple, oak, chestnut, katalox, walnut, and black palm. I also made a spare:The clock opening was made using a circle jig and routering a hole in the walnut front, then making a oak inset ring. The glass (poly carbonate) is held in place with an oak spacer that has a slightly smaller round opening cut into it for the hour and minute hands.A hole in the bottom of the cube allows the pendulum to freely swing between the supports. There are 2 pins that hold the cube in place on the supports. Access to the AA battery and the interior of the cube is from the back by removing a sliding panel through the bottom of the cube.The pendulum is made from a straight piece of oak glued to a piece that had a circle cut out of it and then the top of the arch was rounded out. The bob is another piece of walnut that is held in place on the back side of the pendulum.I wasn't sure how well things would turn out so I made 3 clocks. Tom received the oak and walnut version. The cherry and walnut version went to Brandon as a side swap. The last version (cherry/walnut, hybrid A&C with squared plugs and tapered legs) is sitting on the hutch next to the lidded vase that I received from PoosPleasures.All of the clocks have quartz pendulum movements from Schlabaugh and Sons. They were finished with Arm-R-Seal and a final coat of poly, lightly sanded to 2000 grit and buffed with Behlen's deluxing compound.A couple folks asked if I could put a blog together with more build details. I will work on one this weekend.
I wanted to jump right in with my new milling machine so I thought a small infill would be perfect! I underestimated the labor involved by 2 miles, even using the mill I cut it close and hand filed the dovetails to fit. It's 99% built from scratch – the screw came from the hardware store (common 1/4-20 in case it ever need replaced). Everything else was machined in my home shop, even the blade. The intended use is to clean up joinery, especially dovetails and easing /chamfering edges.The sole is mild steel, sides and clamp are brass and the blade is 5160 steel. The bed angle is an ultra low 10 degrees and I put a 30 degree bevel on the blade honed to 800 grit. There's room for improvement but it tested nicely for me! The wood is figured /tiger maple and in the right light you'll see ribbons across it. The whole thing is coated in Renaissance wax. My pictures on the black granite background are from right after applying the wax- mistake! It looks much better in Joe's (Pointer) pics so I used a couple of his here.Here are some pics of the process. Cutting tails first Setting up the vise to cut pins ready for assembly Getting there! I didn't take pics from this point to the finish, it was all blur! The blade was cut from a piece of 1/8” 5160 knife steel, I put a 30 degree bevel on it with the mill then hand honed the flats and bevel on my granite surface plate. It was hardened using a torch til non-magnetic, quenched in peanut oil and tempered in the shop toaster oven.The clamping block was machined from a slice of 1-1/2” square brass bar I had on hand and the pivot pin is 3/8” stainless bar.Overall the sole is about 3×1-1/2” and I hope it is a great user for years to come for Joe! Thanks to Kenny & Dave K for pointers along the way!!
This was my entry sent to recipient LJ Earls. The all walnut segmented lidded vase with finial is from piece of walnut found in an old barn in Big Springs, Ky. This was my first try at loose rings cut into the finial. The all wooden knife ( not good for anything but to talk about) with the end of a 45 caliber shell casing for an emblem is redheart w/all the light colored wood being hard maple. Have made appx. 252 bowls and vases and about 1080 wooden knives since my retirement.
After moving into our new home in Mount Vernon, Wa. We have continued to improve our home by adding new floor, painting and making new decor features that satisfy us. These new doors replace a set of mirror slider doors that haunted us when we walked in our front door. This design is very similar to the doors I made for our closet in our old home in Indiana. I used simple construction grade material. Simple to make and so much of a difference.
Hello everybody, I haven't written or posted anything for awhile, so here I go. If you remember, I made a copy of an Eames walnut stool for my church's auction, which I posted here. A couple of weeks ago, the lady who won that stool with the highest bid called and told me that she wanted a taller one to use as an end table. Well, this is it. I had to draw up plans because I don't think Ray Eames planned on making a taller stool like this. Same dimensions overall, 13 inches for the top, 11 inches for the base, 4 inches for the mean diameter of the center spindle, but 23 inches in height, up from 15 inches. Made from poplar with a walnut stain. Hope you guys like it.
