A friend asked me to make a stool as close as possible in Red Oak to what the last two pictures are of a stool her father made her with plywood and screws. No mechanical fasteners here just tusks and wedges. The angled mortise was a challenge by hand. She will stain and finish to match her floors. Of course she gets a cut off to test color.
Here's a just completed version of the Federal tea caddies that are so popular lately. Built per Rob Millard's generous instructions, this is a pine box veneered with crotch mahogany and homemade bandings, stringing, and paterae of holly, mahogany, ebony, and dyed veneers. It's finished with hydrated lime, Trans Tint yellow and golden brown dyes, and shellac, rubbed out with 400g and 600g papers and 4F pumice.
It's kind of rough around the edges, and I'm still tweaking it, but here's my version of a sliding table for my table saw.
It gives me about 31" before the blade.
There are three 28" full-extension drawer slides (mounted flat), that control the range of motion before the blade. They're mounted under the top-most level, so as to allow only the top-most level to be pulled back, before the blade. This reduces the weight of the top that slides all the way back.
And there are three 24" full-extension drawer slides (mounted flat), that control the range of motion past the blade. This reserves most of the weight for when sliding beyond the blade (which involves both the top and the second level together), which doesn't usually require the full extension.
Even with the sliding table, I managed to keep the entire table saw setup completely mobile (ignore my claustrophobic shop.)
The beauty of using drawer slides, is that the table has a wide range of forward and backward motion, but the table itself doesn't have to be that long, like other sliding table setups I've seen.
The stacked forward and backward tables can be "locked" in place, because the slides have a built-in locking feature that would have kicked-in when the "drawers" were closed. It's nice because when I move the saw around the shop, the tables don't slide willy-nilly, but they're easily pushed out of their locked position when needed. They're in their locked positions in the first pic.
It was all based on the sliding table and cross-cut fence I found here.
Here is a video of how the table moves. It was taken with my cell, just to get something out quick, but I'll post some better footage soon.
Here is another video of the table in action while cross-cutting a wide panel.
Any questions at all, or if you want a pic from another angle, by all means, just ask in the comments.
I had this odd shape/sized piece of Claro Walnut that my buddy gave to me. I could see the amazing grain and figure so although it was shaped like a potato chip, I couldn't bring myself to get rid of it. I finally decided that I would sacrifice some of the beauty of the piece in order to at least have some of it useable. To celebrate my 2,000 follower milestone on Instagram I am currently hosting a giveaway, and this board as well as one of my t-shirts is my contribution to the overall prize package. There was A LOT of epoxy filling to get this board to this point. The sapwood portion was crumbling due to rot and there was some beautiful spalting present to confirm on the piece that was scrapped. I chose to use shellac cut 50/50 with denatured alcohol to soak into the sapwood and help stabilize it. I then finished with Howard's cutting board oil and buffed it out. Though this board took about twice as long as I thought it would, I am very pleased with how it came out. I also am pleased that my brand came out so perfect for this giveaway prize as well. Any questions or comments are always welcome. Thanks for stopping by.
The French Mitre Saw—Scie RecalerLumberjock theoldfart, aka Kevin, recently sent me his French mitre saw, or scie recaler in French, for restoration. His saw is old, and it rightly has the appearance of a beautiful antique. As soon as I saw it, I knew I had to make one. I ended up making three, and two of them are now listed for sale on my website. Below is a photo of Kevin's antique saw.
When it comes to woodworking, the French have traditionally done things a bit different than their British or American counterparts. The standard use of frame saws rather than handsaws is one example. For cutting miters, instead of a miter saw and miter box they adopted the scie recaler and the boite recaler, literally the saw to recalibrate and box to recalibrate. In that sense, recalibrate relates to sawing the desired angle. We call the boite recaler a miter jack. This type of saw can also be used to make 90 degree cuts in a device known as a flat jack. In the drawing below, the flat jack is on top and the miter jack is on the bottom. Both are called boites recaler.In researching scies recaler, I found they were all very similar with a few minor differences. Some have a handle profile like Kevin's, and some have a little fancier handle profile like the example pictured below. Also, some are single sided and some are double sided, with two toothed cutting edges, as shown in this picture.