I have not been able to get much time in the shop lately so to ease myself back into it I made a wooden spoon using mostly hand tools. Spoon making is a lot of fun!! I made the spoon out of some scrap ash wood, I used milk paint and clear lacquer on the handle. The oil did cause a small bit of discoloration on the handle because I did not apply lacquer down far enough.I made a video while making the spoon please check it out!!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqKTzM3rbRs&t=20s
I built this coffee bar for my wife's birthday this past fall 2018. (Sorry I never uploaded it)I used concrete to make the countertop and the lower shelf and also added Alexa-enabled an RGBW led light strip to it to help add some ambiance to it and the house. It weighs upwards of 700-800 lbs and only cost me two smashed fingernails(that have regrown) and about 400$I used unfinished cedar 4×4's for the outside posts and then used 1 Pine in various widths to dress the sides overplywood panels.The cabinet door is held in place with a 12lb resistance neodymium magnet and has a led motion sensor light bar inside to illuminate the coffee and the supplies.I used bags of various bolts, nails, screws and hammer markings to accent and distress the wood before finishing with Jacobean and spray-on polyConcrete was sealed with food grade (non-toxic) concrete sealerI used a concrete mixer and charcoal die to give it a more grey colored concrete finishThis took me about a month to build.It gets well used and most likely have no intention to ever move it again. Lol. Whenever we move and build another home.. it won't be joining us lol
Last November Motoman posted his picture of this jaguar. I loved it and had to give it a try. He was kind enough to tell me where to purchase the pattern so here is my try at it. I have not framed it yet, kinda thinking I might try staining on it. Got to think about for a while, I have not done it before.It is cut in 1/2” thick Oak, 15” x 12”.
This is the last project of the winter season here in Arizona. it is a mesquite bingo money barrel that has been fractal burned all the way around. It also has a dime in the top and a bayonet closure to lock the top on.(Bingo is a dime a game in our park)It is finished with clear gloss lacquer.Cheers, Jim
Last year I met a fellow who was a friend of a friend. As we were talking I was telling him about some of the woodworking I do. He told me that he had built a dining table 40 years ago and was still using it but he had always hated the legs and would I make him new legs. Had him send me some pictures of what type of legs he wanted and got to building. the legs are made of laminated 4/ quarter african mahogany sanded to 1500 grit and finished with 5 coats of gloss laquer and then paste wax. I delivered and installed the legs. The customer who has since become a good friend was so happy with the legs that he has had me build a live edge dining table for his son and the mother of all cutting boards for him.
This is a table that my wife designed. It would have been fairly simple to make except for making it expandable and having a storage area for the extra leaf. She did a lot of designing to get it to clear the pulled out leg for removal and return. I wound up needing to rebuild the pullout and the hidden supports to get it to slide relatively easy. Not very smooth, but won't be opened that often. Got the idea of having the division on the end of the table rather than the middle of a furniture store. Which I tried to hide the gap with the design that was added to the ends. The design was redone once as the first one didn't work out very well visually. Al
I designed these about 3 years ago and have been making them as holiday gifts, birthday/wedding gifts, etc. Choosing a penny with a specific date gives a great way to personalize it. People love receiving them.One of these is cherry, the other is soft maple from my yard.If you are interested in building one, I posted a video with complete instructions here: https://youtu.be/vy3nNAw2qToThanks for looking!
This bowl is strung with banjo strings. It was made for a friend that fell and lost some use of his left side. So while on the road to recovery he can use this as therapy to gain back some of the motor skill needed to play his stringed instruments. Bowl is cherry 11'' painted with acrylics Enjoy Jerry
My brother is an apiarist. Honey Bees are amazing little creatures. In doing a little research, it is evident that our ecosystem would crash without these powerful pollinators. So my brother needed some new beehives. And while bees can take up residence in all sorts of spaces, the physics and shape of a top bar beehive offers many advantages over the white boxes most of us are familiar with. There's no shortage of plans on the internet and likewise, more YouTube videos than you can watch in a weekend! Oh, yeah. The honey is a pretty useful byproduct of their labors. So if you see a swarm of bees somewhere that you's prefer they not be, don't kill them—-call a beekeeper and feel all the better for it. For the longest time, scientists were unable to explain how bees could fly. Turns out it's quite and exotic mechanism that keeps them airborne. Check out this site for an explanation. https://www.livescience.com/528-scientists-finally-figure-bees-fly.html As for the very complex eyes on bees, they can't see red but in the spectrum from mid orange to ultraviolet, we've got nothing on them. Explained in this website, it gives a clue why I chose blue and green for the colors. https://www.beeculture.com/bees-see-matters/
Plane was made with Ziricote & Baltic Birch Plywood. The adjusting mechanism and blade are from Lee Valley. I built the plane as a test to see how stable it would be (less wood movement) using plywood for the core. Plane takes a nice shaving. Very happy with the end result.
I had to whip this one up real quick. I had taken some rattles and toys to the vet with me because they all found out I was a woodworker and wanted to see…. So the head vet asked if he could purchase a rattle and sheep for one of the techs who is pregnant. I said give me a week. Mistake – snow storm and freezing temps makes shop time minimal! Kaylie loves our rescue dogs, and has a special place in her heart for our elder blind dog, Toad, so I wanted to do a little something extra special for her. So I used what walnut I had and make this box, it's about 7.5×5.5×5. As far as a rush job in the cold goes, I think it turned out perfect and she cried when I delivered it today. The head vet had no idea what I meant when I said, 'a little something extra' and he was blown away too. Definitely put a smile on me for the day! The toys are finished with organic cold pressed flax oil/organic beeswax and the box is finished with 6 coats wipe on poly and 2 coats wax. Please look to my previous baby boxes for credit where credit is due for mom/baby and rattles!!Thanks for looking :)
So, I had this customer who runs an outfitter in the arctic in Canada. The walking sticks are over 7' tall and they are used to create a distance between the guide and the polar bears in case of a close encounter. He said that due to the lack of humidity, most wood products virtually disintegrate within a year or so. My challenge was to make these sticks to withstand the severe dryness the environment in arctic presents. I used Contact cement combined with CA glue for the inlays and gave each stick about 12 coats of polyurethane before shipping it to him. As far as I know, so far, more than a year and half later the sticks are alive and well providing a safe distance between him and the 10'+ polar bears. He is supposed to let me know when these sticks will start to show wear so long as he maintain them with a coat of turtle wax car finish every week. I plan on doing an article on that when or if the finish relents. Isn't it funny that most of our worried is the excessive humidity instead of lack thereof??
First crack at a treats box. Pine box with milk-painted poplar lid and maple bone lift. Bottom is lined with best Dollar Store shelf liner.Lettering and dog paws are my first attempt at double-bevel scroll saw inlay using walnut.Lucy likes it! Awesome that she thinks kibble is treats.
I've been trying to teach my 10 year old son about the family trade (woodworking) over the last few months. A couple of days ago he came to me and asked if I could help him make something to put his soda bottle collection in. The next day we went out to my shop and we drew up some plans. Then we built it. The most I did was help him with the dados and do the router work around the edges. Then I just showed him how to use the and saw and the drill press and he did the rest. He didn't even need my help assembling it.
I made ANOTHER wooden pixel project: Goomba! This version is end grain instead of my usual plywood creations. This pixel wall art project is a great way to use up wood scraps destined for the fire pit.I did a sloppy job with the glue up so there are a few painful looking gaps, but from a distance you can't really see them so I'll try overlook them. :)I used leftovers from my Tardis End Grain cutting board project. I couldn't bring myself to toss the scraps so I held onto them for well over a year.I documented project details on my blog. You can read the steps about it here.Here's the build video for end grain Goomba. View on YouTubeThanks for checking out my project!