The three saws I made are all single sided with the slightly more elaborate handle profile. I made the saws in two lengths, two at 20 and one at 18. The 18 saw has a slightly thinner and narrower saw plate and handle than its brothers. By comparison, Kevin's saw is 55cm or about 21-5/8” in length.A scie recaler has five components:1. handle - Kevin's handle, and probably most French-made handles, are of European beech. I made mine from cherry and applied a dark antique stain.2. saw plate - For the 20 saws I used 0.028 spring steel 5 wide, same as on Kevin's saw. I used 0.025 steel 4-1/2 wide on the 18 saw.3. backing plate - I'm not sure of the correct name of this component, so I'm calling it the backing plate. It is a strip of spring steel the same width as the handle, and the saw plate is sandwiched between it and the handle. I used 0.032 spring steel, which is the same as Kevin's saw.4. flat head screws - On Kevin's saw, and on my 20 saws, 12 slotted flat head screws are used to secure the backing plate and saw plate to the handle. On my 18 saw I dropped the number to 10. These screws are countersunk into the backing plate. Originally on Kevin's saw, the screws were #4 steel screws. Some of the screws were missing, the threads on others were badly rusted, and the screw holes in the wood had become wallowed out over time. I replaced the screws with 5/8 #5 brass screws and used the same type brass screws in my saws.5. eye screw for hanging - In looking at pictures of similar vintage saws, I noticed that many had steel eye screws in the end for hanging. I think hanging the saws is a good idea because they aren't easily adaptable to a till, and if they're just left laying around, they will be subject to dulling from banging into other objects. Kevin's saw had three holes where the eye screw had been replaced at various times, but there was no screw present now. I replaced his eye screw and installed them on my saws, but I used brass because I thought it looked better.I'm not aware of anyone else in the world currently making this type of saw, so a new one is probably a pretty rare thing. Antique ones are not very plentiful either. I hope my three scies recaler remain attractive and useful for as long as Kevin's antique one has.
Decided to make the wife a keepsake box for our 5 year wedding anniversary. Have had this piece of walnut that I been wanting to use for a waterfall box. The lid is made from some figured walnut that I had resawn as well as some figured cherry. The small trays and inserts are all made from the cherry and walnut used in other places on the box. It was fun to make something small and sentimental for a change. She loved it.
Small kitchen pantry from 3/4 in oak plywood with real red oak for the faceframes and door frames. It also has adjustable shelves. The last pic is in the customers home and I guess the light made it look totally different in the pic but the customer was pleased.
This simple has been dragging on for way too long, but I have a project Ive started and need to finish this one.I started out digging through the wood pile and I found a piece of quarter dawn oak, 3/4 thick. I roughed our the shape on the table saw…. then I put the project down as winter was approaching and I had to finish up Christmas presents first.After Christmas presents were done, I took a little time to dissect were to go next, so I took the factory insert screwed it upside down to the new insert, I then used my router table and a flush trim bit to cut it to the same shape and size to the factory. After that, I removed the screw and factory insert. Using a Forstner bit and the screw holes I drilled out the recesses for the leveling screws.Fast forward several more weeks, I got back to my router table to cut out recess for the little itty bitty ledge on the table saw. After that it was a little bit of free hand shaping using the router.I purposely left a little extra in the top side, so After all that I took the finished insert back through the planer to get the perfect fit.
Reclaimed wood off-cut from larger wood projects. I'm almost sure this is some kind of New Zealand wood, maybe puriri. But it's very dark, even for puriri. It's almost certainly riverwood.At one angle the wood is so dark it's almost black. However, once you get it into the sun and turn it, it takes on a beautiful copper/bronze sheen.Inlay is cow bone.
I tell people that I am a woodworker. Sometimes, I think that my real hobby is a workbench builder who occasionally takes on woodworking projects. This Roubo is the 3rd – and hopefully last…- workbench that I have built for my woodworking addiction. My first bench was built when my wife thought that she might still park in the garage again one day. It was only 4 feet long for space saving reasons. It had a 4 thick laminated top and was as ugly as it was strong. My second workbench was designed to be more of a looker than a workbench. At 5 feet long and with a 3 thick laminated top, it was larger, but not really very useful. It was stained and had a padded on shellac top that was a ridiculous surface for any type of real work.Since the parking in the garage thing has gone away permanently, I decided that I could finally build a workbench that would be large enough to meet my needs, and be a bench that would be useful as well aesthetically pleasing. I ordered the Benchcrafted Split Top Roubo Plans and started designing, The plans call for a bench that is 87 long. I did not want a bench quite that long, so I cut my bench down to 79. My intention was originally to end up at 78, but through fairly accurate clamping during glue ups, I did not need to trim much off the ends to even them up. Also, the bench was designed to end up at 24 wide. My first bench was 30 wide, and I really enjoyed the extra width, so I modified the plans to end up with a 30 wide top.I batttled with my choice of wood and hardware for the bench. The Benchcrafted hardware is incredible. I have never heard anything but praise for it, and at $700 I would hope so. I couldn't justify to myself spending that kind of money on vises. Similarly, while I initially planned on building the bench out of ash, again, the price tag was not something that I could convince myself to spend. In the end, I went with Yost vise hardware and good old 2×12s from the big box stores.I started the bench in earnest in mid January, but it wasn't until I was took a vacation in early February that I really made progress. The top is 4 thick. The legs are 3 1/2 thick and 5 wide. The base is about 42 wide. I like a taller bench even though I am 5'9. The final height is 38, which seems to be pretty perfect for me.I won't go into great detail about the build, but I can tell you that there was a lot of jointing, planing and LOTS of glue. I used 2×12s that I carefully selected for grain and lack of defects. I was very selective when it came to pieces that would show to end up with clear bench top and leg faces. My clamps were constantly in use. I bored the round dog holes before laminating whole sections so that I could use my drill press.The back half of the top is fairly straightforward, but the front half of the top is about 10 of solid top laminated to the square dog hole piece with a front lamination. I laminated a couple of boards to get a piece 1 3/8 thick and used a router to route out the dog holes. Then, I laminated another 3/8 thick piece to the front of that, followed by the front face. The square dogs are cut from scrap and have an ash spring to keep them from falling through the top.My top glue ups were fairly flat aided greatly by the use of my biscuit joiner. I know that a lot of people don't love the biscuit joiner, but I can say that since I picked up the Dewalt joiner in October of last year, my panel glue ups are far flatter than they were prior.The leg vise, using the Yost screw, was pretty easy. I had already constructed the chop, and it was in use on my previous bench. I did add the standard through leg parallel guide during the construction of the legs and base. I bought a piece of 3/8 steel that I cut to size and glued into a piece of dowel for the guide pin. I was so pleased with the screw that I ordered the Yost end vise to include on this bench. That is where my pleasure withYost vices ended. That might actually not be fair to say. From what I can tell, there is no version of the sliding end vise available that comes with any type of clear instructions on installation. I found an article from one of the woodworking mags where the author built a bench using what appears to be the Woodcraft version of the same vise, and used that as a guide. After following the included diagrams/instructions from the article, my vise did not line up properly, so I went back to the drawing board.I decided that I really only needed the vise screw, so I tossed the slide portions. I cut a thick piece of pine that I drilled a 1 1/4 hole in to accommodate the screw, and cut out the shape of the sliding nut in another. I glued on a front and back face to the nut and then I glued on a wider top piece that would hold the removeable dog and ride in the channels that I routed in the top to accept the nut. In the end, it worked out, and I am pretty happy with the way that it works.After sanding everything to 120, I gave everything a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil. I probably will end up building a storage cabinet that will sit on the shelf below the bench top, but thought I would spend a little time working on the bench so that I have a better idea of what I want to store in that cabinet. Also, I used dowels and drawboring to complete the base assembly rather than Benchcrafted's knock down hardware.I love my new bench! It is heavy, has more features than I need, and is solid as I could hope for. The size is perfect for anything that I need it for, and I am very proud of the way that it looks. I am not sure that I will need to remove the gap stop often, but I can absolutely see that the I will use the slots for tool storage often. I also am really looking forward to having the ability to slide the gap stop over to use the slightly elevated stop as a planing stop. I ordered a couple of Grammercy holdfasts to provide additional workholding capabilities.In all, I probably have about $300 in the bench in wood and hardware. Had I gone with ash and the Benchcrafted hardware, I would have been looking at closer to $1,400. I am very happy with the end result AND I am shopping for a new 8 jointer with the savings!I am going to add several pics below from the build. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.Thanks for looking!
Bonjour Voici mon camion dodge power wagon de toys and joys J'ai eu beaucoup de plaisir a le fabriquer Il est fait avec de l'rable et du noyer Le noyer a t noirci avec le mlange de vinaigre et laine d'acier Le treuil et le pare-choc a t modifier
Inexpensive version of rustic American Flag. Made of 1×2 common pine furring strips. And 1×12 common pine union. First test of the shapeoko cnc to carve union stars… (partial fail -stars came out a little wonky because the pine was so bowed) Some look small and some large. Stained and urethaned. Total cost: about $40 and a few hours of fun work…
Three simple stools made of poplar. 15” X 22” X 14” tall. Because they'll eventually upholstered, no fancy joinery was used. The aprons are attached with pocket hole screws and glue. The tops are removable to simplify the upholstering process.
Happy New Years my fellow woodworkers. Its been a while since I've been able to post projects! I wanted to update you all on some of my fun new projects over the past year.What do you all think????Looking forward to hearing your feedback and if you have some new ideas….I'm always looking for a challenge ;).The woods used up above are Ebony, Rosewood, Kingwood, Whiskey Barrel, and Olivewood.I am also very excited to announce that I have become one of the official guitar string jewelers for Rock The Dogs! I get to work with some of the most awesome rock stars guitar strings to raise money to help save dogs lives!Cheers to a great 2019!! May your sawdust be plenty and splinters be few!!!Thanks, Shannonbentwoodjewelrydesigns.com
The previously small footprint of the legs of this round table base had an issue. The table used pedestal table extension slides. When it was extended to accept a table leaf, the table tended to tip if too much downward pressure was put on either end of the table top. The only viable solution was to extend the base. I removed two of the rails and replaced them with elongated rails. It extended the leg footprint by nine inches and solved the tipping issue.