then again you may not have unfortunately there's no third option so you must choose between the two now don't lie to yourself!This project presents my take on the UnaBox which I made a few years ago when I was a SketchUp duckling in my late 60's.The reason I'm belatedly presenting this project is because a friend asked me about shellacing and as the UnaBox was used in a shellacing demonstration video by a very clever master ctraftsman woodworker whom I proudly call a friend, I decided to link that video to this project and hopefully provide some useful information for some. Now in defense of the presenter (to provide anonymity, let's call him Carl... only because that's what his mother named him), while we have debated the French polishing topic often in the past, this was an ad-hoc, unrehearsed undertaking through my continued persistence, cause he owed me a favor and I demanded my kilo of flesh. We ferreted around for about 10 minutes in preparation to amass some of the items required, clear his dining table (much to the chagrin of his missus) and set up the camera and of course poured me a generous glass of vino. The video goes on for about 1 hours, however, it is about how shellacing is done traditionally and not the modern day twist presented by those shoot from the hip cowboys that may have sniffed a tad too much metho. If you want the craftsman version, please check out this video, otherwise if you just want to brush it on, simply search the Internet. We did pledge to make a rehearsed formal video, however, time has been our major critic and I feel (contrary to the presenter), this rough cut, iuneditteds video is better than not knowing about it rather than some of the misadvice found on the net.Back to the UnaBox. I downloaded the plans off the internet, imported into SketchUp, and then totally disregarded the SU model and went off and did my own thing Shit, somehow it actually worked and it now has a nice coating of shellac thanks to Carl.The box was made out of merbau and flocked (with an ”l”) on the inside. That beauty spot on the lid is where I dropped it, dented it and patched it and called it a contrasting feature as I was too bloody lazy to fake another dovetail by making a new lid..I wanted to make the box puzzle self-destructive without any external tools. You could use a coin to remove the threaded plug, however, all my friends are cheap and when they borrowed my 10c piece to undo the plug they never return it the 10c not the plug just think if 1,000,000 people undid the box, I'd be $100,000 poorer. Consequently there is a dummy plug with a cam that can be rocked out of place revealing an underlying washer, The washer is used to remove the threaded plug. the threaded plug and the hole both have repelling magnets forcing some upward pressure on the plug to remove the need to exert strong closing force.The top lid can be swung around out of the way, To permit pushing the lid back out of the captivating notch, Then the whole lid can be swung around exposing the flocked cavity waiting for that elusive 10c piece to be placed inside, that never eventuatesAnyone crazy enough to undertake this project can get the plans and vague measurements from here, otherwise don't waste more time and do yourself a favor and get educated by this video (in case you ignored the previous link)..., just don't forget the popcorn and a potty if you don't have a pause button on your video player.I think I have puzzled myself out by this latest instalment, so you may rest easy knowing that there is no planned masochism on you, the unwary public.
These are 3 bingo money barrels I had planned to sell at the March 2nd sale, but my lathe broke down in the process and I just finished them today. They are made from pecan wood and have a bayonet style lock on the lids. I used 1/8 brass pins and carved out the grooves for the twist lock feature.They have dimes inlaid in the top because bingo is a dime a game at our park . They are finished with clear lacquer.cheers, Jim
This saw was designed by Steve Good. It features wolves scrolled into the saw blade. The blade is made from a piece of 1/4” Baltic birch plywood with the handles from 1/4 ” plywood too. I used the Ex 21 scroll saw. The blade was a #3 modified geo. Pegus blade.
Bill Pavlak relished the opportunity to revisit the process of dishing out a large surface by hand. Not only was this a special project in and of itself, it was also a chance to prove to himself that he had in fact learned a few things over the years.
My wife saw a table like this in an antique store and wanted it so I did the typical I could build that. Well she bought it anyway and I built one anyway. This is made from 5/8 thick wormy chestnut from my grandparents house. The house was built around 1920 so i would guess this was cut almost 100 years ago. I used all i had but 4' of 5/8 x 4 piece so it worked out well. The top is 23 diameter and stands about 22 tall.All joints except the top to base are mortise and tenon with dowel pins. The top is attached with figure eights. The challenge with this project was repeating the wavy edges between the legs and the support legs and making the waves within the legs parallel. Those of you who are masters probably have a better solution, but what I did was made a pattern and template of one edge and used that template to make a template that allowed me use my router. After about three tries I finally got something i could use. The legs hinge on screws. I finished with shellac to replicate the finish in my grandparents house.
My first piece of furniture. Was a “village” project as I asked several questions on LJ and got lots of great feedback. Walnut table top and ambrosia maple legs. Also my first time experimenting with half-lap and rabbet joints. The original plan I found online called for pine and pocket hole screws, so if it looks a little weird it's because I decided to get creative and abandoned the script pretty early on :)Definitely a first time project but the wife loves it, I learned a lot, and I think it looks pretty good.