As I posted in a forum I've been asked to make a wedding ring for my best friend. I've never tried a ring or anything like it so I'm doing some trial and error before attempting the real ring. Here is number one, which my 3 year old has confiscated…Please let me know your thoughts and critiques
My wife showed me a picture of an entertainment center from Pintrest. I seriously need to ban her from that app. There were no plans so I just did it the best I know how and apply the framing skills I have learned from building storage buildings.This project cost me about $120 since I already had 3/4” plywood. This was my first furniture type of project and am pretty happy with the results.
No idea why the pics are sideways, they're right side up every other place I post them.
Small wall hanging (measures 9 inches) across the flats of the hexagon.Woods: Walnut, Birch, Chestnut, Canarywood, Fiddlewood and Chechen with a Maple (Walnut stained) frame.The center buttons are slices made from a log of the six woods rotated 180 degrees and stand out from the surface 1/4 inch.
I wan't going to post this project as I presented the idea in my last post half way through the day, but since I went back and totally rebuilt the adapters, and many may not have seen it earlier in the day. I have pretty well beat this sander unit idea to death, but someone still may be want to build one. Just an idea what you can do with this project. Here are some pictures of it as an edge sander and in vertical position. Made from scrap 2 inch stock, sturdy and assembled with screws only, could use any material.For this interested on You Tube I completed this series with this final videohttps://youtu.be/9Lbp7NW2vKEI see a number have Favorited this project, you may be interested in these possibilities. I enjoy using things I make myself.Thank for staying with me on this sander project. Now I would like to get started on another model car. Only trouble is it is minus 20 C out there and the shop is kinda cold.
Hey all – yet another end grain board…..a bit of a creative block going here so I find these builds a good way to break the block….But first – thanks to my friends for reaching out wondering where my new projects are…..appreciate it!Here's the build blog:1. Scrounge the bins for Maple, Cherry and Walnut2. Do not measure anything3. Glue up blanks dictated solely on the stock on hand4. Plane until flat5. Formulate plan6. Find the glue, blue tape, dozuki saw and F-clamps7. Do 2-3 glue-ups per day for 3 weeks or so with a ton of sanding between each one – noting that plan was abandoned after glue-up #28. Empty dust bin9. A bit of router table work10. TONS of sanding11. Apply mineral oil and little feet12. Realization that you will starve to death if you are planning on making a living doing things this waySo that's it – those little accent strips (9 bands of them) are also end grain, so that takes some time…..did I mention this was a LOT of glue-ups? I'm quite sure this is my new record for a single board.Note – Pic 5 is the blanks less the thin strips and Pic 6 is before the oil.Thanks for looking…......
I used walnut, cherry and mahogany. I used a picture of a Gibson guitar of the '50's. I used a satin lacquer on it. It took some time in the hand sanding. I hope you enjoy looking as much as I did building it.
Its coming together…....SLOWLY. After ALL the shows I did last summer I finally got another order to custom built a Rustic cabinet for a store. They wanted something to hold a vessel sink, a old cream can full of water, space for paper towels and a spot for garbage. The store space they are in has no running water at the front of store.(This is where they want this) the store sells natural soaps. They bought couple of items from me in summer to display the soaps. The “OLD WOOD” theme is throughout the store. I am excited to get this into place. It should be MORE advertising for the items I make ! I initially sketched 2 opening doors in front. When they looked at it she asked “Could you make barn doors?” OF COURSE I can ! Enjoy
This is for all my Canadian friends here in the park and on Lumberjocks. I have been saving the bottle caps from Molson Canadian for just a project like this. I turned a piece of mesquite with a sunken area in the front and bored 7 holes for the bottle caps and epoxied them in place. Then I poured clear resin in the sunken area just to let it overflow the top. I had a mortise in the back so I could clean it up on the lathe after the pour. I finished the sides and back with Danish oil and clear lacquer.It is about 7/8” thick and 6” diameter!Cheers, Jim
Boys and Girls,The jury is still out as to which group I belong to more shekels than I confess to the taxman or less brains than I brag to my kids about.Last September (2018) I was at the very disappointing Timber and Working with Wood Show in Melbourne and out of sheer frustration from the presenters and content, I purchased this H & T front end vice, I won't post the link to the WEB site in case I lose a few readers through cardiacs due to the realisation of my sheer extravagance when confronted with the RRP.But where do I put it? I already had this H & T Gordon purchase, from a previous brain freeze countless years ago. I planned to put it at the end of my old mini-workbench which I built circa June 2016. Now this workbench has been a gem and has served me well so I was hesitant in making a new one, however, the old one was heavy as it was out of hardwood and the vice was steel. I planned to make the new one out of lighter pine and the vice is aluminium and why not add that shiny tail vice to complement this shiny front vice.Didn't Sketchup this one as I had the basic measurements and design from the first one (self flagellation will follow).Other than the vices, the major differences between the two was,
Use pine instead of hardwood to minimise weight.
Used my UKJ Parf jig for exact placement of the dog holes rather than manual matrix layout.
Used wood threaded 10mm stainless hex head bolts instead of coach bolts and nuts.
Used 6mm metal bolts with wood threads rather than screws for breakdown purposes… (done before my Domino purchase after they released their new breakdown hardware).
Provided for using Rockler Universal Fence Clamps rather than bulky C/F/G type clamps.
Down to the workshop and laminated 2 finger jointed pine planks (can't remember original dimensions) to give me an exact 40mm x 240mm x 1047.4mm tabletop. Exactly 1047.4mm you may ask and I reply… well, as I plan all my projects, that's the length I finally finished up with, so I'm insisting that that's what I actually designed. FYI, the bench stands 200mm high (and of course 1047.4mm on it's end).Glued some packers for the vices , marked the bolt positions and dragged it of to the drill press… figuratively speaking of course as being made of pine it didn't have to be physically dragged.I clamped the workbench to to the drill press's top, but as the press's spindle couldn't be move, I found it a tad easier to add an extension plank, for ease of allignment, Drilled 6 guiding pilot holes. Confirmed hole position and marked the bolt length/depth, Drilled out the pilot holes with a 7.5mm drill bit to tap for 10mm bolts at a later time.Hogged out the recess for the tail vice and then added a packer as the vice was thicker than the tabletop,
Usied SketchUp (can't stay away from it) to design and laser cut a cover plate for the tail vice,Using the UKJ Parf jig's rulers, I marked out the dogholes and drilled the required 3mm pilot holes, Then followed the instructions (ugh reading) and bored the 20mm holes using the 3mm pilot holes, the jig and a 20mm TCT forstner bit, Made the legs and glued and bolted the support base (bolted to get better strength with 6mm x 70mm bolts using the wood threader), The cylinder barrel of this vice made it easier to cut out the leg recess than the awkward shape for a “standard” vice. Tried using the method of cutting with the kerf on the edge to provide dust extraction relief and when I realised the hole had to be centered, I made another leg and used the relief hole principle.Drilled some 8.5mm holes into the legs to permit using Rockler Universal Fence Clamps for securing the mini-bench to a supporting surface,
(DOH! I had spare pictures)...Drilled and tapped 6 holes to accept 10mm bolts. Ratcheted in the bolts and tested squareness and operation. I then soaked the bolt holes with tung oil and when it came to the final bolt insertion, I had to use a pneumatic gun to seat the bolts as the buggers were fighting back against a manual wrench. Fitted the tail vice with the cover plate, The tail vice comes with a profiled brass dog,
with the following four faces,
Slightly concave face for rough surfaces.
Slightly convex face for contoured surfaces.
The fourth face is reserved for thrillseekers that want to shape their own unique face,
One of the features of this tail vice is it's movement. It comes with a small textured knob at the end which exerts incredible pressure with the minimum amount of force. Just two finger tightening will mar the wood if you insist on using brute force on the work to prevent any form of movement. Couple of pickies of it in use, Now the main vice (called main to avoid confusing this tail vice with the tail vice… I think I may have called it a front vice but I'd have to read to find, confirm and correct it) does not come with an onboard dog like most vices, to permit clamping against dog(s) on the table top, Being too gutless to drill holes into my shiny new (and expensive) vice I hit SketchUp seeking a solution. It didn'r say much, but eventually I finished up designing a cover box and laser cut it after allowing for profiles to fit the curves of the vice, I provided a pseudo-dog on top of the box to press against the work DOH! The top of the box (out of 6mm MDF) naturally sat 6mm above the vice top (approx. 5mm above tabletop as the top of the vice is about 1mm below tabletop) so this extension was unnecessary, It shall stay there until it really pisses me off and then there'll be a circumcision (snip).There have been times when I need to clamp non-parallel bits of timber, For which I have made up this beveled jaw backing which pivots on a dowel, that fits into a same diameter groove down the main tabletop jaw, For wider timber, I simply use the box with just one round dog in the middle of the tabletop for the brace. No picture provided as the non-parallel stunt timber refused to put on weight for just one photo shoot.These Rockler Auto-Lock T-Track Hold Down Clamp have been customised to permit static fitting to the tabletop, and can accommodate various thicknesses of timber without adjustment, I also use these quick adjustment clamps to wedge long pieces of timber without the need for bulky clamps, The bench also provides a resting place for a spare Ryobi battery, for those times I'm too lazy to walk 2 meters to get another spare.If you look closely, here is the resting place of the old mini workbench. Now, as always… most of the time… only when I do it… for all of you that also hate reading grab some popcorn, put in the ear plugs and don the sleep mask before you try to connect to this video I made so you don't have to read the above.PS. If you found the read boring and the video tiresome, save wasting your time on the above and check out this animation of this mini workbench in SketchUp.