My shop is 1300 sq feet with a finished out office and bathroom taking up about 350 sq feet of that space. I've got a ceiling that is 17' at the peak and so i have a loft area over the finished office/bathroom that i use for storage. To make better use of the space i needed a way to get things up there safely. I framed in a couple of sections of the wall right in front of my bathroom as it is indented/shallower then the office there is a little cove area that is essentially wasted space (wasted space meaning i cant put tools there of course) The walls have 4×4 supports that carry the load all the way to the concrete floor. I had a 5/8” thick T beam in my junk pile that i created a saddle for out of some 2×12's that span the wall and are lag bolted in place. Then i installed some 2×6's on the wall where i was planning on putting a track system/ ladder for the elevator. Initially my plan was to fabricate the ladder/track but when i got to the scrap yard i found a 3/8” thick angle iron utility ladder that actually suited my purpose really well and i only paid 30 bucks for it. I cut it down and welded some 5/8” thick L iron brackets to the ladder then drilled holes in them and bolted them to my previously installed 2×6 stock using 6” structural rated GRK bolts. after that it was time to make the trolly/elevator platform that would ride up/down the ladder/track. I got some casters and welded up a T brace for the left/right the casters were then welded to the brace i created an I shaped piece with hole patterns at the top/bottom of the I then drilled/tapped holes into the platform frame. I was just barely able to flex the elevator platform onto the ladder/track then i bolted the I in place. I installed a connection point of the hoist right on that I section and installed the hoist above. Eventually ill be changing the 2 ton chain hoist out for an electric one but its just what i had laying around and it actually works great + you can't beat the reliability/ safety factor of something designed to hold %4000 of the load i actually intend. In all i have lifted about 400lbs of freight on this elevator with zero flex the platform is probably 120 lbs and the chain hoist is about 120 as well. I have the hoist chained to the top of the ladder as a safety precaution. I was thinking of adding a ratcheting catch made of plywood that will grab the ladder rungs in the event of a failure but haven't quite gotten around to designing that part of the project.
Face grain tumbling block cutting board out of the usual cherry, walnut, and maple. I inlaid a little bunny rabbit in the corner for mom. Its my first one and I was worried about getting it right but honestly it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be and read it was going to be. The only challenging part was glueing.just a pain.To get the saw angle set up correctly I did the most accurate method—-just keep adjusting the angle until the pieces fit right. I have one of those magnetic digital angle block indicators that everybody has and found that it is certainly less than accurate.One of the photos is an example of a 'sausage' that I made for glue up. I could crosscut 3 'pucks' out of each.I found that the larger the piece got during glue up the more difficult it was to fit pieces together. Im sure this is due to the +/- one degree of accuracy adding up or down the larger it got. I sanded the pieces to fit best I could and used tons of glue.The overall size is something near 12”x16”x1.75”My advice to doing one of these is just get your tilt on the tablesaw correct—and LOTS of rubber bands!
This is a Mike Penkovich design from FWW 269.I cut the dovetails by hand however. Lots of little lessons along the way in this project!Unfortunately (?) I live with a bunch of tea connoisseurs who only drink loose leaf tea so there won't be any tea bags in this one.
When a 12 year old girl says “grampa, do you think you could make barn doors for my closet?”, how can you say anything but yes. I asked her to find me a picture of what she wants them to look like and I would do my best. She was really excited when she came home today and they were done. I have included a picture of what the old doors looked like.
Mike, Barry, and Ben lament the impending demise of their favorite tree, what specifics they look for in sketchbooks, using a hollow-chisel mortiser as a drillpress, and their favorite woodworking books
Hi all! Sorry I've been gone for a while… Life, ya know. I wanted to make something for my honey for Valentine's day, and I picked up a piece of Juniper burl that had been kicking around the shop for years. I made this vase and was very pleased! I gave it to her with a couple of paper flowers in it that I made from and old chemistry textbook. It took most of my skill set to make it – swirling grain, bark inclusions, and varying wood densities made it a real challenge. It's about 5” tall.
Request from the Boss, small plant stand made from some left over Walnut and Oak scraps, except for the top which is Walnut 4/4 slab of Walnut Burl from another project. Oak side rails added after the original walnut ones failed during construction, mortises cracked. About 9” x 14” and 15” tall, finished with OSMOS hardwax and a coat of Fiddlers paste wax on the top.
This End Grain Cutting Board did not turn out quite the way I had planned. After the glue up twice over, I was rounding the board's edges on my router (which helps with tear out on the ends) and the router bit caught the board and took a chunk out of it..(Laziness and a dull bit) caused this boo boo. The board was layed out for a 13 1/2 x 21 board. After trimming, it finished out at 12x 21. Walnut, Flaming Birch and White Ash were the woods I used. Enjoy
Added a Cheese and Crackers tray to our collection today made from black walnut and birch. The tray measures 12 L x 10 W x 1 D. Finished the tray with three coats of mineral oil followed by rubbing in a coat of beeswax and orange oil for a foodsafe finish.