After moving into our first house together my wife and I decided to ditch our old 1938 built oak table (broken down and reused). I surprised her back in July with the legs built and a much simpler table top than the pictures shown. She was over the moon and loved it so much but I felt I needed to go the extra mile on it. I'll probably still do something else with the legs since they're very simple but the time came around and I had enough time and oak to make the top. The center boards are all oak 4/4 and the edges are 8/4. I played with the placement and how wide it should be for our small house and decided to route into the edges to fit the legs which are Doug fir dimensional lumber painted white with bahr enamel to make it easy to keep white. All strips were jointed with a plate joiner to easily align.
A trifecta of guitar picks made from native New Zealand wood. Left to right is rimu, puriri, and black maire. I just felt like making something small but aesthetically pleasing. And it's something that generally comes in plastic that can instead be made from the smallest piece of 'scrap' wood. Finished them with some Danish oil and CA.
This is a project that I have had in mind to make for a long time, but finally had the time and resources. It is a spiral segmented rolling pin made from Western Big Leaf Maple, Honduras Mahogany, Walnut wood, and a poplar dowel. It contains 269 pieces of wood, making it a challenging, yet fun project to do. I wouldn't call it a traditional or a french style rolling pin, but rather a “crossover.” It has characteristics of both; it is a little bigger in diameter than a french, but smaller than a traditional. It has the feel of a french, but at the same time a little more heft like a traditional. It has two inch long maple caps on each ends so you can't see the dowel. This rolling pin is around 21” long from end to end.For those of you who make segmented pens, this is basically like a “big pen.” When making spiral segmented pens, you rotate the segments around the pen tube. In this case, I spiraled the segments around the poplar dowel.Step 1: Make the blank https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/pmmw8eb.jpg!End view of blank: Step 2: Spiral the blank on a dowel. This picture is just prior to turning: Thank you all for viewing! Any comments or questions are welcome! -Dale M.
I made a few more items for our upcoming craft sale in the park. The first one is a mesquite dual axiis turned banana bowl and it is finished with Danish oil and clear lacquer.The second item is a cutting board made with mesquite and pecan wood and finished with just danish oil.The third item is a fractal burned piece of maple plywood finished with clear lacquer.Cheers, Jim
This was another serving tray includes blind dovetails. The wood is aspen and walnut. I had some issues with creating handles so decided to go with some black metal handles which is a different feature from prior serving trays that I put together. Also something went wrong during my final assembly with the blind dovetails so the tray did not set level. I ended up adding some little walnut feet that allowed me to level things out (final picture is the bottom side showing the “feet”). Finished with General Finishes High Performance.
Have been spending quite abit of time getting this project up and running. I first featured the sanding unit attached to the wood lathe some time ago. I have found this sanding unit my most used sanding station. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/377625 and You tube demonstration https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QD1LZKvDLcAfter the prototype I made another one to document the construction of the sanding unit. This sanding unit is SUPER EASY TO BUILD, the tracking is SUPER EASY, and it is SUPER NICE to use, so I have named it my SUPER BELT SANDER. I finally got all the footage edited and made into two videos and uploaded them yesterday. They are:Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i423gw6NHoQ&t=11s Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uggb_9YtERc&t=1sI also worked on mounting the second one in its own cabinet and motor. This is completely explained and assembled in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsyN0U6yhXo&t=5sI will include in this post pictures of the cabinet as I assembled it. Very simple to build, compact and works well. This unit was designed as I went along, solving problems as need arised. I am happy with the result.Motor mounted on a plank with switchPulley side attachedBelt tightening mechanismPut together dust collection boxScrew sanding unit to the top of the backUse four screws to attach the front. This can be taken on and off to change the sanding belt.Do not forget and belt guard, and then make some dust hoods,Whether you power this sanding unit with your lathe or its own motor, you will find it one of your most used machines. What makes the sanding unit so easy to make is because of the sanding belt tightening and tracking method. The front roller has the bearings mounted in the roller. No complicated tightening and tracking mechanism. Slower speeds make it quiet and easy to use.Thanks for looking and comments appreciated.Need to start another project when it warms up, have had a few days down to Minus 30 Centigrade, and the shop is not warming up enough to get my blood flowing. At least I got the computer work done in the house.
Please excuse the dust inside the box! So this is my first take at a tea box, I made it for my husband. The box is maple, lid and legs are canary wood and the splines, bottom and handle are jatoba. The dividers are maple and cherry and I mortised the maple pieces into the box for stability. I have done this type of leg in the past but hadn't done a lid in this manner so I wanted to see if I could pre-finish all the interior pieces, glue it all together and use a flush trim bit to flush up the exterior of the lid. Also wanted some more practice at hand mortising hinges (these are the cheaper Rockler stop-hinges which I think are really good for the price) I drilled for the hinges just a tad off this time. I used a wipe-on poly but if I ever do this type of leg again, I will definitely either just oil or spray. Overall, I'm fairly happy with it and my husband loves it so all is good :)Thanks for looking!
I hadn't tried an upright bandsaw box yet so figured I'd give it a try. This was supposed to be a christmas gift but obviously, as I just finished it, is very, very late. This gift is for a friend who's makeup and nails and hair are always done perfectly so I actually bought some fancy iridescent enamel nail polish to use for the dog print inlays. I haven't opened a bottle of nail polish in well over 20 years lol. I carved the paw prints with my dremel after penciling them on to the box lid. It's all mahogany, 7×4x3, and finished with 7 or 8 or maybe more coats wipe on semi-gloss poly. It was a fun project so I think I'd like to make more to use up that nail polish!Thanks for looking!
I made this box to hold a set of double nine dominoes. The wood used is Tigerwood and Peruvian Walnut. As usual, there are flaws that I feel like I should have been able to avoid, but overall I'm reasonably happy with it. I think the woods work well together. Inside dimensions are 7-1/8” x 4-1/8” x 1-3/4”. Finished with Danish oil and paste wax.
I recently built a Bailey Chair for dogs suffering from Megaesophagus.Dogs with megaesophagus have an enlarged esophagus. This makes swallowing food difficult. Eating while in an upright position helps and the task of keeping the dog vertical is easier when the dog is sitting in a Bailey chair.Adam, over at Lazy Guy DIY, has put together a great tutorial on how to build the Bailey Dog Chair. I followed his instructions with very few modifications.I made a companion blog post about my build. You can read it here. Thanks for checking out my project!
With inspiration from kocgolf and PlanBWoodworks and the many other moxon builds on LJ I have completed a moxon vise, although it may get modified with use.Features I used from their projects: 1. included table area behind chops with dog holes – useful on my bench with no dog holes (because top is replaceable hardboard)
2. Inexpensive screws from the Walmart Gold's Gym Dumbbell Handle with Spinlock Collars, 14” Standard ($14 for a pair)
3. Ears on inside chop to use for clamping to bench
4. Making outside chop slightly taller than inside to help align the vise with edge of bench These features were my adaptations (time will tell if they are actually helpful): 1. Used 2 screws with washers and hole on adjacent support rail to fix rear nut. This will allow removal if needed.
2. Sloted attachments for rear top attaching to support rails to allow for top wood expansion due to cross grain between rails and top.
3. Drilled 2 holes between outside nuts (handles) and threaded bar. Drove cut off nails into holes and expoxed this assembly together. Turning nut/handle now turns threaded bar into vise eliminating situations where threaded bar would stick out. Down side – this makes changing opening between chops slower. May make larger handles in future.
4. Attached front of top and rails to inside chop with recessed screws. This will allow removing top for replacement or mounting to a bench in future.
5. After reading kocgolf's reports of sagging when front chop opened wide I added extending blocks behind inside chop and found that a forstner bit used for recessing quarters was just the right amount smaller than a 1” bit (with a little sanding on oscillating sander) to fit the threaded bars just right. Also helped to wax inside of holes. There is little sagging even when extended as far as possible (giving 8” between chops)
6. Used some scrap plastic wood to make washers (white you see between handle and front chop. Note: one end of one of the threaded bars had a thicker coating than the other. So I had to sand it some.This was an low cost project. In addition to the dumbbell handles I bought $12 worth of hard maple. For dogs I got a set of 4 Kreg blue plastic ones on Amazon for under $9. The support rails and top are made from pine recycled from an old bench top 2X10s which cleaned up nicely. Chops are made from hard maple. My guess is this monster weighs in at over 50 pounds.Size: 20” wide by 23” deep, 12” between dog holes and 13” between the threaded bars. dog holes are spaced 5 3/8” apart front to back
This was a quick headboard, made mostly from left overs from other projects. The posts have dados down the center that the bead boarding slots into and the front and back rails have mating rabbets that form a dado in the top and bottom for the beadboarding to ride in. The rails are mortised into the posts. The top plate is glued to the top rail and has lag screws that connect it to the posts. The lag screws sit in a counter bore that was later plugged and sanded flush to hide the fastners. After a good sanding it recieved two coats of rattle can flat white to prime it. Then another round of sanding followed by two coats of the finish color “french cream” (off white).
Trying to get my shop organized. Local place makes corn hole boards and sells the scraps (1' by 4' or 5') for a couple bucks each. Used my Kreg jig for the joinery.I see that I need to buy more clamps since I have the room for more.The only clamps on the rack are 3 longer bar clamps and my 2 pipe clamps since those are not used as much.
This is an AlexFoxUa pattern from Etsy. My first paid pattern. Really enjoyed the quality of the pattern. Congrats Alex on your mention and pic in the spring edition of Scroll saw magazine. You deserve it. I enjoy the realisticpatterns you offer everyone.The frame on mineis Mahogany. Finished with 1 coat of tung oil and 3 coats of deft rattle can lacquer. Splines were 1/4” scrap of Baltic birch.The cut was 1/4” Baltic Birch finished with 2 coats of clear shellac/denatured alcohol mix then 2 coats of deft rattle can lacquer.Backer board was 1/8” Baltic Birch. Started out flat….didn't like it then went satin black.Blades used were Flying Dutchman 2/0 Spiral 35 TPI for around the mouth and the rest was Olsen Skip Tooth 2/0 28 tooth per inch.This is a gift for my sister who rescues and preps cats for adoption.
I cut a bunch of scrap to size, placed all of the pieces into a box, mixed it up, and started drawing them out one at a time. I used every species I had: Sycamore, Poplar, Padauk, Purpleheart, Rose Marado, Red Palm, Walnut, Cherry, Butternut, Maple, Yellowheart, Larch, White Oak, Wenge, Eucalyptus, Sepele, and Birch. Frame is Cedar.
I made these thirteen cribbage boards and the trophy for our 22 annual Super Bowl Cribbage Tournament. Players got to pick a board in the order they finished.We had a great time. Everybody loved the cribbage boards and we finished in time to get home for the start of the game.
I made this side chair to go with the Desk on Frame project I posted earlier. This is yet another Lonnie Bird School project. I know many people on this form are self taught, And believe me, you have my great admiration. But I have loved learning under the watchful eye of a master craftsman, period furniture maker.The chair was a real challenge and was almost complete when I left the one wek class. I plan to make another one this summer.
At just under 170 sq. ft. I'm probably in competition for one of the smallest shops on this board…. being organized, and focusing on a creative floor plan is key to me. I actually have two (2) HF workbenches…. I've mounted each on locking casters to raise their heights a little (I'm 6'1”).... one one bench I've installed T-Track,,, but the one pictured has been my focus today as I've added a shelf… very close to the bottom of the legs, to store lumber. I'd also removed and re-worked the existing shelf, making it into a sliding platform for my new Cutech 8” jointer. The top of it sits at 24” inched from the floor, but considering it's not used daily, it's either make allowances or simply don't have a tool like this is my shop. Bending over for a few minutes every now & then is no big deal compared to the flexibility of having a jointer in the shop ! Anyway…. with all due respect… my two positionable HF workbenches do a great job for me… and I'm not a HF fan, I'm generally not overly fond of their products… but I do love the workbenches… and I'm not even through customizing them yet !
Another “Work of Heart” benefitting the Memphis Child Advocacy Center.This one is made of silver maple. The base is Osage Orange and is just heavy enough to support this. I tried to make this feel very thin and in many spots it is super thin, in the 1/32” range.I always start with an angle grinder and totally get covered in wood chips. This year, I decided to be more fluid and not a leaf to see how this one sells. This goes into a silent auction and all proceeds goes to the charity.I'd love to get your opinions on this one. The size is 34×20 x 6 inches.
Due to some long needed re-organoization of the instrument repair section at work, I finally got my very own dedicated space. No more sharing with the boss! So I put up a tool board, acquired a nice LED light and decided I needed some nice storage drawers on the worktop. No more bending down to access my plastic drawer/bins!I used some wood that was previously the frame of our futon. The measurements fit my purpose and they were pre-stained! The drawers are basically easily removed boxes so that I can put them to the side for easy access. Several are dedicated by task, bridge tools, pencils, finish touchup, etc.The wood is pine and the finish is oak stain with an overcoat of boiled linseed oil. Each drawer measures about 11×5 inches. I'm very happy with the result.
This Valentine's Day, put your woodworking skills to use and give a handmade gift! Creating your own gifts makes them unique and are always appreciated by those receiving them. Here at WWGOA, we have tons of project ideas, but we've compiled 7 of our best projects perfect for Valentine's gifts. These projects are easy and quick to make, so you can make them in a pinch. Read below to get some homemade gift ideas!The post 7 Small Woodworking Projects Perfect for Valentine's Day Gifts appeared first on WoodWorkers Guild of America.
So I went down somewhat of a pen rabbit hole and delayed finishing my workbench after watching Gabe Castro make several amazing pens on YouTube. These are my first attempts at segmented blanks, but I am happy with the results even if they are cut freehand. The first is Ebony with blue steel acrylic and a Georgia Coffee can cut into strips. The second is Spalted Maple. Both are finished up to 2000gr then with Mylands Micropolish and finally sealed with Versawax. Thanks for looking and Thank you to Mr. Castro for his how to videos.
Hello every one. I have not posted projects for a while as have been very busy making them. A fellow who gives wine, champagne and liquor for gifts ask me to make eight whiskey gift boxes as shown in the thumbnail pic. After giving them for Christmas gifts he ask for fifteen more to last for next year. Just finished them and will show some in the next pic. He wanted them made from several different wood species which I did. The handles are made from other species and steam bent from usually three layers. This was a very time consuming project but came out with very good results. One more pic with some of the bottles shown in the boxes. Could not get them all into one pic. Thanks for looking and comments always welcome. PM with size questions and tricks.